I think I just found a 1981/82 Trek 957 w/ Super Record. What am I even doing?
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Worst of the wear is the seat tube cluster. Is there an Imron silver sparkle paint match that is close? I feel like some sympathetic touch up would be a good idea
You might be able to get some help at an auto paint store that does custom color mixing, but it costs something like 20 or 25 bucks per can, and it's not guaranteed. It will still be a single stage paint.
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...Imron is a two stage epoxy type paint. So no, not really. Metallic silver is one of the most difficult colors to match, IME. You are either off on the color itself (there are many, many shades/values of silver). or you will be off on the metallic flake, which has been added to the paint. The flake comes in a variety of sizes and textures. I have one frame in silver where I repainted the entire bike, because I like the frame and got tired of the dreadful looking touchups.
You might be able to get some help at an auto paint store that does custom color mixing, but it costs something like 20 or 25 bucks per can, and it's not guaranteed. It will still be a single stage paint.
You might be able to get some help at an auto paint store that does custom color mixing, but it costs something like 20 or 25 bucks per can, and it's not guaranteed. It will still be a single stage paint.
If there is not a lot of touch-up I would just get some sliver and black and get as close as you can color wise. IMHO you will never "match" or blend a large spot without having to paint the entire tube.....so touchup with a brush or toothpick would be my best approach.
Best, Ben
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Congratulations on this find, these are outstanding bikes. I had the same questions after I acquired mine. I looked up the serial number and according to the Vintage Trek site, mine was a 1982 silver and blue 950 frame. A couple of ways I confirmed this:
1. This frame had Campy dropouts. As I understand, that meant it was either a 957 full bike with Campy components, or a bare 950 frame. I believe the 959 had Dura Ace dropouts, and was outfitted with a Dura Ace group.
2. The 957 model was apparently only made in white/blue (see below from the Vintage Trek site)
3. Once I had it apart, I noticed the steerer tube had the "950" mark on it, which confirmed it.
Andy
1. This frame had Campy dropouts. As I understand, that meant it was either a 957 full bike with Campy components, or a bare 950 frame. I believe the 959 had Dura Ace dropouts, and was outfitted with a Dura Ace group.
2. The 957 model was apparently only made in white/blue (see below from the Vintage Trek site)
3. Once I had it apart, I noticed the steerer tube had the "950" mark on it, which confirmed it.
Andy
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Interesting bike.
when I first saw the stacked text downtube panel I thought it was an after the sale conversion.
makes A challenge to clamp it in the workstand.
the saddle has a cast chassis, note the aftermarket bolt to hold it as the chassis is quite tall.
when I first saw the stacked text downtube panel I thought it was an after the sale conversion.
makes A challenge to clamp it in the workstand.
the saddle has a cast chassis, note the aftermarket bolt to hold it as the chassis is quite tall.
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You won't match the paint and it'll look bad. Use clear nail polish to touch up bare metal. The scuffs will look better than poorly matched paint.
If you're talking about replacing the Columbus decal- the new ones are vinyl decals, not the onion skin decals like the old ones...
This is a bike that you do EVERYTHING right on. Everything is original- once you replace or repaint- you can't un-ring that bell. Everything I'm seeing just needs to be cleaned up- nothing on that frame should be replaced.
If you're thinking that scuffed Columbus decal bothers you- in 3 months you won't even notice it.
You are now the caretaker of a super rare and super desirable machine. Congratulations!!
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I agree with The Golden Boy your bike is in fine shape as is. Just clean it up a bit and ride, these are indeed rare. Took me a long time to find mine!
Andy
Arvada CO USA
Andy
Arvada CO USA
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Please don't do that!
You won't match the paint and it'll look bad. Use clear nail polish to touch up bare metal. The scuffs will look better than poorly matched paint.
If you're talking about replacing the Columbus decal- the new ones are vinyl decals, not the onion skin decals like the old ones...
This is a bike that you do EVERYTHING right on. Everything is original- once you replace or repaint- you can't un-ring that bell. Everything I'm seeing just needs to be cleaned up- nothing on that frame should be replaced.
If you're thinking that scuffed Columbus decal bothers you- in 3 months you won't even notice it.
