For the love of English 3 speeds...
ambulatory senior
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This is a three speed. 1954 aw aluminum shell on a Carlton Raleigh super course at the local Aldi's.
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The big difference between an industrial roller chain and a bicycle chain is the presence of a hardened steel bushing connecting the side plates of the skinny link of the chain. The rollers and the pins wear against this bushing. This makes for a durable chain that is not very flexible laterally, which causes problems for modern derailleur setups. As a consequence most (all?) modern bike chains, including 1/8" for some reason, are manufactured without the bushings. If your three speed has its original chain it will be a bushed roller chain.
-Carl
The dropped
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Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
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Miche and Izumi track chains have bushings, and I recently bought a ⅛" chain from KMC with bushings (marketed as a single speed chain). I used the KMC chain for the Schwinn Racer because the Union chain on it was very stretched after a thorough cleaning, but the original chain on the Hercules measured like a new chain, even after an Evaporust bath.
That said, if you can get an industrial ½" pitch chain, go for it I guess. It's not a secret that bicycle-specific consumables see a hefty markup over their industrial and automotive twins.
If I had to venture a guess, an industrial chain will have little to no rust prevention compared to a basic bicycle chain. Bicycle chains are likely only second to chainsaw chains in the amount of abuse they normally see.
That said, if you can get an industrial ½" pitch chain, go for it I guess. It's not a secret that bicycle-specific consumables see a hefty markup over their industrial and automotive twins.
If I had to venture a guess, an industrial chain will have little to no rust prevention compared to a basic bicycle chain. Bicycle chains are likely only second to chainsaw chains in the amount of abuse they normally see.
On the road
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I use SRAM PC-1 chains. They are a bushingless chain, but my experience is they are of reasonable weight, decent durability, and they run very smoothly.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
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Salubrious,
3speedslow,
When I bought the hub, I removed the cones and driver, resurfaced the cones, filled the hub with SAE30, regreased the bearings with Phil wood grease, and put it back together. I know I had the wheel built during the pandemic. By the time I finished the build, I was basically unable to ride. I am just now getting out now maybe 5 miles at a pop.
I will shoot some oil in before I ride it again.
3speedslow,
When I bought the hub, I removed the cones and driver, resurfaced the cones, filled the hub with SAE30, regreased the bearings with Phil wood grease, and put it back together. I know I had the wheel built during the pandemic. By the time I finished the build, I was basically unable to ride. I am just now getting out now maybe 5 miles at a pop.
I will shoot some oil in before I ride it again.
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My latest folly- 1935 Raleigh Sports
I acquired this in boxes about 7 years ago. First I assembled it to see if the frame had any problems. It was OK but the finish was deplorable. Note the slack seat tube and headset angles. The geometry seems to have a lot in common with rod brake machines, but this was never a rod brake bike.
So I slowly went about the process of refinishing everything. It had been repainted with rattle cans several times. There was only a hint at the original graphics. The 'net wasn't all that helpful at first, but over time we found what the graphics looked like. Jeff Bock did the paint.
This bike is equipped with a 'barrel shifter' also known as the 'K Pratt' rather than the traditional quadrant shifter. Its very simple and relays on the cam shape with landings for indexing. Its very easy to operate. I used a conventional shifter cable with a brass end I swagged on for the adjuster end at the hub. Also pre war, no 'white tail'. Note the rim color- front and rear are stainless, with stainless spokes. I was unaware these were available before the war, but the original owner might have had them changed out?
The bars were originally black. Note the graphic, different stem and headset, which is more complex than the post war versions.
The headset is different too. The Heron doesn't have a rivet in its eye. Beneath it was revealed the original headset color as seen.
The drum brakes were an option at the time. Fancy! I added the wing nuts.
I do not know what pedals these are, but they are British (having Whitworth threads on the shafts for the blocks). They have alloy hubs! The blocks are new.
Having drum brakes of course the rear hub is a KB ('5' denotes 1935).
