shortnugly

Went to a bike swap and "accidentally" bought a 2013 Norco Threshold SL carbon frame and fork for - $50 . I have no idea how that happened.
68 mm PF shell, 100mm QR and 135mm QR. No wheels but it did include original set of Avid Shorty Ultimate Canti's. SRAM S950 Carbon Crankset PF30 46/36 (no chainrings) with a 110bcd and SRAM PF30 BB

Plan is to build this out as a flat bar light trail / gravel bike. Sourcing used parts is an adult's easter egg hunt.
I already have a Shimano M8000 groupset: Deore XT 11spd 11-46 cassette, XT Rear Derailleur GS (short cage) and XT shifter.
Target chainring will be 30 or 32, possibly even a 28, big hills in the Sierra mtns.

So a 1x direct mount crankset is in the vision. I can go either PF 24 or 30, doesnt really matter to me.

What I cant figure out is what the chainline is for the frame. Originally, with the double, I would have estimated around 47mm?
With the single chainring, maybe 44? Not sure.
I'd love to use the SRAM S950 carbon cranks but with the 110 bcd a 34T would be the limit.
I've been looking at mtb cranks with direct mount chainrings but dont know if the chainline would match up - or close. Plus, I'd like to keep the Qfactor more narrow like a road set and not have to use an outboard PF BB.
Any one know of a manufacturer or a solution to turn this cross bike into the fun flat bar demon it wants to be?


a few light war wounds but ready to go again

Darth Lefty 

Sweet frame. What a deal!

With a derailleur chain it's not absolutely crucial for the chain line to be perfect. They can tolerate doubles or triples, after all. With the 135 rear end you might expect mountain chain line at the front rings but with the road bike heritage it could also have come with a road double. The inner-middle of a MTB triple is about the same as inner-outer of a road double so you can expect it to tolerate that kind of difference.

I'd start with a cheap 40t 1x ring from Amazon or Ali (like JGBike) and try it on the outer position of the crank you got with it. On the inner you might get interference with the chain stay.

I dunno if a MTB crank is a good idea. They have longer spindles and would need some spacers or a spindle swap to bolt up. And they give a much bigger q-factor, like 7 inches vs 6

Get the right brake levers, because most flat bar levers are long pull for full size v brakes, and you need short pull. Short pull and dual pull levers are out there. Shimano sells them in road flat bar groupsets

If you don't like the crank I'll take it for $25

shortnugly

Thanks for the advice on the brake levers, but the goal is to make it a 1x drivetrain with the 11speed Deore XT M8000,

Darth Lefty 

I understand, but M8000 has hydraulic disc brakes and so your brakes will be something entirely else. I don’t think there are any cable brake levers that do I-spec

shortnugly

Roger that. I dont have any brake levers as of yet. Thanks for pointing that out.
I was gonna google 'brake levers for cantilever'. If you had any recommendations, that would be greatly appreciated.

Darth Lefty 

The Tiagra 4600 and 4700 and Sora 3000 flat bar levers I think are all only different in color and have a flip chip for the cable anchor to give them short or long pull so you can use them with any cable brake

Fentuz

Yes, for that reason, I use Tektro MT2.1 levers as they are adjustable and can be used for long or short pull (I have V brake at the front and BMX caliper at the back)






Regarding your sram S950 crankset, I believe it is similar to a force 1 using 68 GXP BB and the spider is 3 bold mount. I run my force one with Sram Eagle direct mount ring (3 bolts) and +6mm offset but I run 142.
wolf tooth seems to indicate that 135QR with GXP should work with +6offset
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...or-sram-cranks

shortnugly

Prev owner applied a heavy duty commercial coating to the arms