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Max mileage from a chain?

Old 10-28-20, 06:35 AM
  #26  
joesch
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Originally Posted by rbrides
What I really like about Bike Forums is getting input from the practical, real-world experiences of everyone here.

How many miles to you put on a chain?

I just read an article in Bicycling Mag that said replace the chain “At least every 2,500 miles.”

I frequently clean my bike, use a Park Tools chain scrubber and re-lube. I do so nearly every time after a gravel ride. Every other time after a road ride.

I have only 1 bike; a "gravel" bike that I ride road and gravel, but with different wheel sets/cassettes.

I use a PT chain checker to determine if i need a new one; not mileage. 2500 miles on my Shimano chain shows no stretching.

What do you folks do?
Everyone assumed you were asking about a road chain setup, ie 3/32, not track, 1/8.
Also rbrides did ask based on his "gravel" bike.

Im curious how much extra mileage a SS/FG bike expectations and usage experiences are ??

Last edited by joesch; 10-28-20 at 06:40 AM.
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Old 10-28-20, 07:50 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I don’t know what you are doing but I can’t recall ever replaced a chainwheel due to chain wear. Even if you went an extra 1/16” of an inch over, you shouldn’t have to replace chainring. I’d agree that you might end up having to replace the cassette but not the chainring.

I get 3000 to 3500 miles per chain and 3 to 4 chains to each cassette.
pretty much mirrors my experience as well, although being a light rider I get a bit more mileage before the 1/16 wear that i measure for, and like you, 3 or 4 chains before cassette issues.
Never really had chainring wear issues.

it's important for someone like the op to get proper information about wearing other parts much more than needed if you allow chain wear to go past a certain point. A waste of money.
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Old 10-28-20, 08:06 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Lemond1985
Being the lazy sort, I just wait until the chain starts slipping and skipping before I replace anything. I have so many bikes that I'm constantly switching parts on, that it would be very impractical to keep mileage figures. And besides, isn't the point of replacing a chain so it won't jump out of gear? Why not wait until it actually starts to have problems?
if you wait until a chain starts jumping out of gear, the chain will have worn so much that you will not only have ruined the cassette,, guaranteeing a cassette change, but you will have increased wear on the chainrings as well as the jockey wheels, and having a sloppy drivetrain in general due to wear.
It's all about economics, replacing a chain before a certain amount of wear means less wear on other parts, which will be more expensive than replacing a chain and going 3 or 4 chains on one cassette, not to mention more expensive chainrings.

and then there is the practical side, if you have to change your chain and can't source a cassette, you can't just change the chain.
Coming from a touring background, this is a real factor.
Plus it just makes sense to take care of ones bike in reducing the wear overall on a bike by replacing parts in a timely manner

I hope this helps the OP getting informed reasons on the advantages of keeping track of chain wear.
The 1/16 wear over 12 inches is a typical wear point to keep track of, and like others here, has shown to be a good reference---but how much mileage to get to that wear totally depends on the rider, conditions and mostly how you keep your drivetrain clean.
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Old 10-28-20, 09:02 AM
  #29  
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MTB in dusty and sometimes muddy conditions, I get ~1,000 miles if I'm lucky, usually less. With the road bike on segregated bike paths primarily, and low/moderate power, typically 3,000 miles. Though mixing gravel in consistently will reduce the number of miles a lot. But when it's a BIG POWER season, more like 2,000 miles per chain. A big power, long distance, low gravel year on the road bike (7-8,500 miles) went through 4 chains and 4 rear tires. Chain and rear tire mileage seemed to sync up that year.

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Old 10-28-20, 09:24 AM
  #30  
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I ride road and gravel with the same bike, chain and front rings. I have a wheel/tire/disc/cassette group for gravel and another for road. So total mileage for the chain includes road and gravel riding.
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Old 10-28-20, 09:52 AM
  #31  
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I keep several chains and switch them out maybe every 500 miles or so. I use two bikes and ride about 2K miles a year, so three chains per bike is plenty. I clean and wax chains with melted paraffin in a batch process at the end of riding season so they're ready for next year. If any fail with chain stretch tester, I order a replacement. If chains squeak before 500 miles, I paint on paraffin in kerosene with a brush and its good for at least a hundred miles. Too much trouble to chart mileage, but I'd guess 2-3 thousand miles average.
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Old 10-28-20, 12:09 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by rbrides
What I really like about Bike Forums is getting input from the practical, real-world experiences of everyone here.

