Hypno Toad

This is an ego-related question: is there a way to update a Garmin file to fill in the data when it when into auto-pause because I was walking?

Long story: I biked Mauna Kea last Monday. I rode the 'easy' route, starting at Waikōloa Beach (Kona side), I made it to the Mauna Kea Visitor Center (9,200 ft) and despite feeling OK, I knew that I wouldn't make it to the summit (it took me 6 hours to cover the easy 2/3 of the climb). In the last mile to the visitor's center, the road holds 17% and kicks to 18%; I ran out of gears and needed to walk that's when my Garmin went into auto-pause. It took me a minute to realize what happened, I turned-off auto-pause, but lost about 15 minutes. So my track looks like I skipped 1/4-mile.

I'm annoyed by this lost data because it messed up a ton of Strava segments on the toughest part of the climb. But I'm aware that this is likely a lost cause, I'll just need to go back to revisit this climb and get it right.

(In a week or so, I'll be sharing a post with my more details on this epic adventure)

njkayaker

Maybe, this would let you do what you want.

https://www.goldencheetah.org/

Barry2 

Once paused I believe the data is not longer recorded, there is nothing to "recover".

If you have ridden that route more than once you could try stitching two fit files together.

This is do it Fit File Tools

All the best

Barry

Iride01 

The track points you did record all have a time stamp on them. So you'll know from start to finish if you made that segment in a record time for you. However any finagling with the missing data would make it a legitimate gripe for others that compare their times to others on that segment.

But if you just want to show a somewhat accurate track for what you did to show to others, then the tools to edit that are fine. RWGPS gives you some tools and I thought Strava did too. But I've never used them, so maybe they don't work like I imagine them.

pdlamb

I think you could patch things together with fitfiletools, although timing will be a bit off. Use the Section Remover tool to trim out the paused section. IIRC there's a way you can adjust the timing (via checkbox) so the times on the end of the ride are adjusted to match the first half.

mschwett 

you can build a new track using the gotoes tools. create a route for the missing piece with rideWithGPS or anything you want. take that file and plug it into
https://gotoes.org/gotoes/strava/Add...mps_To_GPX.php

with the start and end time. it’ll make a new file that you can then merge into the others with this ohr

https://gotoes.org/gotoes/strava/Com..._FIT_Files.php

if i recall, it can even adjust the speed based on grade.

it’s a bit of a pain but it works well.

Polaris OBark

It would probably be much simpler and far easier to just ride it again with auto-pause turned off than it would be to mess with editing software.

But seriously, I have a steep hill on my commute home, between 17% and 21%, and although I insist on grinding away, rather than walking, I think I am going slower when I do this. The Garmin frequently auto-pauses, as if to taunt me for being so slow. Nonetheless, the Garmin/Strava record is contiguous.

Hypno Toad

I've been home from Hawai'i for a few days, and the revisit is already on the drawing board... and lucky for me Frau Toad seems to enjoy the islands

This ride is the first time I can remember walking a paved road, I only walk the bike on loose gravel or snow, but something about 5 hours climbing to nearly 8,000 feet with nearly no down grades, and getting off to walk seemed less defeating

My next question, what are the benefits of auto-pause? I'm trying to think of a good reason to enable auto-pause on any of my activity profiles. To be clear, this has never been an issue over many years of using Garmin units, but I've never really seen good reason to use it either.

Hypno Toad

Nice, I'll check it out!

Iride01 

I use auto pause on my Garmin's all the time for cycling. The only real benefit for me is that I get my somewhat actual moving time and not the time I was stopped at red lights or other places.

I got in the habit of setting mine to pause when < 3 mph. On an old Edge 500 I had issues with auto pause on it when set to zero mph and that seemed to end the weird issues I was getting with it while actually moving. Don't know if that same issue exists with my Edge 530, but I set it to do the same from day 1 of use.

Possibly auto pause works best with a wheel sensor installed. But I don't know if the software even considers the wheel sensor input to determine if I'm stopped.

Oh... By the way, congrat's on your climb!

pdlamb

On very long rides or when your battery is low, auto-pause will shut the unit off when you stop for a long lunch.

I think the longer battery life units Garmin has been making lately obviates this "advantage."

Iride01 

Actually that is auto shutdown.

prj71

Actual moving time. Sometime I take rides that are 3 hours long but my actual moving time is only 2-1/2. Usually due to taking a break or waiting for others in the group to catch up.

I like to know the actual moving time. If I have a situation where I have some time constraints then I know I can complete X miles on X trail or X roads in X time.

rm -rf

For rides with a store stop, this keeps the Garmin from recording my walking the bike through the parking lot, and the natural random drift of the GPS looks like 1 mph movements while the bike is parked.
A wheel speed sensor avoids the stopped bike drift recording, so now the auto stop of 1.5 mph is just for excluding walking the bike -- but that's what you needed!

EDIT--I checked my 1030 settings: Auto Pause is set to "when stopped". I think that's okay, I don't really care if a bit of rolling the bike during the ride is included.
The Garmin wheel sensor is wrapped around my front hub. I like it--it's faster to respond to actual stops than the GPS method. And it auto adjusts the wheel size for me--nice.

Hypno Toad

That's true, I need auto-pause with my Edge 510.

Last year, I upgraded to the Edge 1040 Solar and this ride on Hawai'i may be the best case solar charging environment with equatorial sun at high elevations.
Starting at 6:30 AM, we don't see the sun above Mauna Kea until after 7:00. And I was riding into sunrise, making it take longer to get the sun on the Garmin's solar cells. But once the sun was on the 1040, I was getting about 15 minutes added for every hour ... and the 1040 already has epic battery life (Garmin claims 45 hours, I haven't had the opportunity to test this yet). So it's gonna be a rare ride I need to auto-pause to save battery life.

pdlamb

Note that's a redundant way to get ride time. On at least the 1030 and later you can select either "ride time" or "elapsed time" as a data field.

Polaris OBark

In all seriousness, congratulations!

I think the only reason it is used is so that when you stop for lunch, or coffee, or a flat tire, you don't have to remember to manually pause it. In other words, if you want to record the actual time, rather than moving time (or the two are the same), there is no reason for it, as far as I am aware. My 530 allows the user to set different thresholds. I have the lowest one, so that even moving the handlebars seems to un-pause it.

Hypno Toad

Thanks! I've adjusted the auto-pause on other devices (like VivoActive watch), but never thought about it on my Edge units ... until last week. 🤓

mschwett 

i have auto-stop and auto-start turned off on all my devices. i just hit the button when i stop, including a long stoplight stop. and as noted, the moving time and total time are recorded separately.

probably works better when only relying on a wheel sensor, but i find the small jumping around of GPS in an urban environment foils auto-start, in particular.