Owen21

So after using the track lately I don't want to continue using their bikes. Question is...is my bianchi pista good enough for a beginners track bike? up to a racing level.

Kayce

Your pista will be just fine for entry level racing. You will most definitely change your gearing around to something more race appropriate
.

Brian Ratliff

My first couple years were on a Raleigh Rush Hour (similar to the Bianchi Pista; budget track frame built up originally as a fixed gear street bike). I didn't upgrade until I was a 2. There are better bikes and you'll want to upgrade at some point, but it'll work just fine to get you into the elites. Just start changing parts out as you start getting dissatisfied. Then, when you are ready to upgrade, you can just swap all your upgraded parts to a new frame. Track is great that way - a lot fewer parts on the bikes and not too many compatibility problems. Just get onto 144mm BCD cranks and 1/8" chain as soon as you are able (usually the budget bikes have 130mm BCD cranks and 3/32" chain, both of which make it hard to find good quality compatible chains, chainrings and cogs).

Talking about gearing, you'll want a 48 or 49 tooth chainring and a flip-flop hub with a 16 tooth cog on one side (for warmup) and a 15 tooth cog (for racing) on the other. You might want new tires that aren't cut up from road riding too. Flats on the track are... not good.

noglider 

Thanks for the complete response, @MarkWW.

I've been to t-town as a spectator. I also tried the track on my road bike when it was empty. I'm aware of the many differences. Kissena may not be a great track, but it's our track, so I have an affection for it anyway.

Owen21

Thank you I'll get tires first I think and stick with the current 48/16 I have. Then change the cranks afterwards.

carleton

When you get tires, make sure to get cloth rim tape. This will keep spoke nipples from poking through and piercing the tire. I use cloth rim tape on all clincher rims (road or track bikes).

Owen21

Will do Carleton, cheers again

stupid question of the day i have a flip flop hub, i can only use a 1 sided, fixed wheel on the track, so can i just remove the freewheel (or get my LBS to) and leave the fixed side as is?

slindell

You can use a flip flop hub single sided.

carleton

Yes. You don't *have* to remove the freewheel. Like if you plan to use the bike on the street later. But, as you know, you can never use the freewheel side while on the track.

Or, you can just remove the freewheel to remove extra weight and/or to put it on another wheel.

700wheel

USA Cycling Rule 1I3(a) does permit single speed freewheels at certain times for certain events (page 37 of the 2014 rule book). However in my opinion it is best to always use a fixed gear on the track.

What annoys me is that I am not allowed to use a fixed gear in road individual time trials by BRAC despite the fact the rule book (rule 3E2) permits it.

Owen21

Awesome. Just looking at the track specification for my track it says no double sided hub with a freewheel. So I'll just take it off for peace of mind whether that means using a freewheel or just having one on the non-use side who knows.

carleton

Ah...rules.

Yeah, you are right.

brawlo

Strange rules, but rules are rules and I guess they're there for a valid reason........ unless they come from the UCI.....

aaronmcd

Hey, I never visit this subforum, but a friend just gave me a track bike (she hasn't used it since 2006). Tires still good, just got them re-glued. But I don't know anything about track bikes. I'm sure I can search and read, and most likely will, but if anyone can answer a couple questions it would be nice.

First, the chain. It seems it's necessary to break the chain every time the cog is switched. I'm wondering if the pins I have will work on a track chain - like, are pins one size fits all? My road bike is 10 speed. EDIT: jk, I'm dumb. I can slide the rear wheel forward to put the chain on, then slide it back and tighten.

Second, the bike has no lockring (the shop informed me, I would not have noticed). Is a lockring necessary for the track?

carleton

You can get a lockring for $10 new at any fixie shop. Get a dura ace lockring (assuming your wheel isn't Campy or Mavic). I suggest you use one. I have spun cogs off before when backpedaling in a match sprint. I've seen others do it, too.

700wheel

If you select the correct chain length it should fit all your chainring/sprocket combinations. Most riders use 1/8" chains and a removable link. A 10 speed chain pin will not fit a 1/8" chain. On my bike, and our rental bikes, to remove a wheel I slide the wheel forward then slip the chain off the chainring.

derek.fulmer

Looking at Deda pista bars. I imagine it's largely personal preference, but should I look at 42 or 40cm?

carleton

It's personal preference, but on one rides 42s anymore. 40s or smaller.

gtrob

As long as its a true track bike with proper dropouts (long). Ive seen a couple 'street' fixed gears that are very short, likely as they are not changing cogs ever, so you probably lose a bit of flexibility with those.

Makes me wonder though, as anyone seen the new TT bikes like the P3 up close? They run the rear tire INSANELY close, like barely fit a credit card through close, and I assume its for aerodynamics. This doesn't seem very possible on a track bike unless you plan to break your chain every time.

slindell

If you really want it that close you can remove the chain ring to get the wheel on and off. But besides being a lot of work there is some thought that the small space causes drag from the wheel dragging air through a tight gap so it may cost more than it saves on the outer flow.

700wheel

Or deflate the tire - that is what I have had to do sometimes on my E. G. Bates frame from the mid-1980s which has 1-5/8" drop outs but short chain stays. I sometimes wonder if the frame was not built to accommodate a 700 wheel (perhaps 27")

wens

I wonder if anyone has evaluated wheel/frame gap at ero or similar. I bet it's frame specific, and I wouldn't be surprised if it depends on the tire as well. I suspect there's less penalty being too close than there is too far, but I have so many things that are lower hanging fruit that I'm not going to give it any more thought right now.

derek.fulmer

My new Look 464 came with an all carbon fork, carbon steerer as well. Should I opt for something else with an aluminum steerer? I'm only trying to think long term on the amount of force being put down on the bars/stem/steerer while sprinting. I'm not THAT strong, but I'm pretty heavy and can put pressure down when needed.

gtrob

Its fine. Just about every decent bike comes with carbon forks now. They are bulky, strong, not even that light, and can take more force than you can give.

Brian Ratliff

Man... I can't remember the last time I used a lock ring at the track.