Anti-Seize Compound For New And Old Bicycles
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Anti-Seize Compound For New And Old Bicycles
My 8 oz bottle of Permatex Anti-Seize Compound is finally at the bottom. I use it on everything. Cars, Mowers, Boats, Computers, and yes, Bicycles. Having acquired this bottle in the early 90's and really having used no other brand before and after I am wondering...What's the best Anti-Seize compound I should be using on my bicycles?
What's the best Anti-Seize compound I should be using on my bicycles?
Is there one I should not use on my bicycles?
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While there are TI specific AS compounds (and other metal referenced ones) the overlap with most all the hardware store stuff is large. I suspect for most all bike work it's like the chain lube question. The best is the one you will use. Andy
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+1. Lot's of discussions and ads around the net on this and a lot of disagreements. Why not just keep using the Permatex if that's what has been working for you. Personally I prefer just using grease and preferably marine grease if I have some laying around. Not as durable as some anti-seizes but a heck of a lot less messy, easier to clean off when working on parts, easier to work with and lasts a long time in most conditions. Just my 2 cents.
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I have a little bit of a quart can of nickel anti-seize that was my dad's from back in the early 80's maybe even the late 70's. I've never found any other type of anti-seize necessary. Nickel AS is decent for most all normal things.
Little bit goes a long way. Last a long time. Hard to get out of clothing. I wouldn't be too particular about brands. It's just a bike, not a space craft.
Little bit goes a long way. Last a long time. Hard to get out of clothing. I wouldn't be too particular about brands. It's just a bike, not a space craft.
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I've found the stick style anti-seize is much more convenient to use and is not a messy as the can/brush or tube styles. I currently have Loctite 8065 just because it is in a stick form.
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(Just remembered one of my thread exceptions. My screw top Mocha coffee makers. They get olive oil applied with a paper towel corner. Lube that 's safe to ingest.)
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My choice for dissimilar metal joints is Tef-Gel® which is specifically designed to resist electrolytic corrosion. It contains PTFE rather than metal; I don't like introducing another metal into the mix with nickel/copper high-temperature antisieze formulas. Bikes do not require high-temperature properties. Expensive but a little goes a long way. https://www.ultratef-gel.com/tef-gel/
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Never heard of it sure beats squeezing my old AS into a syringe.
Man... I should have used this on my boat parts...
Man... I should have used this on my boat parts...
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...to some extent, the answer to this depends on what you are trying to keep from seizing. But yeah, most of them work for regular old aluminum/steel contact and steel/ steel contact. Carbon anything is a special case. There're a number of charts that take the electrolytic potential of various metals into account, and from there you can figure out specific anti-seize compounds to use in your application.
I think I have small jars of both a zinc/copper sacrificial metals compound, and a nickel compound. AS stated, bicycles are not especially demanding, if you store them someplace dry and don't live near the ocean, or ride them through a lot of road salt.
...I once started a thread in mechanics on anti-seize that went on for probably ten pages.
There used to be a lot of olde guys on here who were certain it was a waste off money on bicycles.
I remember thinking that one or two of them might have a stroke, when that thread was going on.
In an entirely passive aggressive way, that was kind of fun.
...to some extent, the answer to this depends on what you are trying to keep from seizing. But yeah, most of them work for regular old aluminum/steel contact and steel/ steel contact. Carbon anything is a special case. There're a number of charts that take the electrolytic potential of various metals into account, and from there you can figure out specific anti-seize compounds to use in your application.
I think I have small jars of both a zinc/copper sacrificial metals compound, and a nickel compound. AS stated, bicycles are not especially demanding, if you store them someplace dry and don't live near the ocean, or ride them through a lot of road salt.
Anti-seize Compounds Information
...I once started a thread in mechanics on anti-seize that went on for probably ten pages.
There used to be a lot of olde guys on here who were certain it was a waste off money on bicycles.
I remember thinking that one or two of them might have a stroke, when that thread was going on.
In an entirely passive aggressive way, that was kind of fun.
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There is a reason Park Tool only has one grade of squeeze tube anti-seize and that's because it will do all you need for bike, unless maybe you leave it outside year round on the coast were you could justify a marine grade product. As to what not to use we had warehouses full of the stuff in mines, mills, smelters and refineries for specialty uses but a huge waste of money for just steel, SS, aluminum and titanium and various coating on fasteners found on a bike.
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Think I'll just get another 8oz bottle of the Permatex AS. That should last me another 40 years and at the age of 68 it should do. Ha...
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For use on Stainless steel Al or Ni based is recommended.
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My titanium-framed road bike, with a titanium seatpost, came with a recommendation to use a copper-based anti-seize compound. A small amount was furnished. In 20 years, I've had no issues. This doesn't mean other anti-seizes wouldn't work as well.