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Bike Flipping 101

Old 01-26-09, 06:12 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by wrk101
I just picked up white lined cable jacket, 50 feet of it, for $5 at Niagara.
!!!!

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Old 01-26-09, 06:15 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by sonatageek
Wondering what the best places are to buy quality cables, housing and bearings? I know where to find cheap tires, tubes, brake shoes and bar wrap. I have used the cheap Walmart cable sets a few times and want something better than that to use, even on the bikes that are flippers.
I bought 10 more sets from PBK for 9.81 each. Each set includes brake cables, shifter cables, housing, ferrules and caps. They're often out of stock, but they'll send you a reminder when they come in. They work just fine. Can't hardly go wrong for $10/bike all cables. They work with STI's, Ergos, and all DT shifters, so far as I've used 'em. I like the grey the best. They've had 'em in white, grey, and black.
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Old 01-26-09, 06:50 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
I bought 10 more sets from PBK for 9.81 each. Each set includes brake cables, shifter cables, housing, ferrules and caps. They're often out of stock, but they'll send you a reminder when they come in. They work just fine. Can't hardly go wrong for $10/bike all cables. They work with STI's, Ergos, and all DT shifters, so far as I've used 'em. I like the grey the best. They've had 'em in white, grey, and black.
So they are good quality cable and housing? I ask, because the Walmart stuff seems to fray pretty easily when cut (yes the cutter was sharp and did not have the same effect on a nice stainless cable that I tried after the first one sort of 'unwound' a bit) and the lined housing seemed weak.

I already buy stuff Niagara and just ordered some bar wrap from PBK. I was looking at the cable sets, but was unsure and didn't.
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Old 01-26-09, 07:06 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by sonatageek
So they are good quality cable and housing? I ask, because the Walmart stuff seems to fray pretty easily when cut (yes the cutter was sharp and did not have the same effect on a nice stainless cable that I tried after the first one sort of 'unwound' a bit) and the lined housing seemed weak.

I already buy stuff Niagara and just ordered some bar wrap from PBK. I was looking at the cable sets, but was unsure and didn't.
I cut mine with a Dremel tool. Definitely not the WalMart stuff. The shifter housing is 4mm and the cable is smaller. The brake housing is 5mm and the cable is bigger. The brake cables are sort of pre-cut, so you want to make sure you're not using the rear to do the front, as it's about half as long. The kit includes a RD cable in the 4mm size, too. I like to use a looser RD housing, so I used excess cut from the rear brake cable housing.

I've found little difference with it in installing, it's not as slick and lubed as the Jagwire or Shimano sets I've used, but then again, it's 1/3 the cost.

I put a set on my 1983 Centurion Turbo with Shimano RSX STI's, and this afternoon, another set on my 1988 Centurion Ironman Carbon with Campagnolo Chorus Ergo's. Both mounted just fine. Make sure you're using the right ends, and don't cut off the end you need. (Been there, done that)

I also wrapped my Ironman in some 2.99 wrap from PBK, the blue/yellow cork. It went OK, the stuff is comparable to other cork, no problem. I used it because it was cheap, and I'm likely to swap it out next year by this time, if I change tire color, etc. That's my gig.
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Old 02-08-09, 03:51 PM
  #55  
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Cables tip

I live in Portland OR, and I got my cables at Fred Meyer. I know, I know, shopping at a box store but the deal was just too good to pass up. Cables and housing for both brakes and both derailleurs.... 6.99. Cant beat it with a stick.
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Old 02-11-09, 03:38 PM
  #56  
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If I look at a bike that I know is posted by a local flipper or find out the seller is a flipper when I get there, as long as I'm okay with the bike and price otherwise then I just figure the extra money I gave them is like a finder's fee or a birddog fee.
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Old 02-11-09, 05:36 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by treebound
If I look at a bike that I know is posted by a local flipper or find out the seller is a flipper when I get there, as long as I'm okay with the bike and price otherwise then I just figure the extra money I gave them is like a finder's fee or a birddog fee.
There's nothing wrong with paying full 'street' price for a bike if your the end user. Sometimes your better off paying full street value.

I was in local shop today and they charge $300 for a complete tear down and rebuild including bearing repacks. I do that to most of my 'flip bikes' regardless of how much I list them for!!!!

