Upgrading to disk brake question.
#1
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How are you going to mount the calipers?
You need the proper frame/fork.
You need the proper frame/fork.
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Does your frame and fork have the mounting tabs for disc brakes?
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All new calipers I’ve seen have been sold ”loaded” - incl brake pads.
Once those wear out, remove them from the caliper and go shopping for new ones according to shape. If you’d bought a recognized brand, you could have used the make&model to buy new pads. That might not work this time.
You’ll need new wires too. Compatible levers. Perhaps adapters if your frame/fork is IS mount. Some zip ties to secure the wires.
Quite likely new spokes.
Once those wear out, remove them from the caliper and go shopping for new ones according to shape. If you’d bought a recognized brand, you could have used the make&model to buy new pads. That might not work this time.
You’ll need new wires too. Compatible levers. Perhaps adapters if your frame/fork is IS mount. Some zip ties to secure the wires.
Quite likely new spokes.
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Mechanical disc brake calipers are available for two different cable pulls.
Flat bar brake levers are available in two different cable pulls.
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This mount okay or they make something more reliable?
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This mount okay or they make something more reliable?
Edit: especially if you are getting the 180mm calipers.
#11
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It may be the case that the fork is not designed to withstand the loads of disc brakes, and using the mounts may break it. Many people here will advice to ride the bike for now and save for a new bike which comes with disc brakes right away and which is not a department store bike.
Edit: especially if you are getting the 180mm calipers.
Edit: especially if you are getting the 180mm calipers.
Disk brake uses cable thickness more than 1.6mm, do you have link?
Last edited by PimpMan; 05-28-21 at 01:54 PM.
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Bad idea from the World Famous King of Bad Ideas and Pointless Questions.
Frames and forks made for disc brakes are engineered to handle disc brakes and the extra loads the apply to the middle of stays/fork blades. Frames and forks made for rim brakes are not engineered to handle these forces.
I thought you were busy upgrading your bike from 5 speed to 6 speed? Why the sudden jump to 1990s technology?
Frames and forks made for disc brakes are engineered to handle disc brakes and the extra loads the apply to the middle of stays/fork blades. Frames and forks made for rim brakes are not engineered to handle these forces.
I thought you were busy upgrading your bike from 5 speed to 6 speed? Why the sudden jump to 1990s technology?
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I'd give it a poor chance of actually being satisfactory and working well enough to trust the brakes. The brake mounts will require spreading the frame, and depending on how thick they are, will interfere with full engagement of the axles with the dropouts. Any flexing between the mounting bracket and the frame / fork may cause them to work loose over time. And it may be quite frustrating to remove and replace the rear wheel to fix a flat tire. This has the looks of an aftermarket accessory that is not fully engineered for your bike.
What's wrong with the brakes that are already on the bike? This "upgrade" may be a step backward.
What's wrong with the brakes that are already on the bike? This "upgrade" may be a step backward.
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It seems like you missed the point entirely.
I’ll try again:
1) different levers make the cable move different amounts as the lever moves through its stroke
2) different calipers require different amounts of cable movement to work right.
3) If you don’t match levers to calipers, you are unlikely to get good function from your brakes.
I don’t know what bike you’re starting with, what parts that are on it. I don’t know what cable pull you have. I Haven’t checked the specs of the brakes you want to buy. I don’t know(for sure) what cable pull your calipers require.
Brake wire diameter is your least concern.
I’ll try again:
1) different levers make the cable move different amounts as the lever moves through its stroke
2) different calipers require different amounts of cable movement to work right.
3) If you don’t match levers to calipers, you are unlikely to get good function from your brakes.
I don’t know what bike you’re starting with, what parts that are on it. I don’t know what cable pull you have. I Haven’t checked the specs of the brakes you want to buy. I don’t know(for sure) what cable pull your calipers require.
Brake wire diameter is your least concern.
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This mount okay or they make something more reliable?
For disc brakes to work, the alignment and positioning of rotor and caliper is VERY important. I have a hard time seeing how those mounts can be accurate enough.
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Do you have disc brake wheels? Where will you mount the rotors? And if you have a non disc brake frame how will you get those wheels in the frame? This is one of the worst of all bad ideas. You must be trolling.
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PimpMan,
I have a 90's MTB that at the time scared me so badly with poor braking my knee jerk reaction was to swap out the OEM Coda brakes for Shimano XTR.
Problem well and truly solved.
Truth be known, had I simply replaced the Coda brake blocks/pads for a better performing product I'd have likely been fine.
But hey.. I wanted XTR and that's what I got. Plus it was a simple switch that the frame was already designed for.
You are embarking on a completely different technology that your frame is not designed to support.
This would be a tough and expensive swap and possibly unwise for a seasoned mechanic.
You might want to reconsider your approach.
Barry
I have a 90's MTB that at the time scared me so badly with poor braking my knee jerk reaction was to swap out the OEM Coda brakes for Shimano XTR.
Problem well and truly solved.
Truth be known, had I simply replaced the Coda brake blocks/pads for a better performing product I'd have likely been fine.
But hey.. I wanted XTR and that's what I got. Plus it was a simple switch that the frame was already designed for.
You are embarking on a completely different technology that your frame is not designed to support.
This would be a tough and expensive swap and possibly unwise for a seasoned mechanic.
You might want to reconsider your approach.
Barry
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Are you running cantilever or v-brakes? If cantis, just throw on a decent set of v-brakes and you'll be just fine.
This reminds me of some TROLL type of thread.
This reminds me of some TROLL type of thread.
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Bluntly an really stupid idea, super cheap parts, retrofit for something never designed for disk. basically throwing money away. hubs are quick release, there is a reason the standard for disk now is through axle
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
#21
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Only wants to listen to those that agree with them and ignores good advice even though they they don't apparently have the knowledge to tell the difference.
They want to slaughter the pig & tan the hide before they start installing the lip stick.
Usually, people like this make my ignore list, but this poster may be a "Best Of".
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Hate to jump on the bandwagon, but its a bad idea. The hubs you picked are quick release, the disc adapters require bolt-on hubs to add some stability to the adapter. The adapters aren't really meant to work well and aren't a great solution. Cost-wise, you still need new spokes assuming you're keeping the stock rims since that style disc hub will have taller flanges and require shorter spokes and then there's the matter of building the wheels. If you want to stop better as others have mentioned buy v-brakes but buy a set with brake levers included, just get a decent set of tektros which should set you back about 20 for the front and 20 for the back, can still use the stock wheels.
#23
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i value all advice etc, but after all its a bicycle that i ride top 25 KM/h, not a motorcycle, perhaps i buy a new front fork that supports the disk brake caliper and for the rear i think frame will handle adapter no problem.
Last edited by PimpMan; 05-28-21 at 10:16 PM.
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Its an MTB fat strong front fork, i think its okay to use caliper.
#25
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