YoughRiverDavid

Hello,

I figured I would start my own thread. I added most of these comments in the Checkpoint alignment thread. Sorry for duplication - but hoping to get some airplay/responses.

I am going shopping again on Friday. Does anybody have comments between the 2022 Checkpoint ALR5 and the 2022 SLR5. Is the increased price worth the jump to the carbon frame? I mostly ride rail-trail and my long ride would be about 40 miles (Connellsville to Ohiopyle round trip on the GAP).

I am not a speed demon. I am not a lightweight rider. Everybody says carbon will not fail or crack if fit falls over only upon a crash. Will I need to treat the bike with kid gloves? The carbon SL does come with isospeed - a carbon seat post, and the down tube storage - I am sure I can stuff something in there.

I liked the "white" ALR5. Going to look at the Mercury Satin SL5. (I have seen the Red SL5 - I it looks good at first glance but also says "steal me" - at least my wife said that.)

I may go with two wheelsets- a slow and a fast. 38-42mm for casual rides with my wife and a narrow (32-38) tire for "dry day" longer solo faster rides. Also, for my future SIL to borrow when he is in town without his BMC Team Machine - he knocks off 50 miles on trail/road rides. He is neutral on the buy.

While shopping a few weeks ago one of the Trek store managers said he was upgrading his older model carbon checkpoint to a 2022 - he thought it was worth it because of the geometry change. He and another shopper (who also has a carbon Checkpoint with the Aeolus 3V wheels) both recommended the carbon over aluminum if I can swing the prices.

This may well be my "last" n+1 bike. (I say that today.)

mstateglfr 

Adding links so people dont just ramble without knowing what they are saying.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...alr-5/p/35172/
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...=grey_greydark
$800 difference.

Carbon option gives you-
- internal downtube storage
- isospeed decoupler
- dropper post compatible
- 8mm offset seatpost instead of 12mm offset
- .11 pounds lighter

I have never longed for internal tube storage, but a couple guys I ride with have it and use it.
I have never longed for a decoupled frame, but it is certainly popular.

These are basically the same bikes except for the internal storage, moving isospeed bits, and frame material. All components are the same. If those differences are worth $800 to you, then grab the SL5.

As for the reliability and robustness of carbon fiber, at this point it really isnt an issue- gravel bikes and mountain bikes are made with it- it can be a strong frame material. Trek is a mass producer and does not make super light bikes so they certainly arent skirting the edge of safety here. There is rubber armor on the carbon downtube too, for peace of mind with rock strikes.

blakcloud

I posted in the other thread but deleted it and re posted it here. Though I will say, mstateglfr's advice is excellent.

Which ever bike you choose you will be happy as they are both great bikes. It is a win/win in this case. I won't say one rides better than the other, they just ride differently. The carbon bike does have a slight edge in features such as the ISO speed and the storage box but it doesn't mean you will enjoy the aluminum bike any less. On a gravel bike I am not convinced that frame material is the be all/end all in ride compliance, but it is the large volume tires that bring the comfort. With that said I am a carbon fan. I love the lightweight aspect of it, the sound of the road/trail under me, knowing I have the latest technology, knowing I never will want to upgrade the frame and small part comfort when using less volume tires.

Having two sets of wheels is a good idea, I do this myself. You need to factor in the cost of new brake rotors, cassette, tires and tubes. It is best to have the same type of hubs so that you don't need to re-adjust derailleurs or brakes but I have different brands and don't have this problem with different wheels.

For me, it really comes down to money. How much are you willing to spend? Can you afford to buy the carbon and if you can afford it should that money be spent better somewhere else? The price difference between both bikes plus the second set of wheels can get up there.

The last point is about regret. Are you the type of person who has regret in purchases. Do you ever say "I should have bought. . ." Use your car as an example, do you say I should have purchased those extra features so I regret what I bought. This has come up in my own decision making process. I was looking to purchase a new gravel bike with mechanical because it is what I can afford but decided that I would regret it because I love Di2. Right now Di2 is in short supply like my disposable income right now. So, I will wait and save, defer purchasing a new bike so I don't have regret.

This is only my opinion and it would be good to hear others and their thoughts on this subject. Good luck with your decision.

force10

I went with the ALR. I knew I was going to want better wheels and the $800 went toward those.

The weight difference is hardly worth mentioning. The frame storage would be nice but the checkpoint is festooned with mounting points on the frame. Isopeed also might be nice, but I wonder how it holds up over the years - not to say it wont, but I wonder. In any event, I am planning on a new seatpost for additional compliance (note, it is unclear to me why the setback is diffrenet between the SL and ALR). Some people dont care for aluminum rigidity/buzz on bikes, but I dont think it is much of an issue on a gravel bike with 40 mil tubeless tires.

