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Old 06-05-15, 12:02 PM
  #2401  
Stas87
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Originally Posted by queerpunk
it sounds like the sweetspot for track PMs are 110bcd quarqs with a 110->144 Bergstrom Technologies adaptor. that winds up being a lot cheaper than an SRM. i know one person who has a Rival Stages arm on Omnium cranks, but there's a 7.5mm differential q-factor.
I'm going to research this a bit further, I don't see much on Bergstrom. Very interesting though
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Old 06-05-15, 12:45 PM
  #2402  
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Originally Posted by Stas87
I'm going to research this a bit further, I don't see much on Bergstrom. Very interesting though
Yeah, he's basically a machinist dude who used to race track, realized this would be helpful, and started making them in spare time, small batches.

Apparently the Canadian National Team placed a big order for a bunch of them at some point.
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Old 06-05-15, 01:04 PM
  #2403  
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I bought a Bdop this year:



As you can see it doesn't correct the chainline. It places the chainwheel pretty much in the middle. Seems to be nicely made. Arrived in 2 days, that's faster than stuff from California.

Other options for powermeters for the track afaik:
Powertap 1145$ cogs are White Industries, thus no 13t
the very first generation Powertap, cheap, but no more spare parts available and its DIY

Power2max from 1079$
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Old 06-05-15, 01:26 PM
  #2404  
Hida Yanra
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Originally Posted by Banchad
I can't even find a price for the Bergstrom Adaptor.

Edit: Nevermind. Found this. https://www.facebook.com/BergstromTe...14267348670929
Thats a lot of moolah for a bit of machined aluminium.
the same could be said for most bike parts (carbon/alum/et al).


Originally Posted by queerpunk
it sounds like the sweetspot for track PMs are 110bcd quarqs with a 110->144 Bergstrom Technologies adaptor. that winds up being a lot cheaper than an SRM. i know one person who has a Rival Stages arm on Omnium cranks, but there's a 7.5mm differential q-factor.
I can guarantee that the better sweet spot is a wired SRM in 130bcd (going for around 450 on an internet auction site near you), and then either Gephart or TA Alize rings.
Faster sample time, chain line works real well, rock solid software, lower price.

I used this setup for almost two whole seasons, had no problems at all.

come to think of it, I should just get over it and list my PM/rings for sale now that I'm nowhere near a track :/
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Old 06-05-15, 05:07 PM
  #2405  
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Originally Posted by Tman1965
I bought a Bdop this year:



As you can see it doesn't correct the chainline. It places the chainwheel pretty much in the middle. Seems to be nicely made. Arrived in 2 days, that's faster than stuff from California.

Other options for powermeters for the track afaik:
Powertap 1145$ cogs are White Industries, thus no 13t
the very first generation Powertap, cheap, but no more spare parts available and its DIY

Power2max from 1079$
Thank you for posting that! So you ended up not being able to use it because the chainline was off? How far off was it and do you think there would be any way to fix it, or is just getting the $250 adapter the only solution?
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Old 06-05-15, 10:23 PM
  #2406  
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Originally Posted by aramis
Thank you for posting that! So you ended up not being able to use it because the chainline was off? How far off was it and do you think there would be any way to fix it, or is just getting the $250 adapter the only solution?
I bought it for a different purpose (using very short cranks). It works fine for that. Chainline is okay, but I'm not that super picky in this regard (+-2mm is fine for me).
I just wanted to show how it works. Essentially it replaces one chainring of a compact crankset (preferably the inner one for the ease of mounting) and you mount the track chainring flat on it.
But since you already have the quarq you can measure the chainline and check whether it will work for you.
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Old 06-06-15, 06:22 PM
  #2407  
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Does anyone use fixed(or even geared) time trialling on the road as training? Tried my first 10 mile TT last week and despite the pain really enjoyed it. I'm starting to get bored with my regular training routine and want to see if I can incorporate this.
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Old 06-06-15, 06:46 PM
  #2408  
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When I was younger I used to take part in a weekly 15k TT series. I believe it was good training.
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Old 06-06-15, 08:50 PM
  #2409  
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Im building up some new training wheels on a set of 32h Mavic GP4 Rims. Not looking for the cheapest option out there, but something that is very strong and dependable - mostly sprint work outs. If it costs a few $$, I won't rule it out since I expect them to last a while.
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Old 06-06-15, 09:17 PM
  #2410  
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Originally Posted by Tman1965
I bought it for a different purpose (using very short cranks). It works fine for that. Chainline is okay, but I'm not that super picky in this regard (+-2mm is fine for me).
I just wanted to show how it works. Essentially it replaces one chainring of a compact crankset (preferably the inner one for the ease of mounting) and you mount the track chainring flat on it.
But since you already have the quarq you can measure the chainline and check whether it will work for you.
Thanks. Sounds like it should work out then.

