cruiserandmax

I have been riding on this old Sugino cranket forever (24-34-42T) and the rings are getting worn. I love the combination. What is the most affordable way to replace it? Looking for just rings I can't seem to even find 4-hole (65mm diameter) rings to match these cranks. Should I just replace the whole crankset? Any suggestions on the most affordable way to keep me going on this 80's/90's steel tube hard rock beast that I hope to keep riding forever?

cxwrench

Oh, I don't know...maybe talk to a bike shop?

SoSmellyAir

Are you sure that those are not 64 mm BCD rings?

"Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Crank/Chainring Bolt Circle Diameter Crib Sheet"

Here are some links to 64 mm BCD chain rings:

24T: Truvativ/SRAM 24Tx64mm Chainring | Jenson USA

Others: 64 Bicycle Chainrings - Modern Bike

cruiserandmax

You're right, they aer 64mm! Thanks for all the links- just what I was after.

Andrew R Stewart 

Sometimes a new crankset is cheaper than 3 rings are. Sometimes a new crankset will need a different length BB. Sometimes the old BB is an OK size for the new crankset but is already worn (and might want replacement soon too). It's an availability and a math problem.

BTW the era of triple chainrings seems to be passing. If you really like this type of gearing (and I most certainly do too) I suggest getting a second, back up, set while you can. Andy

HillRider

+1 SRAM never offered a triple crank and Shimano and Campy have discontinued all of their road triples. They seems to be doing the same with MTB/Trekking cranks and have never offered a Gravel triple. In fact the current fad is for 1X so even doubles are endangered.

I have FC-5703 (105) triple cranks on two bikes and FC-4603 (Tiagra) triples on two others. Seeing the way things were going, a couple of years ago I found two NOS FC-5703 cranks for sale at attractive prices at couple of on-line shops I bought them both. They are sitting on my parts shelf waiting for they day they are needed.

mdarnton

Looks like a whole new crank w/rings is pretty cheap
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...hp?category=64

alcjphil

Well, the OP is asking about mountain bike triples which are quite different than road triples, much lower gearing. My touring bike has been set up with a Raceface Turbine mountain bike triple, 42-32-22 which is perfect for the sort of use the OP probably needs. I will probably never wear this out since I don't ride this bike all that often. When I bought this crank, the cost of the individual chainrings would have been almost as much as the complete crank. The reason for this is simple. For a distributor to be able to provide individual chainrings they have to carry a huge inventory. Inventory that doesn't move costs money, capital that is tied up not generating revenue. I worked for a company that was a Raceface distributor. We had literally hundreds of chainrings in our warehouse that were waiting for a buyer. No wonder they cost so much to the end user

Andrew R Stewart 

And for us small framed road riders mountain triples tend to be rather wide, "Q" factor and all. It's sad for some of us that a method that has worked for millions over the last many decades is no longer considered financially workable. Can you say cart before the horse? Andy

cxwrench

Something must be wrong w/ that derailleur, the gap at the tail is enormous.

t2p

wow that's a lot of triples

little surprised - especially with availability of 10 cogs / 11t small cog and compact cranksets

50/34 crank and 11-28 cassette ... ? ... 11-30 .. ? ... 11-32 ... ? ... 11-34 ... ? ... 12-30 ? ... should provide the gearing for the climbs and descents
.

alcjphil

Not the gap between the tail end of the derailleur and chain stay. Look very carefully at the gap between the chain stay and the tail of the derailleur. In the big ring the gap is not that big. When shifted down to the small ring the gap is tiny. That front derailleur is as low as it can go. It is a mountain bike derailleur on a touring bike with a relaxed seat tube angle. of course it will not be optimally positioned. However, I take your point, I will look into whether I can move that front derailleur a bit lower

alcjphil

I am sorry, I almost always totally agree with anything you say but this time I didn't get the point of what you wanted to say. Are you able to explain in more detail? Please?

Andrew R Stewart 

Sorry for my lack of better description. MtB cranks generally have wider "Q" dimensions that road cranks of the same ring counts. So a rider who is of narrow hips/"Q" preference can find the wider spread of a MtB crank to be too much for comfy pedaling. As the trend of bike design has changed over the years the "Q" has increased bit by bit and now can be far wider than my hips/knees like. This is the prime reason why I'll not own a Fat Tired bike.

The increase of "Q" is driven by a few factors. Frame design being #1. The, questionable, goal of massive stiffness and or suspension (note the ironic here) along with material considerations has seen the clearance between cranks/rings and stays become challenging. Add in really wide tires and the resulting cog set shift further from the centerline and more "Q" is had.

I admit that I am bound to a fit and riding style that is not the current fashion. I am ok with the fact that how I want to set up a bike is being left behind by the industry. Not happy but accept it. Just like the triple crank (or even double) are being dropped by many brands and the lack of making the older replacement rings and such.

So write off my poor previous post to ranting, like this one. Andy

CliffordK

Your chain is looking mighty stretched.

You might try a new chain and keep riding.

Your rear cassette or freewheel could be TOAST!!!

veganbikes

So firstly clean your drivetrain more often, all of that dirt and gritty greasy grime is wearing things out faster. Secondly replace your chain and cassette or freewheel with regularity ideally before it is totally worn out so you will save other components from extra wear. Thirdly make sure to properly lubricate those components which includes that first part.

In your case with the chainrings and being cheaper, a new crank is the way to go to save on initial costs. Certainly new chainrings of highest quality could have the potential to last longer with the proper care listed above but they will be more expensive initially. A new crank though will probably make the most sense and with that I would do a new bottom bracket new length or style needed or not, I would also pull apart the rest of the bike and clean it all and re-grease it and re-install it. If you really love the bike of course. If not then do something different.

cxwrench

Sorry, not your photo but the OP's.

bboy314

https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/fc-s600-a1

Sram s600. May need the appropriate length bottom bracket too, and probably new chain and cassette as well.