Alot of the others here who flip perform similar service. If the end user isnt into maintenance or a good 'wrench' it could be benificial.
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Old 02-15-09, 12:17 PM
  #58  
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Not much has been said about the donor bike. I recently came across an example. I find entry level road and mountain bikes at yard sales, that's my best source of bikes that can be flipped. Some of the road bikes date back to the 70s when alloy rims were not always found as original equipment. So when I found a $5 Huffy Techtra (attached pics) I grabbed it. For $5, here's what I get, a pair of alloy 27" rims (destined for a Motobecane I've got), a pair of alloy, side pull brakes (probably wind up on ladies roadie I was given), a saddle with no rips (targeted for a mid level rigid fork mountain bike), a chain with almost no miles and no rust (no problem finding a home for a good condition chain), a Shimano rear derailer (for a Schwinn World missing a derailer), and a Custom brand alloy black anodized stem. The rest I'll scrap.
This bike sat through a garage sale with no takers (note the bent stay). A bike like this is a source of low cost raw materials. I did a frame up build, Nishiki Ariel with 80% of the parts coming from donor bikes.
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Old 02-16-09, 11:05 AM
  #59  
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My 2 cents: I am a serious (at least alot of miles) and I've built up a serious madone mainly from parts I get here and there and money I get from sales of parts that don't fit. Its' the only way I can justify carbon frame, bars, crank, stem, Force drivetrain and zero gravity brakes for my 220# body at 20 mph. Often times I need info mostly on older DA and Campy stuff. When I go to the Vintage section I feel bad that I'm talking about a cool bike I want to part or sell rather than keep. I don't flip, parts bring more money than whole bikes nearly 100% of the time. But it would be nice to get comments from those out there that do similiar to what I do.
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Old 02-17-09, 12:06 AM
  #60  
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Flippers drive up prices for everyone else and deny good deals to people who actually want to ride bikes and not make money off them.
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Old 02-17-09, 06:56 AM
  #61  
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If you don't want to go look for a bike and feel it should just be laid at your feet, then that might be true. But you have the same chance at finding a bike as anyone else in here. Get off your duff...
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Old 02-17-09, 07:46 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by kroozer
Flippers drive up prices for everyone else and deny good deals to people who actually want to ride bikes and not make money off them.
B.S. I have bike in my garage that was taken down to the frame. All of the components were removed and cleaned, all of the bearings were repacked and cables and other parts were replaced as needed.

One of the local bike stores charges $300 for that service. I'm selling the bike for $350.

Jim
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Old 02-17-09, 01:59 PM
  #63  
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The rule flippers exist by is the ratio of risk/reward. Stick to the low end and buy bikes that sell or $200/under and the best you'll typically do is _far less than the minimum wage. Probably $4/hour. Every step up in margin *might* glean a better profit (but remember that we're still talking like $10/hour) at the risk of getting stuck with a $500 'investment' that's unsalable for any number of reasons.

If you look at the practice dispassionately, you'll find that flippers are typically doing the world a great service for very little reward, saving graceful bikes from tragic fate, basically for the love of the bikes themselves. Only a wide-eyed optimist could do it as a business.
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Old 02-17-09, 02:58 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by dannyg1
The rule flippers exist by is the ratio of risk/reward. Stick to the low end and buy bikes that sell or $200/under and the best you'll typically do is _far less than the minimum wage. Probably $4/hour. Every step up in margin *might* glean a better profit (but remember that we're still talking like $10/hour) at the risk of getting stuck with a $500 'investment' that's unsalable for any number of reasons.

If you look at the practice dispassionately, you'll find that flippers are typically doing the world a great service for very little reward, saving graceful bikes from tragic fate, basically for the love of the bikes themselves. Only a wide-eyed optimist could do it as a business.
Very well said. I do it because I like the work and seeing the excitement on the face of a happy buyer. I'm not in it for the money, just want to keep these bikes on the road.
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Old 02-27-09, 04:49 PM
  #65  
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I seem to find lots of 70-80's Schwinn Cruisers. Suburban, Tourist, Breeze, etc

What seems to be the going price for these models pre-flip and post flip?

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Old 03-02-09, 06:16 PM
  #66  
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SF craigs, As it is...
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/1056845167.html
Re: Re: Re: used bike prices on CL - $1 (haight ashbury)

Reply to: sale-1056845167@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]
Date: 2009-03-02, 10:36AM PST



The San Francisco Craigslist "experience" is impressive. Daily, there are hundreds of bicycles posted. Some are bargains, some are priced either ignorantly, unrealistically or even criminally. As with many things in life, the more you know about something the better armed you are to not be taken for a ride. heh. Get it? Some bikes are vintage and valuable. Others are simply old and or damaged. How is one to know? If you are unfamiliar, have a knowledgeable friend help. To get a more realistic idea of how bikes should be sold on craigslist, go to a smaller venue like, say, Cincinnati and see how many bikes are offered daily and what they are offered for. The Bay Area is an exception. Everybody uses Craigslist, even criminals. Caveat emptor. Have a nice ride. Peter the vintage three speed guy.
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Old 03-02-09, 06:49 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by kroozer
Flippers drive up prices for everyone else and deny good deals to people who actually want to ride bikes and not make money off them.
I beg to differ, kroozer.

Flippers don't drive up prices, because they buy low. Competition and scarcity drives up prices. Flippers don't compete, and they don't have a lock on all the bikes out there, either. They do their homework, they do the leg work, they do the turnaround work, and add value to the product.

Flippers don't deny good deals to people who actually want to ride bikes. Most flippers I know charge a fair price, and if it doesn't sell, eventually go lower. If a person actually wants to "ride a bike and not make money," that person needs to research the bike he/she wants, do the homework, the legwork, and if they buy low, there's bound to be some turnaround work. It generally involves work.

