The Newest and Most Improved Hot or Not
#1501
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The Lynskey was and is hot, the brown one is interesting in itself. Holdsworth? (old eyes) Budget though it may be, it's well thought out, as usual.
Good stuff.
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#1502
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Thanks. I’m definitely enjoying these builds.
Thanks LAJ. Funny you mention Holdsworth because their Competiton frameset is one of a couple steel frames I have in mind for my first steel frame build/bike.
My copper bike is actually the 6061 All-Road from the State Bicycle Co. in Arizona bought it as a frameset.
My copper bike is actually the 6061 All-Road from the State Bicycle Co. in Arizona bought it as a frameset.
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Perhaps a bit C&V-ey for some, but they both run 20 speed Campag so are not as old as they may look. New tyres on the Merckx and tried the Nikor with some deep rimmed old style Shamals, and in my eyes the fat Columbus tubes and deep rims look good together, but I shall ask the crowd, hot or not?
Last edited by botty kayer; 03-26-21 at 01:46 PM.
#1504
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C&V can be hot. Those two are fine examples.
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#1505
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Both those classics are totally gorgeous, especially the Merckx.
Does anyone do a 10s cassette that fits on the old 8s splines? That Merckx would be the ultimate rocking those Shamals.
Does anyone do a 10s cassette that fits on the old 8s splines? That Merckx would be the ultimate rocking those Shamals.
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#1506
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botty kayer, both of your bikes are hot. But the Nikor? That build is so hot it is sick! Fantastic build, I saved an image.
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Thanks guys.
Kimmo I think running 8 speed on a 9/10/11 speed freehub with extra spacers can be done easy enough, but think you'd run into problems fitting a 10 speed on an 8 speed freehub as the former requires a longer freehub doesn't it? I think you'd need a longer axle too and I'm guessing even if you got one and put a newer 9/10/11 speed freehub, wouldn't you need to re-dish the wheel too?
Sorry I'm not expert so that may not be the case. However the later versions of the Shamals like I have on the Nikor above, came with the newer 9/10//11 speed freehubs anyway, so they fit straight into the Merckx and its 10 speed as they are and work fine. I've not tried the silver Shamals with the Merckx as I've got some black Shamals with yellow lettering also running 10 speed that I think looks better with that particular bike
.
Kimmo I think running 8 speed on a 9/10/11 speed freehub with extra spacers can be done easy enough, but think you'd run into problems fitting a 10 speed on an 8 speed freehub as the former requires a longer freehub doesn't it? I think you'd need a longer axle too and I'm guessing even if you got one and put a newer 9/10/11 speed freehub, wouldn't you need to re-dish the wheel too?
Sorry I'm not expert so that may not be the case. However the later versions of the Shamals like I have on the Nikor above, came with the newer 9/10//11 speed freehubs anyway, so they fit straight into the Merckx and its 10 speed as they are and work fine. I've not tried the silver Shamals with the Merckx as I've got some black Shamals with yellow lettering also running 10 speed that I think looks better with that particular bike
.
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#1508
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WHAM! Hot AF. Why the hell did you post it with those boring 32s when you had those? Hot damn!
That's how Shimano goes, but it's more complicated for Campy, they changed their splines at some point, I think it was when they went 9s. However, cramming ten cogs on a 8s cassette body would be totally doable if you had the means to machine a billet cassette to suit, since Shimano didn't try as hard as they could to package the cassette tightly, and Campy tried even less hard. Increasing dish shouldn't be necessary. I modified a billet 10s cassette to fit a Shimano RS80 wheel I retrofit with a 7s cassette body to reduce the dish, and Campy's 8s cassette spacing was wider than Shimano's. If the cassette is wider than the splines, it can be made to overhang on the flange side quite a bit. Although on a Shimano hub there's probably a bit more flexibility with closing the gap between cassette body and dropout a tad, I'm sure it's still possible.
Kimmo I think running 8 speed on a 9/10/11 speed freehub with extra spacers can be done easy enough, but think you'd run into problems fitting a 10 speed on an 8 speed freehub as the former requires a longer freehub doesn't it? I think you'd need a longer axle too and I'm guessing even if you got one and put a newer 9/10/11 speed freehub, wouldn't you need to re-dish the wheel too?.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
#1509
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Thanks guys.
