Broken rear axel on Miyata 618GT
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Broken rear axel on Miyata 618GT
Hi Bike Forum-
I recently noticed my rear tire rubbing the chainstay on my Miyata 618GT. I thought I might need the rear wheel trued but when I brought it to my local bike shop they determined the axel was broken. It’s a “Sansin Sealed System hub”. The bike shop suggested I purchase a new wheel but I’m wondering is it possible to just replace the axel? I have already replaced the skewer which was slightly bent. I’d appreciate any suggestions. Thank you!
I recently noticed my rear tire rubbing the chainstay on my Miyata 618GT. I thought I might need the rear wheel trued but when I brought it to my local bike shop they determined the axel was broken. It’s a “Sansin Sealed System hub”. The bike shop suggested I purchase a new wheel but I’m wondering is it possible to just replace the axel? I have already replaced the skewer which was slightly bent. I’d appreciate any suggestions. Thank you!
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That's old as hell. Take it apart and see if you can find one that matches...I'm betting it's possible. Post pics of the axle.
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This might be a little tough. If your Sansin hub has cartridge bearings, (not cup/cone), the axle probably has a flange. I can’t imagine that axle is available anywhere.
You can probably find a complete rear hub and use the axle from it. I don’t have the background with those hubs to know you can use a Specialized or Sunshine cartridge bearing hub. I would imagine they are the same, but someone will have to confirm that.
John
You can probably find a complete rear hub and use the axle from it. I don’t have the background with those hubs to know you can use a Specialized or Sunshine cartridge bearing hub. I would imagine they are the same, but someone will have to confirm that.
John
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I'd post in classic and vintage if I were you
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You may have to buy a hub off eBay and just swap the axle. There are plenty of Sansin hubs out there. It may not even be proprietary so any "parts drawer" axle might work. Post a picture of the broken axle.
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I believe the "Sealed System" is just some O-rings on conventional cones on a conventional axle. Your LBS or bike co-op will have a drawer full of those.
Bent and broken rear axles are pretty common on freewheel hubs of that era. If you want a stronger wheel and have money available, replace it with a freehub wheel. There's less bending torque due to the bearings being closer together.
Bent and broken rear axles are pretty common on freewheel hubs of that era. If you want a stronger wheel and have money available, replace it with a freehub wheel. There's less bending torque due to the bearings being closer together.
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You need to determine what you have as "sealed". They also made Sunshine and many suntour hubs.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...intenance.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...onversion.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...intenance.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...onversion.html
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I believe andrewclaus is correct. I had what I'm pretty sure were the same hubs that came OEM on an '85 Bridgestone 400 and they were conventional cup-and-cone bearings. Mine were spaced 126mm so, assuming the OP's are the same, he will need a 137mm long 10mm diameter rear axle which should be easy to find. If the axle for a 130mm hub (141mm long) is all he can find it could easily be cut down as needed.
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Just about any axel of correct length and diameter and tpi will work. You may have toothed washers to replace. Your wheel imo should only be replaced if cups are wasted. Shops in general don't like working on old groups, for them it can be a rabbit hole or toilet bowl of time. If your bike was French they would probably tell you to get a new bike.
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As mentioned, axles are available but finding a quality, strong replacement is a crapshoot if buying from Ebay and the likes and you really need a strong axle that won't break in a year. Wheels Manufacturing still sells quality axles but not cheap but still probably the least expensive fix. Wheels Manufacturing Hub Axles (wheelsmfg.com) Buying a new wheel gets a little complicated if you want a stronger freehub style hub as you'll at least need to add the cost of a cassette + possibly a few other parts and it's a good idea to spread the frame dropouts to accept the wider freehub.
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This is why you should buy $100 worth of tools and do all the simple repairs yourself. Start by buying a couple $9 Park cone wrenches and a new axle (maybe one from Wheels Manufacturing). Check eBay for both. It's usually very simple. While you're at it, service the hubs if they need it.
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Hope you kept the old skewer. It's probably still a lot better than the new one you bought.
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Thanks all for the excellent suggestions. Here are pics showing the broken axle & bearings. I measured the axle and it appears to be ~135mm and spacing between dropouts is ~126mm.
