Galvanized v Stainless cables
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Galvanized v Stainless cables
Just curious, when did galvanized cables fall out of favor? I’m doing a restoration on a mid-60’s Italian bike and can only salvage one original derailleur and one brake. I’m not having luck locating galvanized cables.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 923
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 369 Post(s)
Liked 526 Times
in
278 Posts
Galvanized cables were never IN fashion. They were all that there was. With stainless around and available for only pennies more why would you even consider using anything else?
I mean, WTF?
OK. .. I know WTF. I just don't understand where that level of (deleted) comes from
I mean, WTF?
OK. .. I know WTF. I just don't understand where that level of (deleted) comes from
Last edited by Steel Charlie; 03-17-22 at 09:41 AM.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1607 Post(s)
Liked 2,213 Times
in
1,103 Posts
Do you have or are you going with galvanized spokes?
Jagwire Basics Brake Cable (Galvanized) (Double-Ended) (Road & Mountain) (1.6mm) (2000mm) - Performance Bicycle (performancebike.com)
Jagwire Basics Brake Cable (Galvanized) (Double-Ended) (Road & Mountain) (1.6mm) (2000mm) - Performance Bicycle (performancebike.com)
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,643
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1604 Post(s)
Liked 2,569 Times
in
1,217 Posts
Was looking for Huret compatible cables in stainless, nothin'.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: The Urban Shores Of Michigami
Posts: 1,748
Bikes: ........................................ .....Holdsworth "Special"..... .......Falcon "Special".......... .........Miyata 912........... ........................................
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 702 Post(s)
Liked 671 Times
in
419 Posts
I replace galvanized cables and spokes on my vintage restorations with stainless steel. The only exception so far has been derailleur cables for 1970's Simplex plastic lever shifters, the hole that accepts the cable end is extremely small so the only cables I have found to fit are the old galvanized type.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,421
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 971 Post(s)
Liked 624 Times
in
399 Posts
Ouch. Probably reduced to finding NOS at the LBS; I got the last one at my local shop. Filing down a Campimano-style cable end to fit might work, but would you trust it?
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Medford MA
Posts: 2,089
Bikes: Ron Cooper touring, 1959 Jack Taylor 650b ladyback touring tandem, Vitus 979, Joe Bell painted Claud Butler Dalesman, Colin Laing curved tube tandem, heavily-Dilberted 1982 Trek 6xx, René Herse tandem
Mentioned: 80 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 964 Post(s)
Liked 1,451 Times
in
723 Posts
It's funny, isn't it? There are folks who swear stainless screws are weaker than chromoly or other alloy steel, but you never hear about any such comparable thing for spokes or cables.
Makes me wonder if the alloy, the wire-drawing process, or both, make these concerns inapplicable for these applications. Like, is it some sort of Inconel type thing that they're made of or what? The cables do appear heat-treated at the very least. If you braze on them and get them red hot, they lose a lot of their springiness. That's why I use plain galvanized cables for custom ends and the like. I can use a soldering iron and get the solder to stick, which doesn't really happen with a stainless cable and any flux I've tried, until a much higher temperature.
Makes me wonder if the alloy, the wire-drawing process, or both, make these concerns inapplicable for these applications. Like, is it some sort of Inconel type thing that they're made of or what? The cables do appear heat-treated at the very least. If you braze on them and get them red hot, they lose a lot of their springiness. That's why I use plain galvanized cables for custom ends and the like. I can use a soldering iron and get the solder to stick, which doesn't really happen with a stainless cable and any flux I've tried, until a much higher temperature.
__________________
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Last edited by scarlson; 03-17-22 at 11:12 AM.
#8
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 170
Bikes: Fuji Touring Series V 1985, Motobecane Grand Touring 1982, Specialized Stumpjumper 1993, Raleigh International 1972, Raleigh Grand Prix 1972, Kuwahara Count 1983, Trek Cirrus 1987, Shogun 2001 1983, Cannondale SM700 1990
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 90 Post(s)
Liked 174 Times
in
96 Posts
I setup a Raleigh Record with Huret shifters and it was simple, hit the shimano type end once or twice with a hammer then file it to fit. Don't overwork the end they are soft, one hit should flatten it.