Kimmo I think running 8 speed on a 9/10/11 speed freehub with extra spacers can be done easy enough, but think you'd run into problems fitting a 10 speed on an 8 speed freehub as the former requires a longer freehub doesn't it? I think you'd need a longer axle too and I'm guessing even if you got one and put a newer 9/10/11 speed freehub, wouldn't you need to re-dish the wheel too?
Sorry I'm not expert so that may not be the case. However the later versions of the Shamals like I have on the Nikor above, came with the newer 9/10//11 speed freehubs anyway, so they fit straight into the Merckx and its 10 speed as they are and work fine. I've not tried the silver Shamals with the Merckx as I've got some black Shamals with yellow lettering also running 10 speed that I think looks better with that particular bike
.
Kimmo I think running 8 speed on a 9/10/11 speed freehub with extra spacers can be done easy enough, but think you'd run into problems fitting a 10 speed on an 8 speed freehub as the former requires a longer freehub doesn't it? I think you'd need a longer axle too and I'm guessing even if you got one and put a newer 9/10/11 speed freehub, wouldn't you need to re-dish the wheel too?
Sorry I'm not expert so that may not be the case. However the later versions of the Shamals like I have on the Nikor above, came with the newer 9/10//11 speed freehubs anyway, so they fit straight into the Merckx and its 10 speed as they are and work fine. I've not tried the silver Shamals with the Merckx as I've got some black Shamals with yellow lettering also running 10 speed that I think looks better with that particular bike
.
Yep Hotter that way. They're all hot.
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#1510
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*fapfapfap*
Lol, why not post the bike wearing those perfect wheels in the first place...
*fapfapfap*
Now give it a nice background!
Lol, why not post the bike wearing those perfect wheels in the first place...
*fapfapfap*
Now give it a nice background!
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
#1511
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Figured id share my race bike for this year.
- Frame: Spooky Mulholland 54cm - deep navy blue
- Fork: Enve 2.0
- Chris king inset 8 headset - Black
- 3t ARX II stem with logos removed - 130mm -6
- Pro Vibe Carbon bars 40cm C-C
- Arundel Gecko Grip bar tape - Black
- K-Edge Wahoo mount
- Ritchey Superlogic Seatpost
- Woodman deathgrip-SL seat post clamp - Black
- Pro Stealth carbon railed saddle
- Shimano Ultegra R8000 Groupo
- Shimano Dura ace 9000 pedals
- Jagwire Elite Ling Shift/Brake cable and housing - Black
- Rotor 3D+ 170mm crank with 53/38 Rotor chainrings
- Power2Max NG eco powermeter
- Kogel BSA 30 ceramic BB
- Tacx bottle changes
- HED Jet 4+ Black with labels removed and updated ceramic bearings (know people on the inside)
- GP5000 25mm tires
- Gold HED skewer caps for fun - also were a gift from said person on the "inside"
- Frame: Spooky Mulholland 54cm - deep navy blue
- Fork: Enve 2.0
- Chris king inset 8 headset - Black
- 3t ARX II stem with logos removed - 130mm -6
- Pro Vibe Carbon bars 40cm C-C
- Arundel Gecko Grip bar tape - Black
- K-Edge Wahoo mount
- Ritchey Superlogic Seatpost
- Woodman deathgrip-SL seat post clamp - Black
- Pro Stealth carbon railed saddle
- Shimano Ultegra R8000 Groupo
- Shimano Dura ace 9000 pedals
- Jagwire Elite Ling Shift/Brake cable and housing - Black
- Rotor 3D+ 170mm crank with 53/38 Rotor chainrings
- Power2Max NG eco powermeter
- Kogel BSA 30 ceramic BB
- Tacx bottle changes
- HED Jet 4+ Black with labels removed and updated ceramic bearings (know people on the inside)
- GP5000 25mm tires
- Gold HED skewer caps for fun - also were a gift from said person on the "inside"
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#1512
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Size and position, wheels and groupset: present and correct for hotness.
Something about the stubby seat on the fat seatpost doesn't vibe with that 130 stern... Maybe a double wrap on the bars would make it look balanced?
