the sci guy 

So I wasn’t expecting any issues here but I’m worried that the left crank arm on my 5800 105 set isn’t on the spindle enough.
The bike has 68mm BB shell, I fit in a Shimano BBR60 bracket, and when I slide the spindle through and put the left arm on, it’s only on about half-ish way. This seems not good to me.

Yes the drive side is in as far as it can go - I used a mallet to lightly tap it in as far as I could.

Everything I read said the BBR60 and FC-5800 were compatible…

Is this normal or am I screwed?

HillRider

There should be a plastic "bolt" that threads into the crank arm and is torqued lightly (say 10 inch-pounds) by hand that fills in that gap before the clamping bolts are tightened.

delbiker1 

What Hillrider said. It sets the torque before tightening clamping bolts.

SilverRubicon

Is that not a silver spacer that is between the crank and bottom bracket? I don't have the same 105 BB but my 105 crank extends through the BB a bit more.

soonerrebel

THIS!

Is that a silver spacer between the bottom bracket cup and crank arm??

Davet

I don’t recall Shimano calling for a spacer between the NDS crank arm and bottom bracket.

the sci guy 

Yes I've got that, I just didn't feel like it was the kind of bolt (being plastic and all) that was really responsible for making up for the remaining space where the arm isn't putting direct pressure onto the spindle.

That silver washer, "ring" as it's referred to in the Shimano instructions, came with the crankset and there is one that sits between the BB and the crankset parts on both sides. I'd gain some mm back if I took them out, but as far as I know they are both supposed to be there....?

the sci guy 

unless I'm interpreting the manual wrong?
https://dassets.shimano.com/content/...5000-3966A.pdf

Happy to take them out if it's OK for the crank to be right up against the BB

SilverRubicon

I saw that too. I don't have the same BB but I also don't have that ring with the same 105 series crank.

delbiker1 

https://dassets.shimano.com/content/...5000-3966A.pdf

I believe this is not the same crank set as the 5800.

MudPie

Does the item -4 (plate) shown in either of the above diagrams interface into the hole in the spindle. From your photos, it looks like it does, but want to verify.

the sci guy 

it's possible those "spacers" are left over from when a shop installed this crank on my 2016 specialized roubaix - and it required some funky wedge shapey adapters to work. when we took it off before I sold the bike I just grabbed everything that was with it. hmmm

the sci guy 

no that's just a safety pin kinda thing that clips down over the tension bolt.

Crankycrank

I believe that ring is a very thin and smaller ring that sits inside a groove (or maybe flush) on the crank. Pull the arm off and you should see a bare metal washer that comes off. Sometimes they can be removed easy and sometimes they need a little persuasion. Never seen a thick spacer like you have mounted for Shimano BB's. Kinda looks like you also have the #4 "Plate" mounted backwards which, I think, but may be wrong, may not fit that way when the crank is fully on properly. The bolt hole should be on the BB side.

MudPie

I view that clip as a visual go/no-go gauge. If the metal pin that protrudes from the clip fits into the hole in the spindle, then you're good to go. I the metal pin does not fit into the hole and clip is not flush with the crank arm, then something is wrong.

cxwrench

The silver spacer(s) should NOT be there. Remove it(them) and use the plastic screw to draw the crank arm on to the axle, then engage the safety plate and tighten the crank bolts.

the sci guy 

The more I think about it, the more likely I think this is happening:
So yes,
I will indeed do this.

Thanks everyone. So nice to have a sounding board. I tried googling it and google was like wtf are you even talking about?

Iride01 

Do you know what that little plate is between the pinch bolts on the crank arm? That's the stopper plate. It'll let you be able to tell when the arm is on far enough. However in the pic, it looks like you'd get a false positive. That arm needs to go way further.

This is the manual you should be using if the exploded diagram you linked and called a manual is correct for your crankset.

https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-01-ENG.pdf

the sci guy 

Thanks - yeah I removed the spacers are it went on much better, and the left arm slid way more onto the spindle, and everything looks 100% better. mm's matter!