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Dura-Ace FH-7403 question

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Dura-Ace FH-7403 question

Old 09-28-22, 02:09 PM
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fvernon
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Dura-Ace FH-7403 question

I have a couple of Dura-Ace 7400 series hubs, and the FH7403 (the one that can take a hyperglide cassette with the mushroom locknut that help it press a 126mm spacing out to 130mm) has one quirk that is really frustrating.

It seems that, in order to tighten or remove the lockring with a typical lockring tool like the TL-FW30, I need to remove the axle (because of the size of the mushroom lock nut). A typical lockring tool just doesn't have the internal diameter to get over the mushroom locknut. I'm wondering if there is a lockring tool that has a large enough internal diameter to get around the mushroom lock nut--do I need to track down an old TL-HG15 or is there something I'm missing when it comes to using a hyperglide cassette on this particular hub? Maybe there's an obvious solution I'm just failing to recognize?

This old FH-7403 instruction page says that both the TL-HG15 and the TL-FW30 can be used, but my experience has been the TL-FW30 requires the added step of removing the axle (and then needing to repack the bearings & adjust the lock nuts every time a cassette is replaced). https://manualzz.com/doc/53871484/sh...e-instructions
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Old 09-28-22, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by fvernon View Post
I have a couple of Dura-Ace 7400 series hubs, and the FH7403 (the one that can take a hyperglide cassette with the mushroom locknut that help it press a 126mm spacing out to 130mm) has one quirk that is really frustrating.

It seems that, in order to tighten or remove the lockring with a typical lockring tool like the TL-FW30, I need to remove the axle (because of the size of the mushroom lock nut). A typical lockring tool just doesn't have the internal diameter to get over the mushroom locknut. I'm wondering if there is a lockring tool that has a large enough internal diameter to get around the mushroom lock nut--do I need to track down an old TL-HG15 or is there something I'm missing when it comes to using a hyperglide cassette on this particular hub? Maybe there's an obvious solution I'm just failing to recognize?

This old FH-7403 instruction page says that both the TL-HG15 and the TL-FW30 can be used, but my experience has been the TL-FW30 requires the added step of removing the axle (and then needing to repack the bearings & adjust the lock nuts every time a cassette is replaced). https://manualzz.com/doc/53871484/sh...e-instructions
Sorry no good info to add other than I know I used those hubs with that locknut, and no way would I have ever taken the axle out to replace a cassette! I must have had a tool that fit over the locknut.

Maybe sand a little off the locknut by spinning it up against a belt sander (poor man's lathe), and/or take a little off the ID of your tool like with a sanding drum in a drill or dremel.

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Old 09-28-22, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by bulgie View Post
take a little off the ID of your tool like with a sanding drum in a drill or dremel.
Interesting idea; I hadn't really thought about dremelling out the inside of a lockring tool. My immediate worry is thinning out the metal to the point of failure, but that's without checking to see how much is there to remove. It could also be that my lockring tool is sort of a mess after so many years of use--I should probably just get the dang thing out and see if it needs to be replaced.
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Old 09-28-22, 05:36 PM
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Maybe use a readily available aftermarket lockring tool, rather than the Shimano freewheel tool? I don't recall having any problem with mine with this kind of tool.


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Old 09-28-22, 06:16 PM
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I have a couple 7403 hubs currently in service. I've got a tool like this one. I don't know what brand it is but I've never had a problem.

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Old 09-28-22, 06:39 PM
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If the hub has been taken apart, it's possible that the locknuts were installed on the wrong side, as both locknuts are not the same.The non-drive side (NDS) locknut has a larger diameter (by ~0.031") and a deeper bevel. The TL-FW30 will not fit over it. If your tool fits over the locknut currently installed on the non-drive side, then the locknuts have been switched, side for side.

Edit: The non-drive side locknut dfoes not fit into either of my two Shimano TL-FW30 or my Park tool. It's a light interference fit with mu LIfu.



Last edited by T-Mar; 09-29-22 at 07:55 AM. Reason: added tool comparison and photos
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Old 09-28-22, 11:30 PM
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I got a set of DA wheels in a package trade that not only had the nuts swapped but they were both on backwards. The WTF? moment was very special. All in all it was actually a dyno deal and def good for a laugh.
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Old 09-28-22, 11:39 PM
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Learned something new today! Glad both of my 7403 hubs that came to me were overhauled correctly in the past. I can confirm I've never had an issue with using any normal Shimano FH lockring tool on them. Love these hubs.
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Old 09-29-22, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RiddleOfSteel View Post
...Love these hubs.
+1. The combination of freehub, cassette, 8 speeds, Hyperglide sprockets and Dura-Ace quality made them hard to beat. I preferred them over my 8 speed C-Record hubs.
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Old 09-29-22, 10:48 AM
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I was in the process of accepting DA as a quality, durable product until two things happened.
1. The piece that keeps the adjustment screws on the FD failed and fell off.
2. FH-7403 cone RS1 2 on Flickr

1. is minor and can be addressed with something else than the original part.
2. Does not have an easy solution without extravagant $ outlay for a near commodity like part due to lack of supply of a unique design. Leads one to think it was designed to be disposable.

I will stick with the Campagnolo components which I have a higher level of acceptance of failure because I have found parts or alternative solutions. Just my preference. No problem with others choosing other brands.
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Old 10-03-22, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by T-Mar View Post
If the hub has been taken apart, it's possible that the locknuts were installed on the wrong side, as both locknuts are not the same.The non-drive side (NDS) locknut has a larger diameter (by ~0.031") and a deeper bevel. The TL-FW30 will not fit over it. If your tool fits over the locknut currently installed on the non-drive side, then the locknuts have been switched, side for side.
Very good possibility a previous owner accidentally swapped the locknuts. I'll rebuild and check into that (and, no doubt, need to completely redish the wheel in the process)
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Old 10-17-22, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by T-Mar View Post
If the hub has been taken apart, it's possible that the locknuts were installed on the wrong side
Unfortunately, the locknuts are installed correctly; or, to be more specific, the NDS locknut is on the correct side. I think the DS locknut on my hub is wrong, possibly the wrong type and size installed during someone's haphazard hub overhaul. I'll take the hub apart & see what's going on--and post pics, of course.
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Old 10-18-22, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by bulgie View Post
Maybe sand a little off the locknut by spinning it up against a belt sander (poor man's lathe), and/or take a little off the ID of your tool like with a sanding drum in a drill or dremel.
I've used a hand-held tapered reamer to increase the ID of freewheel removers to fit over my tandem's oversize rear axle. The Hozan tapered reamer covers the range 3mm to 16mm:


https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-Tapered.../dp/B002TKEHVM
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