cs1

OK this is not a “VS” thread. I am putting together bike and was wondering about mini-v brakes. I have been using canti’s on my bikes since 1989 with no problems at all. Rain or shine they work great. I have old Deore and Paul Neo Retro’s on my bikes. While the Pauls look a whole lot better performance isn’t that much better. So what say all those who have made the switch.

dsbrantjr

I tend to stick with what works, cantilevers since you have mastered their adjustment and use. I use Tektro CR720s myself. A third alternative, I also have Magura HS33 hydraulic rim brakes on one bike and like them a lot; they install painlessly on cantilever studs and have tremendous stopping power.

dubes

On one bike, I use both! Mini-v up front, canti rear. If I had a cable stop, I would have used a mini-v on the rear, also, just because they came as a set and for me setting up v-brakes (and mini-v's) is very simple. With cantis it usually takes me a ride or two to dial in the stopping power.

That said, if you already have cantis and it sounds like you're an old hand at setting them up, then there really isn't any reason not to keep using them. I don't know if it matters to you, but one benefit of cantis (or full size v-brakes) over mini-v's is that you get better tire and/or fender clearance with cantis.

Mike

Andrew R Stewart 

There's no free lunch. So any increase of leverage (often called "power") comes loss of lever firmness and rim/pad clearance (for the same lever travel when pads contact the rim).

How firm are the current lever pulls? How strong are your hands? Do you keep your rims well trued?

BTW dubes makes a very good point about large road tires and fenders fitting under the mini's cross over cable. Andy

Ronsonic 

I've used Mini-Vs when I've had a choice. They both work, V's are easier to setup and you get more braking force at the cost of less clearance when open. You also don't get fork shudder on cyclocross bikes.

delbiker1 

I have cantilevers, Avid shorty 4, on a Lemond Poprad I just purchased used. It is my first time using them. I have tested the operation of them and find them to be fine. They stop the bike well, I have had no noise from them, and no fork shudder. I will be using this bike only as road bike. I may be replacing the pads soon, but see no need to change to other brakes. If anyone cares to comment on cantilevers they feel are superior, and why, please do. I can use the info.

lararryu

Giant Rainier SE Mountain Bike vs schwinn protocol 1.0

lararryu

Giant Rainier SE Mountain Bike vs schwinn protocol 1.0

Andrew R Stewart 

Fork shudder is generally attributed to a flexi steerer. When the ft brake cable runs through the casing stop at the top end of the steerer (and the brake is below the bottom end) the brake can cause the steerer to bend (banana like) which reduces the braking action. Thus the steerer returns to straight and the cycle repeats it's self, over and over. With a steel steerer this is rarely a problem. But with Al ot carbon steerers much more likely. Solutions are to reduce the brake's "power" (shortening the pads is one way, changing the cable/arm/rim geometry another method) or to move the casing stop to the fork crown with one of those "fingers".

Of the 7 or 8 cantilevered bikes (including two tandems) I've had shudder has never been present. But I ride steel stuff. Andy

hokiefyd 

My '97 Trek 750 has fork shudder with cantilevers. I have used Mini-Vs on it before, but I like the look of cantilevers on it. I used the Tektro fork-mounted cable hanger to solve the fork shudder problem. The picture below shows my cable hanger, but this is with the original Acera cantilevers. I've replaced these with Tektro CR510s, which use threaded-post direct pull brake pads (very easy to setup!).

hokiefyd 

As a follow-up, and more directly addressing the question originally posed, I do not notice any perceived difference in braking capability between the Mini-Vs and the Tektro CR510s. And I've used the same (and original-to-the-bike) short-pull brake levers with both. Both brakes are very strong, easy to modulate, and light in effort. I generally set up my rim brakes with the least amount of return spring tension (in the brake arms) as possible, using just enough to keep the brakes centered. That results in a pleasingly (for me) low effort at the brake lever. Despite the levers being conventional 3-finger levers, these are 1-finger brakes. I'm using Avid 20R pads in the brakes, which I find to be smooth, quiet, and consistent.

ljsense

Fork shudder, like others said, is the reason I've used a mini-V up front on some bikes. If that's not an issue, and you're good adjusting cantis, why not use them?

In some frame geometries, for some riders, occasionally a wide canti in back will hit a heel. I guess that's one other situation where a mini V will offer a solution.

Mud clearance, though, is a red herring -- you don't want to carry mud on your rims. Any rim brake will have to squish and displace all rim mud before it does its job. If you think a certain style brake itself collects and carries more mud and grass, maybe so -- but that's a different issue from what I used to hear about mud clearance on the rim.

Wilfred Laurier

I like my mini-Vs, but if I wanted to run tires bigger that ~38mm, I likely would not have enough clearance.

Cantis are generally a wee bit harder to set up - usually two cable pinch bolts to tighten instead of one. Many modern cantis use V-brake type pads, which are much easier than smooth-post pads to adjust.

In my experience, the mud clearance people talk about is clearance between the tire and whatever cable or yoke is above the tire, not mud on the rim, which is the same for any rim brake. Cantis have superior clearance above the tire for mud or fat tires or fenders.

dr_lha

I've got Paul Minimotos on my gravel bike with 700x45 tires. They're fine.

Destruktoren

Cantis are cool and if I¨m not mistaken also more effective!