Charliekeet

Hi,
Just picked up an older Kona Jake the Snake cyclocross frame, aluminum. It’s 130 rear spacing (I confirmed w digital caliper), and of course, all I own are 126 and 135.

If I can avoid buying a 130 rear wheel, great. I have this 135 wheel just sitting around anyway, so I thought about trying to slim it down, and read threads about that. It’s a generic hub, looks similar to Shimano Acera 9-speed.

I’ve never messed with hub/axle spacers before, so:

1. Is there anything you see on this NDS that I can remove if I can undo the locknut? The thin item(s) just behind the nut measure at a bit under 4mm.
2. Do I just hold what look like flats on that (inner) cone on this side and turn the (outer) locknut on this side counter-clockwise?
3. Or would I be better off using one of my 126mm wheels, maybe adding a thin spacer or two and having a slight squeeze in at the back?

ClydeClydeson

the one wide spacer on the non-drive-side is likely very close to 5mm. Removing it will get your OLD very close to 130mm. Three snags with this strategy: (a) you will have to shorten the axle on the NDS by a few mm so the QR doesn't bottom out before it clamps on the frame; (2) You will have to redish the wheel so the rim is centred between the locknut faces; (iii) the rubber seal will likely not fit properly on the remaining washers.

Bill Kapaun

You'll need to remove 5mm of spacing on the NDS. (Actually, I'd remove about 3mm and force the DO's 2mm)
IF QR, you need to cut off 5mm off the axle so the ends don't protrude beyond the DO's.

You'll need to redish. This is actually simple. Just loosen the NDS spokes slightly. Probably 1/4 turn or so. Do 1/8T at a time and check.
Check dish first. It might already have moved a mm or 2 toward that side.

The NDS spokes have a much greater effect on dish then DS.

Unca_Sam

-3 points for inconsistent formatting of your points! Agree with them anyway.
Add that you will need to re-center the wheel on the axle anyway, so finding another shorter axle isn't actually that much extra work. What's $20 in the face of $150?

ClydeClydeson

Unca_Sam Cutting the axle may be a bit of a pain in the arse, but that strategy allows you to do the whole operation without actually disassembling the bearings. It also leaves the cones and nuts on the DS untouched so you have an easier time getting an appropriate amount of axle showing after assembly. The difficult parts of it are (@) holding the axle still while cutting; (ß) keeping chips from contaminating the bearings, and (©) cleaning up the threads after cutting. Actually, if you cut using the existing locknut as a guide, you will cut off pretty much exactly the right amount, and removing the nut will partially clean the threads.

N.B. My numbering system was inspired by an old George Carlin joke where he was listing things and said, "I've numbered them One, two and 'C'... I was never very good at indexing."

HillRider

Bike axles are relatively soft steel and cut easily with a fine tooth (24 tpi, or better, 32 tpi) hacksaw blade. Smooth the cut end with a file and you are good to go. You want to have 5.0 to 5.5 mm protruding past the lock nut at each end.

CliffordK

If you have steel dropouts, you'll probably need to cut the axle.

If you have aluminum dropouts, you may be able to get away with simply recentering the axle.

Hopefully your quick release will fit, and I'd probably trim it to length.

Charliekeet

OK. So I can 1. take out the flat spacer from the NDS, 2. use a nut and cut down the axle by about 3mm to it, and file flat, 3. make sure the resulting axle ends are still within the thickness of the dropouts, 4. redish the wheel so the rim is *centred between the locknut faces*, and do this by loosening the NDS spokes slightly. (Max 1/4 turn or so)
oh, and additional edit - I'd have to try to fit that rubber boot differently to cover the NDS...

(But also IF aluminum dropouts I may not even need to cut the axle, and can just dish to center the wheel and be done with it.)

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OR I can acquire a 130 wheel for cheap. I do see one around here, a Ritchey 36-spoke cyclocross for <$75...
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And sounds like nobody would recommend using the 126mm wheel with spacers added? EDIT: I'd maybe have to redish anyway? It'd be weaker inherently cause freewheel, should modernize if possible...

Bill Kapaun

Since you'll have the axle out anyway, lay it in the DO's to see how much you need to trim.
Trim enough extra so it doesn't have to be "perfectly" centered. (who wants to recenter again because 1 end is protruding .25mm too much on one side?)
Maybe you have 130mm axle in your parts bin?

Charliekeet

I do have this hub which is @ 130. Old 105 7-spd. Can I take & use the axle out of that?

Bill Kapaun

a 10mm X 1mm axle is a 10mm X 1mm axle.

Charliekeet

Forgot to put the pic in.
Maybe that’s a way to go then.

CliffordK

You have a lot of options. I like the little bit longer axles which is why I suggested recentering.

Note, most quick releases are recessed, so the axle can come all the way to the edge of the dropout without problems, although it might not hurt for it to be slightly shorter.

I might snag the 105 quick release though.

Cutting (or grinding) an axle isn't a big deal if you need to do it.

It really depends on what spare parts you want to end up with at the end of the day.

Charliekeet

Turns out the wide flat spaced is closer to 7mm! 6.9. And the two taller thin ones next to the locknut are about 1.15 apiece. So I’ll grab some from something else/LBS and replace a total of 5mm less back on the axle, then plan where to try the cut. Thanks to all

madpogue 

If the bearings/races are the same size, you could possibly use all the bits from the 105 hub.

70sSanO

Keep in mind that taking 5mm off the NDS might really mess up your dishing.

But here is something to think about…

Measure the locknut width. They look enormously thick. If they are 5mm like a rear wheel I had, you can replace them with some Shimano 3.5mm and automatically go to 132mm; which should fit in your 130mm dropouts.

You will need to be aware that the chain may be too close to the dropout. If not and you need that xtra 2mm take the washer off the DS and NDS.

Now… finding 3.5mm locknuts might take a bit of work, but they are out there.

John

Charliekeet

Interesting- I’ll measure them and see what I’m dealing with.