Antwuzhere

I traded for a Peugeot PFN10. I believe it's an 81 from the research I've done. I'm new to these bikes and wanted to restore it. Are these models worth the restore? Vitus 181. Not sure if all of the parts are original but the rear setup.. rim, cassette, tires, bar tape, brake pads and seat definitely aren't. I've already started the project and have money into it but should I continue with it being a 64cm. 700c Front mavic rim with hub.. M logo on the hub, Simplex derailleurs, Stronglight chainwheels 42t 52t, France Italia D352 bars, Atax stem, Simplex skewers, Laprade seat post, Weinmann calipers, blue frame with all the decals and chrome "socks" on the forks. It still has the white sticker on the bottom bracket.. PFN10?64, It's a little worn can't tell if there's a number at the question mark. Seriel number looks like 30126596 but the 5 is stamped out of place and the 30 looks like it wasn't stamped properly. I would post photos but it says I new need 10 new posts to be able to do so being a newbie. Anything will help.

Insidious C. 

They were decent bikes. If you would enjoy the process of fixing it up or, even better, riding it afterwards then the added expense can be worthwhile. Spending money on bikes to increase value is usually counterproductive however. Good luck!

Ant's pic album

Soody

pic assist

Soody

no picture of the whole bike?

Soody

That's a nice bike for sure.
Imo the most important things are the size is right for you, and you like the paint.
I think it's a really nice color. I'd be less into restoring it, and more into cleaning, servicing it and tastefully modifying it without spending too much money, so that it rides good.

SurferRosa

Sorta looks like a crack in the first three pics.

Antwuzhere

That's what I was worried about also and why I included the pic.

oneclick 

I'd be REALLY worried about those apparent cracks and bridge separation

Strip the paint from that area and have a good look.

jdawginsc 

It almost looks like a crack in the paint from a bend in the stay.

But that would not be a good place for a crack in the steel

juvela

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the forum had a recent thread on another 1981 PFN10 here -

​​​​​​https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...d-peugeot.html



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T-Mar

I believe the serial number is actually B1126596. which would mean that the frame was manufactured during December 1981 at Peugeot's Beaulieu factory. Based on the serial number, it was manufactured late enough in the calendar year that it should be a 1982 model.

Antwuzhere

Thank you for all the info. I appreciate it. I'm probably going to just service it. New cables and housings, if that just turns out to be a paint crack, if not then I'll have some parts for sale if anyone is interested.

oneclick 

(After inspection) I'd be inquiring how much it would cost to have it fixed - that's a pretty good frame otherwise.

Antwuzhere

Good to know. Thank you for the heads up. I was originally just going to turn it into a single speed with quill adapter and some bullhorns but I needed some input before ruining a vintage peugeot.

Road Fan

My guess is that something is going on in the steel. I think that's a pattern of paint cracks:

1. the one from the inner face of the chainstay starting at the back of the chainstay bridge, looks like the D/S chainstay was bent outwards, perhaps an aggressive attempt to cold-set? What is the OLD now, and what was the original dimension?

2. The joint between the D/S chainstay and the chainstay bridge shows a line which might be rust, suggesting just paint broken at the joint due to dirt, or paint broken due to frame strain.

With the chainset installed I"d suggest measuring the OLD at the rear, try to estimate the rear chainline, and measure the chainline at the front.

Or get it checked at a good shop. Vitus tubing is good stuff. If the frame is sound it should be a really good ride.

repechage

Probably the way to verify if there is a actual crack or just a paint failure would be to scratch off the paint- especially in the first image - and look with a loop.
sanding might hide it.
pocket knife, small paint scraper or xacto blade.

a real repair if needed would not be cheap, probably both stays. I would place it in the uneconomical class.

Road Fan

I've recently had some frame restoration (Woodrup resto, crashed Mondonico, and the pair of famous Witcombs and my crashed Mondonico), and am awaiting painting of my Woodrup). I hope when the Woodrup is done I really like it!

I'd say if one is not in love with a frame when it is sent out for repair, pass it on.

Road Fan

Even after the repair, I'd vote against ruining the vintage Peugeot!

John E

The top two pictures indicate a crack right where my other UO-8 failed -- on the drive side chainstay's weak spot, between the tire and chainring clearance dimples.

Antwuzhere

It does have a 7 speed freewheel as to opposed the the original 6. That's why I'm hoping it's paint. I haven't been able to work on it since due to work but I'm reading up on all these opinions and I truly appreciate it. Thanks fellow enthusiasts.

Road Fan

I don't think original FW versus current FW is a reliable indication of lifetime stress on the joints near the chainstay root. More significant is just the concern about what look like cracks in that area.

There are a few tests you can do to try to assess if the frame is out of alignment. First is the measure the OLD of the rear dropouts with no wheel installed. In the '80s companies were in some cases making rear triangles wider.

Second is the string test. You tie a light, smooth string to the dropout and run it up to and around the headtube (best is if the string loops around the smooth surface of the headtube) and back down to the other dropout. Tie it to the second dropout so it is pretty tight. Kite string and button thread both work well. If the frame is well-aligned the distance from the right hand string to the seat tube will be the same as if you measure from the left-hand string to the seat tube.

You should go to Harbor Freight or a good hardware store and get a 6" metal ruler with a finely graded scale: millimeter, ½ millimeter, or 1/32" are all good. Finer scales are hard to read, and the frame and string will both vibrate. I have one from True Value made in India, which is just fine for the purpose.

gugie 

I'd just ride it. Inspect the crack in the paint and what looks like insufficient brazing in the chain say bridge on a regular basis. If you're concerned about that area, judiciously remove just enough paint to get to the core of the problem. 80 grit sandpaper is all you need. If you see nothing, use a small brush and touch up the paint. Primer would do just fine as it's in an area that most people will look at. If it's a crack, again, I'd just ride it and check to make sure it doesn't grow.

Hummer

I believe the frame number is actually B0126596. @Antwuzhehe, the B and 0 were not struck squarely into the frame, but you had the "0" correct.

The white label with the serial number and model designation I believe is PFN10S64.

The frame was manufactured in 1980 December and as stated earlier the "B" is the factory at Beaulieu.

The head badge and decals are 1981 model year. The 1982 model year had a different headbadge.

Worth it to restore? I would, but then I restore almost everything and I loose money in so doing.

Have fun.

Antwuzhere

I ended up finishing it and selling it. It was nice riding it the few times I did and seeing heads turn. Very good learning experience also, I already knew I wasn't going to get what I put into it, but it gave me self gratification finishing a project and passing it on to someone who will enjoy, and respect, the time put into it.