Handlebar stem removal
#26
(rhymes with spook)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Winslow, AR
Posts: 2,795
Bikes: '83 univega gran turismo x2, '85 schwinn super le tour,'89 miyata triple cross, '91 GT tequesta, '90 yokota grizzly peak, '94 GT backwoods, '95'ish scott tampico, '98 bonty privateer, '93 mongoose crossway 625, '98 parkpre ariel, 2k'ish giant fcr3
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 919 Post(s)
Liked 745 Times
in
546 Posts
lol ^^^
acme = so much better. comes with a free stick of dynamite for stuck seat posts
acme = so much better. comes with a free stick of dynamite for stuck seat posts
#27
Senior Member
Loosen the top bolt of the stem until it sticks out of the stem but isn't fully out of the wedge threads. Smack with a hammer. It should pop down and then the stem should move freely. If it doesn't start using penetrative oil from the top and the bottom and let it sit in both orientations for a day.
If you're still having trouble you can come by and I can see what's what. I have the headset tools and a couple spare spacers.
If you're still having trouble you can come by and I can see what's what. I have the headset tools and a couple spare spacers.
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Great White North
Posts: 1,213
Bikes: 2013 Cannondale Caad 8, 2010 Opus Fidelio, 1985 Peugeot UO14, 1999 Peugeot Dune, Sakai Select, L'Avantage, 1971 Gitane Apache Standard, 1999 Specialized Hard Rock
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 543 Post(s)
Liked 469 Times
in
299 Posts
Loosen the top bolt of the stem until it sticks out of the stem but isn't fully out of the wedge threads. Smack with a hammer. It should pop down and then the stem should move freely. If it doesn't start using penetrative oil from the top and the bottom and let it sit in both orientations for a day.
If you're still having trouble you can come by and I can see what's what. I have the headset tools and a couple spare spacers.
If you're still having trouble you can come by and I can see what's what. I have the headset tools and a couple spare spacers.
#29
Phyllo-buster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,829
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2287 Post(s)
Liked 2,028 Times
in
1,244 Posts
#30
(rhymes with spook)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Winslow, AR
Posts: 2,795
Bikes: '83 univega gran turismo x2, '85 schwinn super le tour,'89 miyata triple cross, '91 GT tequesta, '90 yokota grizzly peak, '94 GT backwoods, '95'ish scott tampico, '98 bonty privateer, '93 mongoose crossway 625, '98 parkpre ariel, 2k'ish giant fcr3
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 919 Post(s)
Liked 745 Times
in
546 Posts
omg!!..ha! or her foot
before i got a t-post driver (fencing), i had to use a sledge hammer. wouldn't you know the one time i ask my wife to hold the post steady just so i could get it started, i miss the post and snap the handle. and, it's funny how the hammer head could have gone anywhere, but it had to bounce onto her foot. i think she made it do that so i could be in trouble again. haven't found her book of spells and pin dolls, but i'll keep looking
before i got a t-post driver (fencing), i had to use a sledge hammer. wouldn't you know the one time i ask my wife to hold the post steady just so i could get it started, i miss the post and snap the handle. and, it's funny how the hammer head could have gone anywhere, but it had to bounce onto her foot. i think she made it do that so i could be in trouble again. haven't found her book of spells and pin dolls, but i'll keep looking
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Upper Left, USA
Posts: 1,953
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Liked 444 Times
in
298 Posts
...there are a couple of adjustable wrenches that have jaws narrow enough for this headset adjusment buisness, but in general, the jaws are too fat and the set screw for the jaws is too wobbly for them to work well in this application, They tend to slip off and damage or round the corners. These work OK, but not as well as a real headset wrench in the proper size.
Likes For tricky:
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Upper Left, USA
Posts: 1,953
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Liked 444 Times
in
298 Posts
Ok, just watched RJ the bike guy and he goes through this grueling video on "removing a quill stem, worst case scenario" Holy crap, that looks like hell! I don't think it's frozen because I don't see any signs of rust along the edge of the stem into the head tube and can even see a bit of grease (being optimistic here).
I was worried the stem bolt acted like a tent pole bolt, where you tightened it one way, and it expanded into the stem to tighten further. Glad to say I'm wrong.
I have an adjustable wrench that I can use to remove the hex nut and will try tapping the stem bolt to see if that loosens the wedge.
