Replacing Dropout
#1
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Replacing Dropout
Will be replacing the dropout of my bike. A few questions.
1. Do i need to grease the threads of the dropout screws and the rd? And do i need to grease the upper part of the dropout as well?
2. How tight should the screws and the rd be? First time doing this so i am very careful.

1. Do i need to grease the threads of the dropout screws and the rd? And do i need to grease the upper part of the dropout as well?
2. How tight should the screws and the rd be? First time doing this so i am very careful.


#2
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The screws sometimes have a litle blue loctite on them, I've never bothered greasing them, same with the rear der bolt and have never had a problem with things coming undone at a later date. The screws usually use a 2.5 or 3mm allen wrench, so make them snug but don't use a lot of force. No idea the actual amount but with the 2.5mm wrench especially you can see the wrench on a longer t-handle start to lightly twist, that's more than tight enough.
#3
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The screws sometimes have a litle blue loctite on them, I've never bothered greasing them, same with the rear der bolt and have never had a problem with things coming undone at a later date. The screws usually use a 2.5 or 3mm allen wrench, so make them snug but don't use a lot of force. No idea the actual amount but with the 2.5mm wrench especially you can see the wrench on a longer t-handle start to lightly twist, that's more than tight enough.
It’s easier to do this with chain removed, right? My shimano chain does not have a quick link. I didn’t bother to put one since i just clean the chain while on the bike. Got a couple spare links here.
Last edited by iamLefty; 03-15-23 at 11:57 PM.
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Oh that’s loctite? Yeah, the screws have them. Had a real hard time finding a replacement dropout for my caad8. Almost bought a china made one. Got no t-handle but i got long bondhus hex wrenches. Hey, thanks! I wanna be extra sure before i proceed.
It’s easier to do this with chain removed, right? My shimano chain does not have a quick link. I didn’t bother to put one since i just clean the chain while on the bike. Got a couple spare links here.
It’s easier to do this with chain removed, right? My shimano chain does not have a quick link. I didn’t bother to put one since i just clean the chain while on the bike. Got a couple spare links here.
Remember to engage the Derailleur stop/B-screw with the Der. Hanger stop. i mention this because someone was trying to mount an expensive derailleur WITHOUT considering those stop tabs a few days ago A bent B-screw will be the result of NOT paying attention to things.. or even a ruined Derailleur. you may know about the B-screw... the next reader may not.....
https://image.ibb.co/g3kfJQ/IMG_5339.png
Last edited by maddog34; 03-16-23 at 12:26 AM.
#5
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there is no need to remove the chain from the bike... just take the wheel off the bike and take the chain off the chainrings onto the bottom bracket. Place a rag around the bottom bracket if the paint is in great shape to prevent scratches. the Derailleur will now have no tension on it from the chain.
Remember to engage the Derailleur stop/B-screw with the Der. Hanger stop. i mention this because someone was trying to mount an expensive derailleur WITHOUT considering those stop tabs a few days ago A bent B-screw will be the result of NOT paying attention to things.. or even a ruined Derailleur. you may know about the B-screw... the next reader may not.....
https://image.ibb.co/g3kfJQ/IMG_5339.png
Remember to engage the Derailleur stop/B-screw with the Der. Hanger stop. i mention this because someone was trying to mount an expensive derailleur WITHOUT considering those stop tabs a few days ago A bent B-screw will be the result of NOT paying attention to things.. or even a ruined Derailleur. you may know about the B-screw... the next reader may not.....
https://image.ibb.co/g3kfJQ/IMG_5339.png
#6
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Good reason to buy a couple spares.Might have better luck if you called it a "derailleur hanger" which is what it is called. Best practice is to get it aligned after installation.
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Yup. The hanger attaches to the drop out.
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Keep in mind that the screws aren't structural - they are there to locate the hanger - your axle and quick release are what really hold it is place. Do all you alignment checks with the wheel in place.
#9
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Just to add a little detail to the comment above.
Replaceable derailleur hangers are made of aluminum for two reasons.
1. If you hit the rear derailleur (crash or drop bike) the hanger will bend and not the frame.
2. You can bend the hanger using a “Hanger Alignment Tool” to adjust and ensure the rear derailleur is aligned with the wheel.
New hangers are not pre-aligned and should be aligned at the time they are installed to the frame.
You can’t eyeball this, tolerance is only ~3mm at the wheel rim.
Failure to align the hanger can result in poor shifting that you just can’t adjust out.
All the best
Barry
Replaceable derailleur hangers are made of aluminum for two reasons.
1. If you hit the rear derailleur (crash or drop bike) the hanger will bend and not the frame.
2. You can bend the hanger using a “Hanger Alignment Tool” to adjust and ensure the rear derailleur is aligned with the wheel.
New hangers are not pre-aligned and should be aligned at the time they are installed to the frame.
You can’t eyeball this, tolerance is only ~3mm at the wheel rim.
Failure to align the hanger can result in poor shifting that you just can’t adjust out.
All the best
Barry
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#10
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Just to add a little detail to the comment above.
