The Water Cooler, Scuttlebutt, Chit Chat Thread
#1377
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Talked to a hiring manager at Trek yesterday..just got an email from their recruiter this morning asking me when I can come to Waterloo for an in person interview!
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My power meter pod snapped during my ride. I guess when your wattage goes so high the electronics just blow up. On the positive side not using a power meter burns 50% more calories, so its McDonald's tonight!
I overnighted a replacement and got these excerpts in the email:
Delivery Method
Next Business Day
and in fine print on the bottom....
Delivery Message
Most deliveries will arrive within 11-16 business days of order receipt however, it can sometimes take longer. If your order does not arrive within this timeframe, please be patient as shipping times are an estimate and may vary based on your location.
What year is this 2004? Anyway I called Garmin and its being shipped.
I overnighted a replacement and got these excerpts in the email:
Delivery Method
Next Business Day
and in fine print on the bottom....
Delivery Message
Most deliveries will arrive within 11-16 business days of order receipt however, it can sometimes take longer. If your order does not arrive within this timeframe, please be patient as shipping times are an estimate and may vary based on your location.
What year is this 2004? Anyway I called Garmin and its being shipped.
#1382
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Needs some re-taping, some small tuning (wheels) and I think she'll be about 16 lbs.
Junior has good MASI feelings.
EmilycxMASI.jpg
Junior has good MASI feelings.
EmilycxMASI.jpg
#1384
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Oct 17th is my interview, driving up on the 16th and Trek is paying for me to stay here...
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Needs some re-taping, some small tuning (wheels) and I think she'll be about 16 lbs.
Junior has good MASI feelings.
Attachment 583364
Junior has good MASI feelings.
Attachment 583364
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As <12 is for the road. I like light.
A bit why I'm anti disc for road. It is nice stuff, if you like using brakes. I get 2x expected life on my car brakes cause I don't use them much. Big fat me and junior don't use them on bikes, so not needed, but as everyone has discs in cx, we just copy. Easy wheel, seat and small part weight savings.
Turns out is it this bike - not model - that bike. The one in the photo shoot.
https://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gea...st-look-50793/
A bit why I'm anti disc for road. It is nice stuff, if you like using brakes. I get 2x expected life on my car brakes cause I don't use them much. Big fat me and junior don't use them on bikes, so not needed, but as everyone has discs in cx, we just copy. Easy wheel, seat and small part weight savings.
Turns out is it this bike - not model - that bike. The one in the photo shoot.
https://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gea...st-look-50793/
Last edited by Doge; 10-04-17 at 08:47 PM.
#1389
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As <12 is for the road. I like light.
A bit why I'm anti disc for road. It is nice stuff, if you like using brakes. I get 2x expected life on my car brakes cause I don't use them much. Big fat me and junior don't use them on bikes, so not needed, but as everyone has discs in cx, we just copy. Easy wheel, seat and small part weight savings.
Turns out is it this bike - not model - that bike. The one in the photo shoot.
The 2018 Masi CXRC is dipped in unicorn's blood - BikeRadar USA
A bit why I'm anti disc for road. It is nice stuff, if you like using brakes. I get 2x expected life on my car brakes cause I don't use them much. Big fat me and junior don't use them on bikes, so not needed, but as everyone has discs in cx, we just copy. Easy wheel, seat and small part weight savings.
Turns out is it this bike - not model - that bike. The one in the photo shoot.
The 2018 Masi CXRC is dipped in unicorn's blood - BikeRadar USA
Also, frames and forks are a bit beefier to accommodate the discs.
I'm not at all a fan on the road for racing (unnecessary IMO); for cross and off-road applications, i find discs to be a bit better. Also, instead of grinding dirt/mud/grit into your expensive carbon rim, you wear down the rotor. You don't lose braking ability *during* a CX race. Not as light, but I think this is one area that can enable a rider to go faster.
I don't know if I ever got my cross bikes under 17.00 (with pedals), even though the are 1x. I use pretty solid bars & stem (PRO Vibe), and I know the paint job on my frames is +100, 150g; they are Di2 bikes, which I also think makes quite a bit of sense for off-road applications/mud. I'd even suggest going with an XTR RD (clutch), though that's another weight penalty + a little friction.
Realize that if your boy races in the mud, the N/W profile of that single ring will not keep the chain on the bike. A clutch RD is good as a minimum -- or inner catcher + outer guide. Or at least recognize it's a risk.
