Red Loctite 271 Question
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Red Loctite 271 Question
Not really C&V, but I suspect folks here will have had experience with it... I need to secure a stainless steel water bottle boss in an aluminum cable stop.
Can I use Loctite Red 271 for this or is it strictly for threaded contacts?
Can I use Loctite Red 271 for this or is it strictly for threaded contacts?
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It will likely wick into the interface with a little help by prying open the slot if necessary, and will make for a strong bond.
A slight interference-fit is best, and can perhaps be effected by squeezing the hole slightly in a vise, at which point you wouldn't need any LocTite.
I've used the red LocTite many times for things like bonding a loose-fitting lower headset race onto a fork steerer, or bonding a round nut into the socket on the ear of the seat lug, or securing a pedal into a stripped-out mtb crankarm!.
I even used this stuff for retaining the main bearings into the worn-out cradles in the engine cases of a 10,000 rpm motorcycle dragster, and the LocTite didn't go anywhere between rebuilds (despite the severe loading and certain amount of flex).
A slight interference-fit is best, and can perhaps be effected by squeezing the hole slightly in a vise, at which point you wouldn't need any LocTite.
I've used the red LocTite many times for things like bonding a loose-fitting lower headset race onto a fork steerer, or bonding a round nut into the socket on the ear of the seat lug, or securing a pedal into a stripped-out mtb crankarm!.
I even used this stuff for retaining the main bearings into the worn-out cradles in the engine cases of a 10,000 rpm motorcycle dragster, and the LocTite didn't go anywhere between rebuilds (despite the severe loading and certain amount of flex).
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Red will work perfect if you have it. If you need to run to the store, buy "green" Loctite aka Sleeve Retainer. Its the same thing but less viscous with capillary action.
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Loctite Black Max is marketed as an alternative to silver soldering for gun sights. If I was doing this I would try and "knurl" the insert to improve the resistance to spinning when you turn the threaded adjustor. For something like this I would scratch up the outer surface of the inset withthe tip of a razor blade.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod6139.aspx
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod6139.aspx
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AndrewRStewart
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If you want to bond, epoxy is the way to go. JB Weld is what you want.
Alternatively, get yourself a threaded insert with the proper internal threading for the adjuster you plan to use.
Tap threads into the hanger. Install the threaded insert using LocTite.
Screw in the adjuster.
Alternatively, get yourself a threaded insert with the proper internal threading for the adjuster you plan to use.
Tap threads into the hanger. Install the threaded insert using LocTite.
Screw in the adjuster.
#9
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It will likely wick into the interface with a little help by prying open the slot if necessary, and will make for a strong bond.
A slight interference-fit is best, and can perhaps be effected by squeezing the hole slightly in a vise, at which point you wouldn't need any LocTite.
I've used the red LocTite many times for things like bonding a loose-fitting lower headset race onto a fork steerer,
A slight interference-fit is best, and can perhaps be effected by squeezing the hole slightly in a vise, at which point you wouldn't need any LocTite.
I've used the red LocTite many times for things like bonding a loose-fitting lower headset race onto a fork steerer,
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Thanks for the responses. In the end, since this is just the initial setup of this bike (trying to get to the point where I can test ride it, at least on rollers), I'm using parts on-hand as much as possible. In the end, I decided to affix the water bottle boss to the hanger with super glue (I will return the unopend red Loctite to the hardware store – that stuff's expensive!). What tension it will see will come from the brakes which will tend to pull it down, so I doubt anything will be going anywhere. Note the "headset spacer" below. I'll eventually replace this setup with something nicer. Or not. (The PVC will get replaced, at least.) We'll see how it goes.
My apologies for the crappy photography. My basement has horrible light, but it's too dang cold for an outdoor photo session.
My apologies for the crappy photography. My basement has horrible light, but it's too dang cold for an outdoor photo session.
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It will likely wick into the interface with a little help by prying open the slot if necessary, and will make for a strong bond.
A slight interference-fit is best, and can perhaps be effected by squeezing the hole slightly in a vise, at which point you wouldn't need any LocTite.
I've used the red LocTite many times for things like bonding a loose-fitting lower headset race onto a fork steerer, or bonding a round nut into the socket on the ear of the seat lug, or securing a pedal into a stripped-out mtb crankarm!.
I even used this stuff for retaining the main bearings into the worn-out cradles in the engine cases of a 10,000 rpm motorcycle dragster, and the LocTite didn't go anywhere between rebuilds (despite the severe loading and certain amount of flex).
A slight interference-fit is best, and can perhaps be effected by squeezing the hole slightly in a vise, at which point you wouldn't need any LocTite.
I've used the red LocTite many times for things like bonding a loose-fitting lower headset race onto a fork steerer, or bonding a round nut into the socket on the ear of the seat lug, or securing a pedal into a stripped-out mtb crankarm!.
I even used this stuff for retaining the main bearings into the worn-out cradles in the engine cases of a 10,000 rpm motorcycle dragster, and the LocTite didn't go anywhere between rebuilds (despite the severe loading and certain amount of flex).