Likes For ZudeJammer:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,464
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 954 Post(s)
Liked 1,619 Times
in
1,039 Posts
Wow... You must be doing a real honest-a-goodness "RESTORATION".
As to the OP I think it must have been prior to the mid 70's. Unless you were looking at cheap department store bikes of less than 100 USD. I do remember one of the selling points of the $55.00 USD Western Auto "Western Flyer 10 Speed" was Stainless Steel Cables in 1968.
As to the OP I think it must have been prior to the mid 70's. Unless you were looking at cheap department store bikes of less than 100 USD. I do remember one of the selling points of the $55.00 USD Western Auto "Western Flyer 10 Speed" was Stainless Steel Cables in 1968.
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
#10
Shifting is fun!
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Holland, NL
Posts: 10,997
Bikes: Yes, please.
Mentioned: 279 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2192 Post(s)
Liked 4,580 Times
in
1,762 Posts
Galvanized shifter and brake cables are still available. These are from Jagwire:
Shifter Cable Hyper galvanized Slick Shimano/SRAM 1.1x2300
FWIW, I have been given to understand that these actually perform better (i.e. more smoothly) with vintage non-lined housing, so I would consider them for such an application.
Shifter Cable Hyper galvanized Slick Shimano/SRAM 1.1x2300
FWIW, I have been given to understand that these actually perform better (i.e. more smoothly) with vintage non-lined housing, so I would consider them for such an application.
Likes For non-fixie:
#12
Banned.
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 1,070
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 359 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times
in
336 Posts
I'm still in semi-mourning over the dearth of teflon-coated cables. They were so "neat."
The only galvanized cables I've been exposed to are the bulk ones that you may get if you simply tell the shop "I need a cable." They seemed rough to the touch, but it could have been the psychological effect of not seeing shiny smooth cables. I don't know. I like shiny cables, and I like teflon-coated over those. REI used to have them and stopped carrying them a while ago.
All that said, I'm not sure I ever had a failure, or a problem due to cable failure or sticking. I've never had the opportunity to ride a bike with cables so crappy they didn't work. I do remember friends with Sting-Rays that were left outside for months on end, and their cables were always fouled up.
The only galvanized cables I've been exposed to are the bulk ones that you may get if you simply tell the shop "I need a cable." They seemed rough to the touch, but it could have been the psychological effect of not seeing shiny smooth cables. I don't know. I like shiny cables, and I like teflon-coated over those. REI used to have them and stopped carrying them a while ago.
All that said, I'm not sure I ever had a failure, or a problem due to cable failure or sticking. I've never had the opportunity to ride a bike with cables so crappy they didn't work. I do remember friends with Sting-Rays that were left outside for months on end, and their cables were always fouled up.
Last edited by bamboobike4; 03-17-22 at 12:40 PM.
#13
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,493
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2740 Post(s)
Liked 3,386 Times
in
2,049 Posts
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
It’s as accurate and conservative restoration. Won’t get ridden much, its really a wall hanger. Thx for the tips. There’s a couple threads on it, search the Forum for “The Thrift Store Italian”.
Likes For ejw:
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,827 Times
in
1,995 Posts
#16
Me duelen las nalgas
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,513
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4559 Post(s)
Liked 2,802 Times
in
1,800 Posts
IIRC, Shimano's entry level cable/housing kits (supplied with RevoShift twisty-grip shifters and SunRace SLM10 friction shifters) use galvanized cables with sealed and greased cable housings. They're cheap and remarkably durable.
The pre-greased cable housings, with rubbery O-ring type seals, keep the cables in decent shape for years. The parts of the cables exposed to air will get fuzzy and gritty feeling after a year or two, but where the cables actually contact the housings they stay reasonably slick pretty much forever. The tricky bit is where the exposed galvanized cable rubs against unlubricated surfaces -- cable guides under the bottom bracket, on the chainstays, etc. To minimize friction and wear I use plastic shafts from cotton swabs, which serve the same purpose as cable liner.