Narrow-wide rings aren't the only thing one needs in the mud to keep the chain on, unfortunately.
#1390
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The Shimano hydraulic brifters are HEAVY -- even the di2 ones. It's immediately apparent when you take them out of the box; they feel like bricks.
Also, frames and forks are a bit beefier to accommodate the discs.
I'm not at all a fan on the road for racing (unnecessary IMO); for cross and off-road applications, i find discs to be a bit better. Also, instead of grinding dirt/mud/grit into your expensive carbon rim, you wear down the rotor. You don't lose braking ability *during* a CX race. Not as light, but I think this is one area that can enable a rider to go faster.
I don't know if I ever got my cross bikes under 17.00 (with pedals), even though the are 1x. I use pretty solid bars & stem (PRO Vibe), and I know the paint job on my frames is +100, 150g; they are Di2 bikes, which I also think makes quite a bit of sense for off-road applications/mud. I'd even suggest going with an XTR RD (clutch), though that's another weight penalty + a little friction.
Realize that if your boy races in the mud, the N/W profile of that single ring will not keep the chain on the bike. A clutch RD is good as a minimum -- or inner catcher + outer guide. Or at least recognize it's a risk.
Narrow-wide rings aren't the only thing one needs in the mud to keep the chain on, unfortunately.
Also, frames and forks are a bit beefier to accommodate the discs.
I'm not at all a fan on the road for racing (unnecessary IMO); for cross and off-road applications, i find discs to be a bit better. Also, instead of grinding dirt/mud/grit into your expensive carbon rim, you wear down the rotor. You don't lose braking ability *during* a CX race. Not as light, but I think this is one area that can enable a rider to go faster.
I don't know if I ever got my cross bikes under 17.00 (with pedals), even though the are 1x. I use pretty solid bars & stem (PRO Vibe), and I know the paint job on my frames is +100, 150g; they are Di2 bikes, which I also think makes quite a bit of sense for off-road applications/mud. I'd even suggest going with an XTR RD (clutch), though that's another weight penalty + a little friction.
Realize that if your boy races in the mud, the N/W profile of that single ring will not keep the chain on the bike. A clutch RD is good as a minimum -- or inner catcher + outer guide. Or at least recognize it's a risk.
Narrow-wide rings aren't the only thing one needs in the mud to keep the chain on, unfortunately.
I'm in for less than what I could sell it all for in march. So I want to see how it goes. Unlike road racing, 50th or 100th is no big deal in Reno. It feels like Strava...just for fun and nothing matters except trips and fun. I'm sure that is a lie at some level, but I'm going with it. Based on demonstrated ability new toys will be bought, or not MASI had a picture of him in the lobby, so made this easy. And he truly loves them.
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I'd tend to doubt it but don't know for sure.
Di2 is super nice for cross. Any situation where you might have mud/dirt but still need perfect shifts is a sweet-spot.
6 wheel sets? Personally, I'd say invest in the 2nd frame instead of 2-3 of those wheel sets. Running a more aggressive tire won't materially hurt him in dry conditions/grass, but running a less aggressive tire will be a serious hindrance in wet/mud, esp for a rider like him coming from the road / without major MTB skills.
That's cool!
They couldn't kick a 2nd frame and fewer wheels? I truly feel that will be a MUCH, much bigger deal, esp if it is wet/muddy.
Originally Posted by doge
Tire choices, again, but looks like he'll have both. We now have 6 wheel sets in the works. The clutched RD sounds important. Not Di2, now. Kinda bummed.
6 wheel sets? Personally, I'd say invest in the 2nd frame instead of 2-3 of those wheel sets. Running a more aggressive tire won't materially hurt him in dry conditions/grass, but running a less aggressive tire will be a serious hindrance in wet/mud, esp for a rider like him coming from the road / without major MTB skills.
Originally Posted by doge
I'm in for less than what I could sell it all for in march.
Originally Posted by doge
So I want to see how it goes. Unlike road racing, 50th or 100th is no big deal in Reno. It feels like Strava...just for fun and nothing matters except trips and fun. I'm sure that is a lie at some level, but I'm going with it. Based on demonstrated ability new toys will be bought, or not MASI had a picture of him in the lobby, so made this easy. And he truly loves them.
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PS I just looked up my spreadsheet for my SW Crux build: 17.2#.