A "roll ready" bike should cost more, and generally does.

I have bought from BF members who do not flip; they sell what they don't need or doesn't fit.
I have bought from BF members who do flip; I wanted the bike and the price was within my range.

I have flipped three bikes. All were incredibly low to buy and sold for a lot more. I put $200 in parts into one to make it as close to perfect as I could; I "profited" maybe $400. I put about 10 hours and no money into one, made $100. I put about 8 hours into the 3rd, made $55. I've since found out that all three were worth significantly more than I sold them for. Maybe they've even flipped again.

I have sold probably 15-20 others. I've either broken even over the long run, or close enough that I can convince myself I have. No one has been unhappy. I've taken a few back in on trades for others. I've made specific 100% buy-back offers on two, and both were refused. I guess I sold them too low. My bad, but my rep is sterling with those folks, and they've brought buyers by. More buyers, more riders, more fun for everyone.

The market is what it is. The main sellers who aren't making much are low volume small bike shops. If I wanted the best deal on a great bike right now, I'd probably order a new road bike from LBS, pay in advance. I'd probably get it for 15-20% over cost, because he's trying to survive. He does better if I buy the occasional tube, cable, tool, etc.
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Old 03-02-09, 07:22 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
I put about 10 hours and no money into one, made $100. I put about 8 hours into the 3rd, made $55.
Heck that sounds like environmental activism (healthcare activism?) not profiteering.
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Old 03-14-09, 02:35 AM
  #69  
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Performance sometimes has $5 cork bar tape deals.

I try to make not less than $100 on a bike, preferably more. It helps if you can get parts near distributor cost. I have an arrangement with a couple shops where they get me parts at very little mark up. Because of this I can put a new wheelset on a bike and mark it up accordingly, without breaking the bank and nullifying profits, or overpricing the bike.

Since I'm diligent about fully overhauling anything used, putting a new wheelset on a bike saves me some time because i don't have to open the hubs up, and it also looks great with new tires. Makes a great impression. Not to mention that at least 50% of the araya aluminums on most of these bikes are wavy, need retensioning, or are beyond repair. I also offer to build custom wheels as a way to make the bike even nicer, and make some more on it. I'm all about taking old frames and components and making them as nice as they can be within a budget.

As some have mentioned, it definitely pays to buy bulk and get deals in the process. Buy lots of bar tape, cables, tires, etc. I ALWAYS put new tires, cables and housing, and bar tape on a bike. I ALWAYS overhaul the headset, and either overhaul the bb, or plug in a cartridge. If the wheels are used, they get overhauled and tensioned. If new, just adjusted and tensioned.
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Old 03-14-09, 02:53 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by wrk101
One last tip for selling on Craigs List. First, you must know your market well and the market value of your bike. Once you do, sell it close, maybe slightly below market. If you live in a smaller area like I do, do not be surprised if the bike does not sell quickly.
I would add that you need to specifically know YOUR market. If your market is ebay, fine, get to know it.

If your market is Craigslist, you'll find that a rebuilt road bike will go for more in Chicago than it will in Bum Bel*****, Arkansas. I've considered going out to places like that to BUY bikes to rebuild and sell in Chicago. Prices for rebuilt bikes in Chicago are going up with demand, so be aware of changes in your market.
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Old 03-14-09, 06:19 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by krems81
so be aware of changes in your market.
Tampas market has plummeted off a clif. The bike supply has dried up and we have at least 50 guys who peruse the CL listing looking for flippers. There are at least 4 who place WTB ads on CL!!!

Who knows how many are hitting the garage sales which is something I have little desire to do.

Jim
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Old 03-14-09, 07:11 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by miamijim
Tampas market has plummeted off a clif. The bike supply has dried up and we have at least 50 guys who peruse the CL listing looking for flippers.
Then there must be 50 guys who tried to get these

https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/bik/1072901464.html
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Old 03-23-09, 09:33 AM
  #73  
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Do you post internationally? I just posted a frame, forks and headset to japan (6kg?) and it cost me 75 euros. I thought it would cost 32 euros .... big loss! Is there a way to keep cost down or is it just not a good idea?
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Old 03-30-09, 09:13 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by prettyshady
Do you post internationally? I just posted a frame, forks and headset to japan (6kg?) and it cost me 75 euros. I thought it would cost 32 euros .... big loss! Is there a way to keep cost down or is it just not a good idea?
I don't see where you shipped from but from the US I just did a set of wheels to New Zealand. I recall the weight was about 6-7 kg. I found Fedex, my regular big box shipped was silly expensive. The USPS was about $35 US but it had to be a certain size, something like 108 inches (length plus girth). I had to skinny down the box but it made it.
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Old 03-30-09, 03:15 PM
  #75  
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I tried to send a ten dollar bracelet to Australia via fedex and they wanted $55. They are still the cheapest for domestic.
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