FSA handlebar instructions: "Let's confuse the user!"
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They're suggesting you angle the bars so the ends point a few degrees below horizontal, then position the shifters so the end of the lever is horizontal with the bottom edge of the bar end. Obviously it's just a suggestion and you can position the bars any way you like.
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Who needs instructions to install a handlebar?
#29
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Here's how my Diamondback Podium is set up with that FSA Omega compact drop bar. Been that way for almost a year. Seems okay. The bar is fine. The bike feels a bit stretched out some rides but that's because of age and nagging old injuries. On good days it's great.
I guesstimated the brake lever position by using a straight edge against the bottom of the unwrapped bar and brake levers. It might be a fraction of an inch off but so far the bike hasn't asploded.
I'm about to switch those MicroShift brifters for older Dura Ace, so I might need to adjust the bar angle, height, stem spacer, etc. We'll see.
I guesstimated the brake lever position by using a straight edge against the bottom of the unwrapped bar and brake levers. It might be a fraction of an inch off but so far the bike hasn't asploded.
I'm about to switch those MicroShift brifters for older Dura Ace, so I might need to adjust the bar angle, height, stem spacer, etc. We'll see.
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Thanks, @canklecat .
As I said, I'm still working out the riding position on my road bike.
For now, this is the way the bars and levers are set and it seems to work OK. Lever position is a compromise - for gentle braking I grab the lever from the top (hood), rather than going to the drops.
As I said, I'm still working out the riding position on my road bike.
For now, this is the way the bars and levers are set and it seems to work OK. Lever position is a compromise - for gentle braking I grab the lever from the top (hood), rather than going to the drops.
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#32
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I put up some tips here on getting your levers symmetrical that a lot of eye-twitching OCD types may find helpful: https://www.bikeforums.net/22070542-post16.html
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Thanks, @canklecat .
As I said, I'm still working out the riding position on my road bike.
For now, this is the way the bars and levers are set and it seems to work OK. Lever position is a compromise - for gentle braking I grab the lever from the top (hood), rather than going to the drops.
As I said, I'm still working out the riding position on my road bike.
For now, this is the way the bars and levers are set and it seems to work OK. Lever position is a compromise - for gentle braking I grab the lever from the top (hood), rather than going to the drops.
#34
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Good observation!
It's a 70mm stem. I really don't find it very twitchy at all. I had an even shorter stem on it for a couple of rides and it was OK also.
The original quill was 100 or 110 mm.
Just experimenting to see how stretched out I want to be on the bike- I bought a little collection of cheap stems. Those bolt-on stems make swapping so easy; it's a big improvement (not in looks, though...).
I think a lot of the talk about stem length and handling is exaggerated; the geometry doesn't change as far as I can see. Move your hand forward 5 cm and the fork will turn a certain number of degrees.
Using narrower bars will change the steering feel more, and certainly (as we all know) where you place your hands (tops or drops).
The picture distorts reality a bit with the very thick bar wrap over the original wrap (probably more than I will keep) and the camera wasn't pointing perfectly straight at the bike.
It's a 70mm stem. I really don't find it very twitchy at all. I had an even shorter stem on it for a couple of rides and it was OK also.
The original quill was 100 or 110 mm.
Just experimenting to see how stretched out I want to be on the bike- I bought a little collection of cheap stems. Those bolt-on stems make swapping so easy; it's a big improvement (not in looks, though...).
I think a lot of the talk about stem length and handling is exaggerated; the geometry doesn't change as far as I can see. Move your hand forward 5 cm and the fork will turn a certain number of degrees.
Using narrower bars will change the steering feel more, and certainly (as we all know) where you place your hands (tops or drops).
The picture distorts reality a bit with the very thick bar wrap over the original wrap (probably more than I will keep) and the camera wasn't pointing perfectly straight at the bike.
#35
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That does seem to be quite a bit of effort. I just stretch a thick ribbon from behind the clamp of one STI lever to behind the clamp of the other STI lever, and eyeball it from the front of the bike to make sure that the ribbon is parallel to the tops of the handlebars.
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OT: What is the frame? Looks nice.
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That does seem to be quite a bit of effort. I just stretch a thick ribbon from behind the clamp of one STI lever to behind the clamp of the other STI lever, and eyeball it from the front of the bike to make sure that the ribbon is parallel to the tops of the handlebars.