Got a Gravel bike on a C&V frame?
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I just put together an 84 Roberts for light gravel. Here it is done enough to take a test run (and get a little dirty). It now has fenders... and handlebar tape.
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2 Speed kickback on a C&V Lotus Eclair.
I'm going to the storage locker to pick up this bad boy tomorrow. My winter ride!
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Ive had it for almost a year and a half and absolutely love the frame- it is simple, well designed, and fits what I wanted.
Admittedly, the design isnt for everyone.
It is a lower trail design, which i really like, but many large brands seem to design around higher trail. I like a gravel bike that rides like my road bikes since my gravel roads are simply unpaved roads. I just want more tire clearance over a paved road bike, basically.
The frame is very well fabricated- its a neatly welded front triangle and the rear triangle is brazed. The printed cable guide is very simple and sturdy. Paint has been excellent, as expected.
I dont think I need a 44mm head tube, but its the trend, so it exists. The front end is stiff as expected, but I have never thought its uncomfortable compared to my other bikes. 43.5mm wide tires definitely eliminate any harsh/stiff feeling that could be created from the trendy stiff front end.
The front triangle tubing is 853, but this is not a light frame. It is a strong frame that is overbuilt for most in order to comply with fatigue testing. The 853 DZB(double zonal butted, which is really just triple butted) downtube is basically a mountain bike tube that exists so a gusset isn't needed.
The frame is by no means heavy compared to other steel disc gravel frames, but it isnt light compared to steel road bike frames. Just keep that in mind.
The ovalized top tube is for lateral stiffness apparently, but I like it because it makes carrying the bike easier/more comfortable.
I bought the Hope headset upgrade so that was already installed and it is very nice.
I have looked at the Secan 2.0 and the only difference I've seen from the original is that the fork now has mid-mounting points.
Thats cool and could be appealing for those wanting to use the bike for bikepacking, but I have a Black Mountain MC for commute/touring that so I dont have a need for fork mounts.
The frame builds up easily since all cables are routed outside the frame. I get that there is a strong industry trend to route all cables internally from the bars, but having them on the outside makes setup and maintenance super easy and I dont think twice about the cables routed externally.
Tire clearance is excellent too. I'll suggest a couple of great tires- - wtb Resolute are 42mm, pretty light, have significant tread, but roll fast. These are great overall and work well on dirt singletrsck too.
- panaracer gravelking ss 43mm. The ss version stands for semi-slick. These are heavier than Resolute, but still light. They are basically a slick and seem to roll faster than Resolute tires. Seriously comfortable and fast tire. I moved to these recently because most of my gravel rides are 2/3 gravel 1/3 paved.
Edited to add- there are a handful of other steel gravel frames i considered.
Ritchey Outback 2.0- good weight, low stack, limited tire clearance.
Ribble CGR 725- stack too low and frame a bit heavier.
All City Cosmic Stallion- came super close to buying. Awesome paint schemes, good weight, but stack a bit too low.
Jamis Renegade S1 frameset- again, came super close to buying. At the time the stack wasn't high enough, but they have since tweaked geometry at least on the largest frame. This is a fantastic option with a 631 and carbon fork with mounts.
Just mentioning these in case you haven't considered them. They would have sizes that work great for most who aren't goofy tall like me.
Admittedly, the design isnt for everyone.
It is a lower trail design, which i really like, but many large brands seem to design around higher trail. I like a gravel bike that rides like my road bikes since my gravel roads are simply unpaved roads. I just want more tire clearance over a paved road bike, basically.
The frame is very well fabricated- its a neatly welded front triangle and the rear triangle is brazed. The printed cable guide is very simple and sturdy. Paint has been excellent, as expected.
I dont think I need a 44mm head tube, but its the trend, so it exists. The front end is stiff as expected, but I have never thought its uncomfortable compared to my other bikes. 43.5mm wide tires definitely eliminate any harsh/stiff feeling that could be created from the trendy stiff front end.
The front triangle tubing is 853, but this is not a light frame. It is a strong frame that is overbuilt for most in order to comply with fatigue testing. The 853 DZB(double zonal butted, which is really just triple butted) downtube is basically a mountain bike tube that exists so a gusset isn't needed.
The frame is by no means heavy compared to other steel disc gravel frames, but it isnt light compared to steel road bike frames. Just keep that in mind.
The ovalized top tube is for lateral stiffness apparently, but I like it because it makes carrying the bike easier/more comfortable.
I bought the Hope headset upgrade so that was already installed and it is very nice.
I have looked at the Secan 2.0 and the only difference I've seen from the original is that the fork now has mid-mounting points.
Thats cool and could be appealing for those wanting to use the bike for bikepacking, but I have a Black Mountain MC for commute/touring that so I dont have a need for fork mounts.
