My FSIR Spin 3.0
11-12-18, 03:35 AM
#51
Junior Member
...found a litepro headset in my spares to check closer. Forget what i said about different comes, they have a different approach on that, had that prob before with Gineyea and FnHon headsets. From here i have no idea yet, if it is all mounted correctly, it should work and be without play if tightened. If, under tension, the standover of the fork stem, exceeds the length of the clamping range of the handlepost base mount, there will be play. You might count the rotations of the expander screw from loose on top until all the way in. If you reach the same point with mounted post, it is too long then you have to keep looking for a spacer/washer, a normal headset spacer might do it if it fits into the hole.
11-18-18, 08:18 PM
#52
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It's really hard to understand what exactly is loose in your headset with your description, but the photo you've uploaded shows the fork stem below the level of the clamping part of the handlepost (where the washer is supposed to fit), so technically you should be able to screw in the cap/nut all the way to get it tight with zero play.
One thing that might be happening is the cones (or crowns? I don't know the correct name) compressing as you tighten the cap/nut, causing the fork stem to become longer and higher than the level of the clamping part of the handlepost. If you had the corrected sized washer and the stem came past above it, then this would be the cause of your problem. But you showed another photo with your oversized copper washer sitting much higher than where it's supposed to be, so if it's still loose with the oversized washer and you've tightened it as much as possible, then this would not be the cause of the play.
When I installed my Litepro headset on my dahon bike, I did have problems with looseness, and that was caused by the compression of the cones, because they're cut with a slit. They weren't fully compressed. All i did to fix this was to tighten the cap/nut until the compression stopped. The instruction manual says to tighten the cap/nut to 8-10Nm. So I took a torque wrench and set it to 10Nm and turned until there was no more compression. Then I backed off and set it to 9Nm.
If you're looking for a copper washer, you could try looking at a dahon dealer for a replacement washer, but they may be too narrow if your fork stem is too long:
https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bi...g-to-the-left/
Or look on eBay or a large hardware store that might have pipe fitting washers. You might be able to find something with DIN7603A. If the fork stem is too long, then choose a washer with inner diameter larger than the fork stem. The DIN 7603A washers are thick though, so they'll be around 1.5-2mm, but the extra thickness will help if the fork stem is too long, to bring the cap/nut above the surface of the fork stem:
https://www.schrauben-lexikon.de/norm/DIN_7603A.asp
Also, check that the cups are fully inserted into the headset tube. The side photo looks like it is. The lower crown is the wider one with the flange. The upper crown is the narrower one. In your side photo, the cover with the "Litepro" logo, is it sitting flush, or is there something wrong with the fit?
One thing that might be happening is the cones (or crowns? I don't know the correct name) compressing as you tighten the cap/nut, causing the fork stem to become longer and higher than the level of the clamping part of the handlepost. If you had the corrected sized washer and the stem came past above it, then this would be the cause of your problem. But you showed another photo with your oversized copper washer sitting much higher than where it's supposed to be, so if it's still loose with the oversized washer and you've tightened it as much as possible, then this would not be the cause of the play.
When I installed my Litepro headset on my dahon bike, I did have problems with looseness, and that was caused by the compression of the cones, because they're cut with a slit. They weren't fully compressed. All i did to fix this was to tighten the cap/nut until the compression stopped. The instruction manual says to tighten the cap/nut to 8-10Nm. So I took a torque wrench and set it to 10Nm and turned until there was no more compression. Then I backed off and set it to 9Nm.
If you're looking for a copper washer, you could try looking at a dahon dealer for a replacement washer, but they may be too narrow if your fork stem is too long:
https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bi...g-to-the-left/
Or look on eBay or a large hardware store that might have pipe fitting washers. You might be able to find something with DIN7603A. If the fork stem is too long, then choose a washer with inner diameter larger than the fork stem. The DIN 7603A washers are thick though, so they'll be around 1.5-2mm, but the extra thickness will help if the fork stem is too long, to bring the cap/nut above the surface of the fork stem:
https://www.schrauben-lexikon.de/norm/DIN_7603A.asp
Also, check that the cups are fully inserted into the headset tube. The side photo looks like it is. The lower crown is the wider one with the flange. The upper crown is the narrower one. In your side photo, the cover with the "Litepro" logo, is it sitting flush, or is there something wrong with the fit?