You are now the caretaker of a super rare and super desirable machine. Congratulations!!
You won't match the paint and it'll look bad. Use clear nail polish to touch up bare metal. The scuffs will look better than poorly matched paint.
If you're talking about replacing the Columbus decal- the new ones are vinyl decals, not the onion skin decals like the old ones...
This is a bike that you do EVERYTHING right on. Everything is original- once you replace or repaint- you can't un-ring that bell. Everything I'm seeing just needs to be cleaned up- nothing on that frame should be replaced.
If you're thinking that scuffed Columbus decal bothers you- in 3 months you won't even notice it.
You are now the caretaker of a super rare and super desirable machine. Congratulations!!
I agree with The Golden Boy your bike is in fine shape as is. Just clean it up a bit and ride, these are indeed rare. Took me a long time to find mine!
Andy
Arvada CO USA
Andy
Arvada CO USA
lol okay okay you've got me convinced! I won't do anything crazy. I *was* looking for one of those columbus stickers, and one of the 'United States of America' just to clean it up a little bit, but I will leave well enough alone.
I have good news about bad news! I just took it this afternoon for its maiden-to-me voyage, and it did not disappoint. If anything I probably disappointed it. I kept hearing this little message emanating from below me saying 'Faster! I want to go faster!' no joke I was almost literally hearing it. But, thanks to @due ruote I checked the tubulars, and sure enough the tires were not really sticking to the tape anymore, so I was extremely careful to not go too fast and put much pressure into cornering. That will be a bit of a learning curve. No big deal, just need to catch up on it.
Also, the stem was easily adjustable and had visible grease from where I raised it. Good stuff.
Bad news? I tried adjusting the seatpost. Its stuck. Now, maybe its not really stuck that bad, but didn't budge at all from trying to twist it. It is actually at a good height for me (so that's good!) but it is disconcerting. I'm hoping it is just lightly stuck and maybe some very sensitive prying apart on the clamp will do the trick. Any tips appreciated.
Pictures to come here in a moment!
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lol okay okay you've got me convinced! I won't do anything crazy. I *was* looking for one of those columbus stickers, and one of the 'United States of America' just to clean it up a little bit, but I will leave well enough alone.
I have good news about bad news! I just took it this afternoon for its maiden-to-me voyage, and it did not disappoint. If anything I probably disappointed it. I kept hearing this little message emanating from below me saying 'Faster! I want to go faster!' no joke I was almost literally hearing it. But, thanks to @due ruote I checked the tubulars, and sure enough the tires were not really sticking to the tape anymore, so I was extremely careful to not go too fast and put much pressure into cornering. That will be a bit of a learning curve. No big deal, just need to catch up on it.
Also, the stem was easily adjustable and had visible grease from where I raised it. Good stuff.
Bad news? I tried adjusting the seatpost. Its stuck. Now, maybe its not really stuck that bad, but didn't budge at all from trying to twist it. It is actually at a good height for me (so that's good!) but it is disconcerting. I'm hoping it is just lightly stuck and maybe some very sensitive prying apart on the clamp will do the trick. Any tips appreciated.
I have good news about bad news! I just took it this afternoon for its maiden-to-me voyage, and it did not disappoint. If anything I probably disappointed it. I kept hearing this little message emanating from below me saying 'Faster! I want to go faster!' no joke I was almost literally hearing it. But, thanks to @due ruote I checked the tubulars, and sure enough the tires were not really sticking to the tape anymore, so I was extremely careful to not go too fast and put much pressure into cornering. That will be a bit of a learning curve. No big deal, just need to catch up on it.
Also, the stem was easily adjustable and had visible grease from where I raised it. Good stuff.
Bad news? I tried adjusting the seatpost. Its stuck. Now, maybe its not really stuck that bad, but didn't budge at all from trying to twist it. It is actually at a good height for me (so that's good!) but it is disconcerting. I'm hoping it is just lightly stuck and maybe some very sensitive prying apart on the clamp will do the trick. Any tips appreciated.
As far as the ride goes- Most of my bikes are touring bikes. I have a 78/79 730- the 531 "racing" frame. It is different than my next "fastest" bike. It's so much lighter, it's so much more nimble feeling. It does make you feel different being on there. Yours is an advancement on that old x30 geometry. And then you also have tubulars... that's enough of a difference maker. I'm envious you get to experience it!
