GP5000 TR vs. Pro One TLE Addix, 30 vs. 28mm
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GP5000 TR vs. Pro One TLE Addix, 30 vs. 28mm
Hello, I want to install a new pair of all-rounder tires to a new set of Zipp 303 firecrest in a Specialized Roubaix 2021
- Continental CP 5000 TR, this is only avalaible at 30 mm at the moment
- Schwalbe Pro One TLR Addix, in 28 mm
By looking at some reviews Zipp 303 firecrest (25mm internal), adds like 3 mm
Am I going to find a noticeable difference between 30 vs 28 mm?
What tire do you guys think is better choice? I am not interested in other tires, only maybe the Eagle F1 as a third option.
- Continental CP 5000 TR, this is only avalaible at 30 mm at the moment
- Schwalbe Pro One TLR Addix, in 28 mm
By looking at some reviews Zipp 303 firecrest (25mm internal), adds like 3 mm
Am I going to find a noticeable difference between 30 vs 28 mm?
What tire do you guys think is better choice? I am not interested in other tires, only maybe the Eagle F1 as a third option.
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Schwalbe Pro One would be my pref when tubeless.
Would be my pref hands down for tubeless & tubed if the latest Schwalbe Pro One were offered in a 32 or 30.
Would be my pref hands down for tubeless & tubed if the latest Schwalbe Pro One were offered in a 32 or 30.
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how soon do you need new tires?
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The newer Contis run true to size and the Schwalbes run slightly large, so, they will be about the same width mounted.
I have not tested/ridden the new GP5000 S TR tires, they are coming any day. However, my preference is for Continental over Schwalbe due to past issues with Schwalbe tires. The Contis are a little faster. But, this is like comparing an S Class to a BMW 7 Series. Can't really go wrong with either choice.
I have not tested/ridden the new GP5000 S TR tires, they are coming any day. However, my preference is for Continental over Schwalbe due to past issues with Schwalbe tires. The Contis are a little faster. But, this is like comparing an S Class to a BMW 7 Series. Can't really go wrong with either choice.
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The new Contis are truly exceptional tires. The bicycle rolling resistance data on the larger sizes shows they have improved the great numbers on their previous tires (the 25 was not much better there but the 32 was). In general there is a reason why more serious cyclists run Contis than any other tire. They also mount up super easily compared to the previous TLs.
Re: 28 vs 30, there is not a lot of difference but personally I am a big fan of 30mm. I switched from 28 to 30 a few years ago and the comfort level is well worth the ultra-miniscule resistance and aero penalty for me a non-racer. I have thought about going to 32 and I might some day, but my new Contis I got 30s in.
Note that competitive cyclist had 28s in stock last I looked..
Re: 28 vs 30, there is not a lot of difference but personally I am a big fan of 30mm. I switched from 28 to 30 a few years ago and the comfort level is well worth the ultra-miniscule resistance and aero penalty for me a non-racer. I have thought about going to 32 and I might some day, but my new Contis I got 30s in.
Note that competitive cyclist had 28s in stock last I looked..
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I *know* that the Schwalbe are great tires and everything that's been written about the new Contis indicates that they're exceptional, too.
Normally, I'd just advise that they're consumables and there's no reason not to buy one, run 'em to the cords and then try the other. In this instance, I will say that none of the three Schwalbe POEA that I tried would stay bead-locked on my 303S when deflated. This made maintenance a little more fussy, and I ended up getting MilkIt valves to help (unfortunately, the MilkIts weren't completely issue-free and they added their own little niggles). I don't know if others have experienced the same thing with this particular combo, I don't know if I just had the bad luck of getting tires from a batch that was a little off, and I don't know if something like double-wrapping the rim tape would have solved the problem. They are really, really good tires, though, and I'd be willing to circle back and give them another whirl after I run through a few other options that I have yet to try.
Normally, I'd just advise that they're consumables and there's no reason not to buy one, run 'em to the cords and then try the other. In this instance, I will say that none of the three Schwalbe POEA that I tried would stay bead-locked on my 303S when deflated. This made maintenance a little more fussy, and I ended up getting MilkIt valves to help (unfortunately, the MilkIts weren't completely issue-free and they added their own little niggles). I don't know if others have experienced the same thing with this particular combo, I don't know if I just had the bad luck of getting tires from a batch that was a little off, and I don't know if something like double-wrapping the rim tape would have solved the problem. They are really, really good tires, though, and I'd be willing to circle back and give them another whirl after I run through a few other options that I have yet to try.
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Interesting. Hopefully someone else around here will chime in with their experiences. I have not heard this before. But if enough people chime in with the same experience it might be enough to sway me from buying them.
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Are you running 303S? I think that I did a brief search, but didn't find anything at the time. That was when the 303S were first released, though.
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I think the bead lock depends on the rim "shelf" shape and the tightness of the tire bead. My ORGINAL Pro Ones would fall away for the my older NOX rims in the 2015-2016 timeframe. Those were early days for both and they were 25 tires on a 20-21 IW rim, so 28-30 may have fared better. My current Easton ally rims lock IRCs way too aggressively. I will be getting 303 Firecrests (hooked) in a few months so will need to use tires that can actually be taken off easily on the side of the road in case I need to insert a tube. That may be an expensive trial-and-error phase. Interested in what people think about the diff tires.
