alexihnen 

Thanks all! Ok - looks like Sugino and a file or dremel. But, I do have a couple bikes that I feel need that Campagnolo stamp. Off to the WTB…

elcraft

Bicycle Bolts, offers “security” versions of binder bolts in several sizes. These need a special, included hex key to tighten.
See;
https://www.bicyclebolts.com/

repechage

Big dollars but nice

repechage

the rare seat bolts are branded Confente

iab

I’d rather spend the big dollars rather than buying a bargain for a bargain’s sake.

seypat

This doesn't solve the specific needs of the OP. It is a "searching for binder bolt thread though, so the link will be useful down the road.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...se-frames.html

himespau 

If you don't get the full kit, it's about the same as a vintage Campagnolo bolt on eBay. I almost went that route before deciding to try the cheap bolts and a dremel first. 6 weeks after I did that, I got hit by a car and my back hasn't let me on a bike since (the wrecked bike had an old school bolt, so I can't report on longevity.

genejockey 

Last time I broke a Campy binder bolt, I was able to unscrew the broken part of the bolt from the 'nut' side, so I tried threading the 'bolt' part of a spare Sugino binder bolt I had, and danged if it didn't fit! So that's what I'm using on my Battaglin. All you have to do is find that part of the Campy binder bolt after it goes flying out the other side when the bold breaks!

himespau 

Wow, that's a great idea. Will have to see if I still have it. Was going to throw it away, but I think I saved it to make sure I have the same size.

caribou22

Went through the campy bolt binder headache last year with my Marinoni. Check out the thread. https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...nder-bolt.html

Flatforkcrown

this actually looks like a deal, if they don’t snap the first time you over tighten.

https://store.marinonicycles.com/product/1180

Crankycrank

I'm with the Sugino and Dremel the nub off crowd. And turn around the bolt so that you're using the female end to tighten. Reason is that some bikes end up having a slightly bent clamp bolt from brazed on clamps that are slightly large for the seatpost. If you tighten the male end it flexes the bolt with each turn and weakens it.

merziac

Going to chime in to remind and encourage us to check the bolt itself for binding and galling, bottoming out from pinched ears/too small post.

I also always add a smidge of grease or anti-seize to the threads and also carefully use two allen keys when necessary.

genejockey 

This was the problem I had with the binder on a Lotus I acquired. The binder bolt came to a hard stop in the process of tightening but the seatpost could still move. I took it out, measured it, and got the next smaller Sugino binder bolt. Problem solved.

VintageSteelEU

You can find them on the auction site (or your LBS) way cheaper than that. Unless you're hellbent to have a Campy one. Both the serrated and keyed ones are very common, the only concern is the length (and various ones are available) and type you want. I use something with Cro Moly engraved on it and it works just fine. But then again, I generally don't care much about paying crazy money just because something that has some brand slapped on it (whatever the brand). I'd be probably willing to bet that a 10 bucks one and "Campy" one are possibly coming from the same production line in some East Asian location. It's not a complicated, mechanical part where you could have a lot of difference when it comes to quality. Sure, there could be better or worse materials or finish, but in the end it's just a bolt.

genejockey 

Pretty sure the Campy ones are made in a glass factory.

santa fe 2926 

needed a seat post bolt, so I ordered two from Richard Sachs. Unfortunately for me, they require reaming the ears with an eight millimeter drill bit.
I don’t have any machinists skill, nor do I make frames, no drill press, and I really don’t want to change the size of the hole. I wonder if Richard would take them back, as there weren’t any reaming instructions on the site descriptions.

Classtime 

Don't they come in a neat little box? And didn't Richard send a little artwork? And you must have a nicknack shelf some where! (Rat tail file).

santa fe 2926 

Little zip lock bags, with instructions, greasing, reaming, and good luck.

repechage

how about an image or two of the seatlug ears you are working with?

scarlson 

The Campy ones only break the "male" half. The solution is simple: get an east Asian replacement bolt and put it in your repair kit for when you break the Campy bolt. When you break the Campy bolt, you screw the "male" half of the east Asian replacement bolt into the "female" half of the Campy bolt, and then you have a reliable system. Make sure the threads match!!

I recently bought some unbranded French ones made of color anodized aluminum off Ebay as a gag gift for my friend, who has broken two Campy ones.

himespau 

The trick is getting the male side out as it often breaks off flush with the top of the female side.

scarlson 

I must be lucky - the few times I've dealt with it, the fragment has just come right out, either by hand (smush your thumb against the broken surface and twist) or at worst with a small amount of prodding from a dental pick. I can see how deformation during the breakage could lead to it getting quite stuck.

himespau 

I do have 2 broken bolts saved that I don't think I've tried getting the bolt out, so I will give your trick a try. If it works, it'll be worth the couple bucks for a cheap asian male part. Assuming I didn't actually get around to throwing them away in my rare moods of actually throwing away broken stuff instead of saving it to fix "later".

scarlson 

One other tip if the dental pick or thumb don't work, is to try drilling from the backside. The hole in the backside serves as a convenient drill guide to keep you lined up. And, if you hold the female bolt in a vise or even vise grips and exert sufficient pressure on the drill, it may "bite" and unscrew the bolt fragment.

Looking at the Campy one I have (I guess I should sell it if I can really get $75!!) and an east Asian one, I can see why the Campy ones break. The Campy ones' threads are clearly machined - cut with a die - while the east Asian one I have is clearly rolled, meaning there are fewer stress risers and the grain of the metal is not cut through.