Joe Remi

Each internal-gear hub I've used - I've used a lot of them - made some clicking noises in certain gears, and they all were slightly different from each other. Yours is probably fine.

Fentuz

if the original elastomer is dead in current condition, you could try to regenerate it. On redshift stems, there are 2 elastomer pieces that tend to harden and shrink causing excessive movement. the fix that, people put the 2 pieces of elastomer in boiling water. The heat allows the elastomer to soften and it goes back to it original molded/injected dimensions.
you could try that if you think the "solidified" elastomer of hub is scrapped

jayray26

Hi Andrew (and MTZER if you are still listening).
I too have a Dahon Speed Pro with a Pantour hub in which the elastomer has failed.
I have a couple of questions. about replacing the elastomer.
First, I assume the Thudbuster LT elastome you were suggesting is the seatpost elastomer sold by Crane Creek?
Nowadays, these do not seem to be sold be sold by color - they are all black - they just describe the various types as "firm", "extra firm", "medium", "soft" etc.
Do you happen to know what firmness the blue elastomer was?

Second question, the pantour suspension hub owners manual I found online shows a couple of large spacers/washers on either side of the hub (they are labelled 4 & 5 in the owners manual, if you have access to it) these seem to be missing from the hub I have, and there is some side-to-side play of the hub on the two "axles" (though the bearings themselves do not seem to be worn). Do you have those specers in your hub, and what are they made from? I thought might replace them with something like felt, to provide a seal, but that might be entirely the wrong idea. Any thoughts or suggestions gratefully received.

jayray26

Did you ever manage to get this done MTZER?

Jonesandrew

I'm fairly sure that the blue elastomer (from Cane Creek) was medium density and that black was hard and grey was soft. I have to say I think that the blue might be a little bit too firm for my weight (76kg) and I would suggest you obtain two or three different densities to experiment with if you can.
In my (paper copy) manual part 4 is the bearing. Part 5 is the debris guard which I think is the spacer you are referring to. It is constructed the same way as a rubber shield on a typical axle bearing including the ones in these hubs. That is, a thin metal washer which is coated with rubber on the external face and around the circumference and you correctly identify them as seals. You could replace them with thin metal or plastic washers of the correct thickness to eliminate the sideways play, but obviously without the sealing rubber you would be entirely reliant on the bearing shields to keep debris out.

jayray26

Thanks Andrew - that's really helpful - I misread the user manual - i see part 5 is the debris guard. I am still a little puzzled about what it is that should prevent the side-to-side movement - whether it is the debris guard 5, or the small washers (3). Does the Debris guard actually sit within the recess in the hub, on top of the bearing? I think that may be what i'm seeing when I remove the end cap (2) - otherwise, I can't see how it would remain in place. Maybe I just need to squeeze the end caps together harder (the user manual says to use a vise - did you have to do that?
As far as cutting the replacement elastomer to the right shape and size, did you just do this by eye? the original elastome im my hub is now totally mis-shapen and so not much help.
I did try putting it in hot (not boiling) water, and it instantly went (and remained) very soft and squidgy.

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions.

John

Thanks again for all the

Jonesandrew

[QUOTE=jayray26;22596897]Thanks Andrew - that's really helpful - I misread the user manual - i see part 5 is the debris guard. I am still a little puzzled about what it is that should prevent the side-to-side movement - whether it is the debris guard 5, or the small washers (3). Does the Debris guard actually sit within the recess in the hub, on top of the bearing? I think that may be what i'm seeing when I remove the end cap (2) - otherwise, I can't see how it would remain in place. Maybe I just need to squeeze the end caps together harder (the user manual says to use a vise - did you have to do that?
As far as cutting the replacement elastomer to the right shape and size, did you just do this by eye? the original elastome im my hub is now totally mis-shapen and so not much help.
I did try putting it in hot (not boiling) water, and it instantly went (and remained) very soft and squidgy.

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions.

John
/QUOTE]
Hi John, I just double checked - the debris guards do not act as centralising spacers - the rubber is too soft. The washers (3) do that job. My hub has two "wavy" spring washers on each side. In the uncompressed condition the combined thickness of the two is approximately 1mm. Note that as I mentioned in my #15 above, even brand new bearings allow a little side to side play at the rim. My guess is your bearings have more wear than mine. I didn't need to press the end cap on with a vise. It is a snug fit, but I can push it home by hand. Note that the axle and pivot tubes bottom out in the blind holes in the end cap so pressing together with too much force might damage something. Yes I just cut the elastomer by eye. Trial and error. First one I cut too small, second attempt is still installed. I think the original shapes are simple square cut blocks as shown in the exploded drawing in the manual, but there wasn't enough material in the Cane Creek elastomer to make one that shape, so I cut a segment as I hope you can see in the picture above. Thanks for the feedback about the hot water trick - you just saved me some time!