Search
Notices
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational) This has to be the most physically intense sport ever invented. It's high speed bicycle racing on a short off road course or riding the off pavement rides on gravel like : "Unbound Gravel". We also have a dedicated Racing forum for the Cyclocross Hard Core Racers.

Snow

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-30-21, 06:33 AM
  #1  
Noonievut
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 946
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 286 Post(s)
Liked 261 Times in 129 Posts
Snow

I’ve ridden on snow in one of two ways: first, renting fat bikes and getting out on mtb trails; second, on my gravel bike, on paved/gravel when it starts snowing and you hope you make it home safely.

I would like to try my gravel bike on snow, but I’m guessing everything has to be just right; I wanted to see if folks with more experience riding gravel bikes on snow have tips (including, don’t do it ).

I have all the winter riding gear and ride regularly when the roads are dry/safe.

Here are some things I’ve been thinking of:
- treaded tires with low pressure (I have Rene Herse Pumpkin Ridge, tubeless)
- maybe 1-2” of fresh snow, hopefully no ice anywhere
- get out before others so as to avoid riding over bumpy footprints and other ‘craters’ that make for a jarring experience
- where to ride, hmm, I have two rail trails I can drive to, though both are well used, so I would have to get there early after a fresh snowfall
Noonievut is offline  
Old 12-30-21, 07:39 AM
  #2  
chas58
Senior Member
 
chas58's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4,863

Bikes: too many of all kinds

Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1147 Post(s)
Liked 415 Times in 335 Posts
You have good ideas.

Getting out when it is fresh is best (I love going during a storm).
Old snow that has been walked on (or ridden on) is a pain.
Several trails around here are groomed for fat bikes). Not something I'd take a gravel bike on though.
I do like skinnier tires as they slice through the snow (were a fat tire acts as a snow plow, and you have to push the snow away).
Ice can be a problem - I've sprained an ankle and been off the bike for 6 weeks. Its the "clear" patches during freeze/thaw cycles that make the worst glare ice. Its actually better when things stay cold and don't thaw. Do be aware of flat surfaces in depression - these can be puddles that have frozen over with ice then covered with snow. You can't see the ice under the snow, but you will go down fast.

I like Schwalbe G-One, as they don't shed the snow and have surprising traction. snow sticks to itself better than it sticks to rubber.
Keep those feet warm. I use over boots, and there are some pretty effective heated shoe inserts (one time use kinda thing).
chas58 is offline  
Old 12-30-21, 07:48 AM
  #3  
chas58
Senior Member
 
chas58's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4,863

Bikes: too many of all kinds

Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1147 Post(s)
Liked 415 Times in 335 Posts
chas58 is offline  
Likes For chas58:
Old 12-30-21, 08:11 AM
  #4  
Noonievut
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 946
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 286 Post(s)
Liked 261 Times in 129 Posts
Thanks, chas58 . While that photo is pretty, I wouldn’t fee comfortable riding on that road...
Noonievut is offline  
Old 12-30-21, 09:01 AM
  #5  
Kapusta
Advanced Slacker
 
Kapusta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210

Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2761 Post(s)
Liked 2,534 Times in 1,433 Posts
Originally Posted by Noonievut
I’ve ridden on snow in one of two ways: first, renting fat bikes and getting out on mtb trails; second, on my gravel bike, on paved/gravel when it starts snowing and you hope you make it home safely.

I would like to try my gravel bike on snow, but I’m guessing everything has to be just right; I wanted to see if folks with more experience riding gravel bikes on snow have tips (including, don’t do it ).

I have all the winter riding gear and ride regularly when the roads are dry/safe.

Here are some things I’ve been thinking of:
- treaded tires with low pressure (I have Rene Herse Pumpkin Ridge, tubeless)
- maybe 1-2” of fresh snow, hopefully no ice anywhere
- get out before others so as to avoid riding over bumpy footprints and other ‘craters’ that make for a jarring experience
- where to ride, hmm, I have two rail trails I can drive to, though both are well used, so I would have to get there early after a fresh snowfall
As far as just riding regular gravel tires (like the Pumpkin Ridge) on snowy roads.... it can work great or it can be a slippery mess, and it can change at any point in time.

But "snow" can mean a whole lot of different things. Snowy roads like the one pictured above some studded winter tire would be nice. I have a set of studded Schwalbe Marathon Winter tires that do great in just a inch or two of snow, be it fluff, packed down, or icy. Once the snow has any depth, I want my fat bike… but That’s more trail riding than on the road.

