Broctoon

I am a reasonably smart guy, but I'm new to a lot of bike maintenance stuff. I've installed plenty of BBs, including a few of the outer bearing type: an FSA, a SRAM GXP and a Campy UT, all of which use a wave washer between the left crank arm and bearing. I've never done a Shimano.

Here's what I want to put in a road bike frame I'm working on (68mm English BB shell):

- Shimano SM-BBR60 (Ultegra Hollowtech II, with the correct English cups)
- Shimano FC-R3000 crankset (Sora 2x9)

My biggest question--I see there are spacers available in three different thicknesses, .7, 1.8, and 2.5mm. Can you tell me which one I'll need?

Also, what else should I be aware of? I think I have the right tool for the cups. If not, I'll find one. And I understand how the pre-load screw works, with its own special tool.

I appreciate any advice!

cxwrench

You shouldn't need any spacers.

Broctoon

Alrighty then. Easy-peasy-lemon squeezey. (Or Japanese-y, since it's Shimano?)

Answered in less time that it took me to type the original post. I love Bike Forums.

HillRider

To expand a little, Shimano Hollowtech II cranks have a plastic "crank bolt" that threads in the non-drive side and is snuged down only finger tight (6-13 inch-pounds) to set the end play. Shimano sells a small plastic tool (TL-FC16) that makes this adjustment easy but it can be improvised.

Hollowtech triple cranks require a spacer that is installed between the non-drive side crank arm and the bb's bearing outer face and it is included with the cranks. Doubles don't include or need it.

dedhed

FWIW my 6603 crank has 2 spacers. A plastic one on the drive side and metal on NDS

HillRider

FC-5703 cranks come with a nds spacer that's made up of two parts, a plastic ring with a metal insert and is loose in the package. The installer has to fit it. The slip-on plastic spacer on the drive side spindle is installed by Shimano and requires no further installation.

cxwrench

Can we discuss cranks the OP doesn't have a little more?

dedhed

Given the generic HT II in the thread title and "anything else I should be aware of" in the body, sometime down the road if someone actually does a search, and this thread comes up, they may find the information on those other HT II cranks relevant.

djb

Re hollowtech ll in general, my first and only experience with mounting a H2 triple on my touring bike about 5 years ago was very straightforward, and I've been very impressed with how long it has lasted.
I've done numerous long touring trips with it, months long trips on a fully loaded up bike, 4 panniers+ (including central America and mexico) and the bike must have about 10,000kms on it and the same h2 bearings, still smooth and good feeling.

yes, I'm one that takes good care of my bike and I'm a lightweight, but still, I'm impressed.

Shell facing probably worth it if not done, for the long run anyway.

HillRider

At the risk of offending cxwrench with more "irrelevant" information. I have HT2 triples (FC-5703) on two road bikes with Ultegra level (BB-6700) bottom brackets. Both the cranks and bottom brackets have over 30,000 miles each on them and are still running smoothly and with no play and shifting remains excellent. I can endorse them without reservation.

djb

Mine is a XT crank and bearing, I've got another xt bearing as a spare, have been told anecdotally that xt are longer lasting than deore, but who knows. My wife's bike has deore ht2, so may be a comparison at one point.

Question-- I've never done it yet, but is it worth taking them apart, cleaning everything up and reinstalling? What about home regreasing of the actual bearing, ie taking seal off carefully and regreasing? I know I've seen some explanation of using a thin exacto knife to do this, but never have so far.
Worth it?
Worth just basic disassemble and clean and general regrease of threads etc?

Thanks

HillRider

I've removed the cups every couple of years just to check that there is no water or crud in the bb shell and reinstalled them with fresh grease or anti-seize on the threads. I've never removed the seals and regreased the bearings themselves and, as mentioned above, mine are still in good condition after over 30,000 miles so there seems to be little incentive to do more. When the do finally wear out, replacement complete bottom brackets are relatively inexpensive.

If you really want to service these bottom brackets here is a YouTube video showing how:

Crankycrank

I have pretty much the same experience as Hillrider. My BB has almost 30k miles on it now and I have peeled the seals off flushed and re-lubed about 3 times since new. I have noticed that each time I do this the grease is pretty fresh looking so I went from doing it at I think about 6k miles the first time to a 12k interval the last time. I do ride mostly in dry road conditions. It seems that I'm being overly cautious but if you want to be sure how yours are doing it's not difficult to take the seal off and check. And also as Hillrider mentioned it's probably a good idea to re-grease the BB threads every 2+? years to prevent corrosion

djb

Thanks to the two of you for the experienced and detailed replies, appreciate it.
This winter I will tear both h2 bikes down and at the minimum do the general clean and regrease of threads. I suspect my actual bearings area is clean, as I haven't ridden in very much gucky conditions, I regularly wipe the bb area clean in general and liberally greased the bb threads on install.

I'll save the vid HR as a reminder of the two seals removal techniques.

My feeling is that the xt has better tolerances than the deore , so better sealing. I'm just going from hub regreasing experiences and how xt hubs tend to have cleaner grease over the same time compared to lower tier stuff.

thanks again both of you.