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WhyFi No, I'm running Boyd 44mm rims.
I think the bead lock depends on the rim "shelf" shape and the tightness of the tire bead. My ORGINAL Pro Ones would fall away for the my older NOX rims in the 2015-2016 timeframe. Those were early days for both and they were 25 tires on a 20-21 IW rim, so 28-30 may have fared better. My current Easton ally rims lock IRCs way too aggressively. I will be getting 303 Firecrests (hooked) in a few months so will need to use tires that can actually be taken off easily on the side of the road in case I need to insert a tube. That may be an expensive trial-and-error phase. Interested in what people think about the diff tires.
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Good to know. That has always been a bit of concern. I like the IRCs (and have them) so will try them first, with the Contis and Schwalbes being next. I may have a couple of new original Pro Ones too actually...have to look.
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I don't think any of the leading TLE tires will disappoint. Between the Pro Ones, P Zeros or the GP5000s, can you really go wrong? If you're looking for the most comfort, you may as well go for the 30s. I'm happy on my 28s- seems to be the sweet spot between comfort and speed with the newer gen wider rims.
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I have hookless 303 S rims (narrower than the Firecrest) and agree, the Pro Ones won't stay bead locked when they are deflated but it hasn't been an issue for me. I remove the core, add sealant and then pump them up with a compressor and the bead re-seals. I'm running P Zero TRL SLs at the moment but haven't deflated them to see if they pop off the bead.
I don't have a compressor and I like to check my sealant every 1k miles or so, which might only be every 4 or 5 weeks with in the summer; having to re-seat them every time I checked sealant wasn't the worst thing in the world, but it wasn't ideal either, not when there are other really good tires that don't make maintenance as fussy.
I'm running P-Zeros right now, too; they've stayed locked for me. Ditto the Michelin Power Road TLR, which are also a nice tire.
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Thanks for the imput, with the 25 mm internal widht of the 303 Firecrest, a 28 would be like a 31, and the 30 would be like a 33, I was wondering if 33 is going to be a bit beyond of the sweet spot between comfort and speed
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Also, it's just tires - it's not a long-term commitment. If you ride a fair amount, you can wear out the first and still try the second later this year.
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Doubtful. See my earlier post. They will be the same width.
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Look at the most recent test that they put upon Friday- at 73 PSI the 32 is 9.4W which is less than the 25 (11W) or 28 (10.3W).
The 25 doesn’t have a lower rolling resistance until you pump it to a tooth shaking 102 PSI.
realistically the difference is negligible and likely comfort/cushion would make up for any aero loss as well over a longer ride.
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The 25mm is neither nor there, anyway - it's not compatible with the 303 Firecrest Discs.
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No, it is true with the TR.
Look at the most recent test that they put upon Friday- at 73 PSI the 32 is 9.4W which is less than the 25 (11W) or 28 (10.3W).
The 25 doesn’t have a lower rolling resistance until you pump it to a tooth shaking 102 PSI.
realistically the difference is negligible and likely comfort/cushion would make up for any aero loss as well over a longer ride.
Look at the most recent test that they put upon Friday- at 73 PSI the 32 is 9.4W which is less than the 25 (11W) or 28 (10.3W).
The 25 doesn’t have a lower rolling resistance until you pump it to a tooth shaking 102 PSI.
realistically the difference is negligible and likely comfort/cushion would make up for any aero loss as well over a longer ride.
The 32mm GP5Ks is not faster than the 25 mm tire. Period.
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If it runs large, then I would stick with 28mm unless you like wide tires... FYI, my Pro 1s are true to size. I run 700x28mm on 19.4mm inner width rims.
I am a Schwalbe guy but I would have tried the new GP5K S TR if they would have been readily available at a decent price. I bought another set of Pro 1 this year again, however.
I am a Schwalbe guy but I would have tried the new GP5K S TR if they would have been readily available at a decent price. I bought another set of Pro 1 this year again, however.
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One important issue with the OPs rims is they are 30mm diameter on the outside .. even if 25s would mount they would not hit the magic 105% for optimal aero. 28 or 30 will be the sweet spot.
Also see the BRR conclusion, 25s today are 23s of yesterday according to them. As rim IDs get bigger the manufacturers are changing the size meaning to correspond to the average rim they will be on -- a wider one making the tire mount wider.
Also see the BRR conclusion, 25s today are 23s of yesterday according to them. As rim IDs get bigger the manufacturers are changing the size meaning to correspond to the average rim they will be on -- a wider one making the tire mount wider.
In the case of the Grand Prix 5000 S TR, we always recommend picking the 28-622 version over the 25-622 version. In our opinion, the 25-622 versions of new road bike tires have been downsized too much, and they are now close to the size of 23-622 tires from a couple of years ago. Going even bigger than the 28-622 might be even better, but it will depend a lot on your personal preferences.