Polaris OBark

Briefly: I have a new thru-axle frame (Sage Barlow) and need to figure out whether this is traditional or direct-mount. [I mounted a GRX derailleur before I became aware of this, and something is quite wrong, so I suspect it is this (in which case I guess I remove the green linkage).] This is new to me.

Andrew R Stewart 

Help us help you with either links to the bike's website or an actual photo of your bike. Andy

Polaris OBark

Sorry, I just awoke (west coast) and this was keeping me up all night. The website is here, but mine is a slightly older (deeply discounted) frame. I will get a photo as soon as I can...

Polaris OBark

This figure is like a cruel joke. Presumably the yellow bit is diagnostic, but I don't know how to interpret it.

Polaris OBark

Sorry for the delay: phone was dead (no camera) and dogs unfed, and they would mutiny if I went to the garage for this first.

Anyway, I am coming to the conclusion that mine indeed is a standard mount, given the angle of the hanger relative to the seat stay. Is that correct (pictures now posted above).

They appear to use the same hanger on all of their bikes.

Barry2 

The hanger in the pictures does appear to be a regular old style type.
It's possible to install the RD with the RD stop on the incorrect side of the hanger stop. (for want of a better term)

Barry

OK decided to go take a peek at mine for you.
Your pivot point (RED ARROW) appears to be too low. Supporting my earlier guess you have the stop points incorrect.
Note how my Red/Yellow bolts are almost level with the ground.
Loosen the YELLOW Arrow and move the RD stop point upwards above that of the hangers stop point.
FYI for Direct Mount, You remove the red bolt and toss the part indicated by the Green arrow.
The Red bolt is then used to connect with the Direct Mount type Hanger.

All the best

Barry

Hondo6

If you haven't already seen it, this article from Wheels Manufacturing might help clarify the difference. But I'm afraid it likely doesn't address your specific problem.

https://wheelsmfg.com/blog/standard-...r-hangers.html

One of my bikes has a Shimano RD-R7000 mounted (w/b-Link) to a frame with a standard hanger. I'll take a look at it and see if I see any gross visual differences between your photo above and my setup.

Polaris OBark

I think it was the B-adjustment bolt (screw) or possibly I didn't hang it with respect to that little tab correctly the first time. Anyway, now it all works.

On to the next bit of drama: My 2mm hex won't come out of the front derailleur limit bolt.

Hondo6

I looked at my setup (the R7000 is also a Shadow design), and it appears to be installed as yours is. But the derailleur body also appears to have been pulled away from the chainstays and rotated CCW (drive side view perspective) some by chain tension. My cage is nearly perpendicular with the floor.

The chain on yours appears to be loose in the photo. How does it look when chain is installed on the front crank?


Please disregard - I see you found the derailleur mounting problem.

For the stuck hex, I'd suggest wiggling the hex key's long end gently side-to-side gently while pulling on it fairly gently. A drop or two of chain lube applied to the stuck end might help.

Barry2 

So did my picture fix it?
Inquiring minds........................

Barry

Polaris OBark

Yes (well it confirmed the conclusion I was already forced into by experimentation). So yes, thank you!

Polaris OBark

I did all that, and then got distracted and whacked it with the crank and it flew right out. Thankfully I had it adjusted correctly, so I won't have to stick it back in there hopefully ever again.

Everything is done now, apart from the handlebar tape, replacing the adjustable stem with a (TBD) fixed stem, and making a new attempt to thread the Di2 rear derailleur wire through the chainstay (having wasted hours on this previously).

Polaris OBark

Hondo6

Have you seen this?



I'd guess it should work for Di2 wires, too.

One of the commenters to the video suggested using dental floss vice tape. Probably a good idea - especially if you use the flat (ribbon) type. It has more surface area, and is much stronger than most thread.

Plus, it also makes the cable or wire smell "minty fresh".

Polaris OBark

Yeah, I got it threaded with (mint ribbon) dental floss/shop vac, and also using a steel shifter cable and strong magnet. That, unfortunately, was the easy part. Getting the Di2 wire in is difficult, but getting it out the other hole is what is confounding me. A very helpful person here who sent me some wires also included a couple of cable end-caps. At first this had me puzzled, but then I finally figured out that what you do is thread the brake cable through the end cap and the open end then fits very snuggly on the Di2 wire end. It works perfectly, and is clearly the best option UNLESS your hole is so small you can't get it out again. I was able to get it in by making sure the whole Di2 wire end and cap assembly was perpendicular to the chain stay tube. At any angle less than 90° it won't work, due to the size of the hole. Although I could get it in, getting it out the other end was hopeless. I tried for hours to align the assembly with the hole (perpendicular), but failed. I'm about to get one of those lizard skins chain stay protectors and hide my failure, but I will probably have one more try, because I hate being defeated.

Hondo6

You're well on the way to convincing me that it just might be a good idea to stay mechanical and external re: shifting.

Polaris OBark

Nah. Di2 really is great. It is a design flaw in the frame. (The newer version of the frame has better wire ports.) There is a boss for a mechanical shifting wire to run outside/under the chain stay. This internal stretch (about 4 or 5 inches) is purely for cosmetic purposes.