Mech or hydraulic under $150?
07-26-21, 12:49 PM
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Mech or hydraulic under $150?
Hi, Which would you recommend, a TRP mechanical or a $150 hydraulic brake system? This is going on a 24" BMX cruiser that came with rear mech. disk brake. I am trying to get a firmer feel on the lever. Thanks for the help.
07-26-21, 01:23 PM
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I'd get a single rear Shimano XT hydro for $170. But even the Deore level brake is pretty darn great. I've got those on a 27.5 bmx cruiser and keep looking for reasons to upgrade, but can't find any.
07-27-21, 05:04 PM
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Are you using compressionless housing? If not, that alone will noticeably firm up the lever.
07-27-21, 05:52 PM
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Hydro all day every day. As Rolla posted they don't have to be expensive. The least expensive Shimano hydraulic brakes work really really well.
07-27-21, 08:54 PM
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Check out randombikeparts, they've got some single sets in the 50-75 range if you only need a rear. They'll probably require cutting down the hose for best fit but most of the brakes you'll find will have that issue. As others have said, even the more basic versions are an improvement over cable.
07-27-21, 09:35 PM
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I like hydraulic brakes a lot, but mechanical vs hydraulic is just a different kind of transmission, power is still all about leverage, and they have about the same amount.
Try to really dial in the gap. Hydraulic brakes are self-adjusting, mechanical calipers you can dial out the slop by screwing in the adjusters by either pad until it's just barely not rubbing, and take up cable slack with the barrel adjuster. If you use up all of that slack then you can undo the pinch bolt and pull some more cable through. If it still has a big gap when it's nearly rubbing you can probably see that the rotor is warped and you can replace it or try to bend it back.
You could also look up pads for your caliper and whichever material you have, try the other one (sintered metal vs organic/resin/semi-metallic)
Try to really dial in the gap. Hydraulic brakes are self-adjusting, mechanical calipers you can dial out the slop by screwing in the adjusters by either pad until it's just barely not rubbing, and take up cable slack with the barrel adjuster. If you use up all of that slack then you can undo the pinch bolt and pull some more cable through. If it still has a big gap when it's nearly rubbing you can probably see that the rotor is warped and you can replace it or try to bend it back.
You could also look up pads for your caliper and whichever material you have, try the other one (sintered metal vs organic/resin/semi-metallic)
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Last edited by Darth Lefty; 07-27-21 at 09:40 PM.
07-28-21, 01:46 PM
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My last set was OEM scratch and dent Tektros from Taiwan via eBay
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07-28-21, 02:05 PM
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Shimano hydraulic FTW
I have SLX hydros on my suspension bike and (I think) Alivio or Deore hydros on my fat bike. They are both very very good stoppers, head and shoulders above the Avid BB5 mechanicals I used to have. I am sure there have been advancements in mechanical disc brakes since I had mine, but hydros are still king.
I have SLX hydros on my suspension bike and (I think) Alivio or Deore hydros on my fat bike. They are both very very good stoppers, head and shoulders above the Avid BB5 mechanicals I used to have. I am sure there have been advancements in mechanical disc brakes since I had mine, but hydros are still king.
07-30-21, 12:04 PM
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The only new things in mechanical disc brakes in years is that they disappeared from even half-decent mountain bikes and now pretty much only appear on less expensive road and gravel bikes in flat mount bodies. BB7's are still made, I think the BB5 got discontinued. The HYRD and Spyre/Spyke (dual piston mechanical) are the last real advance and that's from 2013.
And Paul Components made a really blingy one.
And Paul Components made a really blingy one.
Last edited by Darth Lefty; 07-30-21 at 12:15 PM.
