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Racer Tech Thread

Old 02-02-17, 10:40 AM
  #4551  
Hida Yanra
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given that a taller rear actually stabilizes the bike, the question seems to actually be about the front wheel.
I'd go with valygrl's suggestion and try it with a low profile front - the surface area difference between those two bikes is pretty significant.

I spent two years racing a narrow 60mm front and a box section rear (well, a 28mm deep PT setup, but w/e)
I was in some incredibly windy races with that setup and didn't get blown around, and I've never been a tremendous bike handler, but YMMV.

Fit being identical on a bike doesn't (as you've seen) translate across other characteristics - trail and weight distribution make a whole lot of difference.
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Old 02-02-17, 10:43 AM
  #4552  
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Originally Posted by carpediemracing View Post
I did this when I realized that the fastest wheels around were the TriSpoke
man - I still vividly remember the first time I swapped 32h 3x wheels for a trispoke/disc setup- there was a mild/medium breeze at the time, and when I turned on the gas.....

it felt like a totally different bike.
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Old 02-02-17, 02:50 PM
  #4553  
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Originally Posted by Doge View Post
A 16 spoke narrow 25 is likely as aero as a 20-24 spoke 25 wide 50 profile. Or close. There is a lot of focus on things that don't matter that much. I have it on good authority that spoke count matters more than profile these days.
Really? Interesting. Any links or studies you can share?

Originally Posted by carpediemracing View Post
I like function for looks. If it's functional I like it.
yeah... the first 2 setups look fine, that 3rd pic though...

Originally Posted by valygrl View Post
OK, so zero-dollar, zero-commitment testing option, take the front wheel off the rain bike, put it on the Cervelo, ride it in the wind. You have your answer about whether the wheel helps. If it does, you can keep riding that combo, or buy a prettier low profile front wheel. Does not have to be carbon, skinny alu wheels are plenty light, so it doesn't have to cost a lot. Since it's not your permanent set up, just live with the aesthetics those few times you use it.
Originally Posted by Hida Yanra View Post
given that a taller rear actually stabilizes the bike, the question seems to actually be about the front wheel.
I'd go with valygrl's suggestion and try it with a low profile front - the surface area difference between those two bikes is pretty significant.
Yeah, I'll probably try that - changing just the front wheel and the brake pads isn't too much work, so I'll give it a go. Thanks.
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Old 02-02-17, 03:09 PM
  #4554  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
I pulled up to race once and as I picked up my Zipp 404, the wind got it and lifted it so it was almost perpendicular to the ground. When that happened, I put the Zipps back in the car and went with my basic aluminum rims.
Parallel?

I did that once so decided to use the non-aero front I usually pack. Pulled out the wheel bag with my training clincher in it. It wasn't in there - it was my 60mm front. So I raced the 75mm because I don't notice much difference between the wide but sort of V shaped 60 and the wide U shaped 75 in wind.
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Old 02-02-17, 03:12 PM
  #4555  
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Originally Posted by scheibo View Post
yeah... the first 2 setups look fine, that 3rd pic though...

Yeah, I'll probably try that - changing just the front wheel and the brake pads isn't too much work, so I'll give it a go. Thanks.
I have a picture of a P/1 race of a guy that was super active in the race with an 808 front and a non-aero rear. I thought he flatted or something but ppl here said they know him, that's how he races. He also has a crazy low bar position.

I don't change pads between carbon and aluminum. I haven't trained much outside for the past two years but in 2010-11 I rode a lot outdoors on alum rims and raced on carbons, zero brake pad swaps, zero problems. Wore through 2+ sets of pads (KoolStop black). Currently on Koolstop salmon/black pads but I rarely train outside anymore so I don't brake on alum rims much.
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Old 02-02-17, 03:24 PM
  #4556  
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Originally Posted by carpediemracing View Post
Parallel?
Yes. Parallel. Bit of a brain fart. Thank you.
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Old 02-02-17, 04:20 PM
  #4557  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
Yes. Parallel. Bit of a brain fart. Thank you.
and here I thought you just scared easy

