New to this: Italian frame, what cassette?, will the brakes fit?, what have I done?
#26
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My choice is to go full vintage, with some retro derailleurs, should I be lucky to find them cheap. There are some available on eBay, there is a guy selling them through the local forum, I may also wait for something less pricey.
I found some semi-cheap hubs (Shimano hb-1055, if I got it right); the rear one is 126 mm wide and would fit nicely. I am somewhat reluctant in terms of spreading the frame. That is not something I would like to do by myself and am not sure if any LBS would be opting do it for money, so the best option is to leave it as it is.
I found some semi-cheap hubs (Shimano hb-1055, if I got it right); the rear one is 126 mm wide and would fit nicely. I am somewhat reluctant in terms of spreading the frame. That is not something I would like to do by myself and am not sure if any LBS would be opting do it for money, so the best option is to leave it as it is.
https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/ev/HB...-1055-1113.pdf
https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/si/T-...000-00-ENG.pdf
https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/ev/FH...1055-1093A.pdf
#27
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Crank wouldn't come off. The spindle needed to be sawn through. Cranks are fine, but they may be tight and hard to remove from the new BB, so I should double-check things before I mount them for good.
Of course, I am just quoting them here, that is just what they said. Once the spindle was sawn off, they hammered the spindle -- or rather what was left out of it -- out of the crank and here we are.
Of course, I am just quoting them here, that is just what they said. Once the spindle was sawn off, they hammered the spindle -- or rather what was left out of it -- out of the crank and here we are.
#28
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Regarding the crankset: is there a model number and manufacturer embossed on the back of the drive side crank arm? If so, that might allow you to determine the BB spindle length and taper (ISO or JIS) needed for your replacement BB.
Regarding the old BB: did your LBS remove the remaining BB parts from the frame and return them to you with the crank arms? It's a longshot, but if it was an old-style cup and cone BB there's a chance that the cups are still serviceable. If so, all you'd need is new ball bearings and a spindle of correct length.
Square taper spindles are getting hard to find, though. Might be easier to find a cartridge BB of the correct spindle length instead.
Regarding the old BB: did your LBS remove the remaining BB parts from the frame and return them to you with the crank arms? It's a longshot, but if it was an old-style cup and cone BB there's a chance that the cups are still serviceable. If so, all you'd need is new ball bearings and a spindle of correct length.
Square taper spindles are getting hard to find, though. Might be easier to find a cartridge BB of the correct spindle length instead.
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#29
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I'm really confused by the whole "crank wouldn't come off, so they had to hacksaw the spindle" thing.
I can't see any way that that operation happens that doesn't leave the cut-off crankarm end of the (steel) spindle still un-removably stuck into the inside of whichever (aluminum) crankarm they couldn't remove.
More to the point, I cannot imagine any such scenario that would not end with, "So, I need a new crankset and bottom bracket." And, since cranksets and bottom brackets are almost always bought together, I would just go ahead and assume that any parts not destroyed by the removal aren't going to be reusable.
Which, really, is fine. That looks to me like an entry-level Suntour crank. Either Blaze or Edge... I forget which one had which finish on it... One was silver and the other was grey. Anyway, not worth any real effort to save, and I say that as a Suntour fan.
--Shannon
I can't see any way that that operation happens that doesn't leave the cut-off crankarm end of the (steel) spindle still un-removably stuck into the inside of whichever (aluminum) crankarm they couldn't remove.
More to the point, I cannot imagine any such scenario that would not end with, "So, I need a new crankset and bottom bracket." And, since cranksets and bottom brackets are almost always bought together, I would just go ahead and assume that any parts not destroyed by the removal aren't going to be reusable.
Which, really, is fine. That looks to me like an entry-level Suntour crank. Either Blaze or Edge... I forget which one had which finish on it... One was silver and the other was grey. Anyway, not worth any real effort to save, and I say that as a Suntour fan.
--Shannon
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#30
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I'm really confused by the whole "crank wouldn't come off, so they had to hacksaw the spindle" thing.
I can't see any way that that operation happens that doesn't leave the cut-off crankarm end of the (steel) spindle still un-removably stuck into the inside of whichever (aluminum) crankarm they couldn't remove.