And I'm not a fan of those Rotor rings... Chainrings should have holes in em IMO. Looks like it came off a freestyle bike.
Other than that, paint the fork to match, and do something with that Spooky logo - either ditch it or match something to it.
Something about the stubby seat on the fat seatpost doesn't vibe with that 130 stern... Maybe a double wrap on the bars would make it look balanced?
And I'm not a fan of those Rotor rings... Chainrings should have holes in em IMO. Looks like it came off a freestyle bike.
Other than that, paint the fork to match, and do something with that Spooky logo - either ditch it or match something to it.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Last edited by Kimmo; 04-02-21 at 06:14 PM.
#1513
Senior Member
MakiNn,
Spooky bikes rock. Yours is ridiculously hot. Sounds like you have picked the parts to create a true custom build. Kudos.
Spooky bikes rock. Yours is ridiculously hot. Sounds like you have picked the parts to create a true custom build. Kudos.
#1514
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#1515
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Size and position, wheels and groupset: present and correct for hotness.
Something about the stubby seat on the fat seatpost doesn't vibe with that 130 stern... Maybe a double wrap on the bars would make it look balanced?
And I'm not a fan of those Rotor rings... Chainrings should have holes in em IMO. Looks like it came off a freestyle bike.
Other than that, paint the fork to match, and do something with that Spooky logo - either ditch it or match something to it.
Something about the stubby seat on the fat seatpost doesn't vibe with that 130 stern... Maybe a double wrap on the bars would make it look balanced?
And I'm not a fan of those Rotor rings... Chainrings should have holes in em IMO. Looks like it came off a freestyle bike.
Other than that, paint the fork to match, and do something with that Spooky logo - either ditch it or match something to it.
Oh, and it's damn annoying that Conti didn't put the labels on the GP5000 180° apart.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
#1516
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As for the shorter saddle looking back at the picture it looks odd and I truly believe it might be the angle playing some tricks a it looks different in person but i do understand where you are coming from. Dang Spooky and your odd sense to use a 30.9mm seat post on a road bike.
#1517
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That Spooky is damn hot!
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#1518
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I like the Spooky a lot. Way hot.
#1519
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After riding a light carbon 27.2 post in a compact frame, everything else just seems stupid. My 06 TCR Advanced looks sexy as hell, but that aero ISP kinda sucks next to 8" of round FSA carbon.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
#1520
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I'd race this too if I had this + a fan of Spooky frames. Definitely HOT.
I spend more than half my time riding in the drops. I've got short nose saddles on both my bikes; Fizik Vento Argo and Vento Tempo and these have been some of the best changes I've done in regards to fit and comfort.
I spend more than half my time riding in the drops. I've got short nose saddles on both my bikes; Fizik Vento Argo and Vento Tempo and these have been some of the best changes I've done in regards to fit and comfort.
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#1521
Senior Member
Yeah, that kills it for me. Not only is it way too big, it's odd - what the hell.
After riding a light carbon 27.2 post in a compact frame, everything else just seems stupid. My 06 TCR Advanced looks sexy as hell, but that aero ISP kinda sucks next to 8" of round FSA carbon.
After riding a light carbon 27.2 post in a compact frame, everything else just seems stupid. My 06 TCR Advanced looks sexy as hell, but that aero ISP kinda sucks next to 8" of round FSA carbon.
#1522
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Yeah, that kills it for me. Not only is it way too big, it's odd - what the hell.
After riding a light carbon 27.2 post in a compact frame, everything else just seems stupid. My 06 TCR Advanced looks sexy as hell, but that aero ISP kinda sucks next to 8" of round FSA carbon.
After riding a light carbon 27.2 post in a compact frame, everything else just seems stupid. My 06 TCR Advanced looks sexy as hell, but that aero ISP kinda sucks next to 8" of round FSA carbon.
#1523
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Sadly, I doubt your post is doing a whole lot to soften the ride much; your top tube is level, meaning less exposed post to flex, and since the stiffness of a tube is proportional to the square of its diameter, your post is about 1.3x stiffer than a similar 27.2 post.
On this old Tarmac I'm referring to, initially I had a boat anchor ally post in there, and the ride was about the same as a traditional steel bike. When I put the FSA post in, it was like my 23 was a 28 - I seriously thought I had a flat. When I felt the tyre, it was weird, like either my fingers or my bum was lying to me. Pretty awesome.