I was worried the stem bolt acted like a tent pole bolt, where you tightened it one way, and it expanded into the stem to tighten further. Glad to say I'm wrong.
I have an adjustable wrench that I can use to remove the hex nut and will try tapping the stem bolt to see if that loosens the wedge.
Just to be clear, you don't need to remove any part of the headset to remove the stem.
The order of operations here are:
1. Remove stem. Smack the bolt while loosened a bit but still threaded in to the wedge to remove the wedge. Hold the wheel between your legs, then twist the handlebars back and forth to see if it'll break free. If that doesn't work then you start down the path of more intensive removal methods. You already found RJ, but there are a ton of other threads and other online resources about stuck stems out there.
2. Remove top hex nut on the headset.
2.5 (optional) remove the bottom hex nut and fork and regrease your headset.
3. Replace the light bracket with a keyed spacer the same width (pic below)
4. Reinstall top hex nut. You'll need 2 headset wrenches or a headset wrench and an adjustable wrench to reinstall the hex nut and readjust the headset.
5. Clean your stem, the inside of the steerer tube, and apply a very thin layer of grease to your stem before installing to reduce the chance of re-stuckage.
6. Reinstall stem.
7. Go ride before the weather gets crappy!
Likes For tricky:
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Great White North
Posts: 1,213
Bikes: 2013 Cannondale Caad 8, 2010 Opus Fidelio, 1985 Peugeot UO14, 1999 Peugeot Dune, Sakai Select, L'Avantage, 1971 Gitane Apache Standard, 1999 Specialized Hard Rock
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 543 Post(s)
Liked 469 Times
in
299 Posts
Bingo, bango, bongo - took all (or most) of your advice and a decent tap on the wood and unstuck the expander wedge. When I took the stem out there was some surface rust so I cleaned that all up, got off that light mount and then greased the heck out of the stem and put it back together. Now I can show off my new handlebar bag which was the real reason I wanted the mount off.
thanks all
thanks all
#34
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,456
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times
in
3,183 Posts
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Great White North
Posts: 1,213
Bikes: 2013 Cannondale Caad 8, 2010 Opus Fidelio, 1985 Peugeot UO14, 1999 Peugeot Dune, Sakai Select, L'Avantage, 1971 Gitane Apache Standard, 1999 Specialized Hard Rock
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 543 Post(s)
Liked 469 Times
in
299 Posts
I didn't read Tricky's reply until just now which is too bad because I could have done further maintenance by removing the bottom hex nut and forks and lubricating that. I can save that for a later job.
Likes For gthomson:
#37
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,456
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times
in
3,183 Posts
That's not how you do it. Read my post again. Study how to adjust a headset. You basically need to lock two "nuts" together on any system like this (whether it be a headset, hub, pedal, or bottom bracket). Or you can just hope for the best and maybe replace the headset later when it fails.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 14,099
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4493 Post(s)
Liked 6,297 Times
in
3,632 Posts
Bingo, bango, bongo - took all (or most) of your advice and a decent tap on the wood and unstuck the expander wedge. When I took the stem out there was some surface rust so I cleaned that all up, got off that light mount and then greased the heck out of the stem and put it back together. Now I can show off my new handlebar bag which was the real reason I wanted the mount off.
thanks all
thanks all
Always proceed with caution while looking for the opportunity to get after it when necessary.
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 14,099
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4493 Post(s)
Liked 6,297 Times
in
3,632 Posts
I have one of these. Love it. Super wide jaws, tight clearances in the mechanism so that the width that you set the jaws stays in place much better than most adjustables, and mine was made in Spain so (hopefully) there's less chance of bad working conditions and environmental offenses. I've used it plenty of times in the situation where only one of my headset wrenches fits and it works great.
Likes For merziac:
#40
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,516
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2731 Post(s)
Liked 3,361 Times
in
2,034 Posts
The light mount was a very thin sheet metal (1mm?) and it sat between the headset locknut and the head tube so I don't think it required a spacer? I didn't need to remove the front fork or wheel. I have a decently thin adjustable wrench which I sized correctly for the headset locknut and gingerly tightened it back on with the wheel aligned correctly.
I didn't read Tricky's reply until just now which is too bad because I could have done further maintenance by removing the bottom hex nut and forks and lubricating that. I can save that for a later job.
