Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Endcap - how to identify?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Endcap - how to identify?

Old 01-30-23, 09:17 PM
  #1  
LarryMelman
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
LarryMelman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 632
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked 20 Times in 7 Posts
Endcap - how to identify?

I have a set of Reynolds Solitude SE wheels which were a special (aka cheap) build they did for the dear departed Performance Bicycle. I bought them in 2015. In 2018, to solve a crunching noise in the drive train under load, a Performance tech disassembled and cleaned and lubed the freehub. It hasn't been apart since then, and the noise is back, so I decided to try it myself. I removed the cassette, and put 5mm Allen's into the axle end cap on either side. They didn't move, I had to put a pipe on one of the Allens to get any action, and finally the non drive-side cap broke loose. I removed that cap and put a 10mm Allen into the axle, and went to try again... but the inside of the endcap on the drive side is now stripped out. It must have happened when the other cap broke free. Assuming I can get it out somehow, how do I find a replacement? I have a support message into Hayes which owns Reynolds now. I never had specs or part lists for these wheels.
LarryMelman is offline  
Old 01-31-23, 10:24 AM
  #2  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 17,546

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3972 Post(s)
Liked 3,337 Times in 2,022 Posts
It is very likely that Reynolds didn't do the manufacturing of "their" hub, we use to call this "badge labeling". Hub company makes hubs to the specs that their customers (bike brands, wheel brands) ask for.

If this is the case one might be able to find out the OEM and seek out parts that might have been for their other customers but interchange across a number of different branded" hubs.

Have you tried common vise grips on the stuck end cap? Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 01-31-23, 01:15 PM
  #3  
Hondo6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: SW Florida, USA
Posts: 1,247

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 521 Post(s)
Liked 637 Times in 441 Posts
OP: it's a longshot, but posting a photo of the hub in question might help. There's an outside chance someone here might recognize them (or even own a pair).

That's especially true if the hub has any identifying markings whatsoever that might be a model number and you can include that in the photo.
Hondo6 is offline  
Likes For Hondo6:
Old 01-31-23, 08:33 PM
  #4  
LarryMelman
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
LarryMelman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 632
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked 20 Times in 7 Posts
This video shows what I was trying to do. His endcaps were already very very loose. Go to 2:30. This shows that the caps are both right-hand threaded which I had wondered about.

Per Reynolds, the only way to get the caps is with the freehub body. It appears to be a design where the pawls are in the hub itself, and the teeth are part of the freehub body. It was last taken apart in 2018, I wish I had taken pictures.
https://hayesbicycle.com/products/re...d-freehub-body
The 10-speed version that I have no longer being available, the Reynolds/Hayes rep said I could use it with a spacer of some kind.

Here are some pics, showing the non drive side where the cap came off, and the drive side which didn't, and the hole is stripped out. It protrudes so little from the freehub body that there isn't much to grab onto with pliers or even a vise. I had to really push on it with the pipe over the allen wrench to break the non-drive cap free, I can't imagine that even a vise would work without crushing it or really messing it up. The silver piece on the ends is what contacts the inside of the fork, and that's what I would have to grab onto. The small piece sticking out at the end being what goes into the dropouts... can't touch that at all.

The body is quite chewed up from the cassette, which I was not expecting. And yes, the lock ring was tight. Replacing the freehub body would not be the end of the world, if I had to.

As you can see, it has only the Reynolds logo, and on the drive side flange is 1314-ZL2R-317 which doesn't Google to anything.



Last edited by LarryMelman; 01-31-23 at 08:54 PM.
LarryMelman is offline  
Old 01-31-23, 09:48 PM
  #5  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 17,546

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3972 Post(s)
Liked 3,337 Times in 2,022 Posts
If you are able to remove the end cap and service the freehub body take a flat file to those gauges. Only a few strokes on each spline will knock down the gauges and let the cogs slide on and off more easily.

It is possible that the axle could be able to be driver out of the hub shell, impacting the left axle end and removing the drive side hub shell bearing. Of course this would involve more stuff and might provide more "discovery". Not knowing the axle/bearing/hubshell design I don't know if this is possible.

If you can source the freehub body and the end caps I suggest you do before they are no longer available. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 02-01-23, 08:13 AM
  #6  
LarryMelman
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
LarryMelman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 632
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked 20 Times in 7 Posts
Yeah, I don't want to just start whacking. If you know what I mean.
I was going to file down the ridges, whether I can get the body off or not. I have a new cassette to put on.
It is probably a good idea to buy the body and caps while I still can. Of course that assumes that I can in fact get the body off now.
I've had them since 2015 so perhaps I'm on borrowed time, but they've been good wheels with no other problems (except perhaps being a wee bit too large, it's a struggle to get Gatorskins on/off them, and I have a set of GP5000's waiting which are said to be even harder).
Thanks
LarryMelman is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.