Drilling out a riveted crankset to replace the rings?
11-29-20, 05:48 PM
#1
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Drilling out a riveted crankset to replace the rings?
Occupational hazard right now is surfing ebay on my phone. I bought this crankset assuming it had bolted on 94 BCD rings. I just opened the package and realized it is actually riveted together.
What are the chances I can drill the rivets and use chainring bolts to hold on the replacement chainrings? I'm not realy concerned with the inner chain ring.
What are the chances I can drill the rivets and use chainring bolts to hold on the replacement chainrings? I'm not realy concerned with the inner chain ring.
11-29-20, 06:08 PM
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I would be concerned about finding ring bolts that would fit properly. That said, I really don't know but I do know that not all bolts fit all crank/ring assemblies.
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11-29-20, 06:08 PM
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They chances are good - if
a) you can get bolts to fit; and
b) you know what you are doing.
To help with b) above -
Get a drill-press (or a friend with a drill-press) and use it. Clamp the part well, you don't want those teeth suddenly spinning where your forearm used to be. If the rivet spins before the drill-bit takes the head off, mount another bit underneath and place the back side of the rivet on the up-ended bit.
For a) you'll have to get at least one of them out so you can measure.
a) you can get bolts to fit; and
b) you know what you are doing.
To help with b) above -
Get a drill-press (or a friend with a drill-press) and use it. Clamp the part well, you don't want those teeth suddenly spinning where your forearm used to be. If the rivet spins before the drill-bit takes the head off, mount another bit underneath and place the back side of the rivet on the up-ended bit.
For a) you'll have to get at least one of them out so you can measure.
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11-29-20, 06:24 PM
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feros ferio
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Editorial: I hate rivets and components designed not to be repairable.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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11-29-20, 06:45 PM
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Yeah, with a drill press it's likely an easy job, and I'd imagine those chainrings could be fitted with standard chainring bolts or, if you're going with new rings, the spider will take standard bolts.
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11-29-20, 06:55 PM
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Looking at it I should be able just grind the heads off and skip the drilling. Its a $20 question as that's all I'd get back after shipping them back. I guess there's reasonable odds that Suntour used standard size bolt holes in the spider.
And on further inspection, its a no go. The big 94 bcd ring is riveted to the middle ring. rats
And on further inspection, its a no go. The big 94 bcd ring is riveted to the middle ring. rats
Last edited by bark_eater; 11-30-20 at 02:02 AM.
11-29-20, 09:14 PM
#8
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It has been a personal dream of mine for over two decades to drill out the crappy rivets on stamped cranksets. (I used to have a beautiful Schwinn World with a stamped crankset that made me angry). GO FOR IT!!!!!!. DO IT for all of the rest of us that always wanted to try but never had the time or patience. Post the results here on the forums. I will cheer you on!!! You can get chain ring bolt sets on ebay for pretty cheap. But, that might not fit right. Could be that some plain old little bitty nuts & bolts from the hardware store might work. Please try & let me know how it works out.
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11-30-20, 03:28 AM
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Looking at it I should be able just grind the heads off and skip the drilling. Its a $20 question as that's all I'd get back after shipping them back. I guess there's reasonable odds that Suntour used standard size bolt holes in the spider.
And on further inspection, its a no go. The big 94 bcd ring is riveted to the middle ring. rats
And on further inspection, its a no go. The big 94 bcd ring is riveted to the middle ring. rats
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11-30-20, 12:40 PM
#10
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It has been a personal dream of mine for over two decades to drill out the crappy rivets on stamped cranksets. (I used to have a beautiful Schwinn World with a stamped crankset that made me angry). GO FOR IT!!!!!!. DO IT for all of the rest of us that always wanted to try but never had the time or patience. Post the results here on the forums. I will cheer you on!!! You can get chain ring bolt sets on ebay for pretty cheap. But, that might not fit right. Could be that some plain old little bitty nuts & bolts from the hardware store might work. Please try & let me know how it works out.
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11-30-20, 12:54 PM
#11
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I suspect it would be more trouble than it is worth. Considering the cost of individual rings and the potential for unforeseen difficulties, I think replacing the whole crank would be a better solution. If you have access to a bike co-op, you could probably pick up a used crank for not much money.
11-30-20, 01:22 PM
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feros ferio
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Drill, baby, drill!
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
11-30-20, 01:23 PM
#13
feros ferio
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I have de-riveted and de-screwed a number of cassette spiders to facilitate my penchant for gear phreaking.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
12-01-20, 04:09 AM
#14
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Check the BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter) of the chain-ring you are hoping to use.The measurements are very precise and no amount of sweat can get the wrong BCD spider to fit an incompatible chain-ring. Better still go to co-op get a battered old crank of the correct BCD that is solid and put your desired chain-ring on it.
12-01-20, 05:15 AM
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I've removed riveted chain rings from a couple of old mountain bikes.
The rings...like yours...were steel and not badly worn.
Just clamping the crank in a vise, and using 1/4 drill was sufficient to leave one swaged ring.
Removing two steel rings saved weight and looked better to my eyes.
Then you can address gearing at the rear hub.
These were old bikes with horizontal drop outs, which was perfect for durable one speeds.
My grand kids use them to ride to the beach. Durable and cheap.
I know this doesn't address your exact question, but you've got some usable parts.
The rings...like yours...were steel and not badly worn.
Just clamping the crank in a vise, and using 1/4 drill was sufficient to leave one swaged ring.
Removing two steel rings saved weight and looked better to my eyes.
Then you can address gearing at the rear hub.
These were old bikes with horizontal drop outs, which was perfect for durable one speeds.
My grand kids use them to ride to the beach. Durable and cheap.
I know this doesn't address your exact question, but you've got some usable parts.
09-29-21, 03:24 PM
#16
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Just wanted to follow up on this. I just destroyed one of these cranks trying to get it apart. I ended up snapping one of the bolt arms off the crank. From what I can tell the the middle and granny ring that are separately riveted to the crank are necessary to back up the 94 BCD outer arms. I'm sure I could do a less destructive disassembly the second time but I don't think I'd trust the arms. I also got to take apart another low end steel ring SR 94 BCD crank with bolted rings, but a couple of the arms were cracked at the bolt holes, so I'm not thinking that low end 94 BCD cranksets are worth messing with.
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