Last edited by tomtomtom123; 11-18-18 at 08:28 PM.
11-18-18, 08:33 PM
#53
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Here is a photo from handsonbike blog,
https://handsonbike.blogspot.com/201...adset-for.html
The cover with the "litepro" logo sits pretty close/flush with the cups. your photo shows your cover sitting very high. This could be due to not compressing the crowns enough. So try tightening the cap/nut to 10Nm and see if it gets lower. I also found that after riding 10, 20, 30km on a newly installed litepro headset, I had to tighten it again 2-3 times as the parts settled in and compressed further.
If you decide to use copper washer DIN 7603A, it's very soft, and if you use a thick one, it might actually start to squish and get thinner, so you might have to tighten the cap/nut after some time.
https://handsonbike.blogspot.com/201...adset-for.html
The cover with the "litepro" logo sits pretty close/flush with the cups. your photo shows your cover sitting very high. This could be due to not compressing the crowns enough. So try tightening the cap/nut to 10Nm and see if it gets lower. I also found that after riding 10, 20, 30km on a newly installed litepro headset, I had to tighten it again 2-3 times as the parts settled in and compressed further.
If you decide to use copper washer DIN 7603A, it's very soft, and if you use a thick one, it might actually start to squish and get thinner, so you might have to tighten the cap/nut after some time.
Last edited by tomtomtom123; 11-18-18 at 08:41 PM.
11-18-18, 08:55 PM
#54
Junior Member
It's really hard to understand what exactly is loose in your headset with your description, but the photo you've uploaded shows the fork stem below the level of the clamping part of the handlepost (where the washer is supposed to fit), so technically you should be able to screw in the cap/nut all the way to get it tight with zero play.
One thing that might be happening is the cones (or crowns? I don't know the correct name) compressing as you tighten the cap/nut, causing the fork stem to become longer and higher than the level of the clamping part of the handlepost. If you had the corrected sized washer and the stem came past above it, then this would be the cause of your problem. But you showed another photo with your oversized copper washer sitting much higher than where it's supposed to be, so if it's still loose with the oversized washer and you've tightened it as much as possible, then this would not be the cause of the play.
When I installed my Litepro headset on my dahon bike, I did have problems with looseness, and that was caused by the compression of the cones, because they're cut with a slit. They weren't fully compressed. All i did to fix this was to tighten the cap/nut until the compression stopped. The instruction manual says to tighten the cap/nut to 8-10Nm. So I took a torque wrench and set it to 10Nm and turned until there was no more compression. Then I backed off and set it to 9Nm.
If you're looking for a copper washer, you could try looking at a dahon dealer for a replacement washer, but they may be too narrow if your fork stem is too long:
https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bi...g-to-the-left/
Or look on eBay or a large hardware store that might have pipe fitting washers. You might be able to find something with DIN7603A. If the fork stem is too long, then choose a washer with inner diameter larger than the fork stem. The DIN 7603A washers are thick though, so they'll be around 1.5-2mm, but the extra thickness will help if the fork stem is too long, to bring the cap/nut above the surface of the fork stem:
https://www.schrauben-lexikon.de/norm/DIN_7603A.asp
Also, check that the cups are fully inserted into the headset tube. The side photo looks like it is. The lower crown is the wider one with the flange. The upper crown is the narrower one. In your side photo, the cover with the "Litepro" logo, is it sitting flush, or is there something wrong with the fit?
One thing that might be happening is the cones (or crowns? I don't know the correct name) compressing as you tighten the cap/nut, causing the fork stem to become longer and higher than the level of the clamping part of the handlepost. If you had the corrected sized washer and the stem came past above it, then this would be the cause of your problem. But you showed another photo with your oversized copper washer sitting much higher than where it's supposed to be, so if it's still loose with the oversized washer and you've tightened it as much as possible, then this would not be the cause of the play.
When I installed my Litepro headset on my dahon bike, I did have problems with looseness, and that was caused by the compression of the cones, because they're cut with a slit. They weren't fully compressed. All i did to fix this was to tighten the cap/nut until the compression stopped. The instruction manual says to tighten the cap/nut to 8-10Nm. So I took a torque wrench and set it to 10Nm and turned until there was no more compression. Then I backed off and set it to 9Nm.