I was wondering if the the QR Rear Axle, 10mm x 1mm x 137mm from Wheels Manufacturing might work. Will the 2mm difference in length be problematic? The description says it's compatible with many Japanese rear hubs with 126mm spacing.
https://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-p...s/axle-01.html
I also found this Wheel Master AQ-1000 Rear Axle Set, 135mm, QR x 126mm but it seems rather cheap. I'd prefer to get the strongest axle possible.
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...RoCV4gQAvD_BwE
pics:
Broken axle
Length ~135mm
"sealed bearings"
I was wondering if the the QR Rear Axle, 10mm x 1mm x 137mm from Wheels Manufacturing might work. Will the 2mm difference in length be problematic? The description says it's compatible with many Japanese rear hubs with 126mm spacing.
https://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-p...s/axle-01.html
I also found this Wheel Master AQ-1000 Rear Axle Set, 135mm, QR x 126mm but it seems rather cheap. I'd prefer to get the strongest axle possible.
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...RoCV4gQAvD_BwE
pics:
Broken axle
Length ~135mm
"sealed bearings"
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2. Acquire the necessary cone wrenches so you can adjust the hub.
3. Remove the parts from the current axle and measure the length accurately. If you're not sure on the threading/pitch, just take the axle to your bike shop to measure that. Sometimes the shop will have a display so you can do it yourself.
4. Buy an axle from Wheels Manufacturing and new 25 grade balls for your hub.
5. If the new axle is too long, you can use a hacksaw to cut it. It's easier to cut down an axle that is substantially longer than what you need rather than just a couple millimeters too long. Cut it with a cone and locknut inside the cut, so when you remove them, they will clean the threads of the cut.
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4. Grade 25 balls, probably uses either 18 or 22 1/4" balls.
5. I'd lay the new axle in the drop outs and see if it's too long before installing. QR axle cannot protrude beyond the drop out or it won't clamp. A mm on each side, I'd probably use a grinder to shorten and the advice to thread on cone/nut to clean threads still applies.
5. I'd lay the new axle in the drop outs and see if it's too long before installing. QR axle cannot protrude beyond the drop out or it won't clamp. A mm on each side, I'd probably use a grinder to shorten and the advice to thread on cone/nut to clean threads still applies.
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I also found this Wheel Master AQ-1000 Rear Axle Set, 135mm, QR x 126mm but it seems rather cheap. I'd prefer to get the strongest axle possible.
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...RoCV4gQAvD_BwE
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...RoCV4gQAvD_BwE
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1. Acquire a freewheel remover tool. After you get your new axle, you'll then want to remove the freewheel so you can service the hub easily.
2. Acquire the necessary cone wrenches so you can adjust the hub.
3. Remove the parts from the current axle and measure the length accurately. If you're not sure on the threading/pitch, just take the axle to your bike shop to measure that. Sometimes the shop will have a display so you can do it yourself.
4. Buy an axle from Wheels Manufacturing and new 25 grade balls for your hub.
5. If the new axle is too long, you can use a hacksaw to cut it. It's easier to cut down an axle that is substantially longer than what you need rather than just a couple millimeters too long. Cut it with a cone and locknut inside the cut, so when you remove them, they will clean the threads of the cut.
2. Acquire the necessary cone wrenches so you can adjust the hub.
3. Remove the parts from the current axle and measure the length accurately. If you're not sure on the threading/pitch, just take the axle to your bike shop to measure that. Sometimes the shop will have a display so you can do it yourself.
4. Buy an axle from Wheels Manufacturing and new 25 grade balls for your hub.
5. If the new axle is too long, you can use a hacksaw to cut it. It's easier to cut down an axle that is substantially longer than what you need rather than just a couple millimeters too long. Cut it with a cone and locknut inside the cut, so when you remove them, they will clean the threads of the cut.
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@SurferRosa I successfully installed the new axle and it's riding great!! I felt a nice sense of accomplishment learning a new skill. Thank you for all the instructions!
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@SurferRosa I successfully installed the new axle and it's riding great!! I felt a nice sense of accomplishment learning a new skill. Thank you for all the instructions!
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I’m glad you were able to fix the problem but, honestly, you are missing the root of the problem. Freewheel hubs are prone to bending and breaking. You should consider a replacement wheel with a freehub. It solves the problem and may just save your frame. I broke an axle on a Miyata mountain bike and it broke the dropout.