I dont care for the stock handlebar, so that is going to have to be replaced. The stock saddle is already replaced. I will likely also want to go with the grx 810 48/31 chainset over the 46/30. $800 savings makes all that easier.

The durablity of carbon frames isnt really an issue. It is actually more easily repaired than aluminum. And I wouldnt worry too much about Trek not standing behind the frame. There is probably an environmental argument in favor of aluminum, if that is a purchasing consideration for you.

Im not fast or lightweight either, but I plan to race with it anyhow.

I bought mine without being able to to test it or to ride the SL as a comparison. If your shop has both, go do that - thats a no-brainer there. That will tell you reliably more than the shop manager or another stranger.

Ultimately, I dont wonder whether I should have purchased the SL5 over the ALR. I do sometimes wonder a little bit whether the Domane SL5 might have worked out better with a grx rear derailleur but...whatever. Life is full of what-ifs.

YoughRiverDavid

I picked the Mercury Satin SL5!

I liked the "look" of the "white" ALR5 more than the "Satin Mercury SL5". As mentioned above - I did not want to join the red bike club. I'll reserve my "reds" for my cars. (When are they shipping my TrackBred Toyota GR86 MT?)

I rode both theALR5 and the SL5 back to back around the shopping complex parking lot. I know not the best venue for test ride. I could tell a subtle difference between the aluminum and carbon. The carbon seemed a touch softer. I thought maybe tire pressure was different - but it was about the same - a little less in the AL.

I would be happy with either bike. Since this has been a long journey to find and select a bike - I decided with urging from my lovely wife to "splurge" and get the carbon framed bike. (I doubt I will ever resell it - not my thing - but I figured it may hold value better.)

I picked the size 58 over the 56. I am a smidge over 6' with a longer torso and this bike seems to offer a good balance. If I was a racer I may have opted for the 56. There was some concern about the length of seat post exposure on the 56. With a carbon post I figured to go with less exposure. (I know that probably translates to less flex.) The 58 has the 175mm crank arms vs the 172.5 on the 56.

I need to get a few longer rides to test the saddle - the store manager says he kept the stock saddle on his.

I have no comments on the bar. It seems livable to me.

I happened to have a pair of the Bontrager Pro 3Vs so they are on the bike with the stock GR1 40mm tires set up tubeless. This is my first step into the tubeless arena. (I am going to use the stock rims for a road tire or similar setup.) I need to spend some time on tire wheel setup. Maybe put GK38's on the 3Vs over the summer instead of the 40mm GR1's. (Do I hear 35mm? I don't ride the rough stuff.)

MySL5 is stock with the 2x Praxis setup in front. The local Trek shop - they were great to work with - were going to swap it out for the Shimano GRX on the ALR5 - but it is not just an arm and cog swap - the bottom brackets need to be pulled. After some thought I stayed with the Praxis - it does have the 48 ring. I think I will upgrade as the poster above to the GRX800 to stick with the larger 48 cog.

On my first short ride on my local trail the bike definitely has a different ride quality. I'm not sure how much of this is going from a 30mm tire on my Lemond 853 framed Propad to the 40mm GR1s on the Checkpoint. I am used to the "feel" of every small piece of gravel and trail imperfections. To the sailing along ride on this bike. It will take some time to adjust my bearings. Going from the 53/39 on the Poprad to the 48/32 is also a noticeable change - it does seem like I have less "top end". (I have not checked gearing ratios - again - just "feel".) I had the chain on the large drive sprocket and in the smaller rings on the rear drive cassette. I thought to myself don't have many gears left down there. I mostly ride rail trails so "climbing" is not a thing I worry about. I will have to mentally adjust my "cadence".

Thanks to all that offered feedback.

Just though I would offer my thoughts for others to review. Looking forward to getting on the bike and off the research project of bike shopping

David

mstateglfr 

What Praxis crank is on there? I have a 48/32 Praxis Zayante on my gravel bike and it is absolutely just as nice as any Shimano crank I own or have owned. The Zayante weighs a few grams less than a GRX800 48/31 crankset and shifting is fast and reliable. If you really want the letters 'GRX' on your crank, cool I guess. Not too sure it would be an upgrade though.
If its a Praxis Alba 48/32 crank, then it weighs about 45g more than a GRX 48/31 crankset. Thats 1.5oz more. Again, it is tough for me use the term upgrade here.