How many miles to you put on a chain?

I just read an article in Bicycling Mag that said replace the chain “At least every 2,500 miles.”

I frequently clean my bike, use a Park Tools chain scrubber and re-lube. I do so nearly every time after a gravel ride. Every other time after a road ride.

I have only 1 bike; a "gravel" bike that I ride road and gravel, but with different wheel sets/cassettes.

I use a PT chain checker to determine if i need a new one; not mileage. 2500 miles on my Shimano chain shows no stretching.

What do you folks do?
I recently started using wax, so I’m in new territory re chain longevity. However, previously I would buy three chains and a new cassette, then run the set for 12-14k, rotating the chains every ~500 mi. Then replace the whole lot every ~2 years for ~$120. I treat cassettes as wear items, so I only use low-end (Veloce) all-steel cassettes, which are ~$44 each. I evaluate chainring wear at each cassette replacement - I usually replace the rings every two cassettes. I generally use TA rings, which are cheaper than Campag but decent. A couple of times, however, I’ve simply bought a complete NOS crankset for less than a pair of new rings, and ebayed one set of crank arms
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Old 10-28-20, 07:53 PM
  #33  
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after the chain is stretched to a max self gauged limit, I might pull the link closest to the QL & run it for a few more miles. By then I'll have a new cassette, crank, BB, chain, & rear der to swap over.
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Old 11-02-20, 01:17 PM
  #34  
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I seem to be getting fewer miles on my chains than most: 1500-2000 miles. I confess to not being very diligent about cleaning my drivetrain, so maybe the lesson from my experience is: if you're lax about cleaning your drivetrain, don't expect your chain to last very long.
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Old 11-02-20, 01:24 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by andrewclaus
My wife gets twice as many miles out of a chain as I do, up to 10,000 miles. She mainly rides in fair weather, in lower gear, lower torque. So, as with all things, the answer is "It depends."
Glad to see this post. Everyone here is telling me to replace my chain at 3,000 or 3,500 miles. I've got 4,200 miles and KMC digital tool shows .02mm of wear. I thought, No Way! I only ride in dry conditions, not much torque either. I'm not replacing this chain just because of the mileage on it.
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Old 11-02-20, 01:40 PM
  #36  
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Your chain's longevity is totally dependent on your riding environment and your chain cleaning techniques

Absolute Black Lube gives hundreds and hundreds no-wear to chain (and more expensive components)
Or wax with either Mspeed or Silca

​The best source for valid wear and tear on your components, including ultimate costs and power saving:
https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/
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Old 11-02-20, 01:41 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Iride01
I don't have any set time or mileage to check or replace. When I feel so motivated, I check mine with the typical chain checker from Park Tool, but at times I also will measure with a metal scale. If either shows more than .5% or a 1/16th longer than 12 inches, I start mulling over changing it.

I'm not much for preventative maintenance anymore. I think it cost more money in the long run when you get too finicky about things. Sure, if my bike was soaring regularly at altitudes above the ground higher than I'd want to fall, I'd be all up in the preventative maintenance thing.

So if I happen to go too long with my chain and the cogs and chainrings get worn to badly, I can replace them too for not much money. Probably less than number of chains I would have had to replace early to save them from extra wear.

But that is not to say you shouldn't replace early or on some time schedule. It's up to you and your circumstances. Also depends a lot on whether your mindset is someone that like to tinker and fiddle with mechanical things to perfection. I used to have that mindset, but lost that as I got older. It's more enjoyable to ride than it is to prepare everything to ride.

As far as mileage on chains, I would have sworn I was getting 8000 miles out of a chain. But those were all on bikes less than 9 speeds with a 14 tooth cog the smallest. My 11 speed chain is ready for replacement now with just 4500 - 5000 miles on it.
I have always wondered why more people don't think like you. I never understand the bike-shop argument to replace a $40 chain (plus labor) more frequently, in order to avoid possible harm to a $40 cassette (easy replacement, no labor cost). If the math does not support frequent maintenance to avoid repair costs and you don't have some other compelling reason to do it why bother? Logic dictates that this argument should win but somehow I feel like a bad person if I fail to maintain my stuff.
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Old 11-02-20, 01:44 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by joesch
Everyone assumed you were asking about a road chain setup, ie 3/32, not track, 1/8.
Also rbrides did ask based on his "gravel" bike.

