Can I use 135mm rear hub skewer with 130mm hub?
#1
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Can I use 135mm rear hub skewer with 130mm hub?
Hello,
I got steel road frame with horizontal dropouts and 130mm rear hub. When fixing wheel I broke QR skewer. Now, when trying to get replacement I don't want it to be QR type but hex key instead. On some websites like Sheldon's there's a paragraph saying that best acorn-nut skewers are made out of steel, especially steel threads on nuts.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
Sadly I can't find such skewers in my area, in fact the only ones with steel nuts are one-piece(not two piece with steel-threads). Moreover they are 135mm.
I wonder would using those 135mm steel skewers be fine, either with me cutting extra length or just having one side stick out a bit.
I got steel road frame with horizontal dropouts and 130mm rear hub. When fixing wheel I broke QR skewer. Now, when trying to get replacement I don't want it to be QR type but hex key instead. On some websites like Sheldon's there's a paragraph saying that best acorn-nut skewers are made out of steel, especially steel threads on nuts.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
Sadly I can't find such skewers in my area, in fact the only ones with steel nuts are one-piece(not two piece with steel-threads). Moreover they are 135mm.
I wonder would using those 135mm steel skewers be fine, either with me cutting extra length or just having one side stick out a bit.
#2
ignominious poltroon
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They usually have enough of a thread to do this, at least in my own experience. Just make really sure the wheel is securely attached.
This one works for me: Amazon link I got the "road" version and it works fine. I've never worried about the protrusion. The bolt is not quick-release, but uses a hex key. It is steel. The nut is aluminum, which I replaced with a steel one I had lying around. That allows you to really crank down on it, which is
nice if you have horizontal dropouts. If you do get quick release, get internal cam, or those DT Swiss ones.
This one works for me: Amazon link I got the "road" version and it works fine. I've never worried about the protrusion. The bolt is not quick-release, but uses a hex key. It is steel. The nut is aluminum, which I replaced with a steel one I had lying around. That allows you to really crank down on it, which is
nice if you have horizontal dropouts. If you do get quick release, get internal cam, or those DT Swiss ones.
Last edited by Polaris OBark; 06-07-23 at 06:52 PM.
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#3
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Thanks for answer.
I've noticed that there's plenty of those hex key steel/Cr-Mo skewers around but most have one-piece aluminium nuts. While, like you did, replacing one nut is possible, the other one with hex hole is fixed. I guess that in most of these skewers those fixed nuts are also made out of aluminium, do you thnk that having both sides steel would be better?
I've noticed that there's plenty of those hex key steel/Cr-Mo skewers around but most have one-piece aluminium nuts. While, like you did, replacing one nut is possible, the other one with hex hole is fixed. I guess that in most of these skewers those fixed nuts are also made out of aluminium, do you thnk that having both sides steel would be better?
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"Better" as in holding the wheel in place, yes. Although the non drive side of the rear hub sees little forces trying to pull the axle this or that way (excepting the vertical loads of riding over stuff).
"Better" as seen by the company, no. A steel ended security skewer would likely have less sales appeal.
The usual reason to use a security skewer, instead of a common cam lever one, is to reduce the ease of a thief removing that wheel. A simple hose clamp wrapped around the skewer's cam lever and the fork blade or stay does much the same. Andy
"Better" as seen by the company, no. A steel ended security skewer would likely have less sales appeal.
The usual reason to use a security skewer, instead of a common cam lever one, is to reduce the ease of a thief removing that wheel. A simple hose clamp wrapped around the skewer's cam lever and the fork blade or stay does much the same. Andy
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The hex head on the skewer I posted is steel. It is part of the steel bolt. The concern is at the other end, where there are threads. If you thread into an aluminum nut, you have to be careful it won't strip if you over-tighten it. That is why I replaced it.
Alternatively, ...
Get this. They have size 130, and it works at least as well as the very best internal cam quick release:
Alternatively, ...
Get this. They have size 130, and it works at least as well as the very best internal cam quick release:

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Very few Al QR end nuts have had threading damage that prevented their function IME. But I have seem some where the face of that Al end nut had worn down and can't grip the dropout well enough. I believe this is why some brands will include a steel face added to the nut. Like just imaged. If thread wear and the resulting inability for the QR to keep a wheel secured was a common thing I think the liability side of the brands would let the design side know about what not to do, and pretty quickly. Andy
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