Last edited by Kapusta; 12-30-21 at 09:48 AM.
Kapusta is offline  
Old 12-30-21, 09:08 AM
  #6  
Hiro11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,608

Bikes: 2022 Specialized Allez Sprint custom build, 2019 Giant Defy Advanced Pro 0, 2018 Seven Mudhoney Pro custom build, 2017 Raleigh Stuntman, various others

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 782 Post(s)
Liked 475 Times in 238 Posts
Lots of good advice here. I ride my fatbike a lot in the snow, in fact I did so yesterday.
2"-4" of fresh snow is the best.
Fatbikes are marginally better in snow, but you can do almost as much on a regular mountain, cross or gravel bike.
Ice is a much bigger problem than snow. Freeze/thaw cycles are a killer, especially on pavement as the water can't drain away as easily and will quickly refreeze.
Studded tires are a really good idea if you plan on riding a lot in the snow. The Schwalbe Marathon Winter studded tires are really durable, relatively affordable compared to other studded options and offer great grip.
Take care of your bike after any ride in the snow, especially if you ride on salty roads. Use a heavy waterproof lube (I like Finish Line Wet) on the chain and put some of it in all bolts to prevent them from rusting. T9 works great as a rust protectant as well. I like to use a garden sprayer filled with hot water to spray down the bike after each ride and then wipe everything down with a rag and some WD40.
Hiro11 is offline  
Old 12-30-21, 09:22 AM
  #7  
chaadster
Thread Killer
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 12,428

Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII, 23 3T Strada

Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3129 Post(s)
Liked 1,698 Times in 1,026 Posts
I’ve been riding dirt roads in winter for years, but don’t have a lot of experience, particularly for the fact that I’d choose to go out on those roads when the conditions were pretty good, which is to say below freezing and with a good layer of car formed hardpack snow. Like chas58 , I found the Schwalbe S-One / G-One Allround to be pretty good for that kind of stuff in relatively narrow 30c, which is what my bike, the Kinesis Racelight 4S, would fit at max. I could see that in some conditions I was getting outclassed by those with wider, knobbier rubber, but I managed pretty well. I was a winter commuter, on pavement, for 25 years, so I developed good handling and surface reading skills, which helped out on winter dirt roads. The Kenda Kwick K879 was my go-to winter pavement tire for about 15 years, and what a tire, but that’s another story…

Fast forward to spring of ‘21, when I pick up my first proper gravel bike, primarily so that I could fit wider rubber. This is my first winter, then, on 42c— yeah, I’m still skewing towards dry, hardpack conditions; we seem to get less snow every year!— and I’ve only ridden in dirt road snow twice now, both times quite fresh over a thin layer of mud. I decided to run the Ultradynamico Rosé JFF, and so far, it has handled those conditions just fine, offering more sure-footedness than I remember from the Schwalbe, so I’m happy.

I’d closely considered the American Classic Krumbein before choosing the Ultradynamico, which I did largely for lower weight, but also for that supple casing; I run Herse Bon Jon Extralights for summer gravel, and Switchback on the gravel cruiser, so I’m pretty addicted. However, at just $35/tire, the American Classic rubber is really attractive and makes experimenting with tread patterns and sizes as affordable as it gets for a quality tire. They’re on sale at their AmClassic.com site for $31.50 right now! I guess I gotta go buy something…
chaadster is offline  
Old 12-30-21, 09:48 AM
  #8  
rumrunn6
Senior Member
 
rumrunn6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 29,546

Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0

Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5223 Post(s)
Liked 3,579 Times in 2,341 Posts
check the winter subforum, bunch-o-nutz over there ... ;-)
rumrunn6 is offline  
Old 12-30-21, 08:32 PM
  #9  
dwmckee
Senior Member
 
dwmckee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,468

Bikes: Co-Motion Cappuccino Tandem,'88 Bob Jackson Touring, Co-Motion Cascadia Touring, Open U.P., Ritchie Titanium Breakaway, Frances Cycles SmallHaul cargo bike. Those are the permanent ones; others wander in and out of the stable occasionally as well.