If you're looking for a copper washer, you could try looking at a dahon dealer for a replacement washer, but they may be too narrow if your fork stem is too long:
https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bi...g-to-the-left/
Or look on eBay or a large hardware store that might have pipe fitting washers. You might be able to find something with DIN7603A. If the fork stem is too long, then choose a washer with inner diameter larger than the fork stem. The DIN 7603A washers are thick though, so they'll be around 1.5-2mm, but the extra thickness will help if the fork stem is too long, to bring the cap/nut above the surface of the fork stem:
https://www.schrauben-lexikon.de/norm/DIN_7603A.asp
Also, check that the cups are fully inserted into the headset tube. The side photo looks like it is. The lower crown is the wider one with the flange. The upper crown is the narrower one. In your side photo, the cover with the "Litepro" logo, is it sitting flush, or is there something wrong with the fit?
I got my headset installed with help at a bike co-op, so I hope that it was done correctly. I wasn't aware that the crowns were different sizes, according to this blog I've been following for guidance, they are the same size. https://handsonbike.blogspot.com/201...adset-for.html
The cups should be fully inserted. The litepro headset cover does not sit completely flush because of the compression ring that is below it and is in contact with the upper bearing cup. I hope I'm not mixing terminology here, assuming the upper bearing cup means the same as upper crown. I had assumed that it being not fully flush was okay, based on other photos I found such as this one:
Last edited by BCATC; 11-18-18 at 09:09 PM.
11-18-18, 09:15 PM
#55
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The cover is not supposed to touch the bearing cup, but it's very close. Mine has less than 1mm gap after the crowns are fully compressed.
11-18-18, 09:20 PM
#56
Junior Member
11-19-18, 08:04 AM
#57
**thusi*st
(RE PAGE 2 of this thread)
If the goal is a second ring, and If no space for a 2nd Chainring (really?) then put a Patterson Crank in. That will give you 28-45 or whatever Ring you put in (130bcd) plus a virtual second ring 160% larger.
If the goal is a second ring, and If no space for a 2nd Chainring (really?) then put a Patterson Crank in. That will give you 28-45 or whatever Ring you put in (130bcd) plus a virtual second ring 160% larger.
12-10-18, 08:13 PM
#58
Junior Member
Just an update on my frame. It's coming along very slowly. I received an FNHON handlepost which fits perfectly onto the steerer tube with zero fuss and the copper washer fits under the headset bolt. Installed Avid SD7 brakes, still figuring out how to dial them in and not be spongy. I also installed the Litepro crank. The 56t chainring is extremely close to the noodle on the rear brake so I'm gonna need to figure that out.
I'm still getting play in the headset/handlepost when I rock the bike back and forth. I've used a torque wrench and tightened it down to about 10nm. Still had play. Tried 15nm, didn't make much of a difference. It's starting to drive me nuts, maybe I'll need to pick up some spacers anyways for this new handlepost to solve it once and for all. Though I'm starting to suspect that something is off about my compression ring that's leaving that gap under the headset cover.
I'm still getting play in the headset/handlepost when I rock the bike back and forth. I've used a torque wrench and tightened it down to about 10nm. Still had play. Tried 15nm, didn't make much of a difference. It's starting to drive me nuts, maybe I'll need to pick up some spacers anyways for this new handlepost to solve it once and for all. Though I'm starting to suspect that something is off about my compression ring that's leaving that gap under the headset cover.
Last edited by BCATC; 12-11-18 at 01:30 AM.
12-11-18, 04:35 AM
#59
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Does the split crown at the very bottom of the assembly fit snugly around the fork? Does it go all the way to the bottom?
Do the 2 cartridge bearings fit tightly in their cups?
Does the upper split ring fit snugly around the fork?
Does the bolt bottom out on the fork threads (runs out of threads), so that the head of the bolt doesn't touch the washer/handlepost? If so, then you need an extra washer.
Are you sure the play is not just from the flexing of the brakes?
Do the 2 cartridge bearings fit tightly in their cups?
Does the upper split ring fit snugly around the fork?
Does the bolt bottom out on the fork threads (runs out of threads), so that the head of the bolt doesn't touch the washer/handlepost? If so, then you need an extra washer.
Are you sure the play is not just from the flexing of the brakes?