As far as your seat post goes... Do a whole lot of reading- my guess is you want to start with the least vicious methods first. Heat/cold, "secret sauce," and save the BFH and hacksaw for the very very very last resort.
You may not want to do any tapping down on it- if it's already at your size, and you do tap it down, it's going to scratch... then you have the scratches showing...
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Some cleanup today! Was such a gorgeous day and a great way to spend a Saturday!
Took me half a day to clean up just the rear derailleur! Also found the wheels cracked. Will need some replacements at some point -
Amazingly, I didn't lose any pieces. And, it cleaned up really nicely.
Lot's more work to do to clean it up.
Took me half a day to clean up just the rear derailleur! Also found the wheels cracked. Will need some replacements at some point -
Amazingly, I didn't lose any pieces. And, it cleaned up really nicely.
Lot's more work to do to clean it up.
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On the test ride!
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Cool find.
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You've got an outrageously cool and rare bike- it's not mint- so you're not fooling anyone by redoing decals. At this point, it's preserving. Look at a lot of old bike with Columbus and (especially) 531 decals- even new they were falling apart.
As far as the ride goes- Most of my bikes are touring bikes. I have a 78/79 730- the 531 "racing" frame. It is different than my next "fastest" bike. It's so much lighter, it's so much more nimble feeling. It does make you feel different being on there. Yours is an advancement on that old x30 geometry. And then you also have tubulars... that's enough of a difference maker. I'm envious you get to experience it!
As far as your seat post goes... Do a whole lot of reading- my guess is you want to start with the least vicious methods first. Heat/cold, "secret sauce," and save the BFH and hacksaw for the very very very last resort.
You may not want to do any tapping down on it- if it's already at your size, and you do tap it down, it's going to scratch... then you have the scratches showing...
As far as the ride goes- Most of my bikes are touring bikes. I have a 78/79 730- the 531 "racing" frame. It is different than my next "fastest" bike. It's so much lighter, it's so much more nimble feeling. It does make you feel different being on there. Yours is an advancement on that old x30 geometry. And then you also have tubulars... that's enough of a difference maker. I'm envious you get to experience it!
As far as your seat post goes... Do a whole lot of reading- my guess is you want to start with the least vicious methods first. Heat/cold, "secret sauce," and save the BFH and hacksaw for the very very very last resort.
You may not want to do any tapping down on it- if it's already at your size, and you do tap it down, it's going to scratch... then you have the scratches showing...
'87 Ironman Master w/ threadless conversion. Miss the Miami Vice! Please ignore the grotesque stem on there!
I remember seeing an absolutely gorgeous Trek frame on here that someone had powdercoated...I mean it was simply spectacular. I'd really like to find it again to find out who the powdercoater was so I could go that route. I suppose more research. But yeah, I want to start light. I'm tempted to just leave it if I can't get it loose. I'm not willing to go lye and ruin the paint on this one, or a hacksaw blade and destroy the frame.
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Was that the purple metal flake one?
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I agree with The Golden Boy your bike is in fine shape as is. Just clean it up a bit and ride, these are indeed rare. Took me a long time to find mine!
Andy
Arvada CO USA
Andy
Arvada CO USA
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Congratulations on this find, these are outstanding bikes. I had the same questions after I acquired mine. I looked up the serial number and according to the Vintage Trek site, mine was a 1982 silver and blue 950 frame. A couple of ways I confirmed this:
1. This frame had Campy dropouts. As I understand, that meant it was either a 957 full bike with Campy components, or a bare 950 frame. I believe the 959 had Dura Ace dropouts, and was outfitted with a Dura Ace group.
2. The 957 model was apparently only made in white/blue (see below from the Vintage Trek site)
3. Once I had it apart, I noticed the steerer tube had the "950" mark on it, which confirmed it.
Andy
1. This frame had Campy dropouts. As I understand, that meant it was either a 957 full bike with Campy components, or a bare 950 frame. I believe the 959 had Dura Ace dropouts, and was outfitted with a Dura Ace group.