Replaceable derailleur hangers are made of aluminum for two reasons.
1. If you hit the rear derailleur (crash or drop bike) the hanger will bend and not the frame.
2. You can bend the hanger using a “Hanger Alignment Tool” to adjust and ensure the rear derailleur is aligned with the wheel.
New hangers are not pre-aligned and should be aligned at the time they are installed to the frame.
You can’t eyeball this, tolerance is only ~3mm at the wheel rim.
Failure to align the hanger can result in poor shifting that you just can’t adjust out.
All the best
Barry
Replaceable derailleur hangers are made of aluminum for two reasons.
1. If you hit the rear derailleur (crash or drop bike) the hanger will bend and not the frame.
2. You can bend the hanger using a “Hanger Alignment Tool” to adjust and ensure the rear derailleur is aligned with the wheel.
New hangers are not pre-aligned and should be aligned at the time they are installed to the frame.
You can’t eyeball this, tolerance is only ~3mm at the wheel rim.
Failure to align the hanger can result in poor shifting that you just can’t adjust out.
All the best
Barry
Not familiar with new hangers. Hopefully this is not one of those new hangers
you mentioned since i don’t have an alignment tool. This is a Union GH-192. I’m hoping i just need to install it without any need to align it.
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Align it, don’t align it, your choice. (BTW it’s all hangers that should be aligned)
But at least now if you have shifting issues, I hope you won’t buy a new derailleur.
Barry
But at least now if you have shifting issues, I hope you won’t buy a new derailleur.
Barry
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#13
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Dang. I thought i just need to put the new hanger, then the rd and wheels, do some tune up and that’s it. Didn’t know i need to do alignment check. How do i align this though, would i need an alignment tool? Don’t have one. Btw the screws are bolted from the inside of the frame.
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Dang. I thought i just need to put the new hanger, then the rd and wheels, do some tune up and that’s it. Didn’t know i need to do alignment check. How do i align this though, would i need an alignment tool? Don’t have one. Btw the screws are bolted from the inside of the frame.
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...nt-gauge-dag-3
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If I turned up at my local bike store with the derailleur removed and needing the alignment only, they charged me ($20 cash in the beer fund I suspect) and did it on the spot while I waited.
If you needed the derailleur adjusted as well, then they wanted to keep the bike.
I now own the tool and check/align hangers for me and my buddies. Cost is usually IPA or coffee.
My 11 speed and 12 speed bikes just need to topple over on their righthand side to require a realignment.
The tool has more than paid for itself.
Barry
BTW - As with all tools there are cheaper options than the name brands, for infrequent use these will likely be fine.
If you needed the derailleur adjusted as well, then they wanted to keep the bike.
I now own the tool and check/align hangers for me and my buddies. Cost is usually IPA or coffee.
My 11 speed and 12 speed bikes just need to topple over on their righthand side to require a realignment.
The tool has more than paid for itself.
Barry
BTW - As with all tools there are cheaper options than the name brands, for infrequent use these will likely be fine.
#17
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If I turned up at my local bike store with the derailleur removed and needing the alignment only, they charged me ($20 cash in the beer fund I suspect) and did it on the spot while I waited.
If you needed the derailleur adjusted as well, then they wanted to keep the bike.
I now own the tool and check/align hangers for me and my buddies. Cost is usually IPA or coffee.
My 11 speed and 12 speed bikes just need to topple over on their righthand side to require a realignment.
The tool has more than paid for itself.
Barry
BTW - As with all tools there are cheaper options than the name brands, for infrequent use these will likely be fine.
If you needed the derailleur adjusted as well, then they wanted to keep the bike.
I now own the tool and check/align hangers for me and my buddies. Cost is usually IPA or coffee.
My 11 speed and 12 speed bikes just need to topple over on their righthand side to require a realignment.
The tool has more than paid for itself.
Barry
BTW - As with all tools there are cheaper options than the name brands, for infrequent use these will likely be fine.
Anyway, i’ll go check out some alignment tools first. Is this easy to learn?
Last edited by iamLefty; 03-16-23 at 10:17 AM.
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#18
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Yes it's easy to do.
Just go really SLOW and don't over bend the hanger.
Being aluminum they will only take so much bending.
Barry
Just go really SLOW and don't over bend the hanger.
Being aluminum they will only take so much bending.
Barry
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Assuming you mean "easy," then yes. Watch a couple YouTube videos. You'll thank yourself in the end for learning how to do it yourself.
Don't let specialized tools scare you. That's why they were designed--to make jobs easier, not more complicated.
Don't let specialized tools scare you. That's why they were designed--to make jobs easier, not more complicated.
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#20
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Yes it's easy to do.
Just go really SLOW and don't over bend the hanger.
Being aluminum they will only take so much bending.
Barry
Just go really SLOW and don't over bend the hanger.
Being aluminum they will only take so much bending.
Barry
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#21
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#22
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I’m a bit new to this, why i’m both excited and a bit scared to cause some damage. I usually just bring the bike to a mechanic. But now i wanted to learn on my own, make this a new hobby. I’ll see if i can find a decently priced alignment tool.
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