.... I mean, my bike is almost always perp-to the ground when I get it out of the car
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Old 02-02-17, 04:29 PM
  #4558  
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Originally Posted by scheibo View Post
Really? Interesting. Any links or studies you can share?
actually, they do exist - not nearly as common though -
I know some years ago there was a link on this forum to a guy who did almost this precise study -

while I don't have a link, maybe this will help your digging - if you want to do some digging, i think it was about 4 years ago:
one of his conclusions was that the 16/20h low profile wheel sets like DA 7900 (current at that point) weren't particularly far off a 50mm deep set of carbon rims w/ 20/24h or 24/24h lacing. Additionally, he ran the math backing up why some wheels like old-school Shamals w/ 12/16 lacing felt so fast - .... and it's because they were.
given better rim profiles to match up w/ tyre profiles (which wasn't really being studied like it is now), I have no doubt that a 25-35mm profile w/ a nicely matched up tyre and lower spoke count is giving up very very little to deeper rims.
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Old 02-02-17, 04:43 PM
  #4559  
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Originally Posted by Hida Yanra View Post
actually, they do exist - not nearly as common though -
I know some years ago there was a link on this forum to a guy who did almost this precise study -

while I don't have a link, maybe this will help your digging - if you want to do some digging, i think it was about 4 years ago:
one of his conclusions was that the 16/20h low profile wheel sets like DA 7900 (current at that point) weren't particularly far off a 50mm deep set of carbon rims w/ 20/24h or 24/24h lacing. Additionally, he ran the math backing up why some wheels like old-school Shamals w/ 12/16 lacing felt so fast - .... and it's because they were.
given better rim profiles to match up w/ tyre profiles (which wasn't really being studied like it is now), I have no doubt that a 25-35mm profile w/ a nicely matched up tyre and lower spoke count is giving up very very little to deeper rims.
it's not like one is gaining that much going from Flo 30 to a 60mm, bulbous rim to start out with. Maybe 4-5W for the front wheel at 25 mph. Lose a few spokes, that delta decreases even more. The biggest jump is going from 32H box section to that Flo 30
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Old 02-02-17, 04:51 PM
  #4560  
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Originally Posted by echappist View Post
it's not like one is gaining that much going from Flo 30 to a 60mm...
uhhhhhh
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Old 02-02-17, 06:19 PM
  #4561  
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^ this
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Old 02-02-17, 06:35 PM
  #4562  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
Yes. Parallel. Bit of a brain fart. Thank you.
Heh no problem
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Old 02-05-17, 02:56 PM
  #4563  
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I was installing a new brake cable on my Sram Aerolink brakes, when the arm where the cable bolts in snapped, so I cannot bolt the cable in. Brake is essentially useless.

I went on eBay to see about buying just a rear Aerolink, and I found another guy selling one with the exact same problem.

That got me thinking, and I checked the other five Aerolink brakes in my house (three sets), and the two oldest brakes - on the same bike - have visible stress fractures in the same place. I'm no longer comfortable riding that bike with the brakes in that condition. Make me wonder if I were to suddenly pull on my brakes too hard, would it snap, causing the brakes to go out?

I'm taking the broken brake and the two with stress fractures to my shop tomorrow. I think it warrants a call to Sram. But depending on what Sram says - they have a good history of warrantying things - I could be needing to purchase two new sets of brakes.
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Old 02-05-17, 05:41 PM
  #4564  
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Tested a stages last week against my quarq to see what kind of difference there was...the idea was to buy a cannondale stages so I can use the Cannondale crank and Spider Rings that came with my caad12 and put the Quarq on the TT bike.

The stages read 25 watts high on a 2 hour tempo ride...definitely cant get a Stages with that kind of difference.

Which leads me to getting a Cannondale Quarq (which im finding they dont make anymore...)or trying to find a way to get a Cannondale SRM. I know there are a few SRM users here, but are they really worth the extra coin? I dont seem many used ones on ebay, and the ones that are listed are pretty damned close to retail.

I want to use this crankset and still have power...are there any other options other than Quarq or SRM?
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Old 02-05-17, 06:18 PM
  #4565  
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How do you know that the Quarq is accurate?