The Brooks badge is heavily embossed.
The word 'patent' is faintly visible on the brake levers. They are universal, no left and right as seen in post war bikes.
And it is 'All Steel'.
This is what the only graphic that was still visible actually looks like. Only the top 1/2" or so was intact.
The ride is very regal- much like a rod brake bike in that regard. I'm still sorting out minor issues
So I slowly went about the process of refinishing everything. It had been repainted with rattle cans several times. There was only a hint at the original graphics. The 'net wasn't all that helpful at first, but over time we found what the graphics looked like. Jeff Bock did the paint.
This bike is equipped with a 'barrel shifter' also known as the 'K Pratt' rather than the traditional quadrant shifter. Its very simple and relays on the cam shape with landings for indexing. Its very easy to operate. I used a conventional shifter cable with a brass end I swagged on for the adjuster end at the hub. Also pre war, no 'white tail'. Note the rim color- front and rear are stainless, with stainless spokes. I was unaware these were available before the war, but the original owner might have had them changed out?
The bars were originally black. Note the graphic, different stem and headset, which is more complex than the post war versions.
The headset is different too. The Heron doesn't have a rivet in its eye. Beneath it was revealed the original headset color as seen.
The drum brakes were an option at the time. Fancy! I added the wing nuts.
I do not know what pedals these are, but they are British (having Whitworth threads on the shafts for the blocks). They have alloy hubs! The blocks are new.
Having drum brakes of course the rear hub is a KB ('5' denotes 1935).
The Brooks badge is heavily embossed.
The word 'patent' is faintly visible on the brake levers. They are universal, no left and right as seen in post war bikes.
And it is 'All Steel'.
This is what the only graphic that was still visible actually looks like. Only the top 1/2" or so was intact.
The ride is very regal- much like a rod brake bike in that regard. I'm still sorting out minor issues
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Phyllo-buster
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Folly?
Fine work you did, wow. The premium components are the grace notes on a wonderful early bike. Congrats!
Senior Member
Holy hole! My 1968 Austrian 3 speed hub has an oil port! New project and I never spun the wheel around. Just like looking at the graphics. All this time I’ve been putting oil in through the chain pull axle side.
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Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Dutch, methinks. Never heard of the brand. $75.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...18071299674232
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...18071299674232
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Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Phyllo-buster
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Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
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Nice bike in 23" at a super price ($50 in MA), but it's a good thing they did not take a flash photo with all that reflective tape on the thing.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...49997842034051
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...49997842034051
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Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
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Looks like all the Raleigh action today is in MA.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...18728154941507
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...18728154941507
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I wonder how the Robin Hoods stack up to the other models. Mine was acquired new in 1965, still have it. Very light frame, and for all I've done with it, pretty tough too.
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I wish I had some. I just this week took it apart for a cleaning and re-lube. The back story is it was my 1st bike. I acquired it in 1965 in Lancaster, PA. It was my ticket to the world at large, living miles in the country. After I got my driver's license in 68, I last rode it around 1969 then I was off to the military. It stayed at my mother's place for about 49 years and then to a storage unit. I finally got it out to Oregon about 2 years ago. Unfortunately the lighting disappeared as well the tire pump and rear rat trap rack; and some minor damage such as bent fender stays and 1 or 2 broken spokes. I was fastidious about maintenance when I used it. Camping, touring, delivery routes; it went everywhere. Working on the bottom bracket I found this:
Sir Robin took a hit in the arse. This was NOT how I left him.
There's rumors it was borrowed. (though against my wishes when asked several years ago)
Sir Robin took a hit in the arse. This was NOT how I left him.
There's rumors it was borrowed. (though against my wishes when asked several years ago)
Last edited by Greg R; 09-20-21 at 10:53 PM.
ambulatory senior
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Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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Newbie
I have a raleigh courier with a 19T sprocket and want to change it for a 22T, but I'm already over half way down the dropout. Can I just add a new link to the chain to extend it? I only recently put a new chain on and kept the spare links
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