GUIDE: Repairing Shimano 600 (6400) STI Levers
07-03-13, 01:28 AM
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GUIDE: Repairing Shimano 600 (6400) STI Levers
Another guide, now for the 600 STIs. These were in very bad cosmetic condition(on the brink of being unusable) and the shifters did not click at all. Obvious signs of the gummed up grease.
600 levers are not symmetrical. The right side lever is different to the left side lever. So I will be going through both left and right sides in this guide.
RIGHT SIDE
Use a 2mm allen key to remove this grub screw. Theres a little threadlock so it may be tight.
Get some sort of tool(4mm key in this case) to push out the pivot.
Now you can remove the lever from the body. Use a knife or flat edged tool to peel off the 600 badge.
Use a 8mm socket to unscrew the nameplate screw. Make sure youre holding onto both the name plate and the lever when unscrewing, otherise there is a possibility that the name plate will go flying off as its connected to a loaded spring.
Carefully lift whilst twisting the name plate off. You will be greeted with this spring. This is different to the assembly of the new Sora(3300) and 105(5500) levers, but exactly the same as the RX100 and RSX. Id say its much more easy to dismantle and rebuild because the spring is here.
Flip to the backside of the lever, and push over the smaller lever to reveal a Phillips screw. Unscrew this, and be careful of a small screw washer behind.
600 levers are not symmetrical. The right side lever is different to the left side lever. So I will be going through both left and right sides in this guide.
RIGHT SIDE
Use a 2mm allen key to remove this grub screw. Theres a little threadlock so it may be tight.
Get some sort of tool(4mm key in this case) to push out the pivot.
Now you can remove the lever from the body. Use a knife or flat edged tool to peel off the 600 badge.
Use a 8mm socket to unscrew the nameplate screw. Make sure youre holding onto both the name plate and the lever when unscrewing, otherise there is a possibility that the name plate will go flying off as its connected to a loaded spring.
Carefully lift whilst twisting the name plate off. You will be greeted with this spring. This is different to the assembly of the new Sora(3300) and 105(5500) levers, but exactly the same as the RX100 and RSX. Id say its much more easy to dismantle and rebuild because the spring is here.
Flip to the backside of the lever, and push over the smaller lever to reveal a Phillips screw. Unscrew this, and be careful of a small screw washer behind.
07-03-13, 01:29 AM
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Now the large lever can be pulled off to reveal the innards. I believe this would be the lever that has the most gummed up grease. Its filthy!
Proceed with cleaning up the old grease using whatever means you like(I like to use petrol). A quick soak allowed me to brush if all off. Once cleaned up, apply grease to the pawls.
LEFT SIDEIt is not entirely the same as the right lever, but its still close enough to the right side to dismantle.
2mm allen key
Peel off the badge, and unscrew with the 8mm socket. Remove the name plate as above.
Flip it over and push over the small lever to reveal a Phillips screw.
Proceed with cleaning up the old grease using whatever means you like(I like to use petrol). A quick soak allowed me to brush if all off. Once cleaned up, apply grease to the pawls.
LEFT SIDEIt is not entirely the same as the right lever, but its still close enough to the right side to dismantle.
2mm allen key
Peel off the badge, and unscrew with the 8mm socket. Remove the name plate as above.
Flip it over and push over the small lever to reveal a Phillips screw.
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07-03-13, 01:29 AM
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Lever comes right off to reveal the innards. Now this side was dry as! Sand and dirt managed to get inside.
Clean up the grease with fuel, or degreaser.
And out comes a clean lever. But theres an issue with this one. If you look carefully, one trim position has sheared off. It still holds the gear alright, but theres always the chance of it slipping.
Both levers can go back together in the opposite way they came apart, so back trace, and you shouldnt have a problem. The badges need to be glued back on, unless you reckon the glue on it is still good enough.
Finished Product! I could use the 600 lever bodies, as the pivoting area is cracking. The chrome plated parts were flaking and I dont wanna polish it up after what I went through with the name plates. The 600 levers and DA levers had chrome plated name plates and lever bodies. It looks good if it still is there. My pair had the chrome flaking and corroding away. I know there are chemical methods of removing chrome, but I just sanded down(took forever!), then polished up. The levers gun metal paint was is half dead condition, so I just sanded it down and then polished up.
Interesting notes:
- This has its own unique hoods, but the shape of the lever body will allow for the use of the same hoods as the RSX and RX100, which is also shared with the 105 SC levers(ST-1055).
- The 600 lever is very similar to the other STIs of that time, and parts are intechangable. I am using the RSX lever bodies.
Oh, and I will offer a service to rebuild STI levers. So far I have done the Sora(3300), 105(5500), RX100, RSX, and the 600 as above, but I am sure that I can get around to doing the others without too many problems. I will also gladly take in any broken shifters, or ones that do not work anymore. Please PM me if youre interested!
OTHER GUIDES for this lever
https://imgur.com/a/0tPBK
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-rebuild-guide
Clean up the grease with fuel, or degreaser.
