uprightbent

I'd really love to keep "mudguards" on this fine British bike. I just acquired it in 100% original condition, with the Esge chromoplastic fenders, or are they now Bluemels-SKS? I'd much prefer metal fenders, maybe some Honjos, but the chainstay clearance is barely 30mm at the front the rear tire. And the bridge is not drilled either. Clearance elsewhere is plentiful. In the photo you'll see the original plastic fender cut with shoulders to fit down into that space, although current SKS fenders don't seem to offer this cut until you get to 53mm width which I don't need. These are 45's.

My thought is using this original as a guide or template to cut new metal fenders. I know stress points are important to safe and long term fender life, would this narrow tongue I'd end up with become a weak mounting point prone to twisting, cracking, or failure, compared to a full uncut version that should likely be a stronger design? Guess I'd use my Dremel? Any thoughts much appreciated!

nlerner

I've cut several fenders down at that spot, both plastic and alu. I don't think it sees much stress once it's attached at the three other mounting points (brake bridge and two dropouts).

3alarmer 

...when I mount fenders on my bikes, I usually substitute a metal strap for that open hook thingie, and I run it in such a way that the the fender runs closer to the seat tube, away from the tire and wheel.
This makes wheel removal and replacement a little easier. I don't see much advantage in narrowing he fender end to insert it between the stays. You have to form the metal strap so it's tight fit on the stay bridge.

Often, I just reform a metal P clip, like you use to mount racks to seat stays that don't have brazed on fittings.

ThermionicScott 

I'd have no qualms about cutting a new fender to fit between the chainstays. Just file and smooth all of the cut surfaces to prevent stress risers, and make sure the fender isn't being forced into position.

ehcoplex 

While it doesn't address your particular issue/question, I found this series of blog posts on installing metal fenders very informative and helpful.

ehcoplex 

And, hey- how 'bout a picture of the whole bike?

Velo Mule

Instead of cutting the fenders for my LeTour, I added a piece of aluminum about 3-1/2" long x 3/4" wide x 1/8" thick to move the chainstay mounting point for the fender up, This made the fit easy, but for these fenders I wanted more wrap and this trick helped as well.

The mount to the chainstay bridge is one of those stamped steel plates therefore the hole for the fender mount is below the center of the chainstays.


I kept the aluminum bracket full width to act like an extended fener but thinned it where the fender acted as a fender. Easy enough to do with aluminum since it is easy to cut and drill. Which you can see that I also drilled and taped for M5 screws.


These are old SKS Commuter mudguards that for some reason don't have a lot of wrap. Perhaps because they were designed to use only a single stay on the rear fenders and these are cromo-plastic fenders, so if they were longer they would need a second stay.