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Need help/advice about a Peugeot Chorus

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Need help/advice about a Peugeot Chorus

Old 09-26-22, 10:54 PM
  #26  
1simplexnut
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Originally Posted by DaCox View Post
I got a peugot monaco a week ago for $25 because the back tire was completely bent and destroyed . the frame looked completely fine and it was. I went down to the local bicycle co-op and was able to get a set of used 700c rims, tires and tubes for $90. I have been using it as a commuter for now. I got larger width tires because the roads around here are crap.
Wow ! Talk about chalk and cheese .
those two machines are opposite ends of the bike spectrum .
I do notice a fairly large difference in the frame sizes ?
HAve you ridden the 753 ?
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Old 09-27-22, 04:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 1simplexnut View Post
Wow ! Talk about chalk and cheese .
those two machines are opposite ends of the bike spectrum .
I do notice a fairly large difference in the frame sizes ?
HAve you ridden the 753 ?
Looks like the monaco is 54 cm and the peugeot is 58. I'm 6 foot. The monaco is the one that is actually ridable and I've been fine on that. I got on the chorus at the owners house. I fit well but that's when I noticed the front tube was popped so I got off.
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Old 09-27-22, 04:31 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 1simplexnut View Post
Hiya ,

Looks like an all right deal for $150.00 !

There is probably something missing or loose in the shifter levers . That will make them return when changing .
Maybe pop them off and show us an exploded view of the parts you have ,
Better still locate and use some simplex retrofriction levers .
Work great and appropriate for a Peugeot .
How nasty is that scrape on the downtube by the levers ? Just paint or dent? ( please say no dent)

Go gentle as possible on the stuck stem . Brute force is not your friend ! Especially on 753 tube.

HAve fun with it !
Look forward to updates .

Seems that the shifters were just loose. Tightened them up and now they're working.
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Old 09-28-22, 08:13 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 1simplexnut View Post
...Go gentle as possible on the stuck stem . Brute force is not your friend ! Especially on 753 tube...

This isn't an issue. Reynolds 753 steering columns are no thinner than any other steering column, as the outer diameter is standarized to accommodate the headset threading and the inner dimeter is standardized to accommodate the stem quill. Also, Reynolds 753 fork baldes use the same gauge material as Reynolda 531, so there aren't any special precautions just because its 753. .


However, it sounds like the OP is relatively inexperienced with bicycle servicing, so I wonder if he didn't realize that he needed to tap the head of the expnder bolt with a hammer to drive the expander cone/wedge out of the bottom of the quill, after he loosened the expander bolt by a few turns?
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Old 09-28-22, 09:44 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by DaCox View Post
The back left drop out is maybe slightly bent? Idk let me know.
What makes you think it's bent? It's not obvious from the pictures.

Anyways I am glad you got the bike. As long as it's not rusted through or dented, cosmetics can be touched up and stickers can be replaced.
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Old 09-28-22, 06:27 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by T-Mar View Post
This isn't an issue. Reynolds 753 steering columns are no thinner than any other steering column, as the outer diameter is standarized to accommodate the headset threading and the inner dimeter is standardized to accommodate the stem quill. Also, Reynolds 753 fork baldes use the same gauge material as Reynolda 531, so there aren't any special precautions just because its 753. .


However, it sounds like the OP is relatively inexperienced with bicycle servicing, so I wonder if he didn't realize that he needed to tap the head of the expnder bolt with a hammer to drive the expander cone/wedge out of the bottom of the quill, after he loosened the expander bolt by a few turns?

HI T-Mar ,

Yep I know what you are saying . I just had a mental image of the frame being swung on while stem /fork clamped up .
I saw a frame not that long ago that was knackered by exactly that ( vitus980 not 753 )

My comment was more about getting the OP to go gently at it .
cheers
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Old 10-01-22, 07:44 AM
  #32  
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One more thought, I’ve read that you can not spread the rear axle on 753 frame sets. Very nice bike. Just my thoughts.
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Old 10-01-22, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by santa fe 2926 View Post
One more thought, Iíve read that you can not spread the rear axle on 753 frame sets. Very nice bike. Just my thoughts.
You'd be surprised how not easy it is to cold set the rear triangle of a frameset, even if it's not made with 753, heat treated tubing. Chainstays and seatstays might look wimpy with their small diameters, but they are quite stiff even if made with less expensive carbon steel tubing like Peugeot's Carbolite 103.
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Old 10-01-22, 08:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by T-Mar View Post
However, it sounds like the OP is relatively inexperienced with bicycle servicing, so I wonder if he didn't realize that he needed to tap the head of the expnder bolt with a hammer to drive the expander cone/wedge out of the bottom of the quill, after he loosened the expander bolt by a few turns?
After unscrewing the expander bolt, the expander cone/ wedge fell out. Went to the bicycle co-op today and the people work there recommended that I pour ammonia into it.

Last edited by DaCox; 10-01-22 at 08:18 PM. Reason: added photos
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Old 10-02-22, 04:48 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by DaCox View Post





After unscrewing the expander bolt, the expander cone/ wedge fell out. Went to the bicycle co-op today and the people work there recommended that I pour ammonia into it.

Darn. The expander bolt disintegrated. Do you have a picture of the rest of the bolt?

You might also try Kroil.