12-11-18, 01:44 PM
#60
Junior Member
Does the split crown at the very bottom of the assembly fit snugly around the fork? Does it go all the way to the bottom?
Do the 2 cartridge bearings fit tightly in their cups?
Does the upper split ring fit snugly around the fork?
Does the bolt bottom out on the fork threads (runs out of threads), so that the head of the bolt doesn't touch the washer/handlepost? If so, then you need an extra washer.
Are you sure the play is not just from the flexing of the brakes?
Do the 2 cartridge bearings fit tightly in their cups?
Does the upper split ring fit snugly around the fork?
Does the bolt bottom out on the fork threads (runs out of threads), so that the head of the bolt doesn't touch the washer/handlepost? If so, then you need an extra washer.
Are you sure the play is not just from the flexing of the brakes?
Last edited by BCATC; 12-11-18 at 01:50 PM.
12-11-18, 02:53 PM
#61
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What I mean is whether the split ring is shaky loose, or zero tolerance, or friction fit. Even if it goes on easily, with less than maybe 50 microns of tolerance (which is a pretty good fit), since it has a split in it, it should be able to compress itself into a tight fit. If it's none of the other problems, then more likely the bolt might not be threading all the way in. just adding another washer will determine this. If you don't have another exact sized washer, you could always add a few small m3 washers spread around under the bolt head just to give a 1 or 2 mm extra height to see if that changes anything (only for testing the depth). Don't put full torque if you're using small m3 washers spread around, otherwise you might deform the head of the bolt or the bearing surface. Just do something like 3Nm to see if the extra height changes the play. If you really want to test it correctly, and with full torque, you need another full sized washer that matches the diameter of the bolt.
Last edited by tomtomtom123; 12-11-18 at 02:59 PM.
12-11-18, 06:10 PM
#62
Junior Member
What I mean is whether the split ring is shaky loose, or zero tolerance, or friction fit. Even if it goes on easily, with less than maybe 50 microns of tolerance (which is a pretty good fit), since it has a split in it, it should be able to compress itself into a tight fit. If it's none of the other problems, then more likely the bolt might not be threading all the way in. just adding another washer will determine this. If you don't have another exact sized washer, you could always add a few small m3 washers spread around under the bolt head just to give a 1 or 2 mm extra height to see if that changes anything (only for testing the depth). Don't put full torque if you're using small m3 washers spread around, otherwise you might deform the head of the bolt or the bearing surface. Just do something like 3Nm to see if the extra height changes the play. If you really want to test it correctly, and with full torque, you need another full sized washer that matches the diameter of the bolt.
Edit: I will use this post to publicly make it known that I am an idiot. Long story short, I kept thinking there was no way that the mechanic at the bike co-op made a mistake helping me install this headset. Well, just now I decided to stare at my fork closely for awhile. It turns out this entire time the "compression ring" I've been dealing with was in fact the fork crown race. They were switched and I never questioned it. I just swapped them now, tightened down the compression bolt with only the original copper washer. Zero headset movement. Rookie mistakes. Tom, thanks for dealing with me.
Last edited by BCATC; 12-11-18 at 08:50 PM.
12-12-18, 10:51 AM
#63
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12-12-18, 11:53 AM
#64
**thusi*st
Never seen a drift alert before.. But anyway, It depends on the BB width. Assuming it is 68mm you should be able to do that TCS. I will take a look at a Jifo that I have and see. Might be a good thing for a Jifo come to think of it. 2 Speed then. EEZZ would become 6 speed. I've got a few units available.. Great question really.
01-08-19, 08:27 PM
#65
Junior Member
Thought I'd bump this thread and finally show off my Spin 3 frame that's finally materialized. I would say it's 95% complete. However, for some reason the chain wants to fall off the chainring as soon as I try to shift to the largest rear cog. I'll have to take it apart again and see what I can do with the bottom bracket spacers. I'm currently using 2 spacers on the drive side and 1 on the non drive side. I haven't had the chance to ride it enough to say how much I like it yet but I can tell that it will take time for me to get used to as I've never owned a 16" bike or used v-brakes. The grips will be removed once my bar ends come in the mail.