And out comes a clean lever. But theres an issue with this one. If you look carefully, one trim position has sheared off. It still holds the gear alright, but theres always the chance of it slipping.
Both levers can go back together in the opposite way they came apart, so back trace, and you shouldnt have a problem. The badges need to be glued back on, unless you reckon the glue on it is still good enough.
Finished Product! I could use the 600 lever bodies, as the pivoting area is cracking. The chrome plated parts were flaking and I dont wanna polish it up after what I went through with the name plates. The 600 levers and DA levers had chrome plated name plates and lever bodies. It looks good if it still is there. My pair had the chrome flaking and corroding away. I know there are chemical methods of removing chrome, but I just sanded down(took forever!), then polished up. The levers gun metal paint was is half dead condition, so I just sanded it down and then polished up.
Interesting notes:
- This has its own unique hoods, but the shape of the lever body will allow for the use of the same hoods as the RSX and RX100, which is also shared with the 105 SC levers(ST-1055).
- The 600 lever is very similar to the other STIs of that time, and parts are intechangable. I am using the RSX lever bodies.
Oh, and I will offer a service to rebuild STI levers. So far I have done the Sora(3300), 105(5500), RX100, RSX, and the 600 as above, but I am sure that I can get around to doing the others without too many problems. I will also gladly take in any broken shifters, or ones that do not work anymore. Please PM me if youre interested!
OTHER GUIDES for this lever
https://imgur.com/a/0tPBK
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-rebuild-guide
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07-03-13, 03:38 AM
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Awesome, Quang. Getting that chrome off wouldn't have been much fun... at least you only had to do the nameplates.
Were the 600 bodies any lighter than the RSX ones?
IMO you should repaint the levers in the metallic charcoal; it's a 600 signature!
Also, those badges still look pretty crappy, huh. Tell you what you can do - the cloudy plastic bits should come off without too much trouble, then the badges will look new! Protect them with some framesaver patches. I just use blu-tack to hold them on, works fine if you get the amount right.
Were the 600 bodies any lighter than the RSX ones?
IMO you should repaint the levers in the metallic charcoal; it's a 600 signature!
Also, those badges still look pretty crappy, huh. Tell you what you can do - the cloudy plastic bits should come off without too much trouble, then the badges will look new! Protect them with some framesaver patches. I just use blu-tack to hold them on, works fine if you get the amount right.
__________________
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
07-03-13, 06:13 AM
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Try polishing the face plates with Colgate whitening toothpaste and a damp cloth. That made a big difference on mine.
07-03-13, 07:07 AM
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a77impala beat me to it. Toothpaste is one of those lifehacks for cloudy plastics. It works well for cleaning up older headlights on a car, etc. I wouldn't be surprised to see it clear up those badges. Plus it would be an easy step, so even if it doesn't work, it's not like you lost much out of it.
07-03-13, 10:56 PM
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Awesome, Quang. Getting that chrome off wouldn't have been much fun... at least you only had to do the nameplates.
Were the 600 bodies any lighter than the RSX ones?
IMO you should repaint the levers in the metallic charcoal; it's a 600 signature!
Also, those badges still look pretty crappy, huh. Tell you what you can do - the cloudy plastic bits should come off without too much trouble, then the badges will look new! Protect them with some framesaver patches. I just use blu-tack to hold them on, works fine if you get the amount right.
Were the 600 bodies any lighter than the RSX ones?
IMO you should repaint the levers in the metallic charcoal; it's a 600 signature!
Also, those badges still look pretty crappy, huh. Tell you what you can do - the cloudy plastic bits should come off without too much trouble, then the badges will look new! Protect them with some framesaver patches. I just use blu-tack to hold them on, works fine if you get the amount right.
Also as a long term solution you can use clear-drying puzzle glue. In 6 years when you rebuild the levers again you won't have to replace some poly sticker / framesaver. The puzzle glue (2-3 applications, letting dry fully in between) lasts forever and never clouds.
07-04-13, 04:09 AM
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I doubt the toothpaste would make it look new, but I guess it's worth a shot.
You don't my way either. With the badge off, firmly apply the sticker, then use scissors to trim it to exactly the same size (you should know this trick). Married.
Then once the badge is stuck on with blu-tack*, it comes off if you want but not if you don't.
No reason to remove the clear off the badge.
*In case folks outside Oz have never heard of the stuff, it's sticky goo for holding up posters and so forth.
You don't my way either. With the badge off, firmly apply the sticker, then use scissors to trim it to exactly the same size (you should know this trick). Married.
Then once the badge is stuck on with blu-tack*, it comes off if you want but not if you don't.
No reason to remove the clear off the badge.
*In case folks outside Oz have never heard of the stuff, it's sticky goo for holding up posters and so forth.
__________________
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Last edited by Kimmo; 07-04-13 at 04:13 AM.
07-05-13, 03:44 PM
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Hey Quang!
