Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!
#8501
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As I remember, it had a rubbery texture. Here's a better picture.
#8502
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My daughter picked her bike up this morning for a test ride. The saddle is a sort of raggedy one that came on my m/v. I have a lot better one for it that Seypat sent. She is pretty picky about saddles so this one is just for testing, I'm sure she will change it. We haven't picked out bar tape yet we wanted to see how it fit. So far she says it feels good. It got rainy before she had a chance to ride it much. We had to repaint part of the green and the parts store didn't get it matched very well. She said she sort of likes it, I am wishing we had painted the whole seat tube, but it looked a lot closer until it dried. We also repainted some of the white and I think it came out good. I don't really like the black chain rings but that's what I had. They are 30/39/50 with a 11-28 10 speed cassette. She wanted something that would climb hills and I think it will fit the bill.
#8503
Junior Member
I have enjoyed reading all of the great information on this thread. I don’t have the Ironman, but an 86 Elite RS that my brother left me back in the early 90’s. I still love the ride.
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#8504
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I finally hit the wall with my Ironman frame touch-up project. My initial goal was to get it looking OK from 10 feet - I told myself not to go totally anal on the project. Just get it ready to ride. Yeah . . . right! After about a month of mixing paint, I feel I got the color at about 98% - you can tell the spots when you’re at 2 feet. Every time I did a spot, my wet sanding (800 grit) would take it down to the primer. I tried airbrushing, but my skills were suspect, at best. Eventually, I returned to the airbrush and got a much better result. I haven’t been able to get out and find the appropriate color to mix for the yellow, yet, but that will be less of a hassle. I just needed to get this bike put together! Today, I installed the bottom bracket, the headset, the brakes, rear axle stops, and handlebars. The cables and housing should be here tomorrow (white braided). I’ll start out with the white saddle and maybe switch to the yellow one once I figure out how to get the leather to wrap around the difficult curves. Bar tape will be yellow/gold. I will likely go back and retouch a few spots, but for now, I just want to get out and ride!
I clean the chip as best as I can first and then thin the paint as much as possible...just thin enough to leave a decent amount of color in the chipped area (going out to the edges of the chip) and let it dry before applying another coat of color. The lack of feathering leave and edge that the new paint can fill to....I never try to fill in with one complete coat but use several to build up the paint so that it is just slightly above the "original" surface...then try to sand "only" the smallest amount of area where the touch-up is in order to get it level. use a 1200 wet dry to do this and follow with a fine polishing compound.
Another trick that I have found useful is to position the frame so that the chip is as parallel to the ground as possible...this is done so that I don't get that blob or pooling of paint that always occurs when the paint flows downwards...you know what I mean, and I never sand through to the primer unless I am going to use an airbrush or spray gun to paint with.
It would be nice to see how your method turned out..it looks good from 2 ft.
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Ben
#8506
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If I am ever trying to do a touch-up of paint that has chipped off, I never sand or feather the edges first.
I clean the chip as best as I can first and then thin the paint as much as possible...just thin enough to leave a decent amount of color in the chipped area (going out to the edges of the chip) and let it dry before applying another coat of color. The lack of feathering leave and edge that the new paint can fill to....I never try to fill in with one complete coat but use several to build up the paint so that it is just slightly above the "original" surface...then try to sand "only" the smallest amount of area where the touch-up is in order to get it level. use a 1200 wet dry to do this and follow with a fine polishing compound.
Another trick that I have found useful is to position the frame so that the chip is as parallel to the ground as possible...this is done so that I don't get that blob or pooling of paint that always occurs when the paint flows downwards...you know what I mean, and I never sand through to the primer unless I am going to use an airbrush or spray gun to paint with.
It would be nice to see how your method turned out..it looks good from 2 ft.
JM2C's
Ben
I clean the chip as best as I can first and then thin the paint as much as possible...just thin enough to leave a decent amount of color in the chipped area (going out to the edges of the chip) and let it dry before applying another coat of color. The lack of feathering leave and edge that the new paint can fill to....I never try to fill in with one complete coat but use several to build up the paint so that it is just slightly above the "original" surface...then try to sand "only" the smallest amount of area where the touch-up is in order to get it level. use a 1200 wet dry to do this and follow with a fine polishing compound.
Another trick that I have found useful is to position the frame so that the chip is as parallel to the ground as possible...this is done so that I don't get that blob or pooling of paint that always occurs when the paint flows downwards...you know what I mean, and I never sand through to the primer unless I am going to use an airbrush or spray gun to paint with.