I didn't read Tricky's reply until just now which is too bad because I could have done further maintenance by removing the bottom hex nut and forks and lubricating that. I can save that for a later job.
#41
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,456
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times
in
3,183 Posts
#42
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Great White North
Posts: 1,213
Bikes: 2013 Cannondale Caad 8, 2010 Opus Fidelio, 1985 Peugeot UO14, 1999 Peugeot Dune, Sakai Select, L'Avantage, 1971 Gitane Apache Standard, 1999 Specialized Hard Rock
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 543 Post(s)
Liked 469 Times
in
299 Posts
That's not how you do it. Read my post again. Study how to adjust a headset. You basically need to lock two "nuts" together on any system like this (whether it be a headset, hub, pedal, or bottom bracket). Or you can just hope for the best and maybe replace the headset later when it fails.
#43
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,456
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times
in
3,183 Posts
Sorry, didn't watch. RJ is a hack. Read Sheldon Brown.
That's the way every "moving" component on a bicycle works. It is basic mechanics, locking two nuts together on a bolt. If we couldn't lock two nuts together on a bolt, a bicycle would not work. We would have to rivet everything in place or use locking compound.
you're right.
Likes For SurferRosa:
#44
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Great White North
Posts: 1,213
Bikes: 2013 Cannondale Caad 8, 2010 Opus Fidelio, 1985 Peugeot UO14, 1999 Peugeot Dune, Sakai Select, L'Avantage, 1971 Gitane Apache Standard, 1999 Specialized Hard Rock
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 543 Post(s)
Liked 469 Times
in
299 Posts
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Upper Left, USA
Posts: 1,953
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Liked 444 Times
in
298 Posts
@gthomson looks like the image of the keyed washer didn't come through in my previous post. You need to have a washer with a key in it in place of that light mount. See below. Notice that little nub at the inside top of the washer. If you don't have that the headset will become loose over time. Your old light mount probably had a key in it for this reason. If your headset is adjusted well right now (no binding from being too tight or rocking back and forth) it would be enough for a little bit of riding but plan on trying this again with a second wrench and a new washer once acquired.
#46
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Great White North
Posts: 1,213
Bikes: 2013 Cannondale Caad 8, 2010 Opus Fidelio, 1985 Peugeot UO14, 1999 Peugeot Dune, Sakai Select, L'Avantage, 1971 Gitane Apache Standard, 1999 Specialized Hard Rock
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 543 Post(s)
Liked 469 Times
in
299 Posts
@gthomson looks like the image of the keyed washer didn't come through in my previous post. You need to have a washer with a key in it in place of that light mount. See below. Notice that little nub at the inside top of the washer. If you don't have that the headset will become loose over time. Your old light mount probably had a key in it for this reason. If your headset is adjusted well right now (no binding from being too tight or rocking back and forth) it would be enough for a little bit of riding but plan on trying this again with a second wrench and a new washer once acquired.
Likes For gthomson:
#47
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,456
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times
in
3,183 Posts
Just tall enough to prevent your lock nut from bottoming out on the top of the steerer.
Not all headsets use keyed washers. I don't know of a reason that your headset would become loose without a keyed washer if you lock the adjustable cup and locknut tightly together.
Not all headsets use keyed washers. I don't know of a reason that your headset would become loose without a keyed washer if you lock the adjustable cup and locknut tightly together.
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Upper Left, USA
Posts: 1,953
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Liked 444 Times
in
298 Posts
Just tall enough to prevent your lock nut from bottoming out on the top of the steerer.
Not all headsets use keyed washers. I don't know of a reason that your headset would become loose without a keyed washer if you lock the adjustable cup and locknut tightly together.
Not all headsets use keyed washers. I don't know of a reason that your headset would become loose without a keyed washer if you lock the adjustable cup and locknut tightly together.
@gthomson re: size, if you mean thickness, then if your headset was staying tight when you had the light mount, then just match the thickness of the portion of the light mount that was sandwiched between the two mounts. If you mean circumference, then yes, there are a couple different sizes, but a bike shop should be able to easily supply one for your standard 1" threaded headset. Or, just YOLO it without a keyed washer like SurferRosa. Heck, if it's staying tight now, then you can run it that way too. You do you!
#50
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,456
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times
in
3,183 Posts