Im curious how much extra mileage a SS/FG bike expectations and usage experiences are ??
IME they don't last as long as multispeed chains shorter pins have always led to longer wear
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Old 11-02-20, 02:25 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by beaglepgh
I have always wondered why more people don't think like you. I never understand the bike-shop argument to replace a $40 chain (plus labor) more frequently, in order to avoid possible harm to a $40 cassette (easy replacement, no labor cost). If the math does not support frequent maintenance to avoid repair costs and you don't have some other compelling reason to do it why bother? Logic dictates that this argument should win but somehow I feel like a bad person if I fail to maintain my stuff.
You fail to take a few things into consideration:
Chainring life , do some searches for your chainring replacement costs
Possible inconveniences when touring (when you can't just change chain cuz cassette is too worn and maybe hard to find your specific cassette
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Old 11-02-20, 02:29 PM
  #40  
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A few years ago a co-worker complained to me about his new bike chain not lasting long and having to take it into the shop for replacement. I asked him...how often do you lube the chain? His reply...."but it came with lube when I bought the bike".
It amazes me how many bikes I come across with squeaky grinding chains. Full kit and bling but no time for lube.
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Old 11-02-20, 02:31 PM
  #41  
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I have a chain gauge. They are REALLY cheap. And I replace when it starts to show wear .... .75%. That happens at about 2,000 miles. If you clean your chain and drive train after every ride, you can probably get more miles. If you ride with a worn chain, it will eat up your cassette which costs more $$$$ than a chain. A cassette will last me quite a LONG time like well over 10K.
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Old 11-02-20, 04:18 PM
  #42  
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I've mentioned my early chain and cassette failure here before, and was surprised by the mileage guys got out of their chains. A little over a year ago I retired and got a bike. I ride 80 to 90% crushed limestone trails, with the other 10 to 20% paved rail trails. I cleaned my chain often using a park tool, and then lubed afterward. When I had 700 miles on the bike I decided to check for chain wear. I was shocked to find out my chain was wore out based on measurement. So I bought a new chain, put it on, and the chain would slip on the two gears I used most. So I ended up replacing a worn out cassette also. The only thing I could figure that caused the early failure was from maybe cleaning and lubing to often, and the limestone dust would stick to the chain, and it made like a grinding paste. Since I have gone to running two different chains and waxing. After seeing how no dirt at all sticks to my chain. I think waxing is the way to go especially riding crushed limestone trails.
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Old 11-03-20, 03:08 AM
  #43  
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The answer for me is: it depends.
On my old Campy 9-speed chains I used to get 10,000 miles and still see no sign of wear. When I bought a new commuter bike it came with SRAM Force 11-speed groupset but the cheapskate builders used bottom of the range PC 1110 chain and cassette. I was really shocked when it was stretched after 2,000 miles. I replaced it with PC-1170 chain and cassette, which matches the Force groupset, and have put a further 4,500 miles on with no sign of wear. So there are a lot of variables involved. I suspect that the fact that I rode the 11-speed in all weathers, much more so than the old Campy one, contributed to the fast wear but then the same was true with the replacement chain.
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Old 11-03-20, 07:41 AM
  #44  
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How long is a piece of chain?

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Old 11-03-20, 08:07 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by jgwilliams
The answer for me is: it depends.
On my old Campy 9-speed chains I used to get 10,000 miles and still see no sign of wear. When I bought a new commuter bike it came with SRAM Force 11-speed groupset but the cheapskate builders used bottom of the range PC 1110 chain and cassette. I was really shocked when it was stretched after 2,000 miles. I replaced it with PC-1170 chain and cassette, which matches the Force groupset, and have put a further 4,500 miles on with no sign of wear. So there are a lot of variables involved. I suspect that the fact that I rode the 11-speed in all weathers, much more so than the old Campy one, contributed to the fast wear but then the same was true with the replacement chain.
what is your method of measuring wear, and what is your point of reference for when to change a chain?
For a long time, I've used the simple method of measuring a chain at a few places to see if it gets to the 1/16th of an inch over 12 inches, easily done . Generally don't want it to be past this point of wear so not to cause unneeded wear on my chainrings and cassette.
On average go about 5, 6000kms per chain. 3-4000 miles (ish) for you Imperialists.
That amount has been pretty consistent over the decades.
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Old 11-04-20, 03:21 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by djb
what is your method of measuring wear, and what is your point of reference for when to change a chain?
For a long time, I've used the simple method of measuring a chain at a few places to see if it gets to the 1/16th of an inch over 12 inches, easily done . Generally don't want it to be past this point of wear so not to cause unneeded wear on my chainrings and cassette.
On average go about 5, 6000kms per chain. 3-4000 miles (ish) for you Imperialists.
That amount has been pretty consistent over the decades.
I have a chain gauge. I've actually not had it that long so was a bit surprised on testing some of my old bikes that there was no measurable wear on some very high mileage chains. I was equally surprised on testing the PC 1110 chain to find it was well stretched. It's a simple two-sided gauge with .75 and 1.0 (mm I presume) markings. I would change a chain once it got over the .75 marking.