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 339 Times in 229 Posts
Hah, we were just on a snowy gravel bike ride 3 days ago in N Central PA; it was wet slushy stuff. IMHO, riding on a gravel bike in snow is best when early in the season and the surfaces underneath are still a bit warm so no ice has formed and your tires can get down to the traction underneath. Best to avoid ice and deep snow on the gravel bike. You cannot get tires on a gravel bike that are wide enough to stay on top of the snow so better to have a 35 - 40 mm tire that cuts down to the better traction easily, and probably ride a well-treaded cross mud tire with decent cleats. The best thing is you will be the only gravel bike out there most likely and you can dust any fat bikes lurking about!
dwmckee is offline  
Likes For dwmckee:
Old 12-30-21, 10:12 PM
  #10  
Russ Roth
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: South Shore of Long Island
Posts: 2,785

Bikes: 2010 Carrera Volans, 2015 C-Dale Trail 2sl, 2017 Raleigh Rush Hour, 2017 Blue Proseccio, 1992 Giant Perigee, 80s Gitane Rallye Tandem

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1079 Post(s)
Liked 1,019 Times in 719 Posts
I've taken to studded only; transitioning from a partially clear/partially slushy small uphill in the sun to just over the top, out of the sun, and a complete sheet of ice that took the bike out from under me and caused my head to just brush the guard rail convinced me. If there's snow there's ice somewhere and you go down fast when its black ice you can't see. Studded Hakkas changed everything for winter riding. Though fat bike and low pressure might be different.
Russ Roth is offline  
Likes For Russ Roth:
Old 12-31-21, 08:02 AM
  #11  
rumrunn6
Senior Member
 
rumrunn6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 29,546

Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0

Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5223 Post(s)
Liked 3,579 Times in 2,341 Posts
Originally Posted by Russ Roth
my head to just brush the guard rail
yikes! the human body doesn't mix well w/ guard rails
rumrunn6 is offline  
Old 12-31-21, 08:53 AM
  #12  
Kapusta
Advanced Slacker
 
Kapusta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210

Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2761 Post(s)
Liked 2,534 Times in 1,433 Posts
Originally Posted by Russ Roth
I've taken to studded only; transitioning from a partially clear/partially slushy small uphill in the sun to just over the top, out of the sun, and a complete sheet of ice that took the bike out from under me and caused my head to just brush the guard rail convinced me. If there's snow there's ice somewhere and you go down fast when its black ice you can't see. Studded Hakkas changed everything for winter riding. Though fat bike and low pressure might be different.
In my experience, if the ice is rough it does help a little, but on a smooth ice… nope.
Kapusta is offline  
Old 12-31-21, 12:22 PM
  #13  
ThermionicScott 
working on my sandal tan
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,627

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)

Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3870 Post(s)
Liked 2,563 Times in 1,577 Posts
Once there's frozen water of any kind on the ground, I'm on studded tires exclusively.

Since it only recently snowed in my area, yesterday's ride was good for recalibrating expectations... sections of heavy snow 3-4" deep brought my 1.9" tires to a halt and I couldn't get going again. A fat bike would probably have worked there. Other sections of 1-2" deep heavy snow were doable with some effort.

It's hard to get as many outdoor miles in the winter, but they can really count!
__________________
Originally Posted by chandltp
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline  
Old 12-31-21, 06:19 PM
  #14  
Noonievut
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 946
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 286 Post(s)
Liked 261 Times in 129 Posts
I’ve contemplated a fat bike over the years, but here in Ontario (just outside Toronto) we don’t get a lot of snow.

I got out tonight, with lights as it was dark, and it was 5C and the roads were wet, not slippery. It was perfect, and is like half the reason I bought such a bike with wider tires (I wouldn’t have done this ride on my road bike with 25’s). These conditions this time of year are far more frequent than ideal snow conditions.
Noonievut is offline  
Old 12-31-21, 07:17 PM
  #15  
ThermionicScott 
working on my sandal tan
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,627

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)

Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3870 Post(s)
Liked 2,563 Times in 1,577 Posts
Originally Posted by Noonievut
I’ve contemplated a fat bike over the years, but here in Ontario (just outside Toronto) we don’t get a lot of snow.
That doesn't stop some folks in my area from riding them all year.
__________________
Originally Posted by chandltp
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline  
Old 01-01-22, 08:42 AM
  #16  
Kapusta
Advanced Slacker
 
Kapusta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210

Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2761 Post(s)
Liked 2,534 Times in 1,433 Posts
Originally Posted by Noonievut
I’ve contemplated a fat bike over the years, but here in Ontario (just outside Toronto) we don’t get a lot of snow.
.
I love my Fat Bike for a lot of reasons, but I would not get one if it were just for riding on snowy roads. Far better of with standard sized winter tires with studs, IMO.

Sure, if you are getting out when it is 4+" deep fresh stuff a fat bike is great, but most of the time I'm on roads, they are plowed or packed down before they get that deep.

