Front Tire won't fit through rim brakes
09-13-21, 08:38 AM
#26
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Actually to make wheel removal easier was one of the minor reasons I had to get a wider-rimmed wheelset. Obviously for example, if your rim width is the same as, or a just slightly narrower than your inflated tire width, then the brakes after being adjusted to fit the rim width once you've flipped the release lever, don't have an issue clearing the tire. In my case I went from 20mm rims to 24mm rims which made all the difference. That said, I know neither the max rim width the stock Tektros can accommodate, nor what the current rim width is of the OP's S-R3 rims.
I'm waiting until I've worn out my old rims to try it out, so it might be a while...
09-13-21, 08:51 AM
#27
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I've considered something like that for my 700C bikes: instead of 28mm tires on 20mm rims, perhaps 25mm tires on 23mm rims. I'm envisioning that the 25's would puff out close to 28mm on the wider rims, but it would resolve some of that gap in adjustment.
I'm waiting until I've worn out my old rims to try it out, so it might be a while...
I'm waiting until I've worn out my old rims to try it out, so it might be a while...
09-13-21, 09:04 AM
#28
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Not sure if you're referring to outside rim width or not, but latest generation of most tires (?) seem are now labelled with assumption of being installed on wider rims than in the past. Eg. a Conti GP5K inflates to a lesser width than the same size-labelled GP4K from yesteryear. I would expect most new 28mm tires, installed on a 23mm outside rim width wheel (ie. probably a 17-18mm inner width), should not really exceed 28mm.
The tires I like don't change that much from season to season, but that is a good point about how lots of models are being adjusted to account for wider rims. Hey, now they get to make them a little smaller and claim lighter weights, just like they did in the 80's.
09-13-21, 12:05 PM
#29
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And sometimes it knocks the pad clean out of the holder, which can be a PITA if it happens away from your home/shop. I'll take a few seconds to remove the pad to avoid this.
09-13-21, 02:00 PM
#30
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The daughter of friends years back bought an old road bike that had too tight clearances, and had to release air to get it in and out. Rather annoying. I recall the roadie brakes were cheapies and didn't even have the release thing.
09-13-21, 02:53 PM
#31
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I’ve had old road frames where you had to let air out of the tire to get the rear wheel out of the frame. That’s what I’d do in your situation too. I’d rather pump a tire than mess with a cable adjuster every time.
09-13-21, 03:29 PM
#32
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THIS!! Your brake has a QR just for this.
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09-13-21, 05:02 PM
#33
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as mentioned earlier, best thing to do first is to readjust the brake cable. It may be too tight when in open (wide) mode. Tire should slip through when open
09-14-21, 12:51 PM
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the brake release will buy you only so much extra clearance. If your tire is sufficiently wider than your rim, the brake release may not be enough. When I switched to 25mm tires on old Rolf rims, the tires hung up on the brakes even when the shifter-mounted (Campag) brake releases were opened up (releases were closed during normal use). This was a minor inconvenience at most - to drop out a wheel I let a little air out, and then topped up the tire again after the wheel was reinstalled. When transporting the bike (fork-mount roof carrier), the floor pump went into the trunk with the front wheel. When fixing a flat on the road, I waited until the wheel was back in the frame before I hit it with the CO2. Simply a case of adopting a slightly different order of events when removing/replacing a wheel. Switching to wider rims (and adjusting the brakes for the new rims) made the problem disappear.
Last edited by Litespud; 09-14-21 at 12:54 PM.
