Adapters for lower part of a rear rack
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Adapters for lower part of a rear rack
My Topeak Super Tourist rack has these angle pieces built in to the bottom of the legs. Do they exist as a separate part? I've checked problemsolvers and google but "rack adpters" just get me to changing the top connector. I'm trying to adapt a modern Dahon rack with 150mm spacing down there to an older Dahon bike with 120mm spacing down there. I'd rather not bend the tubing if I don't have to.
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It looks like your options would be limited to replacing the adjustable legs, but I don't think that will solve your spacing problem: https://www.topeak.com/global/en/pro...eplacement-Kit
You may need a couple of spacers and slightly longer bolts to fill the gap. I think you should be able to find what you need at the hardware store for a few dollars.
You may need a couple of spacers and slightly longer bolts to fill the gap. I think you should be able to find what you need at the hardware store for a few dollars.
#3
bill nyecycles
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Looks like either of these will do the job, if i understand correctly.
https://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FDBFA
https://crossobags.com/product/rack-...r-disc-brakes/
https://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FDBFA
https://crossobags.com/product/rack-...r-disc-brakes/
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This is an inherently bad (terrible) design. At best it's a kludge to get around disc brake calipers on frames designed by people who don't think.
To understand my issue, pick up something heavy and hold it close to your chest for a while. Rest and repeat, holding it in front of you at arm's length.
Since you're going narrower, and there's no disc brake in the way, I suggest you gently bend both legs in so they run a straight line from rack to frame. Then attach as you normally would.
To understand my issue, pick up something heavy and hold it close to your chest for a while. Rest and repeat, holding it in front of you at arm's length.
Since you're going narrower, and there's no disc brake in the way, I suggest you gently bend both legs in so they run a straight line from rack to frame. Then attach as you normally would.
Last edited by FBinNY; 11-15-22 at 06:40 PM.
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Get a Tubus rack and you will be happy, it will last nearly forever good support and made of steel so you can bend it as needed and I haven't had disc brake issues with their stuff.
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Thank you for all the suggestions. The jandd and crossobags links may do the trick, as might a stroll through the local Ace hardware with my bike and rack to talk the to clever old guys there. I have a friend with a metalworking shop that might be able to bend them for me too. I did look for a suitable rack for this 33 year old 16" bike but have not found any NOS or even used without a whole nuther bike attached so trying to adapt modern versions which apparently have longer axles than my old timer.
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Those stand-off pieces are not available separately to my knowledge -- they're welded to the rack legs.
The advantage they have over just adding spacers and a long bolt is those stand-offs are hollow inside, with a bolt head flange set deep within. So you don't use a longer bolt -- you use a standard length M5 bolt to fasten them to the eyelet on the frame. This eliminates putting a weight load on a long bolt, as would be the case if you spaced out straight legs with tubular spacers. With this design, you're at least using the friction interface between the stand-off and the eyelet as the weight-bearing interface.
It is, of course, not as strong as if the rack legs were straight without that stand-off. But it's better than several alternative methods.
I agree with bending straight legs to fit if that's a possibility.
The advantage they have over just adding spacers and a long bolt is those stand-offs are hollow inside, with a bolt head flange set deep within. So you don't use a longer bolt -- you use a standard length M5 bolt to fasten them to the eyelet on the frame. This eliminates putting a weight load on a long bolt, as would be the case if you spaced out straight legs with tubular spacers. With this design, you're at least using the friction interface between the stand-off and the eyelet as the weight-bearing interface.
It is, of course, not as strong as if the rack legs were straight without that stand-off. But it's better than several alternative methods.
I agree with bending straight legs to fit if that's a possibility.