Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 01-08-20, 09:41 AM
  #22076  
clubman 
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,829

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2287 Post(s)
Liked 2,028 Times in 1,244 Posts
Originally Posted by bluesteak
I am new to the forum. If I want to contact you about rims, how do I go about it?

I am including some better photos of the bike. Serial no. Y 67089. I am taking it to be 57 model year. I am thinking of it as a companion to my Raleigh Blue Streak.

Do you think it had ea1 rims and drops when new?
That's a good question. That was when Raleigh and others started moving their top tier bikes over to the 630 mm size. Maybe some searches through catalogues would help?
I'll pm you.
clubman is offline  
Old 01-08-20, 10:30 AM
  #22077  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,570

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 434 Times in 286 Posts
Originally Posted by bluesteak
I am new to the forum. If I want to contact you about rims, how do I go about it?

I am including some better photos of the bike. Serial no. Y 67089. I am taking it to be 57 model year. I am thinking of it as a companion to my Raleigh Blue Streak.

Do you think it had ea1 rims








and drops when new?
should you opt for EA1 rims, you'll need tires.
Limited options but Kenda K-023 tires fit/look good.
I'm in Canada, but I'm sure that these shipped from the US.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Last edited by gster; 01-08-20 at 02:27 PM.
gster is offline  
Old 01-08-20, 11:34 AM
  #22078  
PeterLYoung 
Senior Member
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by bluesteak
I am new to the forum. If I want to contact you about rims, how do I go about it?

I am including some better photos of the bike. Serial no. Y 67089. I am taking it to be 57 model year. I am thinking of it as a companion to my Raleigh Blue Streak.

Do you think it had ea1 rims

and drops when new?
Further to my earlier comments if it was 1957 date bike then it possibly could have been built for 27" (630) rims rather than the EA1 26" rims.
Probably be a good idea to check against another road bike frame bike frame to check fork lengths, checking my road bikes with 27" they measure 14.5" from hub centre to base of crown whereas my 26" bikes measure 14" so this may give you a clue to which wheel was originally fitted. Hope this helps
__________________
Cuius summa inventa

PeterLYoung is offline  
Old 01-08-20, 05:02 PM
  #22079  
bluesteak 
Full Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 214
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 116 Post(s)
Liked 87 Times in 49 Posts
Originally Posted by PeterLYoung
Further to my earlier comments if it was 1957 date bike then it possibly could have been built for 27" (630) rims rather than the EA1 26" rims.
Probably be a good idea to check against another road bike frame bike frame to check fork lengths, checking my road bikes with 27" they measure 14.5" from hub centre to base of crown whereas my 26" bikes measure 14" so this may give you a clue to which wheel was originally fitted. Hope this helps
pretty sure 630 won’t fit. I had some difficulty fitting a 622-28 in the back without deflating the tire. I already have a couple of 27” raleighs and the frame measurements are more generous by about 1/2 inch like you describe.

Last edited by bluesteak; 01-08-20 at 07:26 PM.
bluesteak is offline  
Likes For bluesteak:
Old 01-09-20, 01:57 PM
  #22080  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,570

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 434 Times in 286 Posts
Originally Posted by bluesteak
pretty sure 630 won’t fit. I had some difficulty fitting a 622-28 in the back without deflating the tire. I already have a couple of 27” raleighs and the frame measurements are more generous by about 1/2 inch like you describe.
No harm in putting on a set of standard 26" 3 speed wheels.
Looks like you might need a donor bike anyway.
You can usually find a ladies' bike for $20-$50.00 to harvest parts from.
gster is offline  
Old 01-09-20, 03:24 PM
  #22081  
FBOATSB
Senior Member
 
FBOATSB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 2,201

Bikes: Old Stuff

Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 912 Post(s)
Liked 514 Times in 343 Posts
Triumph

Anybody in Central Iowa bidding on this?
https://www.shopgoodwill.com/Item/83430814

FBOATSB is offline  
Old 01-09-20, 04:38 PM
  #22082  
arty dave
Full Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canberra Australia
Posts: 240

