SP to Son Dynohub change?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 2,595
Bikes: 1992 Serotta Colorado II,Co-Motion Speedster, Giant Escape Hybrid, 1977 Schwinn Super Le Tour
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 455 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 112 Times
in
85 Posts
SP to Son Dynohub change?
Currently have the SP but I think it's may be starting to go bad. If I change to a Son is the wiring different?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 8,891
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2594 Post(s)
Liked 1,922 Times
in
1,206 Posts
IIRC the SP uses the Shimano plastic block connector at the hub. SON uses individual spade connectors. Solder on the spades, swap the two lines if necessary (make sure ground and hot go to the right terminals), and you should be good to go.
Schmidt also makes a "no connectors required" hub which integrates the wiring into the fork. It's supposed to make removing and installing the wheel easier, and I'm fairly sure it does that if you've got a bike built around those connectors. Sounds like you don't have that bike, so don't get that hub.
Schmidt also makes a "no connectors required" hub which integrates the wiring into the fork. It's supposed to make removing and installing the wheel easier, and I'm fairly sure it does that if you've got a bike built around those connectors. Sounds like you don't have that bike, so don't get that hub.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,177
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3452 Post(s)
Liked 1,452 Times
in
1,131 Posts
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt.php
And wiring:
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/wiringinstructions.php
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 2,595
Bikes: 1992 Serotta Colorado II,Co-Motion Speedster, Giant Escape Hybrid, 1977 Schwinn Super Le Tour
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 455 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 112 Times
in
85 Posts
Thanks!
I'm starting to get "clicking" in the hub. So I thought I would start looking. We have SP on 4 bikes and have only had a bearing problem on one. Got a replacement from Twaine I. 3 days! Have been considering the Son if another went bad.
I'm starting to get "clicking" in the hub. So I thought I would start looking. We have SP on 4 bikes and have only had a bearing problem on one. Got a replacement from Twaine I. 3 days! Have been considering the Son if another went bad.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,177
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3452 Post(s)
Liked 1,452 Times
in
1,131 Posts
Clicking does not sound good. I remember you were on tour when that first one went bad, I think it was your wife's bike?
If I had one failure and now had a clicking, I would be looking at alternatives too.
If you pull your SP off that wheel, if you get curious about the innards, I think you already know about this other thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/electroni...placement.html
If I had one failure and now had a clicking, I would be looking at alternatives too.
If you pull your SP off that wheel, if you get curious about the innards, I think you already know about this other thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/electroni...placement.html
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 2,595
Bikes: 1992 Serotta Colorado II,Co-Motion Speedster, Giant Escape Hybrid, 1977 Schwinn Super Le Tour
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 455 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 112 Times
in
85 Posts
Not sure I want to go down that road! Doesn't sound like a bearing.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 2,595
Bikes: 1992 Serotta Colorado II,Co-Motion Speedster, Giant Escape Hybrid, 1977 Schwinn Super Le Tour
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 455 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 112 Times
in
85 Posts
I was just over at Peter White's site. Wondering if the Deluxe with the wide body is preferable?
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,177
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3452 Post(s)
Liked 1,452 Times
in
1,131 Posts
It might put out enough light at higher speeds or if you do not use a taillight. For touring, I use the hub for USB power, I wanted the highest wattage they have.
Likes For Tourist in MSN:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,415
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 612 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 387 Times
in
270 Posts
I had Co-Motion build my fork for the SL version of the Shmidt Son dyno hub.I know that the deluxe version is 2.4 watts instead of 3 watts. If you are a fast ryder and only require power for lights than this may work for you. I charge a backup battery so I went watt setup.
#10
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,627
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3870 Post(s)
Liked 2,563 Times
in
1,577 Posts
I have the SP SV8, which is also designed for smaller wheels. With a B&M Eyc in front and B&M Toplight Line Small in back, I need to be going at least 4 MPH to get light. I'm okay with that, but if you want light sooner or might spend time actually riding below that threshold, I'd probably get the regular hub for bigger wheels.
The Sanyo/Panasonic hub on another bike makes light basically whenever the wheel is turning at all. My speedometer stops registering before the light stops, so I don't have a good way to measure the minimum speed...
The Sanyo/Panasonic hub on another bike makes light basically whenever the wheel is turning at all. My speedometer stops registering before the light stops, so I don't have a good way to measure the minimum speed...
__________________
RUSA #7498
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
Last edited by ThermionicScott; 12-14-21 at 07:22 PM.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,177
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3452 Post(s)
Liked 1,452 Times
in
1,131 Posts
With my regular 3 watt hubs, when I am cranking up a steep hill at 3.5 or 4 mph, my headlamp is flickering as each magnet moves past the armature. Even a 3 watt hub is not that great on slow uphills.
This is the touring forum, so rarely do we go touring after dark, but if you are out after dark and have steep uphills, the 2.4 watt hub might not be the best choice.
This is the touring forum, so rarely do we go touring after dark, but if you are out after dark and have steep uphills, the 2.4 watt hub might not be the best choice.
#12
I’m a little Surly
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Near the district
Posts: 2,422
Bikes: Two Cross Checks, a Karate Monkey, a Disc Trucker, and a VO Randonneur
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 699 Post(s)
Liked 1,294 Times
in
647 Posts
I have two widebodies and a 28 both all will charge my phone through the Cinq 5 plug plus and run a headlight and tail light. I don't know if the widebody actually builds a stronger wheel but the cost difference is minimal and should technically be stronger so..