I've paid about $10 for an entire set of RevoShift twisties and SunRace SLM10 thumbies, including cables/housings, but that was back around 2015-2017, waaay pre-pandemic and shipping crisis prices. Nowadays I'd expect to pay around $20 for the same thing, still not too bad.
If you prefer more period correct housings, you can just use the cables and save the cheap, skinny black housings for another project. While those cheap Shimano housings look cheap, they're functional. I can't feel any difference in braking or shifting between those entry level housings and the mid-grade Shimano and Jagwire housings I've used on other bikes.
The pre-greased cable housings, with rubbery O-ring type seals, keep the cables in decent shape for years. The parts of the cables exposed to air will get fuzzy and gritty feeling after a year or two, but where the cables actually contact the housings they stay reasonably slick pretty much forever. The tricky bit is where the exposed galvanized cable rubs against unlubricated surfaces -- cable guides under the bottom bracket, on the chainstays, etc. To minimize friction and wear I use plastic shafts from cotton swabs, which serve the same purpose as cable liner.
I've paid about $10 for an entire set of RevoShift twisties and SunRace SLM10 thumbies, including cables/housings, but that was back around 2015-2017, waaay pre-pandemic and shipping crisis prices. Nowadays I'd expect to pay around $20 for the same thing, still not too bad.
If you prefer more period correct housings, you can just use the cables and save the cheap, skinny black housings for another project. While those cheap Shimano housings look cheap, they're functional. I can't feel any difference in braking or shifting between those entry level housings and the mid-grade Shimano and Jagwire housings I've used on other bikes.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,107
Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 809 Post(s)
Liked 1,018 Times
in
664 Posts
I don't find anything particularly wrong with galvanized cables or spokes. I used to build wheels with only Robergel double butted galvanized spokes. At the time, late '70's, stainless spokes were seen as not as durable. But there are downsides to galvanized steel, It will rust given enough incentive and the surface turns a dull grey.
With shifter cables, they should be greased when running through standard steel housing like was the being used when @ejw bike was made. Between the grease and the galvanizing these cables always worked well. But we are talking about quality cable and the bike at least put in a garage or shed when not used.
For an upgrade, I think this option from Jagwire is a good one with the strength of steel and the slick outer surface. If you don't mind greasing the cable, it would be an improvement over the plain galvanized cable that was available at the time that many of our bikes were built.
Jagwire Slick galvanized shift cable
I have switched to stainless spokes, double butted still. I think of that as an esthetic decision. And it is tough to find Robergel double butted spokes nowadays.
Often, more expensive means it must be better, however, with cable, I don't know if galvanized cable, like from Jagwire above is inferior, it may even be better than stainless. Some of my homework indicates that it is. And no one will be impressed by you shiny cable like they will with your shiny spokes.
With shifter cables, they should be greased when running through standard steel housing like was the being used when @ejw bike was made. Between the grease and the galvanizing these cables always worked well. But we are talking about quality cable and the bike at least put in a garage or shed when not used.
For an upgrade, I think this option from Jagwire is a good one with the strength of steel and the slick outer surface. If you don't mind greasing the cable, it would be an improvement over the plain galvanized cable that was available at the time that many of our bikes were built.
Jagwire Slick galvanized shift cable
I have switched to stainless spokes, double butted still. I think of that as an esthetic decision. And it is tough to find Robergel double butted spokes nowadays.
Often, more expensive means it must be better, however, with cable, I don't know if galvanized cable, like from Jagwire above is inferior, it may even be better than stainless. Some of my homework indicates that it is. And no one will be impressed by you shiny cable like they will with your shiny spokes.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18349 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times
in
3,346 Posts
If you want cheap galvanized cables, and unlined housing, go to your local department store, and look for the cable/housing sets. $5, and they usually have several different cable end types.
A lot of winch cables and logging cables are either plain steel or galvanized. The price difference becomes significant when one buys larger sizes of cable.