I happen to be building a Tarmac now, and the frame itself (both 56cm) is 400g heavier. The fork is nearly 200g heavier. The brake calipers don't weigh that much more than road calipers (+50g per side), while the brifters are nearly 300g heavier.
Compared to a set of 404 tubulars with decent road tires, 303 disc tubulars with nice FMBs are +600g.
All told, that's about +1.6kg, or 3.5# heavier -- less a bit for a FD and small chainring (~150g).
My drivetrain, seat posts, saddle, stem and bars are pretty much the same for road and cross.
A CruX pro is a little heavier... 100, 150g. Part of the difference between the Tarmac and CruX weight difference is that my Tarmac is matte black and the CruX has a super-cool-but-heavy glossy paint job that involves laying down primer and adding clear-coat. Paint jobs on some bikes can add 200g.
I happen to be building a Tarmac now, and the frame itself (both 56cm) is 400g heavier. The fork is nearly 200g heavier. The brake calipers don't weigh that much more than road calipers (+50g per side), while the brifters are nearly 300g heavier.
Compared to a set of 404 tubulars with decent road tires, 303 disc tubulars with nice FMBs are +600g.
All told, that's about +1.6kg, or 3.5# heavier -- less a bit for a FD and small chainring (~150g).
My drivetrain, seat posts, saddle, stem and bars are pretty much the same for road and cross.
A CruX pro is a little heavier... 100, 150g. Part of the difference between the Tarmac and CruX weight difference is that my Tarmac is matte black and the CruX has a super-cool-but-heavy glossy paint job that involves laying down primer and adding clear-coat. Paint jobs on some bikes can add 200g.
#1393
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He now has 2 bikes without touching them in the ~18 and change range. Just a few things to make both ~17 range. Padding on seats is pretty useless with modern shorts. I'd prefer the weight goes on he bike and off the shorts, but I can't buy that way. I do think the equipment matters, but I also think I can look, question and guess how much. So if he turns a 67th place, or DNFs, I think I could guess what 2lbs lighter and cool stuff would do just watching relative performance. It is certainly not physics, it is the whole thing.
#1394
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PS I just looked up my spreadsheet for my SW Crux build: 17.2#.
I happen to be building a Tarmac now, and the frame itself (both 56cm) is 400g heavier. The fork is nearly 200g heavier. The brake calipers don't weigh that much more than road calipers (+50g per side), while the brifters are nearly 300g heavier.
Compared to a set of 404 tubulars with decent road tires, 303 disc tubulars with nice FMBs are +600g.
All told, that's about +1.6kg, or 3.5# heavier -- less a bit for a FD and small chainring (~150g).
My drivetrain, seat posts, saddle, stem and bars are pretty much the same for road and cross.
A CruX pro is a little heavier... 100, 150g. Part of the difference between the Tarmac and CruX weight difference is that my Tarmac is matte black and the CruX has a super-cool-but-heavy glossy paint job that involves laying down primer and adding clear-coat. Paint jobs on some bikes can add 200g.
I happen to be building a Tarmac now, and the frame itself (both 56cm) is 400g heavier. The fork is nearly 200g heavier. The brake calipers don't weigh that much more than road calipers (+50g per side), while the brifters are nearly 300g heavier.
Compared to a set of 404 tubulars with decent road tires, 303 disc tubulars with nice FMBs are +600g.
All told, that's about +1.6kg, or 3.5# heavier -- less a bit for a FD and small chainring (~150g).
My drivetrain, seat posts, saddle, stem and bars are pretty much the same for road and cross.
A CruX pro is a little heavier... 100, 150g. Part of the difference between the Tarmac and CruX weight difference is that my Tarmac is matte black and the CruX has a super-cool-but-heavy glossy paint job that involves laying down primer and adding clear-coat. Paint jobs on some bikes can add 200g.
FWIW - I'm saying this more as a professional in the mfg/tech marketing space. There is work to be done.
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In other news, I finished reading The Grapes of Wrath last night. I think it took me about six months - I read a few "fun" books in between.
I know I was supposed to read it in High School, but I probably just bought the Cliff Notes. It was certainly a long read, and at points very engrossing, at other points, not so much.
I know I was supposed to read it in High School, but I probably just bought the Cliff Notes. It was certainly a long read, and at points very engrossing, at other points, not so much.
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Thanks. I was hoping to get an idea by the weather report. That is good news. I heard some are wet down. That may be MTB, or cross - I forgot.