More to the point, I cannot imagine any such scenario that would not end with, "So, I need a new crankset and bottom bracket." And, since cranksets and bottom brackets are almost always bought together, I would just go ahead and assume that any parts not destroyed by the removal aren't going to be reusable.
Which, really, is fine. That looks to me like an entry-level Suntour crank. Either Blaze or Edge... I forget which one had which finish on it... One was silver and the other was grey. Anyway, not worth any real effort to save, and I say that as a Suntour fan.
--Shannon
I can't see any way that that operation happens that doesn't leave the cut-off crankarm end of the (steel) spindle still un-removably stuck into the inside of whichever (aluminum) crankarm they couldn't remove.
More to the point, I cannot imagine any such scenario that would not end with, "So, I need a new crankset and bottom bracket." And, since cranksets and bottom brackets are almost always bought together, I would just go ahead and assume that any parts not destroyed by the removal aren't going to be reusable.
Which, really, is fine. That looks to me like an entry-level Suntour crank. Either Blaze or Edge... I forget which one had which finish on it... One was silver and the other was grey. Anyway, not worth any real effort to save, and I say that as a Suntour fan.
--Shannon
I've never done it cutting the spindle, but I guess if you can get in there with a Sawzall, that would work too. It's a tapered crank socket, so there's nothing holding the spindle end in there except the press fit. It leaves the crank socket in reusable condition.
But I gradually changed over to heating the stubborn ones with a torch, and dripping in a penetrating oil. They come off with a puller pretty easily with a couple of cycles, heating and cooling with Freeze Off.
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#31
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Regarding the crankset: is there a model number and manufacturer embossed on the back of the drive side crank arm? If so, that might allow you to determine the BB spindle length and taper (ISO or JIS) needed for your replacement BB.
Regarding the old BB: did your LBS remove the remaining BB parts from the frame and return them to you with the crank arms? It's a longshot, but if it was an old-style cup and cone BB there's a chance that the cups are still serviceable. If so, all you'd need is new ball bearings and a spindle of correct length.
Square taper spindles are getting hard to find, though. Might be easier to find a cartridge BB of the correct spindle length instead.
Regarding the old BB: did your LBS remove the remaining BB parts from the frame and return them to you with the crank arms? It's a longshot, but if it was an old-style cup and cone BB there's a chance that the cups are still serviceable. If so, all you'd need is new ball bearings and a spindle of correct length.
Square taper spindles are getting hard to find, though. Might be easier to find a cartridge BB of the correct spindle length instead.
As I am very new to it, I am learning it all with my own hard cash and didn't even think that salvaging of BB is possible to any extent. There were Italian BB available in the online store, for like $6, so not a big deal, I bought two of those, one of the same length, the other slightly shorter. Even if I don't use the latter, it may come in handy later.
#32
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Anyways, one of most frequent question asked there was "can you identify this counter for me". An OP would post a picture of a counter, from an obscure game from 70s or 80s, and people would usually respond in 15 minutes, giving a proper answer.
Now, ain't it exactly what happened here? You properly guessed the name of the crankset from a small picture -- this indeed is a Suntour, it says Radius. Don't know whether it's any good or not.
#33
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Crank wouldn't come off. The spindle needed to be sawn through. Cranks are fine, but they may be tight and hard to remove from the new BB, so I should double-check things before I mount them for good.
Of course, I am just quoting them here, that is just what they said. Once the spindle was sawn off, they hammered the spindle -- or rather what was left out of it -- out of the crank and here we are.
Of course, I am just quoting them here, that is just what they said. Once the spindle was sawn off, they hammered the spindle -- or rather what was left out of it -- out of the crank and here we are.
#34
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#35
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SheldonBrown.com and Velobase.com are your friends. You will learn more than you ever thought possible about your bike. And plan on your budget doubling. All the little stuff, like cable stops and seat post bolds. And water bottle cages and bolts.
P.S. I think you need a new bike shop. I have never heard of anyone sawing a bottom bracket spindle. New cartridge style BB are not too expensive, I'd toss the old cup and cone one.
P.S. I think you need a new bike shop. I have never heard of anyone sawing a bottom bracket spindle. New cartridge style BB are not too expensive, I'd toss the old cup and cone one.
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#36
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