Just sent you an e-mail regarding the RXS shifter. I'm looking to re-assemble one after stupidly taking the entire thing apart, rather than trying to clean the inner parts while still partially assembled. I'm also looking to re-assemble a 600 shifter, but as I've actually replaced them with Sora on my LeMond Zurich, I'm willing to part with it - both left and right - but, of course, the left 600 is completely disassembled :-(
Just sent you an e-mail regarding the RXS shifter. I'm looking to re-assemble one after stupidly taking the entire thing apart, rather than trying to clean the inner parts while still partially assembled. I'm also looking to re-assemble a 600 shifter, but as I've actually replaced them with Sora on my LeMond Zurich, I'm willing to part with it - both left and right - but, of course, the left 600 is completely disassembled :-(
07-05-13, 08:51 PM
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The best way to tackle such a mission is to get hold of another lever of the same type and partially disassemble it for a reference.
__________________
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
07-05-13, 09:48 PM
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Great info the best thing to rember on older none working Shimano STI stuff is you can't really damage it in meaningfull way. If you succede and get stuff working and smooth great you get you set of STI's for no more than a hour or two of work, if you fail your only out some of your time.
07-07-13, 05:16 AM
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Yep, they are almost indestructable. But someone has managed to shear off one of the trim positions on my lever. It does slip sometimes, but its still able to shift alright.
07-31-13, 06:38 AM
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Great info the best thing to rember on older none working Shimano STI stuff is you can't really damage it in meaningfull way. If you succede and get stuff working and smooth great you get you set of STI's for no more than a hour or two of work, if you fail your only out some of your time.
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08-25-13, 10:16 PM
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Thanks for the guide, QuangVuong; I pulled apart two left 105SC levers on the weekend, while one has bigger issues and takes several shifts to engage properly, the second one is shifting like new!
It's kinda addictive and now I'm looking at pulling apart my right lever even though it's working properly, just to give it a clean and lube.
Here's a picture because I took one:
It's kinda addictive and now I'm looking at pulling apart my right lever even though it's working properly, just to give it a clean and lube.
Here's a picture because I took one:
08-30-14, 12:07 PM
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Hi QuangVuong, thanks for the guide. Couldnt find the manual at shimano.
Just wondering if you or anyone here could lend a help at my thread here
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...d-masters.html
Had to open a thread in fear of non related discussion.
Thanks in advance.
Just wondering if you or anyone here could lend a help at my thread here
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...d-masters.html
Had to open a thread in fear of non related discussion.
Thanks in advance.
08-30-14, 09:08 PM
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This is great for future references if I need it. Now I know it is possible...
08-31-14, 06:14 AM
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08-31-14, 09:24 AM
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QV, you, Sir, did an awesome and timely self-done project to demonstrate the disassembly. How generous and giving!
10-21-14, 02:59 AM
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Hi!
nice work. I just bought 600 sti and started taking them apart (after reading this thread). The guy was selling them as brake only because they wouldnt shift, he says. What does he know
bent two 2mm allen keys trying to remove the first screw. Not giving up.
Can the small lever be taken of also? For painting, that is.
thank you
nice work. I just bought 600 sti and started taking them apart (after reading this thread). The guy was selling them as brake only because they wouldnt shift, he says. What does he know
bent two 2mm allen keys trying to remove the first screw. Not giving up.
Can the small lever be taken of also? For painting, that is.
thank you
10-21-14, 04:02 AM
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Yes, the smaller lever can be taken off. You'll have to go about it from the back side. Unscrew the nut with the 4 slots in it, then you can pull off the bracket that holds the brack cable, and you will be able to pull off the small paddle.
The 2mm allen key may be rusted in there. Ive broken a few allen keys myself. Try to get the tightest fitting allen key in there, otherwise you may strip the hex shape.
The 2mm allen key may be rusted in there. Ive broken a few allen keys myself. Try to get the tightest fitting allen key in there, otherwise you may strip the hex shape.
10-21-14, 06:43 AM
#23
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Tiny Allen keys annoy me with their round-off-proneness. There must be a better way.
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12-20-14, 11:58 AM
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hey QuangVong, thanks for this great guide... the only trouble I'm having is that I can't seem to get the return spring back into place when reassembling my right lever. Any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong?
Never mind, found a neat trick involving a small screwdriver in a thread by @Kimmo.
Never mind, found a neat trick involving a small screwdriver in a thread by @Kimmo.
Slide the lever almost into place so the spring is located laterally, and get a little screwdriver under the end of the spring to wind up so you can get its end over the corner of the lever body. Then push the lever into the body, compressing the spring, and slide in the pivot pin (with the thin part corresponding to the grub screw).
Last edited by Italuminium; 12-20-14 at 12:10 PM.
12-20-14, 03:08 PM
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Thee screw driver is one method of doing it. My method is to imagine the shifter is mounted on a drop bar. Then to install the shifting mechanism to the lever body, you slide it up from the bottom side, and then push the pin in. Rather than going in the front side like everyone would.
Probably sounds confusing, but I'll try to get a pic up.
Probably sounds confusing, but I'll try to get a pic up.