2. The 957 model was apparently only made in white/blue (see below from the Vintage Trek site)
3. Once I had it apart, I noticed the steerer tube had the "950" mark on it, which confirmed it.
Andy
This has me curious! Were there some liberties taken with the pricesheets or the way bikes were built? Were all 957s and 959s technically '950's and stamped as such? Just spec'd differently? It would make sense to have just a basic '950' frame and then just call it a 957 or a 959 based on what components get put on it. Or, someone could just as easily buy a 950 frame, and build it out with any component spec. With this bike however, the component group, at least to my basic knowledge, exactly matches the 'OX' package listed in the pricesheet. If I had to bet, I would think that the bike came from Trek like this, as it makes sense that it would be spec'd with their package rather thank purchased separately afterward with the exact same components. But I could always be wrong. I wonder if someone like JohnDThompson could shed any light on how the bikes were named within the context of groupset selection.
What is interesting is with the wear around the seat cluster, I actually see a white / blue paint underneath the silver. Was that some sort of base coat, or does it have anything to do with the '82 coloration?
Last edited by AdventureManCO; 09-17-22 at 06:51 PM.
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OP,
I and others have offered you congratulations as well as some advice regarding the servicing of your "new" bike.....if I may I would like to offer a bit more. With all of the excitement, sometimes there is an urge to rush to repair/replace....To FIX things. I would suggest taking it easy, do some reading/research not only about the Trek but how to repair it without damaging it, cosmetically or mechanically. There is no need to repeat the mistakes many have made.
How have others solved a stuck seat post, what is the least abusive way, lye would be my last resort long after I have soaked the post and seat tube with some penetrant...my point is take your time so you can minimize regrets in the future,etc. etc.
JM2C's, Best, Ben
I and others have offered you congratulations as well as some advice regarding the servicing of your "new" bike.....if I may I would like to offer a bit more. With all of the excitement, sometimes there is an urge to rush to repair/replace....To FIX things. I would suggest taking it easy, do some reading/research not only about the Trek but how to repair it without damaging it, cosmetically or mechanically. There is no need to repeat the mistakes many have made.
How have others solved a stuck seat post, what is the least abusive way, lye would be my last resort long after I have soaked the post and seat tube with some penetrant...my point is take your time so you can minimize regrets in the future,etc. etc.
JM2C's, Best, Ben
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#46
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OP,
I and others have offered you congratulations as well as some advice regarding the servicing of your "new" bike.....if I may I would like to offer a bit more. With all of the excitement, sometimes there is an urge to rush to repair/replace....To FIX things. I would suggest taking it easy, do some reading/research not only about the Trek but how to repair it without damaging it, cosmetically or mechanically. There is no need to repeat the mistakes many have made.
How have others solved a stuck seat post, what is the least abusive way, lye would be my last resort long after I have soaked the post and seat tube with some penetrant...my point is take your time so you can minimize regrets in the future,etc. etc.
JM2C's, Best, Ben
I and others have offered you congratulations as well as some advice regarding the servicing of your "new" bike.....if I may I would like to offer a bit more. With all of the excitement, sometimes there is an urge to rush to repair/replace....To FIX things. I would suggest taking it easy, do some reading/research not only about the Trek but how to repair it without damaging it, cosmetically or mechanically. There is no need to repeat the mistakes many have made.
How have others solved a stuck seat post, what is the least abusive way, lye would be my last resort long after I have soaked the post and seat tube with some penetrant...my point is take your time so you can minimize regrets in the future,etc. etc.
JM2C's, Best, Ben
It may seem odd, but I'm actually thankful for the lye treatment on the IM. It destroyed the paint, but it saved the frame. I had a feeling I would have done something really wrong had it been through other means.
Thank you for weighing in on this. I'm grateful for it, because like I said I'm totally a mixmaster bike project guy and this bike is so far on the other side of the spectrum from that.
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I’m a little late to the party on this thread, but congrats on a great find. These old Treks are really beautiful frames and they have really quality paint on them. I’m still enjoying my recent old Trek find. Mine’s a ‘83 970, also a Columbus frame but without the Cinelli bottom bracket. I’m sure you’ll enjoy this bike and also enjoy having something so rare in your collection.