Last edited by Kapusta; 01-01-22 at 08:46 AM.
Kapusta is offline  
Old 01-01-22, 09:33 AM
  #17  
Russ Roth
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: South Shore of Long Island
Posts: 2,785

Bikes: 2010 Carrera Volans, 2015 C-Dale Trail 2sl, 2017 Raleigh Rush Hour, 2017 Blue Proseccio, 1992 Giant Perigee, 80s Gitane Rallye Tandem

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1079 Post(s)
Liked 1,019 Times in 719 Posts
Originally Posted by rumrunn6
yikes! the human body doesn't mix well w/ guard rails
Nope, and it was so close I was seriously shaken envisioning what being 1-2" closer to the rail would have meant. Ordered studded the next day.
Russ Roth is offline  
Likes For Russ Roth:
Old 01-01-22, 03:31 PM
  #18  
pbass
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,186

Bikes: 2016 Surly Cross Check, 2019 Kona Rove ST

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 284 Post(s)
Liked 313 Times in 211 Posts
Originally Posted by dwmckee
You cannot get tires on a gravel bike that are wide enough to stay on top of the snow so better to have a 35 - 40 mm tire that cuts down to the better traction easily, and probably ride a well-treaded cross mud tire with decent cleats.
I found this to be true with my bikes--one has 650bx47 Senderos--very knobby for a "gravel" tire, tubeless, low psi. My bike with 700cx40 Nanos seems to do better!
pbass is offline  
Old 01-02-22, 06:03 PM
  #19  
dwmckee
Senior Member
 
dwmckee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,468

Bikes: Co-Motion Cappuccino Tandem,'88 Bob Jackson Touring, Co-Motion Cascadia Touring, Open U.P., Ritchie Titanium Breakaway, Frances Cycles SmallHaul cargo bike. Those are the permanent ones; others wander in and out of the stable occasionally as well.

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 339 Times in 229 Posts
Originally Posted by pbass
I found this to be true with my bikes--one has 650bx47 Senderos--very knobby for a "gravel" tire, tubeless, low psi. My bike with 700cx40 Nanos seems to do better!
If there is a decent surface underneath to grab then a narrower tire that will cut down to it more easily can often be a better answer. in sand or mud where there is not a good layer to grab easily close under the surface then you want to go the other way and use wider tires...
dwmckee is offline  
Old 01-03-22, 04:48 PM
  #20  
chas58
Senior Member
 
chas58's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4,863

Bikes: too many of all kinds

Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1147 Post(s)
Liked 415 Times in 335 Posts
Originally Posted by Russ Roth
I've taken to studded only; transitioning from a partially clear/partially slushy small uphill in the sun to just over the top, out of the sun, and a complete sheet of ice that took the bike out from under me and caused my head to just brush the guard rail convinced me. If there's snow there's ice somewhere and you go down fast when its black ice you can't see. Studded Hakkas changed everything for winter riding. Though fat bike and low pressure might be different.
Yeah, I checked the radar once, everything was clear for the next hour. I went out and it started drizzling. No problem, just made the roads wet. But a wet road and black ice look the same. I was JRA "just riding along" and suddenly I was on the ground (painfully). One of the problems with "gravel/dirt" is they freeze a bit diffently than paved roads. The pave roads were ice free, but gravel/dirt tends to hold onto the ice longer.

I rode home thinking I had bent my pedal or something - but on checking it out at home I realized that my pedal wasn't out of whack, my knee was. Oooof!

So yeah, studded tires.
chas58 is offline  
Likes For chas58:
Old 01-03-22, 04:54 PM
  #21  
chas58
Senior Member
 
chas58's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4,863

Bikes: too many of all kinds

Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1147 Post(s)
Liked 415 Times in 335 Posts
Since it only recently snowed in my area, yesterday's ride was good for recalibrating expectations... sections of heavy snow 3-4" deep brought my 1.9" tires to a halt and I couldn't get going again. A fat bike would probably have worked there. Other sections of 1-2" deep heavy snow were doable with some effort.
I find skinnier tires work a lot better in deep heavy snow, as they slice right through it. wide tires mean more snow has to be pushed out of the way.

Fat tires work on hard packed bumpy stuff where I need the flotation, but not in softer fresh snow. Skinny tires really don't work at all when the snow has been packed down with car's driving on in or pedestrians walking on it.
chas58 is offline  
Likes For chas58:
Old 01-10-22, 10:00 AM
  #22  
msu2001la
Senior Member
 
msu2001la's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chicago, IL, USA
Posts: 2,873
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1455 Post(s)
Liked 1,477 Times in 867 Posts
33mm tires:

msu2001la is offline  
Likes For msu2001la:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.