The frame builds up easily since all cables are routed outside the frame. I get that there is a strong industry trend to route all cables internally from the bars, but having them on the outside makes setup and maintenance super easy and I dont think twice about the cables routed externally.
Tire clearance is excellent too. I'll suggest a couple of great tires- - wtb Resolute are 42mm, pretty light, have significant tread, but roll fast. These are great overall and work well on dirt singletrsck too.
- panaracer gravelking ss 43mm. The ss version stands for semi-slick. These are heavier than Resolute, but still light. They are basically a slick and seem to roll faster than Resolute tires. Seriously comfortable and fast tire. I moved to these recently because most of my gravel rides are 2/3 gravel 1/3 paved.
Edited to add- there are a handful of other steel gravel frames i considered.
Ritchey Outback 2.0- good weight, low stack, limited tire clearance.
Ribble CGR 725- stack too low and frame a bit heavier.
All City Cosmic Stallion- came super close to buying. Awesome paint schemes, good weight, but stack a bit too low.
Jamis Renegade S1 frameset- again, came super close to buying. At the time the stack wasn't high enough, but they have since tweaked geometry at least on the largest frame. This is a fantastic option with a 631 and carbon fork with mounts.
Just mentioning these in case you haven't considered them. They would have sizes that work great for most who aren't goofy tall like me.
I do like a lower trail front end in the right use-case, and a dedicated gravel bike would be a good case for me. The Raleigh I pictured is very low trail, and it’s helpful in slow speed maneuvering around all the rocks and roots typically found on the singletrack here in New England. Great for a front load, too of course. The other bikes you listed also caught my attention, but didn’t quite do it for me for various reasons. The Fairlight stood out, and I don’t see them mentioned as often so was neat to see yours.
I'm going for a Faran 2.0
It checks all of the boxes for me.
I'm ready to send the deposit this week as soon as I choose the frame color.
I'll likely retire the Bilenky and that will just about cover the frameset.
https://fairlightcycles.com/product/...v=79cba1185463
It checks all of the boxes for me.
I'm ready to send the deposit this week as soon as I choose the frame color.
I'll likely retire the Bilenky and that will just about cover the frameset.
https://fairlightcycles.com/product/...v=79cba1185463
So I can try to drag myself back on topic for C&V... 27” to 700c or 700c to 650b conversions can be great for taking C&V frames off the pavement. The Motobecane I pictured is a 700c conversion from 27” and the Raleigh is a 650b conversion. One of the great things about C&V is how adaptable the framesets can be.
Last edited by Sir_Name; 11-17-20 at 09:55 AM.
#106
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If I know I am going to be doing any trails or gravel/dirt roads , I ride my 1973 Mondia that has Michelin Pro Ten tires on it . That are marked 27" x 1 1/4" and measure 1.390" when inflated and the tread design seems to work well. It also is nice on paved roads . The tires barely clear and the rear has to be deflated to be removed. I don't do much dirt riding so this is about as close as I have to a gravel bike. Joe
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1971 Stella with 35c Gravel Kings and Shimano Deore drive setup for cancelled CINO 2020, 1979 Peugeot PKN-10 with 32c, 80's Fisher HK II
1971 Stella
1979 Peugeot PKN-10
1988? Fusher HK II
1971 Stella
1979 Peugeot PKN-10
1988? Fusher HK II
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#112
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Did you add a doo-hickey to the fork to get eyelets at the front?
When converting to 650b, did you use 700c fenders?
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Yes, my doo-hickey is diy and modeled vaquely after Gamoh Minoura rack adapters, but with shallower angle between the eyelets to get the dimensions right for that rack.
Rack is from 650b Peugeot Px50L, as the fenders are.
I do have one set of 700c fenders massaged to 650b radius, but that required quite a lot of patience and test fitting. Basically spreading/widening the fender arch tightens the radius and vice versa.
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Original owner wanted a repaint from original pearl white. His dad painted over with multi color splotches to get a confetti effect. Later kid sold bike to a friend who rode it awhile until 1 day lost control and hit a curb.. Put bike on Portland CL for $50 where I found it. @ Gugie straightened, alligned the fork and it's a good rider now. There are posts on this bike, here's the 1st: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...d-peugeot.html
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Very nice. I’m still interested in both, the Faran looks like a great option for an adventure bike. That or a Moots would be right at the top of the list. For more off-road focused adventures I think I’d be sold on the Faran. Curious to see how you build it up and what you think as it comes along. I’ll try to keep an eye out on the gravel sub-forum or mtbr/etc. to see if I can spot it if you wind up posting (hints welcome...!). :
RTP's, Wald and Tubus Tara low riders. Built with XT.