FSIR Spin 3 frame
Schwalbe 2.0" Big Apple tires
Kinetix Pro wheels
Litepro Hollowtech crank with Litepro 56t chainring
Litepro bottom bracket supplied with crank
Litepro headset
FNHON 44cm handlepost w/ 2 bolt removable face plate
Litepro stem extender
Litepro Ghost handlebar
FNHON 560mm seatpost
Charge Spoon saddle
Shimano Zee RD
Shimano Zee Shifter
Avid SD7 brakes/levers
KMC 10 speed chain
Sunrace 11-36t cassette
In summary, I probably wouldn't go through the trouble of sourcing parts through Taobao again. It's a huge pain to wait and be disappointed when products arrive defective or not quite what you expected. On the flip side, this was a very good learning experience for me.
FSIR Spin 3 frame
Schwalbe 2.0" Big Apple tires
Kinetix Pro wheels
Litepro Hollowtech crank with Litepro 56t chainring
Litepro bottom bracket supplied with crank
Litepro headset
FNHON 44cm handlepost w/ 2 bolt removable face plate
Litepro stem extender
Litepro Ghost handlebar
FNHON 560mm seatpost
Charge Spoon saddle
Shimano Zee RD
Shimano Zee Shifter
Avid SD7 brakes/levers
KMC 10 speed chain
Sunrace 11-36t cassette
In summary, I probably wouldn't go through the trouble of sourcing parts through Taobao again. It's a huge pain to wait and be disappointed when products arrive defective or not quite what you expected. On the flip side, this was a very good learning experience for me.
Last edited by BCATC; 01-08-19 at 08:30 PM.
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01-08-19, 09:05 PM
#66
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Ergon GP1 through GP5 are the best grips.
How did you fix your headset?
The chain will frequently drop off with such a short chainstay length because of the sharp chain angles which will tend to pull the chain off. There are 2 ways to fix this.
attach a chain keeper. You can 3D print your own fairly quickly out of ABS. It just sits 1-2 mm off the left side of the chainring and attaches to the seat tube. If the chain starts getting pulled off, it will hit the chain keeper and drop back down. You can look at Dahon's chain keeper as a reference for your design.
The other option is to use a "narrow wide single chainring" like from Race Face.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod109723
I have used this before on a dahon bike and it actually works to keep the chain on. The teeth alternate between thick and thin. The thick teeth pull the chain further center. The thin teeth allows the chain more space to slide over. These chainrings have no ramps so they are not compatible with front derailleurs.
You can also measure the distances to try centering your chainring to the cassette, by measuring from dropout or the seat tube. I tend to have the single chainring a little bit outward from center of the cassette to prevent the chain from riding up from 10th to 9th cog. It could be up to 1.5 cogs from the center.
How did you fix your headset?
The chain will frequently drop off with such a short chainstay length because of the sharp chain angles which will tend to pull the chain off. There are 2 ways to fix this.
attach a chain keeper. You can 3D print your own fairly quickly out of ABS. It just sits 1-2 mm off the left side of the chainring and attaches to the seat tube. If the chain starts getting pulled off, it will hit the chain keeper and drop back down. You can look at Dahon's chain keeper as a reference for your design.
The other option is to use a "narrow wide single chainring" like from Race Face.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod109723
I have used this before on a dahon bike and it actually works to keep the chain on. The teeth alternate between thick and thin. The thick teeth pull the chain further center. The thin teeth allows the chain more space to slide over. These chainrings have no ramps so they are not compatible with front derailleurs.
You can also measure the distances to try centering your chainring to the cassette, by measuring from dropout or the seat tube. I tend to have the single chainring a little bit outward from center of the cassette to prevent the chain from riding up from 10th to 9th cog. It could be up to 1.5 cogs from the center.
01-08-19, 09:26 PM
#67
Junior Member
Ergon GP1 through GP5 are the best grips.
How did you fix your headset?
The chain will frequently drop off with such a short chainstay length because of the sharp chain angles which will tend to pull the chain off. There are 2 ways to fix this.
attach a chain keeper. You can 3D print your own fairly quickly out of ABS. It just sits 1-2 mm off the left side of the chainring and attaches to the seat tube. If the chain starts getting pulled off, it will hit the chain keeper and drop back down. You can look at Dahon's chain keeper as a reference for your design.