Problem is the Aluminum Oxide deposits are not rust...
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Old 10-02-22, 08:03 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Chombi1 View Post
You'd be surprised how not easy it is to cold set the rear triangle of a frameset, even if it's not made with 753, heat treated tubing. Chainstays and seatstays might look wimpy with their small diameters, but they are quite stiff even if made with less expensive carbon steel tubing like Peugeot's Carbolite 103.
this from Cycling UK, 2014,
From someone asking the same question elsewhere:

"I contacted Bob Jackson's & Brian Rourke's this morning; they both told me that 753R cannot be cold set. Bob Jackson's said that some 753 frames were built with 531 stays and could be cold set, but if a frame is made entirely from 753 it cannot be coldset. Both also said that it would be wrong to try to force-fit a 130mm rear wheel to fit, since the frame would be in a 'state of tension' and would be more likely to fail."
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Old 10-02-22, 01:29 PM
  #37  
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Bummer the stem is stuck. Maybe the headset top nut can be loosened, and the then the bearings could be repacked, and ride with the stem frozen as is. In the bike mechanics forum, the stem was cut off, and the fork removed, then put into a container of lye, which ate all the aluminum away from the steel. Then all you need is a new stem with same measurements (22.2, or old French 22.0), and Bob’s your uncle! Good luck.
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Old 10-02-22, 02:14 PM
  #38  
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Nice purchase !!!

You will need a new chain as well.

Chain rings look in nice shape!!

But you can carefully see small gaps as the chain sits on the chain rings.

You can buy a chain checker ( under $10.00) to make sure.

Congrats and take your time. I know you are excited , as I would/am be, but be patient.

Spray some rust remover where the stem is and let it sit for a day.

Then, like others have said, pound the bolt with a hammer. Start with " soft" blows and work your way up in small increments.

I have had stuck stems and this has always worked. I have not had a 753 frame to do this, so do not know if this would be too much for it.

If it was my bike, and I am OCD, I would attempt this.

Good Luck !!
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Old 10-02-22, 06:51 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc View Post
Darn. The expander bolt disintegrated. Do you have a picture of the rest of the bolt?

You might also try Kroil.

Problem is the Aluminum Oxide deposits are not rust...
The bolts fine. I think the expander was just a conical wedge and not angled like some others.
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Old 10-06-22, 06:45 PM
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Got it. It honestly doesnít look that rusted or corroded. I donít know why it was such a pain in the ass to remove. Took 2.5 hr to get it out. I let it soak in ammonia for 2 days but when I came back the ammonia seemed to have leaked out. Tried turning it but nothing. Then I just started applying lubricant and pounding away and slowly it came out.
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Old 10-09-22, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by DaCox View Post
Got it. It honestly doesnít look that rusted or corroded. I donít know why it was such a pain in the ass to remove. Took 2.5 hr to get it out. I let it soak in ammonia for 2 days but when I came back the ammonia seemed to have leaked out. Tried turning it but nothing. Then I just started applying lubricant and pounding away and slowly it came out.
Excellent news !!!!
Thanks for the update
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Old 10-10-22, 04:41 PM
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Any suggestions on cleaning the head tube and fork? Head tube is super rusted. Edit: actually its not even that rusted. Why the hell was the stem so hard to remove?


Last edited by DaCox; 10-10-22 at 06:45 PM. Reason: added photos
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Old 10-10-22, 05:05 PM
  #43  
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Not so much rust, just the aluminum bonding to metal, grease those stems and seat posts.
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Old 10-10-22, 07:29 PM
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Will do.
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Old 10-12-22, 06:59 PM
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This might not be popular for a vintage bike thread but any opinion on a newer group set I should/could get for this frame? Shimano or sram? Iíve been looking into them and dang are they expensive. Would there be any compatibility problems?
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Old 10-12-22, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DaCox View Post
This might not be popular for a vintage bike thread but any opinion on a newer group set I should/could get for this frame? Shimano or sram? Iíve been looking into them and dang are they expensive. Would there be any compatibility problems?
The minor issues you will encounter are:
1. The 126mm rear spacing- which means you will have to run a Shimano hub with a 7 speed freehub body. Or alternatively a freewheel hub with a 7 speed freewheel.
2. The nutted brakes. Modern groupsets all use recessed bolts. Luckily you can get Tektro dual pivot brakes with nutted mounting.
3. if this bike has a French bottom bracket you would have to run a sq taper BB . In other words you wonít be able to use the latest external bearing hollow tech type crankset. No big loss.
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Old 10-13-22, 10:05 AM
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The back tire came with an 8 speed freewheel on it. It fits.
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Old 10-13-22, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by DaCox View Post
The back tire came with an 8 speed freewheel on it. It fits.
Interesting. Measure the rear dropouts- see if they are 130mm. If they are then that makes things easier.
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Old 10-13-22, 12:23 PM
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I'm going to have to wait till i get off work in about 3 hr. don't know what time zone you're in but that will be

5pm for me. Here's a picture on my phone i had of the bike tire.

Last edited by DaCox; 10-14-22 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 10-13-22, 09:46 PM
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Yeah its 126 mm. would a shimano claris r2000 set work? Not full group set probably just rear derailleur and shifters and maybe switch to a 8 speed cassette. Are moderen 8 speed cassette wheels 130mm or 126 mm. Or can i find a wheel with a 8 speed cassette at 126 mm.


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