Can't afford a new one.
Ordered the green Faran. Will go 90% off road. Should be a hoot.
Last edited by gomango; 11-19-20 at 06:01 PM.
#118
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Hey, thanks a bunch for the detailed reply. Appreciate it! I was curious about how stiff the front end would be in practice, thanks for mentioning it. If I recall from reading some copy on their site, they stayed away from tapered head tubes in order to avoid an overly/even harsher ride. I’m sure the plump rubber will help smooth things out, and I have enough mass to me that a bit of stiffness in the right places can be a benefit... : ) Also keeps the food scale and handwringing about each gram far from mind. If I recall correctly, Fairlight said the only difference for the Secan 2.0 is the warty fork. I’d actually prefer the original fork without everything cage mounts, but that’s fine.
I do like a lower trail front end in the right use-case, and a dedicated gravel bike would be a good case for me. The Raleigh I pictured is very low trail, and it’s helpful in slow speed maneuvering around all the rocks and roots typically found on the singletrack here in New England. Great for a front load, too of course. The other bikes you listed also caught my attention, but didn’t quite do it for me for various reasons. The Fairlight stood out, and I don’t see them mentioned as often so was neat to see yours.
I do like a lower trail front end in the right use-case, and a dedicated gravel bike would be a good case for me. The Raleigh I pictured is very low trail, and it’s helpful in slow speed maneuvering around all the rocks and roots typically found on the singletrack here in New England. Great for a front load, too of course. The other bikes you listed also caught my attention, but didn’t quite do it for me for various reasons. The Fairlight stood out, and I don’t see them mentioned as often so was neat to see yours.
https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...can-build.html
I have since moved to 105 hydraulic brakes and dropped the stem 20mm from the initial setup. The Gevenalle shifters had been with me for gravel from the start and I wasnt ready to give em up, but after a year of using them on this frame I made the switch.
Oh, and I now have Panaracer GK SS 43mm tubeless tires. The SS are semi-slick and they are fantastic. The WTB Resolute is a great tire if you are riding more dirt/singletrack. The GK SS is better for pavement and gravel around me. These 2 tires are what I would choose from depending on terrain/style of riding as both roll fast. The GK SS set up tubeless without any weeping and the Resolute casing is like cheese cloth, but thats been changed on a new version.
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This 1963 Girardengo is a work in progress but will be ready for spring rides!
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I see off-road fun in your future
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59 Allegro Special -- 72 Bob Jackson -- 74 Motobecane Grand Jubile -- 74 Sekine SHS 271 -- 80 Nishiki International
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I have an older Moots rigid mtb. 26r.
RTP's, Wald and Tubus Tara low riders. Built with XT.
Can't afford a new one.
Ordered the green Faran. Will go 90% off road. Should be a hoot.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLWPQjFEW4Y
RTP's, Wald and Tubus Tara low riders. Built with XT.
Can't afford a new one.
Ordered the green Faran. Will go 90% off road. Should be a hoot.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLWPQjFEW4Y
forgot to mention earlier- this is a build thread on mine. It has some weights and closer pics on clearance, etc if it helps.
https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...can-build.html
I have since moved to 105 hydraulic brakes and dropped the stem 20mm from the initial setup. The Gevenalle shifters had been with me for gravel from the start and I wasnt ready to give em up, but after a year of using them on this frame I made the switch.
Oh, and I now have Panaracer GK SS 43mm tubeless tires. The SS are semi-slick and they are fantastic. The WTB Resolute is a great tire if you are riding more dirt/singletrack. The GK SS is better for pavement and gravel around me. These 2 tires are what I would choose from depending on terrain/style of riding as both roll fast. The GK SS set up tubeless without any weeping and the Resolute casing is like cheese cloth, but thats been changed on a new version.
https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...can-build.html
I have since moved to 105 hydraulic brakes and dropped the stem 20mm from the initial setup. The Gevenalle shifters had been with me for gravel from the start and I wasnt ready to give em up, but after a year of using them on this frame I made the switch.
Oh, and I now have Panaracer GK SS 43mm tubeless tires. The SS are semi-slick and they are fantastic. The WTB Resolute is a great tire if you are riding more dirt/singletrack. The GK SS is better for pavement and gravel around me. These 2 tires are what I would choose from depending on terrain/style of riding as both roll fast. The GK SS set up tubeless without any weeping and the Resolute casing is like cheese cloth, but thats been changed on a new version.
Santa may be sending a Secan frameset my way. We’ll see.
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I am hoping to finish this winter bike build soon, even though so far its been very mild in NYC. 94 Trek 750; need to evaporust some kickstand damage, paint it over, and frame-save it. It's not going to be too pretty with a mash of silver and black parts, but should be effective and fun to ride.