I'll have to look more at bolts. I've only seen graded bolts (3, 5, & 8, or the equivalent in Metric) in coated steel.,
It may well be that stainless compares favorably with the flex characteristics of cable and spokes.
Stainless alloys have been used in knives and kitchen cutlery for quite some time. So the technology should be there for also making hardened fasteners.
It's funny, isn't it? There are folks who swear stainless screws are weaker than chromoly or other alloy steel, but you never hear about any such comparable thing for spokes or cables.
Makes me wonder if the alloy, the wire-drawing process, or both, make these concerns inapplicable for these applications. Like, is it some sort of Inconel type thing that they're made of or what? The cables do appear heat-treated at the very least. If you braze on them and get them red hot, they lose a lot of their springiness. That's why I use plain galvanized cables for custom ends and the like. I can use a soldering iron and get the solder to stick, which doesn't really happen with a stainless cable and any flux I've tried, until a much higher temperature.
Makes me wonder if the alloy, the wire-drawing process, or both, make these concerns inapplicable for these applications. Like, is it some sort of Inconel type thing that they're made of or what? The cables do appear heat-treated at the very least. If you braze on them and get them red hot, they lose a lot of their springiness. That's why I use plain galvanized cables for custom ends and the like. I can use a soldering iron and get the solder to stick, which doesn't really happen with a stainless cable and any flux I've tried, until a much higher temperature.
I'll have to look more at bolts. I've only seen graded bolts (3, 5, & 8, or the equivalent in Metric) in coated steel.,
It may well be that stainless compares favorably with the flex characteristics of cable and spokes.
Stainless alloys have been used in knives and kitchen cutlery for quite some time. So the technology should be there for also making hardened fasteners.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Medford MA
Posts: 2,089
Bikes: Ron Cooper touring, 1959 Jack Taylor 650b ladyback touring tandem, Vitus 979, Joe Bell painted Claud Butler Dalesman, Colin Laing curved tube tandem, heavily-Dilberted 1982 Trek 6xx, René Herse tandem
Mentioned: 80 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 964 Post(s)
Liked 1,451 Times
in
723 Posts
The metallurgical reason is that in order to have enough chromium to make the steel stainless, you have to get the carbon below some level, or the chromium won't go in. And it's not possible to harden the steel very much with these low levels of carbon.
__________________
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Likes For scarlson:
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,143
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3803 Post(s)
Liked 6,634 Times
in
2,599 Posts
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,385
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1557 Post(s)
Liked 1,732 Times
in
972 Posts
With stainless around and available for only pennies more why would you even consider using anything else?
There are several reasons why stainless wears more than galvanized steel when used on flight controls:
The bending of a wire rope causes the individual wire stands to not only bend but to rub against one another. Galvanizing is a natural lubricant. For example, galvanized threads have a lower friction (K) factor then plain steel. The individual wires can easily move about with very little friction and wear. Stainless steel on the other hand has high friction and has a reputation for seizing and galling when rubbed together. Every time the wire rope is flexed, the stainless wires rub together. High friction creates high wear.
The bending of a wire rope causes the individual wire stands to not only bend but to rub against one another. Galvanizing is a natural lubricant. For example, galvanized threads have a lower friction (K) factor then plain steel. The individual wires can easily move about with very little friction and wear. Stainless steel on the other hand has high friction and has a reputation for seizing and galling when rubbed together. Every time the wire rope is flexed, the stainless wires rub together. High friction creates high wear.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18349 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times
in
3,346 Posts
Oh man, I have opinions on this! I have both stainless and ordinary carbon steel knives, and much prefer the carbon steel, both for their ability to hold an edge and for their ease of sharpening. The stainless is not near as hard. This is easily verified with a set of hardness testing files. Even a cheap carbon steel knife is better in my experience.
The metallurgical reason is that in order to have enough chromium to make the steel stainless, you have to get the carbon below some level, or the chromium won't go in. And it's not possible to harden the steel very much with these low levels of carbon.