To drag this digression back on topic, I'll make a potentially controversial assertion: if a configuration works better, it looks better, and if you don't think so, you're just wrong.
Those of us who are getting on remember the days when your state of the art road bike was an anachronism next to what was going on in the MTB scene (unless maybe you had a top of the line Klein), and some of us maintain it's been aesthetically downhill since. The rest of us however, have moved with the times.
It's likely these sorts of developments have taken a while to grow on us; I was an instant fan of threadless stems, and was totally into 31.8 bars, but I think it was a while before I preferred the look of them. Compact frames looked weird at first but now they look right to me. Same with Shimano's four arm cranks, but not anyone else's - the way they angled the arms and made one pair bigger just screams optimisation, and that's the thing that's sexy.
Fitness for purpose is an inescapable factor in the aesthetics of a bike, and I'd argue it's fundamental. If it works better, it should look better, and every time it doesn't I ask myself why.
__________________
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Last edited by Kimmo; 04-07-21 at 04:29 AM.
#1524
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Sure, not that 'a reducing shim welded into the frame' is common practice at all, but they chose the tube to use, and they didn't have to pick an uncommon size.
Sadly, I doubt your post is doing a whole lot to soften the ride much; your top tube is level, meaning less exposed post to flex, and since the stiffness of a tube is proportional to the square of its diameter, your post is about 1.3x stiffer than a similar 27.2 post.
On this old Tarmac I'm referring to, initially I had a boat anchor ally post in there, and the ride was about the same as a traditional steel bike. When I put the FSA post in, it was like my 23 was a 28 - I seriously thought I had a flat. When I felt the tyre, it was weird, like either my fingers or my bum was lying to me. Pretty awesome.
To drag this digression back on topic, I'll make a potentially controversial assertion: if a configuration works better, it looks better, and if you don't think so, you're just wrong.
Those of us who are getting on remember the days when your state of the art road bike was an anachronism next to what was going on in the MTB scene (unless maybe you had a top of the line Klein), and some of us maintain it's been aesthetically downhill since. The rest of us however, have moved with the times.
It's likely these sorts of developments have taken a while to grow on us; I was an instant fan of threadless stems, and was totally into 31.8 bars, but I think it was a while before I preferred the look of them. Compact frames looked weird at first but now they look right to me. Same with Shimano's four arm cranks, but not anyone else's - the way they angled the arms and made one pair bigger just screams optimisation, and that's the thing that's sexy.
Fitness for purpose is an inescapable factor in the aesthetics of a bike, and I'd argue it's fundamental. If it works better, it should look better, and every time it doesn't I ask myself why.
Sadly, I doubt your post is doing a whole lot to soften the ride much; your top tube is level, meaning less exposed post to flex, and since the stiffness of a tube is proportional to the square of its diameter, your post is about 1.3x stiffer than a similar 27.2 post.
On this old Tarmac I'm referring to, initially I had a boat anchor ally post in there, and the ride was about the same as a traditional steel bike. When I put the FSA post in, it was like my 23 was a 28 - I seriously thought I had a flat. When I felt the tyre, it was weird, like either my fingers or my bum was lying to me. Pretty awesome.
To drag this digression back on topic, I'll make a potentially controversial assertion: if a configuration works better, it looks better, and if you don't think so, you're just wrong.
Those of us who are getting on remember the days when your state of the art road bike was an anachronism next to what was going on in the MTB scene (unless maybe you had a top of the line Klein), and some of us maintain it's been aesthetically downhill since. The rest of us however, have moved with the times.
It's likely these sorts of developments have taken a while to grow on us; I was an instant fan of threadless stems, and was totally into 31.8 bars, but I think it was a while before I preferred the look of them. Compact frames looked weird at first but now they look right to me. Same with Shimano's four arm cranks, but not anyone else's - the way they angled the arms and made one pair bigger just screams optimisation, and that's the thing that's sexy.
Fitness for purpose is an inescapable factor in the aesthetics of a bike, and I'd argue it's fundamental. If it works better, it should look better, and every time it doesn't I ask myself why.
To drag it back on topic, you change topics like 4 times in one paragraph. Time to move on