The only other bike which goes through chains that fast is my Brompton which got ridden in all the worst conditions and was thoroughly neglected. That's gone through 2 chains in 5,000 miles.
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Old 11-04-20, 08:27 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by jgwilliams
I have a chain gauge. I've actually not had it that long so was a bit surprised on testing some of my old bikes that there was no measurable wear on some very high mileage chains. I was equally surprised on testing the PC 1110 chain to find it was well stretched. It's a simple two-sided gauge with .75 and 1.0 (mm I presume) markings. I would change a chain once it got over the .75 marking.

The only other bike which goes through chains that fast is my Brompton which got ridden in all the worst conditions and was thoroughly neglected. That's gone through 2 chains in 5,000 miles.
interesting. The one thing that tends to be said for chain gauges is that they can prematurely show that a chain needs to be changed (as opposed to doing the measuring technique, which doesnt take into account roller wear)--so this must mean that you really really are good at keeping your drivetrain clean and are super good on your chain, because 10,000miles is 16,000 kms, thats a hell of a lot of use.
Assuming your gauge is working properly (and kinda supported by your Brompton example) I guess you are really easy on chains--probably as you say, clean riding conditions, maybe not a lot of climbing, and maybe not being a grinder at slow cadences and lots of torque?

Have you ever done the measure thing? It is tricky as it does depend on being careful of ruler/measuring tape holding in place and not moving it.

the main thing to take from your experiences (for the person asking the oringinal question) is that a gunky drivetrain like your Brompton example just doesnt last as long as a clean one, and your personal experience with both is a really good "same rider" example to illustrate this.
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Old 11-04-20, 08:30 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by djb
Have you ever done the measure thing? It is tricky as it does depend on being careful of ruler/measuring tape holding in place and not moving it.
No. Being 63 my eyes are not what they were and I find that sort of measurement quite tricky.
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Old 11-04-20, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by jgwilliams
I have a chain gauge. I've actually not had it that long so was a bit surprised on testing some of my old bikes that there was no measurable wear on some very high mileage chains. I was equally surprised on testing the PC 1110 chain to find it was well stretched. It's a simple two-sided gauge with .75 and 1.0 (mm I presume) markings. I would change a chain once it got over the .75 marking.

The only other bike which goes through chains that fast is my Brompton which got ridden in all the worst conditions and was thoroughly neglected. That's gone through 2 chains in 5,000 miles.
Nope, not millimeters. It’s % elongation. For the Park CC-3.2 chain checker, Park says

...indicate when a chain reaches .5% and .75% "stretch," the points at which most chain manufacturers suggest replacement. For 9 and 10-speed chains, replace chain just as the gauge fits the 0.75% side fits flat into the chain. For 11 and 12-speed chain, replace as the 0.5% side fits.
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Old 11-04-20, 09:49 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by jgwilliams
No. Being 63 my eyes are not what they were and I find that sort of measurement quite tricky.
not that much behind you, but yes, I do it with good light and clean reading glasses, and must be accurate in how you hold the measuring doohickey up against a given point (middle of pin, or edge of pin or whatever is easiest and most consistent to hold in place) to reasonably relate the wear compared to the corresponding point 12 inches away.

and while they say one should put some load on pedal to show up any additional "pull" on chain, I only have two hands so its not realistically easy to do so. Have rarely done so.
I just try to keep track of how close its getting to the 1/16 point, and check it every so often depending on how much a given bike is ridden and how close its getting to this point.
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