The other option is to use a "narrow wide single chainring" like from Race Face.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod109723
I have used this before on a dahon bike and it actually works to keep the chain on. The teeth alternate between thick and thin. The thick teeth pull the chain further center. The thin teeth allows the chain more space to slide over. These chainrings have no ramps so they are not compatible with front derailleurs.
You can also measure the distances to try centering your chainring to the cassette, by measuring from dropout or the seat tube. I tend to have the single chainring a little bit outward from center of the cassette to prevent the chain from riding up from 10th to 9th cog. It could be up to 1.5 cogs from the center.
How did you fix your headset?
The chain will frequently drop off with such a short chainstay length because of the sharp chain angles which will tend to pull the chain off. There are 2 ways to fix this.
attach a chain keeper. You can 3D print your own fairly quickly out of ABS. It just sits 1-2 mm off the left side of the chainring and attaches to the seat tube. If the chain starts getting pulled off, it will hit the chain keeper and drop back down. You can look at Dahon's chain keeper as a reference for your design.
The other option is to use a "narrow wide single chainring" like from Race Face.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod109723
I have used this before on a dahon bike and it actually works to keep the chain on. The teeth alternate between thick and thin. The thick teeth pull the chain further center. The thin teeth allows the chain more space to slide over. These chainrings have no ramps so they are not compatible with front derailleurs.
You can also measure the distances to try centering your chainring to the cassette, by measuring from dropout or the seat tube. I tend to have the single chainring a little bit outward from center of the cassette to prevent the chain from riding up from 10th to 9th cog. It could be up to 1.5 cogs from the center.
I fixed the headset by correcting a mistake from the bike co-op mechanic. He had switched the crown race with the compression ring. After discovering this error, I swapped them and my headset was nice and tight. I'll play around with my bottom bracket spacers first since I'd rather not spend any more money than I have on this project. Meanwhile I'll try to shop around to see if a silver narrow-wide chainring exists to maintain the aesthetic. I hope riding around on it now as a 9 speed won't do the bike any harm.
01-09-19, 01:00 AM
#68
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When I bought the race face chainring, it was the cheapest I could find locally. I think Hope also makes them.There may be some Chinese ones on AliExpress. I think the color doesn't really matter if you're going to have a silver bash guard covering it anyway and it will get dirty. If you really want silver, you could tape up the teeth and then spray paint the rest with silver paint.
01-09-19, 07:25 PM
#69
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Hi Tom,
I fixed the headset by correcting a mistake from the bike co-op mechanic. He had switched the crown race with the compression ring. After discovering this error, I swapped them and my headset was nice and tight. I'll play around with my bottom bracket spacers first since I'd rather not spend any more money than I have on this project. Meanwhile I'll try to shop around to see if a silver narrow-wide chainring exists to maintain the aesthetic. I hope riding around on it now as a 9 speed won't do the bike any harm.
I fixed the headset by correcting a mistake from the bike co-op mechanic. He had switched the crown race with the compression ring. After discovering this error, I swapped them and my headset was nice and tight. I'll play around with my bottom bracket spacers first since I'd rather not spend any more money than I have on this project. Meanwhile I'll try to shop around to see if a silver narrow-wide chainring exists to maintain the aesthetic. I hope riding around on it now as a 9 speed won't do the bike any harm.
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01-09-19, 07:29 PM
#70
Junior Member
Here is the link to the strap. I purchased it on a whim because it popped up on related searches and was cheaper than the nylon strap I was originally going to purchase from Bike Friday ($12 vs nearly $20 shipped), but I liked that this was leather and I could move it anywhere on the frame so I have better leverage while carrying the bike in either a folded or unfolded position. Can't speak much about the quality or durability of it yet, but it has started to crack from minimal usage. My hands are on the larger side, so carrying the bike with 4 fingers wrapped on the strapped feels fairly uncomfortable as one of the rivets in the leather can dig into my hand.
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=577074776172
01-11-19, 06:04 PM
#71
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Hi,
Here is the link to the strap. I purchased it on a whim because it popped up on related searches and was cheaper than the nylon strap I was originally going to purchase from Bike Friday ($12 vs nearly $20 shipped), but I liked that this was leather and I could move it anywhere on the frame so I have better leverage while carrying the bike in either a folded or unfolded position. Can't speak much about the quality or durability of it yet, but it has started to crack from minimal usage. My hands are on the larger side, so carrying the bike with 4 fingers wrapped on the strapped feels fairly uncomfortable as one of the rivets in the leather can dig into my hand.