Bikes: 30's Speedwell Club Racer, 40's Speedwell 'Z' racer, 50's Unknown Aussie with nice lugs, 50's Speedwell Roadster, 50's Repco Roadster, '63 Raleigh DL-1, 70's Raleigh Sprite, Puch Promenade with Nexus 8

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Liked 30 Times in 23 Posts
I was wondering if anyone had done this before - this is what I want to make for my S5 build, a double pulley using a vintage top tube mounted shifter for the left bell crank:

(From Bulgie in the thread https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ey-archer.html)


Last edited by arty dave; 01-09-20 at 04:47 PM.
arty dave is offline  
Old 01-09-20, 04:40 PM
  #22083  
bluesteak 
Full Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 214
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 116 Post(s)
Liked 87 Times in 49 Posts
Originally Posted by gster
No harm in putting on a set of standard 26" 3 speed wheels.
Looks like you might need a donor bike anyway.
You can usually find a ladies' bike for $20-$50.00 to harvest parts from.
I have been looking for a donor bike, the dropouts are too wide for an SA hub so I am looking for a Raleigh sprite with a 40 hole hub and a 3/32 chain wheel.
bluesteak is offline  
Old 01-09-20, 05:08 PM
  #22084  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,570

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 434 Times in 286 Posts
Originally Posted by arty dave
I was wondering if anyone had done this before - this is what I want to make for my S5 build, a double pulley using a vintage top tube mounted shifter for the left bell crank:

(From Bulgie in the thread https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ey-archer.html)

Mine has one of these w/ enclosed cables
gster is offline  
Old 01-09-20, 05:35 PM
  #22085  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,570

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 434 Times in 286 Posts
Originally Posted by bluesteak
I have been looking for a donor bike, the dropouts are too wide for an SA hub so I am looking for a Raleigh sprite with a 40 hole hub and a 3/32 chain wheel.
gster is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 04:36 AM
  #22086  
BigChief 
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by gster
Mine has one of these w/ enclosed cables
Right now, my Sprite has a handlebar mounted Suntour Powershifter and housed cable running all the way to a cable stop on the seat stay to operate the bell crank. The right side is the usual trigger with top tube stop/ open cable/ guide wheel system. I know I prefer an open cable/ guide wheel to a fully housed cable to operate a trigger. It seems that an open cable would have less friction and lend a better feel to the bell crank shifter also. I just couldn't get along with the SA top tube stick shifters. Hated em. Also now I wish I routed the left side shifter along the down tube. The top tube looks cluttered with 3 cables.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 06:47 AM
  #22087  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,570

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 434 Times in 286 Posts
Here's an amazon review I wrote for some inner tubes I purchased...
https://www.amazon.ca/review/R3HZ9G8..._rv_eml_rv0_rv
gster is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 07:22 AM
  #22088  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,570

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 434 Times in 286 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
Right now, my Sprite has a handlebar mounted Suntour Powershifter and housed cable running all the way to a cable stop on the seat stay to operate the bell crank. The right side is the usual trigger with top tube stop/ open cable/ guide wheel system. I know I prefer an open cable/ guide wheel to a fully housed cable to operate a trigger. It seems that an open cable would have less friction and lend a better feel to the bell crank shifter also. I just couldn't get along with the SA top tube stick shifters. Hated em. Also now I wish I routed the left side shifter along the down tube. The top tube looks cluttered with 3 cables.
I like the look of the throttles, but from a practical point of view, I prefer the triggers mounted on the handle bars as well.
gster is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 08:38 AM
  #22089  
clubman 
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,829

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2287 Post(s)
Liked 2,028 Times in 1,244 Posts
Originally Posted by brianhamp
I have a question for the Sturmey Archer people.... Did Sturmey Archer stop or slow down production in 1962 ? I have been looking for a AW hub (or any SA hub) dated 1962 but cannot seem to find any... Was it maybe an "Off Year" for them?
That's a very good question because I have seen an abnormal amount of 1961 bikes
clubman is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 10:38 AM
  #22090  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,570

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 434 Times in 286 Posts
Originally Posted by brianhamp
Me too... and 1963's ... I am glad it's not just me...
I'm sure I've got a '62 on one of the bikes..
gster is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 10:48 AM
  #22091  
jamesj
Senior Member
 
jamesj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Arizona
Posts: 935

Bikes: 2015 Specialized AWOL, 2006 Paul Frank Cruiser, 1987 Specialized Street Stomper, 1980 Trek 412, 1979 Raleigh Sport,

