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Popping Tires Constantly

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Popping Tires Constantly

Old 12-18-21, 04:17 PM
  #26  
Cyclist0108
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Get the widest tires you can fit in your frame and fork, and inflate them to half-way between the min and max of the tire range. Tires that deform when they hit an object are much less likely to puncture. (Think of how much easier it is to pop a fully-inflated ballon with a pin.) Wide tires enable you to run lower pressures without pinch-flatting. It is also far easier to get the tire and tube set up without pinching the tube (which also might be a source of weakness that eventually results in a leak).

I ride 38mm tires on my road bike, and weigh about 50 lbs less than you do.
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Old 12-18-21, 04:18 PM
  #27  
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Replacing a tube:
make sure you push the valve stem in as far as it goes once the tire is mounted. This makes sure the part of the tube near the valve isn't trapped under the tire bead. Then you can pull it back out far enough to be able to push on the tire pump head. use the threaded nut that travels down the outside of the stem to hold it. Don't make that too tight, though.


Tire pressure
Try 105-110 psi for your weight of 245 pounds.
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Old 12-19-21, 05:00 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Eplumer40
Tires are new Continental Ultra Sport III 700x25 I’m quite a bit of a Clydesdale at 5’10” 245lbs, but I’m working on that.
If they will fit in your frame, significantly larger tires would be desirable. Try to get at least 28 mm and preferably 32 mm or even bigger.
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Old 12-19-21, 05:57 PM
  #29  
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Just to reiterate widest tires that will work with your frame, check the rim for any damage or poking spokes, get a new rim strip (ideally cloth like Newbaum's or Fond de Jante) and get a proper pressure gauge ideally get a pump that is easy to use and pump with some regularity.

I am also a Clyde and pretty much all of my bikes are crammed with the widest tires. I have one bike that is stuck with 25c tires and I don't ride the bike that often because of that (but won't get rid of it because of what it is). Beyond that everything else is 28 and ideally way more. Skinny tire bikes need to go away (which they are for the most part)
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Old 12-19-21, 07:11 PM
  #30  
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Thank you again everyone, I really appreciate all the insight. For people confused as to what wheels and tire should be on my bike, I took the wheels, groupset, drop handlebars, wheels, and pedals off of a Tomasso AS1 and put them on this Diamondback. I had gotten the Diamondback for $50 and while it was nice to ride, I wanted a better quality groupset and drop bars for a legit road bike, and the Tomasso filled that void. Bought that for $300, replaced the Shimano Altus and Tourney groupset on the DB for the 105 and Ultegra that came with the Tomasso, and resold the Tomasso for $150. I didn’t really want to go to this skinny of wheels but the wheels on the DB had a 7 speed cassette that I didn’t want to keep.

For what types of flats I’ve been getting, it really depends. I’ve had times where it’s been small holes that happened when I had old tires on it (Kenda Koncepts with the cord showing), some have been the snakebites that have just occurred randomly and some from hitting potholes. Hadn’t had the time to look into the flat I got on the trainer until today and it looks like it actually came from my rim tape that had hardened and cracked, which tore the tube in like 6 different places after comparing the holes to where they were on the rim. I have new tape on the way, LBS didn’t have any narrow enough.

I truly think the main issue I’ve been having are mounting issues with the tires and not inflating them enough. Like mentioned before, I only have a roadside hand pump that doesn’t have a pressure gauge so I have no idea how inflated the tires are save for the tire squeeze test. I can’t thank you all enough for the help. I really appreciate it.
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