I will say it's more a a PITA to remove the wheel because the space is tight between the fork leg and connectors.
You can sort of see with this picture that I roll the connectors a bit forward to help with the space issue but it’s not really clean
I will say it's more a a PITA to remove the wheel because the space is tight between the fork leg and connectors.
You can sort of see with this picture that I roll the connectors a bit forward to help with the space issue but it’s not really clean
Last edited by Germany_chris; 12-15-21 at 03:21 AM.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 2,595
Bikes: 1992 Serotta Colorado II,Co-Motion Speedster, Giant Escape Hybrid, 1977 Schwinn Super Le Tour
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 455 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 112 Times
in
85 Posts
OP here.
I am notic, I think, that the wire is larger on the Son hub vs. my current SP hubs. Am missing something?
I am notic, I think, that the wire is larger on the Son hub vs. my current SP hubs. Am missing something?
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 8,891
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2594 Post(s)
Liked 1,922 Times
in
1,206 Posts
Wire typically comes with the light, or is supplied by the user. Anything that'll carry half an amp will work. 16 or 18 gauge wire has worked fine for the last 9-10 years for me, but some lights can be supplied with a small coax cable if you want it armored.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,177
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3452 Post(s)
Liked 1,452 Times
in
1,131 Posts
You need two conductors, the wire you currently have should be adequate, regardless of what it is. I usually use a twisted pair of wires that are heavier gauge than supplied because I have had a few bad experiences with the thin wire common on wired computers. I am guessing that the wire I typically used from the hub is somewhere between 18 and 22 gauge, bought from a hardware store, two individual wires twisted together.
But as Pdlamb noted, you usually get wire with the light. I just prefer a heavier gauge in case I snag the wire on something.
I started a thread several months ago on the wiring job I did on my rando bike, that was mostly heavier wire. That thread with lots of photos is at:
https://www.bikeforums.net/electroni...b-charger.html
It is my understanding that you need two 4.8mm female spade connectors for the Son hub instead of your SP/Shimano type plug. That should be the only difference. Where you buy the hub you might want to see if they sell the connectors. (Check on Peter White page if I have the spade connector size correct, I did not check that.)
If you might use that wheel on more than one bike, you might need a few spare spade connectors.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,415
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 612 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 387 Times
in
270 Posts
Son uses a 3mm coaxial cable for there wiring. Peter White Cycles sells it in a packaged set or by the foot. He will also build you a made to order wiring harness on request.
#18
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Carbondale (nicer than it sounds), Colorado
Posts: 96
Bikes: Several Italian bikes from the 50's - 83, 4 English Lightweights (1949-1970), Riding bikes-Trek 760, SOMA Triple Cross gravel bike, SOMA SAGA DC touring bike, Pivot Les Fat for winter riding and long distance bikepacking. One modern Carbon bike.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times
in
32 Posts
Rare Earth Quick Disconnect Magnet
Changing a tire in an uncomfortable situation (rain, cold, dark, etc.) can lead to doing things too fast. Which can lead to removing the wheel without remembering the spade connectors... which can pull them off the wire, etc. So soldering the wires to a quick disconnect rare earth magnet (can't seem to find the ones I use, but they are out there) solves that problem. But... remember to use an electric grease, the kind used for car batteries, etc. on the inside of the mated pairs. They will corrode over time and stop conducting current. Have experiences both scenarios but have to say the quick discount magnets are the way to go.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 702
Bikes: 1978 Bruce Gordon, 1977 Lippy, 199? Lippy tandem, Bike Friday NWT, 1982 Trek 720, 2012 Rivendell Atlantis, 1983 Bianchi Specialissima?
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 345 Post(s)
Liked 174 Times
in
106 Posts
Changing a tire in an uncomfortable situation (rain, cold, dark, etc.) can lead to doing things too fast. Which can lead to removing the wheel without remembering the spade connectors... which can pull them off the wire, etc. So soldering the wires to a quick disconnect rare earth magnet (can't seem to find the ones I use, but they are out there) solves that problem. But... remember to use an electric grease, the kind used for car batteries, etc. on the inside of the mated pairs. They will corrode over time and stop conducting current. Have experiences both scenarios but have to say the quick discount magnets are the way to go.
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Carbondale (nicer than it sounds), Colorado
Posts: 96
Bikes: Several Italian bikes from the 50's - 83, 4 English Lightweights (1949-1970), Riding bikes-Trek 760, SOMA Triple Cross gravel bike, SOMA SAGA DC touring bike, Pivot Les Fat for winter riding and long distance bikepacking. One modern Carbon bike.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times
in
32 Posts
Yes, Dyna-Snap... that's it. And, yes, they have gone up in price! Did a portion of the new Wild West tour across the backroads of Montana in the summer of 2021 and noticed things were not charging as usual. I pulled apart the magnets and could see a thin layer of darker, corroded material. So I scraped off / out as much as I could, then stoped at a roadside auto-repair place and they gave me a dab of that special grease. Problem solved. So before even a short tour, I check them to make sure.
#21
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: San Diego, California USA
Posts: 351
Bikes: 1974 Masi GC, 1982 Trek 728 (aka 720), 1992 Trek Multitrack 750
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 118 Post(s)
Liked 219 Times
in
139 Posts
Yes, wide body is preferable. I have two wide body SON hubs. The first one I purchased from Peter White twenty years ago (before LED headlights had been developed), still going strong.