I've had plenty of problems with my SRM products but accuracy wasn't one of them.
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Old 02-05-17, 07:20 PM
  #4566  
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Someone else said the same thing, but im pretty sure that isnt the case

Ive had issues with my right leg/hip over the last few years, and it is weaker than my left (I go to PT every other month to keep things in balance, but there is still the strength difference between the two legs). I even had to end my season early a few years ago because it was hurting bad enough. When I really start to get tired on a ride, my right leg is the always the one that starts getting sore/tired first. My Quarq also has power balance, and I regularly see a 4-5% difference between the two legs (except during high intensity intervals), left leg being the stronger of the two
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Old 02-05-17, 07:31 PM
  #4567  
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Okay, but that doesn't make it accurate.
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Old 02-05-17, 08:18 PM
  #4568  
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Originally Posted by Wylde06 View Post
Tested a stages last week against my quarq to see what kind of difference there was...the idea was to buy a cannondale stages so I can use the Cannondale crank and Spider Rings that came with my caad12 and put the Quarq on the TT bike.

The stages read 25 watts high on a 2 hour tempo ride...definitely cant get a Stages with that kind of difference.

Which leads me to getting a Cannondale Quarq (which im finding they dont make anymore...)or trying to find a way to get a Cannondale SRM. I know there are a few SRM users here, but are they really worth the extra coin? I dont seem many used ones on ebay, and the ones that are listed are pretty damned close to retail.

I want to use this crankset and still have power...are there any other options other than Quarq or SRM?
Power2Max makes a nice meter for Hollowgram.
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Old 02-06-17, 07:40 AM
  #4569  
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I paid $550 for a Cannondale Hollowgram SRM spider with chainrings two summers ago.

Just keep looking on eBay, Paceline, Slowtwitch and Craigslist.

For CL, the trick is to look in other cities. I found my SRM on Craigslist in LA. Exchanged several emails with the guy and chatted with him for about 5 min. on the phone before making the deal. Used PayPal for the purchase to give me protection.
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Old 02-06-17, 10:14 AM
  #4570  
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Originally Posted by Wylde06 View Post
Someone else said the same thing, but im pretty sure that isnt the case

Ive had issues with my right leg/hip over the last few years, and it is weaker than my left (I go to PT every other month to keep things in balance, but there is still the strength difference between the two legs). I even had to end my season early a few years ago because it was hurting bad enough. When I really start to get tired on a ride, my right leg is the always the one that starts getting sore/tired first. My Quarq also has power balance, and I regularly see a 4-5% difference between the two legs (except during high intensity intervals), left leg being the stronger of the two
I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sure a 4-5% power difference between legs is "within spec" for a normal human. Doesn't mean you're not unbalanced, if one side is fatiguing faster. Just that that's not a really abnormal lateral power difference.
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Old 02-13-17, 12:24 PM
  #4571  
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Valve extenders - how do they work?

I got some latex tubes, with short valves that I want to use with my 404's. So got some valve extenders to go with them.

These: https://www.amazon.com/Vittoria-Late...ds=latex+tubes

The problem is that once I take out the valve core and put on the valve extender, nothing is stopping air from coming back out..

What am I doing wrong??
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Old 02-13-17, 12:42 PM
  #4572  
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Which type of extender? One style you remove your core, put on the extender, and put the core in the extender.

The older style you just open the valve all the way and leave it that way.

Valve Extender How-To - Slowtwitch.com
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Old 02-13-17, 12:45 PM
  #4573  
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This one: https://www.amazon.com/Continental-V...valve+extender

I thought I tried to put the valve core back in to the extender, but couldn't.. will try again when I get home.
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Old 02-13-17, 12:48 PM
  #4574  
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Yeah, you should be able to remove the valve core, install the extender, then reinstall the valve core.

There's another type that just screws over the existing valve core, but IMO, they don't work as well.
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Old 02-13-17, 01:09 PM
  #4575  
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Originally Posted by mattm View Post
This one: https://www.amazon.com/Continental-V...valve+extender

I thought I tried to put the valve core back in to the extender, but couldn't.. will try again when I get home.
and put teflon plumbers tape on the threads
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