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=577074776172
Here is the link to the strap. I purchased it on a whim because it popped up on related searches and was cheaper than the nylon strap I was originally going to purchase from Bike Friday ($12 vs nearly $20 shipped), but I liked that this was leather and I could move it anywhere on the frame so I have better leverage while carrying the bike in either a folded or unfolded position. Can't speak much about the quality or durability of it yet, but it has started to crack from minimal usage. My hands are on the larger side, so carrying the bike with 4 fingers wrapped on the strapped feels fairly uncomfortable as one of the rivets in the leather can dig into my hand.
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=577074776172
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01-19-19, 07:20 PM
#72
Junior Member
Wanted to follow up with my previous post, as my Spin 3 has now most of the problems solved. For anyone else that plans on using this frame and use the same components, the supplied bottom bracket that comes with the Litepro crank must be used with all 3 provided spacers on the non-drive side and use none on the drive side if you intend to go 1x10. The 56t chainring is a little close to the frame, but to me there's still plenty of clearance. Chain line still doesn't appear to be perfect, but it shifts smoothly and I can finally use all 10 rear cogs.
Went on my first ride today with it and it's way more impressive than I'd thought it would be, I'm very happy how it turned out. I'm 6'0" tall with size US 12 shoes but I fit perfectly fine on the bike. I was concerned with my heel hitting the rear chainstay as I've had this problem with other bikes but that hasn't happened with me on the Spin 3. I do recommend to get the Litepro stem extender for that extra bit of reach and adjustability. While the general recommendation has been to use the extender with a T-type handlepost, I have been using it with my FNHON handlepost with a removable faceplate. It fits relatively well and feels stable. Riding this coming from a 700c bike feels like I was driving an SUV to hopping into a Mazda MX5 Miata. Not quite used to the twitchiness yet but now I get why people like to use a front luggage truss to stabilize that a bit.
V-brakes stop too well, to a point where I had close calls with launching myself over the bars... will need to either develop a better touch with the brake levers or maybe space the brake pads farther out. I was anticipating bumps in the road to be spine shattering but I think the Big Apples do their job very well. The other thing to get used is the funny looks people give me as I look huge compared to the bike. My next purchase will likely be quick release pedals of some kind to see if I can reduce some of the size to the bike. I'd also like a kickstand, but I'm not sure what to get.
Went on my first ride today with it and it's way more impressive than I'd thought it would be, I'm very happy how it turned out. I'm 6'0" tall with size US 12 shoes but I fit perfectly fine on the bike. I was concerned with my heel hitting the rear chainstay as I've had this problem with other bikes but that hasn't happened with me on the Spin 3. I do recommend to get the Litepro stem extender for that extra bit of reach and adjustability. While the general recommendation has been to use the extender with a T-type handlepost, I have been using it with my FNHON handlepost with a removable faceplate. It fits relatively well and feels stable. Riding this coming from a 700c bike feels like I was driving an SUV to hopping into a Mazda MX5 Miata. Not quite used to the twitchiness yet but now I get why people like to use a front luggage truss to stabilize that a bit.
V-brakes stop too well, to a point where I had close calls with launching myself over the bars... will need to either develop a better touch with the brake levers or maybe space the brake pads farther out. I was anticipating bumps in the road to be spine shattering but I think the Big Apples do their job very well. The other thing to get used is the funny looks people give me as I look huge compared to the bike. My next purchase will likely be quick release pedals of some kind to see if I can reduce some of the size to the bike. I'd also like a kickstand, but I'm not sure what to get.
Last edited by BCATC; 01-20-19 at 01:37 AM.
07-22-22, 10:35 AM
#74
Schwinnasaur
Has it been brought up that there appears to be a crack on the base of the post where the hinge pin installed?
07-23-22, 04:06 AM
#75
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This is what an original FnHon handle post on FSIR bikes looks like. Note the embossed FnHon logo on the bottom right.
Four years of service and still taut with zero play and rust free despite the permanently humid local climate
Four years of service and still taut with zero play and rust free despite the permanently humid local climate
Last edited by Ron Damon; 07-23-22 at 09:13 PM.
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