@Drillium Dude That saddle with the crazy cast frame is by Selle Royal. My Mike Walton came with one and it’s badged as a Pearl Izumi (Flolite). I didn’t care for it, it has very generous cushioning…too much for me. I’m not sure what the rails are made of, but I would guess aluminum or magnesium. It is fairly light. I still have it if anyone has any interest in it.
@Drillium Dude That saddle with the crazy cast frame is by Selle Royal. My Mike Walton came with one and it’s badged as a Pearl Izumi (Flolite). I didn’t care for it, it has very generous cushioning…too much for me. I’m not sure what the rails are made of, but I would guess aluminum or magnesium. It is fairly light. I still have it if anyone has any interest in it.
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Well, took her for a ride the other night. I've ridden the bike around 3-4 times, and each time I've taken it a little faster. Still, not willing to push those old tubulars. They creak! I was hearing a cyclical squeaking/creaking sound, and it sounded like it was coming from the rim/tire in front, so my hunch was that it was the compromised glue interface. Its funny...each time I take it out, it calls out to me 'faster, faster!' But I can't yet and it is so hard not to. As I was nearing the end of the ride, the back end started feeling a little wobbly - sure enough, I got off and spun the back wheel and heard the 'hiss!' of a leak. The leak was coming from the valve - tire is toast. As well as it should be, since it was old, probably ready to fall off the rim, and may have even saved me from a spill had I continued pushing it.
Cleaned up the paint a bit
Whoop! Hearing a hiss!
Bye bye Conti Podium
I still need to give the bike a good detailing and cleaning, and we'll get there in due time. In the meantime, I've got my homework cut out for me in reading through the 'Totally Tubular' thread and finding some good replacements. I'd like something light and racy to match the bike, but living in Colorado means we need a little bit of thorn protection as well.
What's also interesting to me is the size of the frame. I measured it as a solid 54cm C-to-C. I felt like I have usually always ridden a 56cm, but the top tube length feels fine and when I straddle the bike, I have just a couple of inches that I can pick it up, so I guess it is the right size. The milled grooves of the seatpost go down past the seat tube, and it has a about a good fistful of seatpost sticking out and it feels right. I guess I'm a 54cm?
Cleaned up the paint a bit
Whoop! Hearing a hiss!
Bye bye Conti Podium
I still need to give the bike a good detailing and cleaning, and we'll get there in due time. In the meantime, I've got my homework cut out for me in reading through the 'Totally Tubular' thread and finding some good replacements. I'd like something light and racy to match the bike, but living in Colorado means we need a little bit of thorn protection as well.
What's also interesting to me is the size of the frame. I measured it as a solid 54cm C-to-C. I felt like I have usually always ridden a 56cm, but the top tube length feels fine and when I straddle the bike, I have just a couple of inches that I can pick it up, so I guess it is the right size. The milled grooves of the seatpost go down past the seat tube, and it has a about a good fistful of seatpost sticking out and it feels right. I guess I'm a 54cm?
Last edited by AdventureManCO; 09-28-22 at 08:29 PM.
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#49
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DD
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There are two ways a tubular can roll. One is loss of adhesion to the rim; the other is loss of adhesion between the tire and the backing tape that covers the stitching. The second is the one I would actually be more wary of with tires that old, not that I am ruling out the first. I would pump them up to 1/2 pressure, grab the rim with both hands, and use your thumbs to try to push the tire off the rim. Repeat at several points around the rim. See what happens. If they seem solid, a test ride should be fine, but I would be inclined still to keep it fairly short and don't rip around corners. But people ride on spares all the time that, while they may/should have been prepped with a layer of glue, aren't really glued on to normal standards.
I am pretty frugal, but I'd be circumspect about riding tires that old for very long. If they seem sound, keep them for spares, but it would be worth it to invest a pair of something pretty nice for that caliber of bike. You want to be able to put it through its paces without a nagging voice in your head telling you to slow down; remember those tires.
Beautiful bike, great find.
I am pretty frugal, but I'd be circumspect about riding tires that old for very long. If they seem sound, keep them for spares, but it would be worth it to invest a pair of something pretty nice for that caliber of bike. You want to be able to put it through its paces without a nagging voice in your head telling you to slow down; remember those tires.
Beautiful bike, great find.