It would be nice to see how your method turned out..it looks good from 2 ft.
JM2C's
Ben
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#8507
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Thanks for the tips, Ben. I think you might have described your process earlier somewhere, because I tried some if those techniques. I was probably a little heavy-handed with the sanding, though. My biggest challenge was getting the paint mixed closely enough to the original - that purple/magenta is a bear to match up. With your method, you can focus specifically on the spot. I ended up covering a larger area to get a smooth (mostly) coating. I was able to finish without using any sandpaper - I used 3M Perfect It II followed by 3M Finesse It and then Zymol Spray Wax. The result is an acceptable finish from about 8 feet, but when you get the magnifying glass out, you can tell where the work was done. Still, it’s better that when I got it it. Thanks again for the tips - I’ll try that on one of my other bikes.
Best, Ben
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I have to start over on the seat - it had too many compound, tight curves in the back to get the leather to lay flat. I may have to splice in a rear section like the original WTB cover. I’ll have get my daughter to help with proper stitching for that. But for the top and sides, it looked pretty good.
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#8509
Junior Member
so for those of you who have restored or repainted the ironman which brand of white paint did you use and as far as prep what did you do ?
#8510
Junior Member
also my 89 came with a hyperglide 7 speed cassette on it. and shimano 52/42 biopace crank i know the smallest cog is 13t gotta go home and check to see what the largest is . but i wanted to know what the largest rear cog the RD will handle. Just want something for climbing .
#8511
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With all the time I've had on my hands, I figured I'd do a little update on how I went about touching up the chips and scrapes on my Ironman with an airbrush. I had one spot left to do, so I took some pics and did a short (and very amateurish) video of the process. First, of course, is getting the area ready to paint - then the steps are as follows:
Here is the little YouTube video I made of the spraying part. Sorry for the quality - first time and all.
This is the spot on the top tube that needs the touch-up
This is the "frame" around the spot
Thank you, Andy!
Through the cutout.
Immediately after spraying.
Ten minutes after spraying.
Results from two feet. The little flaw will rub out with compound.
Interesting process, and I learned something new! I'll definitely use this technique again and maybe do a whole paint job with the airbrush.
- Tell your Alexa or other device to play Steely Dan music
- Cut out and tape on a "frame"around the area you're painting
- Add a small amount of paint to the airbrush cup you borrowed from your son
- Adjust the spray power/flow to about half of full blast
- Slowly and carefully spray the area through the hole on the "frame"
- Let it dry, then rub out with light rubbing compound followed by polishing compound and wax
Here is the little YouTube video I made of the spraying part. Sorry for the quality - first time and all.
This is the spot on the top tube that needs the touch-up
This is the "frame" around the spot
Thank you, Andy!
Through the cutout.
Immediately after spraying.
Ten minutes after spraying.
Results from two feet. The little flaw will rub out with compound.
Interesting process, and I learned something new! I'll definitely use this technique again and maybe do a whole paint job with the airbrush.
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Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
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#8513
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Great job on the color match. I should get back to work on my wife's MV.
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#8514
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Last edited by markwesti; 04-13-20 at 05:28 PM.
#8515
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also my 89 came with a hyperglide 7 speed cassette on it. and shimano 52/42 biopace crank i know the smallest cog is 13t gotta go home and check to see what the largest is . but i wanted to know what the largest rear cog the RD will handle. Just want something for climbing .
Main issue: Be sure the chain is long enough to shift into the 52T big chainring and 28T rear cog. Even if you plan to avoid ever using that combination, some day, some way, when you're egg-beatering up a climb, legs thrashing like a Yorkie dog paddling, thighs on fire, all form and grace lost 30 seconds ago, desperately trying to avoid slowing down to a walking pace and toppling over or actually bailing out and walking... you'll shift into the dreaded big/big combo.
And don't count on drivetrain noise as a guide to avoiding crosschaining. When ambient noise is high from wind, traffic, or if we listen to music or podcasts while riding, we won't even hear crosschaining. And if the drivetrain is optimized, including super-slick lubes like wax, Rock 'n' Roll Absolute Dry with PTFE, or your favorite lube of choice, it's harder to hear or feel any crosschaining.