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 99 Post(s)
Liked 60 Times in 25 Posts
In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.





jamesj is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 12:47 PM
  #22092  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,570

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 434 Times in 286 Posts
Originally Posted by brianhamp
I have a question for the Sturmey Archer people.... Did Sturmey Archer stop or slow down production in 1962 ? I have been looking for a AW hub (or any SA hub) dated 1962 but cannot seem to find any... Was it maybe an "Off Year" for them?
You might be onto something....
I've got two '61's and a '63.....
gster is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 12:52 PM
  #22093  
dweenk
Senior Member
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,980

Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups

Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 887 Post(s)
Liked 335 Times in 225 Posts
Originally Posted by jamesj
In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.





You should be able to bend that back into alignment. A vise, towel, and hammer should put it right.
dweenk is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 01:53 PM
  #22094  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,570

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 434 Times in 286 Posts
Originally Posted by gster
You might be onto something....
I've got two '61's and a '63.....
They do exist
gster is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 02:48 PM
  #22095  
bluesteak 
Full Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 214
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 116 Post(s)
Liked 87 Times in 49 Posts
Originally Posted by gster
Where did you get that image?

I assume it is a sales poster rather than a catalog. I still haven’t found my bike in any period materials.

Can you get handle bars like those?
bluesteak is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 03:10 PM
  #22096  
Salubrious
Senior Member
 
Salubrious's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,592

Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked 259 Times in 115 Posts
Originally Posted by jamesj
In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.





There is a tool that was built specifically to straighten bent steel crankarms. I have one that was made pre-war by Elgin. They are straightened fairly easily with that tool while on the bike.

For the cotter pin I would apply some Kroil (Penetrating-Lubricating Oils) to the pin and give it a day or so. Then I would try it again, only repositioning the press as best I could to apply the force so as to push the bend back in the other direction; IOW a little off to one side.
Salubrious is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 04:33 PM
  #22097  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,570

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 434 Times in 286 Posts
Originally Posted by bluesteak
Where did you get that image?

I assume it is a sales poster rather than a catalog. I still haven’t found my bike in any period materials.

Can you get handle bars like those?
I found that on the interweb.
I'm sure you can find some suitable drop bars
out there.
gster is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 04:36 PM
  #22098  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,570

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1028 Post(s)
Liked 434 Times in 286 Posts
Originally Posted by dweenk
You should be able to bend that back into alignment. A vise, towel, and hammer should put it right.
Big Chief had a good tutorial posted here
a while back.
Basically reefing on it (in place) with a pipe.
it works
gster is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 06:14 PM
  #22099  
BigChief 
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by jamesj
In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.





Bending these crank arms is easier than you would think. Seeing when it's straight is the most difficult part. I'm happy with it when I can't detect any pedal wobble when I ride. Holding a straight crank arm up against it makes it easier to guess when it's straight. You could chuck this arm in a bench vise and use a pipe for leverage. Folded cardboard or pieces of inner tube works well for protecting the finish as you work the arm. Go slowly and check a lot.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 01-10-20, 06:34 PM
  #22100  
BigChief 
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Oh, you also have a bent cotter. My plan B for this is essentially supporting the crank from underneath and smashing it out with a husky punch and hammer. I set the stand low with the wheels just off the cement floor. Then I drill a hole in the end of a 2x4 to clear the cotter as it comes out. I wedge the 2x4 between the crank arm and the hard floor. Now, there's a couple extra things I do to protect the finish and make the hammer force more efficient. I protect the chrome with electrical tape and saw off the bent end of the cotter. Then I center punch a dimple in the center of the fresh surface so the drill won't skid off. I start with small drills and work my way up until I have a good sized counter sink in the cotter. This will keep the punch from sliding off and damaging the arm. I have this husky punch with a pointed end. I think it's meant for setting finishing nails. That punch fits into the countersink. Then I take a big heavy hammer and hit hard. So far, this has always worked for me.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.