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Wrapping bar tape

Old 05-16-17, 07:37 PM
  #26  
TimothyH
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
I always use electrical tape for exactly the reason you stated. I haven't had a problem with it. Some off brands get nasty and are a mess when you try to remove them, but I haven't had that issue with 3M electrical tape.
3M electrical tape works excellent.
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Old 05-16-17, 07:49 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by _ForceD_ View Post
This is the way I've wrapped for years. I think it looks cleaner without the adhesive tape...that usually comes off as you said. Never have any issues with the edges rolling up due to hand pressure as long as I keep it tight enough.

Dan
I agree. I've never had edge roll-up either, even with the thicker tapes.
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Old 05-16-17, 09:08 PM
  #28  
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I just re-wrapped the bars on my Varsity. They still had the original translucent red plastic tape. It was wrapped from the stem out and down to the ends of the bars, so when I put the new tape on, that's what I did. I didn't even think about trying it the other way.
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Old 05-16-17, 11:54 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene View Post
Confused.. if i close my hand around the bar, my thumb points opposite direction to if hands are resting but not clenched around the bar.
Make a fist. You thumb and fingers run the same line. Kinda sorta.
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Old 05-17-17, 03:49 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
You can seek out Self Fusing tape to finish it.
Awesome stuff. No adhesive at all. The tape fuses to itself where it overlaps. Takes a little more dexterity to apply, but really nice results.
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Old 05-17-17, 03:53 PM
  #31  
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Many, many years ago, cloth tape was often done this way. If you did it REALLY tight and plugged the end into a bar plug, you could get by without finishing with sticky tape. A wrap like this shellaced loks really nice.

But, doing it this way with modern tape leaves the overlap facing you, and within a week or two, the edges start to roll due to sliding force from your hands.
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Old 05-19-17, 12:04 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney View Post
I go bottom to top, use electrical tape to finish. I rarely rife with my hand that far in so it getting soft in hot weather in not much of an issue and it is so cheap, replacing it isn't a big deal.

One thing I do obsess over is how I wrap it. The bar tape itself I wrap as follows - I start from the right side bar end counter clockwise looking from the rear, left side opposite so the tape comes across the top of the bar end pointing in. I wrap the electrical tape in the same direction as the bar tape, three times around and finish just behind the brake cable under the tops. That way the tape is coming over the tops pointing back and my wrists tend to tighten both the bar tape and electrical tape when I pull on them hill climbing on the tops.

Ben

That's exactly what I do.
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Old 05-19-17, 05:07 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by AlexCyclistRoch View Post
Many, many years ago, cloth tape was often done this way. If you did it REALLY tight and plugged the end into a bar plug, you could get by without finishing with sticky tape. A wrap like this shellaced loks really nice.

But, doing it this way with modern tape leaves the overlap facing you, and within a week or two, the edges start to roll due to sliding force from your hands.
Nope, the edges do not roll if good quality tape is used. Fizik tape lasts for years and tens of thousands of kilometers when wrapped top-to-bottom.
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Old 05-19-17, 06:47 AM
  #34  
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The "official" Schwinn way is to start 2" away from the stem. It instructs to leave that open triangle shape at the brake levers and continue on and tuck the tape in the bar end and put the bar end plugs in to hold it. I use a sliver of clear scotch tape to hold it at the start but you don't have to. I also go around the brake hoods to eliminate the triangle. That also requires about an inch and a half piece of loose bar tape be used to help fill the triangle, wrap around that. Using nos Schwinn tape leaves absolutely no room for error when eliminating the triangle, you will run out of tape on the larger diameter alloy bars. Trim tape just looks wrong and hokey. When I first saw it my impression was the installer didn't know what he was doing.
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Old 05-19-17, 08:49 AM
  #35  
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The way Schwinn suggests is the way I was taught back in the late 60's. When I got back into biking in 2008, it changed to bar end to stem. I was confused but remembered how badly the curling was back in the day.

Another way that has been suggested in other threads, is to wrap both ways ending at the brake lever. Best of both worlds from a edge curling approach. An alternative to trim tape is twine wrap.

WRT "cleavage," with thinner tape, we use to double wrap around the brake lever base. With todays cork (thicker) tape, it gets too bulky.
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Old 05-19-17, 09:18 AM
  #36  
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There used to be ribbon collars with molded space for the brake lever cable. These attached with a small allen screw. Wish the hell I could find some. Any shop I talk to about them-look at me weird... LOL Good idea on the heated spoke branding/who knew?
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