Hmm I think I might just give it a shot. Fun for the 80 bucks just to see power numbers a few times.

Honestly I'm more curious how much power I'm putting down if I win a sprint in a scratch race for example. How much you are actually putting in for the rest of the race. to match attacks.. things like that. And for how long I'm sprinting at that power/etc so I can train on the road/trainer to improve those power numbers since I never train on the track.
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Old 06-08-15, 03:18 AM
  #2411  
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Is one also advised to protect carbon/carbon contact points (handlebar & downtube)?
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Old 06-08-15, 05:39 PM
  #2412  
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Originally Posted by rndstr
Is one also advised to protect carbon/carbon contact points (handlebar & downtube)?
Yes. Repeated impacts will cause delamination over time, usually in the frame as the diameter of the top or downtube is larger, creating a more targeted stress point from the smaller diameter (and more resistant/stiffer) handlebar.
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Old 06-08-15, 08:29 PM
  #2413  
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Cinelli pista vs nitto track drops...any advantage to either? I run a 42cm fsa road drop but I'm a small, flexible guy at 130 lbs and 5'10". I would get the pistas in 40cm but maybe I'm better off with small nittos (36cm)? appreciate any input!
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Old 06-08-15, 09:15 PM
  #2414  
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Which Nitto's? There are a few models that have differing drop and reach numbers? My preference is steel Nitto over anything else. Fit should be the most important determiner of choice here.
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Old 06-09-15, 08:17 AM
  #2415  
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I would need to fit a 31.8 clamp. I think there is only one style.
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Old 06-09-15, 08:50 AM
  #2416  
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You can shim the bars, which opens up your options.
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Old 06-09-15, 11:15 AM
  #2417  
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gotcha. about how narrow should I go? I'm using the setup for both sprint and endurance events
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Old 06-09-15, 12:09 PM
  #2418  
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Originally Posted by SBUndefeated201
gotcha. about how narrow should I go? I'm using the setup for both sprint and endurance events
My favorite bars for both sprint and endurance are the Nitto b125 in alloy and 36cm. https://www.benscycle.com/p-1261-nit...handlebar.aspx About $30 cheaper in steel. When I first started track, I was hesitant to go narrow... now I wouldn't dream of anything wider than these, and I'll probably go 38cm for my next ROAD bars.
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Old 06-09-15, 12:21 PM
  #2419  
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I was riding 38s before but the bike I bought had 42 and I never switched. maybe I'll give those a shot
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Old 06-09-15, 12:53 PM
  #2420  
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Another vote for Nitto 125's in 36. Love em.
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Old 06-09-15, 01:33 PM
  #2421  
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I personally have never gone narrower than 38, but i'm riding equipment that's about 5-10 years old. I also have a large ribcage (6.1 L), so I don't know if going narrower for me is an option without some radical position changes.
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Old 06-09-15, 04:20 PM
  #2422  
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One note: The narrow bars *will* feel weird the first few sessions. Understand and expect this. Don't use this as an excuse to not use them. You'll get comfortable with them after maybe 2 or 3 sessions (training and/or racing). That's when the real evaluation will happen.

I've made the mistake of saying, "This feels weird, so it's not good." and going back to wider bars. It took several periods of going back and forth (also selling and re-buying the same bars over and over) for me to settle on narrow bars.

Now, 37cm are my "wide" bars and I own a set of 34cm Nitto. I wish that I had kept my Alpina 33cm (I bought and sold them TWICE!...like an idiot). I bought 37cm Scattos twice. At least the first set I bought were used in the Paralympics to earn a medal (Jenn Schuble used them).
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Old 06-09-15, 08:54 PM
  #2423  
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3T SPHINX LTD bars: "This bar allows riders to hook their wrists inside the bend, palms facing outwards."

How does a rider accomplish this? Photo anyone?
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Old 06-09-15, 09:29 PM
  #2424  
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Originally Posted by 700wheel
3T SPHINX LTD bars: "This bar allows riders to hook their wrists inside the bend, palms facing outwards."

How does a rider accomplish this? Photo anyone?
the sphinx position was mostly pioneered by Joan Llaneras. He won a bunch of big races. Like the Olympic Points Race, a few times. Kind of a big deal.



Then 3TTT made special bars for Cameron Meyer, he started destroying everybody, and eventually there was a rule about bike setup that made it hard to use Sphinx bars.

But the position caught on and a lot of points and madison riders set up bars in some way to use this position. Here I am sphinxing.

This is done solo or on the front only.

tl;dr version:
hoods for track bikes.
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Old 06-10-15, 12:34 AM
  #2425  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk
tl;dr version:
hoods for track bikes.
Best explanation ever!
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