The metallurgical reason is that in order to have enough chromium to make the steel stainless, you have to get the carbon below some level, or the chromium won't go in. And it's not possible to harden the steel very much with these low levels of carbon.
I'll have to do a little more hunting for data.
This seems to indicate that most stainless cables are 304 or 316 stainless with less than 0.1% Carbon
This page gives a comparison of breaking strength of stainless vs galvanized cables, and they are similar. "Bright" steel cables are slightly better. There are several grades of non-stainless cables, IPS, EIPS, EEIPS, and GIPS (Galvanized). I am having troubles finding carbon content data, but it doesn't seem to be too high.
As far as stainless steels there is a class of Martensitic stainless steels that are heat treatable, with 440c being about 1% carbon, and it should be pretty tough for a knife.
This page lists a number of knife making steels with AUS-10 also a high quality reasonably corrosion resistant steel from Japan
But, alas, for some reason the bolts and cables like to use the 304 and 316 grade stainless steels. But, they should be plenty strong and plenty wear resistant for bicycles.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Point Reyes Station, California
Posts: 4,525
Bikes: Indeed!
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1506 Post(s)
Liked 3,460 Times
in
1,129 Posts
Some of us enjoy the challenge of restoring a bike to as near period-correct as we can; also the education that comes with the process. I've gotten a bit of an education just following this thread about a restoration: Squashing cable ends with hammers and the lubricant qualities of galvanization are both new to me. I commend the OP's dedication to that beautiful bike.
There are many different ways to enjoy this old bike hobby.
Brent
There are many different ways to enjoy this old bike hobby.
Brent
Likes For obrentharris:
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,890
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4788 Post(s)
Liked 3,914 Times
in
2,545 Posts
It's funny, isn't it? There are folks who swear stainless screws are weaker than chromoly or other alloy steel, but you never hear about any such comparable thing for spokes or cables.
Makes me wonder if the alloy, the wire-drawing process, or both, make these concerns inapplicable for these applications. Like, is it some sort of Inconel type thing that they're made of or what? The cables do appear heat-treated at the very least. If you braze on them and get them red hot, they lose a lot of their springiness. That's why I use plain galvanized cables for custom ends and the like. I can use a soldering iron and get the solder to stick, which doesn't really happen with a stainless cable and any flux I've tried, until a much higher temperature.
Makes me wonder if the alloy, the wire-drawing process, or both, make these concerns inapplicable for these applications. Like, is it some sort of Inconel type thing that they're made of or what? The cables do appear heat-treated at the very least. If you braze on them and get them red hot, they lose a lot of their springiness. That's why I use plain galvanized cables for custom ends and the like. I can use a soldering iron and get the solder to stick, which doesn't really happen with a stainless cable and any flux I've tried, until a much higher temperature.
As for bike screws, etc. I think many of the standard came about based on lesser steels (all those M5 screws). I promise you the run of the mill bike boom bike wasn't using cro-mo fasteners. Decent SS does just fine as a replacement. Cro-mo is overkill.
Edit: Clifford mentioned martensitic stainless steels, then said the strength-wise lesser 316 and 304 SSs are far more common in wire. Yes, Again,the marine world. Martensitic does poorly in contact with the other common marine metals as it is at the other end of the galvanic spectrum. Also 316 and 304 tolerate being bent beyond yield and used in that condition. (Think wire strands being wound to wire and that wire then being bent into an "eye". And if your ship rigging gets bent to a kink in a storm, you'd rather not have if fail like a high strength, low ductility high end cro-moly.
Last edited by 79pmooney; 03-17-22 at 10:25 PM.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,321
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 767 Post(s)
Liked 1,898 Times
in
889 Posts
PorkchopBMX also has some galvanized brake cables. They are out there.
Blind test with proper setup by a competent mechanic on identical friction/non-aero systems - most riders can't tell the difference between a stainless or galvanized cable.
Blind test with proper setup by a competent mechanic on identical friction/non-aero systems - most riders can't tell the difference between a stainless or galvanized cable.