bh357

Santa Wifey has given the go-ahead on a track bike, so I am faced with deciding what to buy. It is coming down between the Trek T1 and Felt TK3. I've ridden both as rental bikes, and don't recall the differences in ride between the two.

I'm interested in something that would be a good all-arounder. My local track has a 44 degree bank. This bike would rarely (if ever) be ridden on the road.
Also, I have a $240 Trek credit which could come into play here.

Also... sizing. I'm 5'11" and wear 32" inseam pants. Mountain bike (29er) has a 24" ett, with a 105cm stem and just over 29" saddle height. Cyclocross bike is a 55cm Bianchi San Jose. Primary road bike is a 60cm 1981 Raleigh (too tall, but the reach is great on that bike). I don't recall the size rental bikes I rode, but I believe it was 58cm (may have been 56cm).

Kayce

If its between the T1 and the TK3, I would defiantly go with the T1. The closer comparison is between the T1 and the TK2. This is of course if you test ride both, and figure out that each brands have a size that fits you well.

TejanoTrackie 

I disagree. The T1 is comparable to the TK3. Also, the TK3 cranks are 144 bcd, whereas they are 130 bcd on the T1, and 144 bcd is the track standard.

https://2009.feltracing.com/09-catalo...es/09-tk3.aspx

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/track/t1/

The components on the TK2 (wheels, cranks etc) are higher end.

https://2009.feltracing.com/09-catalo...es/09-tk2.aspx

carleton

I agree with Tejano.

In my estimation, the complete bikes rank as follows:
TK3 < T1 < TK2

If possible, I'd see if you could stretch the budget for a TK2 and you won't feel the need to upgrade anything for a long while. If you get the Trek T1 and start to take track training or racing seriously, you'll probably eventually upgrade to 144BCD cranks. Sram Omniums (best bang for the buck) are about $200. These come stock on the Felt TK2.

Also, keep in mind that if you are going to train or race you are going to need:
- Cog and Lockring tools
- Alternate chainrings (I recommend FSA Pro 1/8" for the best bang for the buck. 48t and 49t should be enough to get you through most of your first season. Your new bike will probably come with a 48t already).
- Alternate cogs (I recommend Dura Ace. 16t for warmup and 15t for race/training for the first 1/2 of the season till you get stronger. These are about $20 each)

You probably already have other basic cycling tools (allen wrenches, pump, tire levers, etc...)

Welcome to the sport!

carleton

Also, I strongly suggest that you buy from a local shop where you can try before you buy. Especially being that Trek sizing is a bit wonky. I ride a 57-58 on most bikes, but the 60cm T1 fits right. I think it's how they measure things. Pay close attention to the Effective Top Tube measurements. The differ by 3cm. The 60cm has an ETT of 56.8cm, a 3.2cm difference!

bh357

Thanks for the input everyone. Careton, after looking at the geometry numbers the Felt looks a bit more promising. That is, if their TT C-C measurement is their way of stating effective top-tube. Based on my MTB and the Raleigh, I think I prefer a bit longer top tube.
The TK2 is stretching the budget a bit, especially since track riding is new to me, and I have yet to participate in a race.
I have the cog and lockring tools, as well as a 15t (Dura Ace) and a 17t (Surly) cog (for the San Jose). What's the advantage on the 144BCD cranks? Chainring availability?

TejanoTrackie 

You can find chainrings in the sizes needed for track racing in both 130 bcd and 144 bcd, but the selection is better for 144 bcd and over a greater price range. Also, if you are at the track, you have a better chance of borrowing a different size chainring that you are lacking from a fellow racer in a 144 bcd. Also, 144 bcd cranks are true single chainring track cranks, which lack a shoulder for an inner second chainring like 130 bcd cranks, which are actually road cranks with shorter chainring bolts. Track cranks will have a shoulder recess in the back of the spider arm, which makes it easier to install the chainring nuts when making chainring changes on the track. Also, you can buy chainring bolts with knurled nuts that stay put once installed, making bolt removal and installation a snap.

bitingduck

I've seen a few track cranks where they don't stay installed, but a little locktite between the crank and the outside of the nuts when you install them works well.

chas58

Why is that? Better upgrade than wheels? (or just more cost effective)?

Are they that much better than Sunigo RT or the basic road cranks that many bikes come with? Why?

thanks...

Kayce

I find the Sram Omniums over hyped, but at $200 they are hard to beat. I personally would just save more for something else.

The advantages of the Omniums are the 144bcd, a very stiff interface, and decently stiff cranks. I know there were issues in the past with fitting the Omniums on the Trek, but many people just filled down the part that would rub. Also there are complaints about the bearing quality in the BB, and the difficulty in swapping chainrings.

carleton

Yes, they are much better than the RT or basic cranks. If you are a strong guy, you'll probably notice the flex in the cheaper cranksets.

I've used Omniums, Dura Ace, Campy Record, and SRM. The Omniums are nice. I have a set of Dura Ace sitting on my shelf thinking that I'd go back...but I haven't yet.

The difficulty in swapping chainrings comes from the thick spider arms. To remedy this you need a set of single AND double chainring bolts (steel). Use the nut (the female part) from the singles combined with the bolt (the male part) from the doubles because it's longer. This system works very well. The nuts will never stick out too far to keep the chainring from being seated on the arms. The bolts will be long enough the reach through the thick arms. My teammate and I use this system right now.

chas58

Thanks for the feedback. The RTs seem pretty flexy to me.

bike2victory

Ok I own both the t1 is a pice of crap it's a decent frame with a bunch of horable componets and it even sounds bad and it is road geometry the tk3 is track geomety with ok components it's a great beginner bike go with the tk3 or even better tk2

FKMTB07

My T1 has 74.5 degree HTA and STA, a short top tube, and short chainstays. I wouldn't call that road geometry.

And yes, the stock components aren't spectacular, but they get you rolling until you outgrow them / wear them out.

The only thing stock on mine is the headset, seat collar, and frame/fork. It was a complete, one of the last USA built red ones. It was shipped with a chip in the fork, so they sent a replacement fork. The new fork is all black (matches the new all black framesets) instead of the original red/black fade. I think I like it that way better actually.