If I'm installing a new chain and don't have the old chain as a guide for the correct length, I'll err on the side of cutting the chain too long, then remove one link at a time until it'll safely handle the big/big combo without being too long and flopping around smacking the seat stay.
Some older rear derailleurs have the "B" screw for adjusting the distance between the RD pulleys and freewheel/cassette. It'll help when stuffing a 28T big cog into a setup intended only for 21 or 24 tooth big cogs. Takes a bit of fiddling and testing on a work stand or indoor trainer to get it right. But once done it's usually set and forget, won't need to be adjusted again.
With Biopace rings, which are eccentric -- not quite oval but not round -- there will be slight differences in chain "length" throughout the cycle. So check the shifting thoroughly on a work stand or indoor trainer (or have a helper hold up the bike with the rear wheel off the ground/floor) while you shift through the entire gear range several times. Before riding I always check on the indoor trainer with the resistance set normally, which emulates road riding conditions pretty well -- although it's not unusual for a glitch to become apparent only on the road.
#8516
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#8517
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... some day, some way, when you're egg-beatering up a climb, legs thrashing like a Yorkie dog paddling, thighs on fire, all form and grace lost 30 seconds ago, desperately trying to avoid slowing down to a walking pace and toppling over or actually bailing out and walking... you'll shift into the dreaded big/big combo.
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#8518
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also my 89 came with a hyperglide 7 speed cassette on it. and shimano 52/42 biopace crank i know the smallest cog is 13t gotta go home and check to see what the largest is . but i wanted to know what the largest rear cog the RD will handle. Just want something for climbing .
Special note: not only adjust the B screw but also adust the drop out screws. Allow your rear wheel to really set back .
#8519
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I got as far as I could go with the touch-up portion of my rebuild - still need to get the yellow sorted out. So, here’s the MV as it stands, now - ready to ride! The setup is 8-speed D-A, 600 hubs, Mavic Open Pro rims. I was shocked when I weighed the bike with my digital fishing scale - 21.5 lbs. That’s pretty light for a 58cm bike from this era, so I’ll have to double-check it later. I’d go out today, but it’s only 26 degrees. Maybe Friday or Saturday.
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Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
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Last edited by ddeand; 04-15-20 at 07:19 PM.
#8520
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a little update i got a cinelli 1E 110 stem from a buddy and i managed to round off the clamp binder bolt and i cant find a m7 1mm metric cap screw.
#8521
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fleslider...
Yes, thank you so much for posting the Centurion catalogs, including my year, 1987.
I don't remember what thread, or with who, but recently we discussed what cluster came original on an '87 Master.
The debate was whether it was a 13-21 or 13-24.
The catalog shows 13-21 for the Master, and 13-24 for an Expert.
Yes, thank you so much for posting the Centurion catalogs, including my year, 1987.
I don't remember what thread, or with who, but recently we discussed what cluster came original on an '87 Master.
The debate was whether it was a 13-21 or 13-24.
The catalog shows 13-21 for the Master, and 13-24 for an Expert.
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18.2 lbs
I’d double check that scale. They “ride lighter,” anyway, but 18.2 in that trim; doubtful. Almost any setup, actually.
I got as far as I could go with the touch-up portion of my rebuild - still need to get the yellow sorted out. So, here’s the MV as it stands, now - ready to ride! The setup is 8-speed D-A, 600 hubs, Mavic Open Pro rims. I was shocked when I weighed the bike with my digital fishing scale - 18.2 lbs. That’s pretty light for a 58cm bike from this era, so I’ll have to double-check it later. I’d go out today, but it’s only 26 degrees. Maybe Friday or Saturday.
#8523
Senior Member
fleslider...
Yes, thank you so much for posting the Centurion catalogs, including my year, 1987.
I don't remember what thread, or with who, but recently we discussed what cluster came original on an '87 Master.
The debate was whether it was a 13-21 or 13-24.
The catalog shows 13-21 for the Master, and 13-24 for an Expert.
Yes, thank you so much for posting the Centurion catalogs, including my year, 1987.
I don't remember what thread, or with who, but recently we discussed what cluster came original on an '87 Master.
The debate was whether it was a 13-21 or 13-24.
The catalog shows 13-21 for the Master, and 13-24 for an Expert.
We definitely need to get a '88 and '89 Catalog.
#8524
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I was figuring it would fall in the 21-22 lbs. range. That’s what my Miyata Pro weighed with this set of components. Maybe the handlebar tape was 2 lbs. lighter?😉
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Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
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